[saltbeef]

depends what you're used to. i train a fair bit, but reckon if i started to train 6days a week then i'd blow apart. i tend to train 2days on 1 off, 1 on 1 off, with the odd 2-3day break enforced by work/rain. if you have only just started using a fingerboard then i'd go with what paul says. maybe add it witha weight session once a week, but remember, what you're training for... climbing, so use the training as an addition rather than instead of climbing.

[richdraws]

Has anyone the foggiest idea what leg-end John Gaskins does training wise?

[Paul B]

Now then,
I would suggest 5 reps of 25-30 sec hangs using both hands with weight (if needed.)

Those hangs seem to be awfully long, everything I seem to remember reading (apart from 8a.nu) advocates more in the region of 8-12 secs, im sure one of the spanish training books had some research to back this up and some graphs to illustrate it.
I understand the use of both hands to aid in keeping front on but even minimal assistance from a pulley set up will do this as well?

[unclesomebody]

Surely V7 climbers just want to be climbing rather than training? I think undertaking a 6 day a week deadhang structure is somewhat intense. I do speak from experience... i moved to sheffield and looking back I think I was overtraining. I'm way stronger and better now but climbing less... recovery is key. An easy way to analyse if you need to be doing 6 days of deadhangs is to go to your local wall and watch other people who are climbing similar/slightly harder problems than you. Are those people doing 6 days of deadhangs? Or are they using their feet better? Using their body better? Holding holds slightly differently. I think V7 climbers are just beginning to move in to the world of doing slightly more difficult moves, but it's often not strength that is the limiting factor. It's possible you'd learn a whole heap and be inspired from undertaking something like a masterclass... all depends who you climb with. Personally, every time I go climbing with my peers it's like a masterclass. I learn so much.

[richdraws]

Awww I like training 

[unclesomebody]

More than climbing?!?  ???

[richdraws]

It's possible you'd learn a whole heap and be inspired from undertaking something like a masterclass... all depends who you climb with. Personally, every time I go climbing with my peers it's like a masterclass. I learn so much.

stand by for unscrupulous product endorsement...

I had a masterclass with Dave MacLeod and Niall McNair last October/November. It was amazing (I have had masterclasses by other top climbers that were not as good). The quality of instruction and level to which it was aimed (mid grades) was top notch. Seeing Dave climb was an eye opener, despite his one armer on a campus rung ability, he used momentum rather than strength on every move. However he did advocate training for the climbers present who were all in that mid grade range. It was the style of training on his site, progressive resistance / assistance reduction.

I know the masterclass idea is not always very popular with some climbers but the MacLeod/McNair one was proper wizard.   

[richdraws]

More than climbing?!?  ???

words, crowbar, mouth.

[monkey boy]

Surely V7 climbers just want to be climbing rather than training? I think undertaking a 6 day a week deadhang structure is somewhat intense. . It's possible you'd learn a whole heap and be inspired from undertaking something like a masterclass... all depends who you climb with. Personally, every time I go climbing with my peers it's like a masterclass. I learn so much.

I agree with this fully, i reckon climbing a good mix of indoors and outdoors with different people is the best way to build strength up when at this level.
Perhaps maybe 1 or 2 light sessions of finger boarding a week just to help those fingers on their way. When climbing indoors i think it really helps to climb with someone whose strengths are not the same as yours. For example: I climb with a crimp fiend who bones (in the climbing sense of course) all holds. My weakness is crimping but i have better arm and body strength than him. You help each other in your weaker areas by doing what the other does.

On another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!

[(woz)]

When climbing indoors i think it really helps to climb with someone whose strengths are not the same as yours. For example: I climb with a crimp fiend who bones (in the climbing sense of course) all holds.

I hope you weren't referring to me then? I wouldn't be seen dead crimping. Dirty things. I have been deadhanging for quite a few years now and not really had as much success as I would like with the 1 armed 6, seconds rule. I'll definitely give some longer, 2 armed ones a try.

[unclesomebody]

Surely V7 climbers just want to be climbing rather than training? I think undertaking a 6 day a week deadhang structure is somewhat intense. . It's possible you'd learn a whole heap and be inspired from undertaking something like a masterclass... all depends who you climb with. Personally, every time I go climbing with my peers it's like a masterclass. I learn so much.

I agree with this fully, i reckon climbing a good mix of indoors and outdoors with different people is the best way to build strength up when at this level.
Perhaps maybe 1 or 2 light sessions of finger boarding a week just to help those fingers on their way. When climbing indoors i think it really helps to climb with someone whose strengths are not the same as yours. For example: I climb with a crimp fiend who bones (in the climbing sense of course) all holds. My weakness is crimping but i have better arm and body strength than him. You help each other in your weaker areas by doing what the other does.

On another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!

You better keep on revising unless you're revising for your secondary school entrance exams...

[Monolith]

Last summer, when it was basically too hot to get anything done, I took to the gym for a couple of months. When I came back to climbing, some things that I'd struggled with were done with ease. I think a lot of climbers often neglect to train the opposite muscle groups from those predominantly used in the sport. I've completely noticed a demise in the power stakes from not engaging in a frequent weight-training session so am coming back to it. Also, finger rolls with almost as much as you can lift work so well, it's just the problem of getting to a gym that isn't your usual council run affair with shit facilities.

[BenF]

On another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!

You better keep on revising unless you're revising for your secondary school entrance exams...

Oooh, cutting. 

Harsh, but funny.

[monkey boy]

I hope you weren't referring to me then? I wouldn't be seen dead crimping. Dirty things. I have been deadhanging for quite a few years now and not really had as much success as I would like with the 1 armed 6, seconds rule. I'll definitely give some longer, 2 armed ones a try.

no i was refering to other dan dont worry!

You better keep on revising unless you're revising for your secondary school entrance exams...

I dont understand!! Should I?! Haha

[andy_e]

On another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!

Amen to that brother. Fuck the exams, let's hope this sunny weather we've got today continues until the weekend so Caley may actually be dry...

[unclesomebody]

You better keep on revising unless you're revising for your secondary school entrance exams...

I dont understand!! Should I?! Haha

I'm saying that you grasp the English language at the level of a primary school student. I also know that you are not in primary school, so if you put these two things together you'll realise what I'm saying....   

[andy_e]

On another note, i hate revision and role on the cold days that are forcast for the weekend!

Amen to that brother. Fuck the exams, let's hope this sunny weather we've got today continues until the weekend so Caley may actually be dry...

No sooner do I say that then the heavens open 

[monkey boy]

I'm saying that you grasp the English language at the level of a primary school student. I also know that you are not in primary school, so if you put these two things together you'll realise what I'm saying....   

Ok cool, i guess me asking for an explanation doesnt help my cause either?!

  oh well hopefully i will do better in my exam!

[Nibile]

i think that holding for longer periods, like 30 secs, is possible when one already masters the suspension on the chosen hold, while the great problem (at least for me) in climbing seems to be being able to hold holds that are smaller and smaller as one progresses or wants to.
and to be able to hold smaller holds you have to increase your maximum strength, and that is obtained with short, super intense efforts. once you master the hold you can try to hold it longer or with wheights.

[Nibile]

training logs thread cross-post

yesterday:
long long warm up (more than one hour)
one arm max dead hangs
20 dead hangs for each arm, 6 seconds, on 2 cm flat edge, and on 2,5 cm sloper alternated.

seems to work.
ill tell you monday, cos tomorrow im off to ceriola again!!!

[Nibile]

the dead hang session worked alot, ive been in ceriola and was superpowerful, and superpowerfully failed on everything.
hell yes.

[bouldermonkey]

i have just got my moon board and have read a few articles saying that you should only be hanging for around 6-8 secs on each hang. is this the norm or do people hang for longer times or to failure. thought i would find out bfore i destroy my tendons. cheers

The article i read - cant remember where it was now but it was one of the main well known UK climbing sites, suggested that the best way to build strength in forearms was to dead hang until failure from both arms. (not until it gets painful.. but rather until you do actually fail). It also suggested deadhanging one arm for 6-8 secs, then swap to other arm and repeat.. keep going until failure.

Try doing this at home but the only suitable place i have for a bar is right at the top of my stairs (due to supporting/artificial walls) etc - not really condusive to good health when that failure moment comes.. you aint just fallin off a bar, you're goin down 1:3 terraced house stairs.

 

So i'm in the market for a finger board - seen a few nice ones on www.indoor-rock.co.uk, just wondered if anyone had any recommendations - or warnings.

[Nibile]

keep it simple and dont waste too much money in it, or do it yourself.

[Duma]

DIY - but if you can't be arsed, one of these is the way to go.

[fatdoc]

go moon, it's the best thing he sells.

IMO that is..