[andy_e]

I heard it was important to eat within an hour of finishing training to stop the immune system weakening amd to help recover tissues. Is this true, and what sort of food should be eaten? Is it also important to get a good night's sleep to rebuild muscles?

[Serpico]

The optimal time is reckoned to be eat something within 20 mins of stopping and a proper meal within an hour.
Your body doesn't start to replace the energy it's used at the end of a training session, it starts replacing it (if energy's available) as it's used. So you need to constantly keep taking onboard carbs and some protein during your training. The best way I've found is SlimFast. This is what Olympic rowers use as it's easily digested when stomach isn't ready for something heavy.
Re Sleep: According to Tudo Bompa's  'Periodization Training For Sports' serious athletes need up to 10 hrs sleep a night and possibly even a nap during the day.

[account_inactive]

http://www.maximuscle.com/research/athletes.html

or

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6TB0-4C7W711-3&_coverDate=05%2F31%2F2004&_alid=517120782&_rdoc=1&_fmt=&_orig=search&_qd=1&_cdi=5128&_sort=d&view=c&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=37f89269d282f3bc38ecad6aef0fa467

Make up your own mind

[andy_e]

The optimal time is reckoned to be eat something within 20 mins of stopping and a proper meal within an hour.

KFC on the way home from boulderUK tonight then!

Re Sleep: According to Tudo Bompa's  'Periodization Training For Sports' serious athletes need up to 10 hrs sleep a night and possibly even a nap during the day.

Does it matter when this 10 hours occurs? I.e. Is it OK for me to sleep from 3am until 1pm?

[Monolith]

Andi, I sense the student in you is looking for ways to slack! I used to try and legitimate behaviour that was clearly detrimental to my climbing, but done all under the premise of 'i'm young'. Get pissed & get fat alongside the others, or get to bed and get strong.

[Serpico]

KFC on the way home from boulderUK tonight then!

Unlucky Fried Kitten isn't a proper meal...

[andy_e]

True, but I've heard goat's testicles do contain a lot of protein...
And anyway, it's there, beckoning me at the top of the hill, I can't resist popping in for a bite...

[Serpico]

True, but I've heard goat's testicles do contain a lot of protein...

Are you a Chupacabra?

[andy_e]

I didn't think so until I looked in the mirror and compared it to a photograph...

[dobbin]

There is almost no nutrional value to KFC. You would be better off getting off home in a better time and making something healthy.

[Bonjoy]

Besides...http://www.kfccruelty.co.uk/

[bouldermonkey]

So my Chips, Fried Chicken and onion rings from the local kebab shop after my 4 hour training session down the wall last night wasnt a particularly good idea?   

Never mind - there was nothing in the house, and the grocery store around the corner is TOO expensive.

[Monolith]

It was probably the worst idea possible. I'm pretty sure that if you did a little bit of costing and nutrient analysis, pound-for-pound the grocery store would have triumphed. But endorphin-for-endorphin, your MSG laced, reconstituted chicken meat meal probably triumphed.

[bouldermonkey]

It was probably the worst idea possible. I'm pretty sure that if you did a little bit of costing and nutrient analysis, pound-for-pound the grocery store would have triumphed. But endorphin-for-endorphin, your MSG laced, reconstituted chicken meat meal probably triumphed.

Nutrition wise - you're definately right.  I've got gut-rot supreme today. 

As for cost wise... the kebab shop is the cheapest option hands down every time - the prices they charge at that local grocery store are extreme - i'm surprised they even remain in business charging those prices.

So what would be the best thing to eat after a 4 hour bouldering/climbing session - naturally protein is a fairly good option, so eggs, chicken etc.

The reason i ask is because i go climbing straight from the office, so from lunch, through the afternoon, into a climbing session, through that and home again, works out the best past of 11 hours without food.

[Monolith]

If I was in your shoes, I'd venture further afield until arriving at a decent greengrocers that you can afford to shop at. It makes very little sense to spend quite a lot of money on shitty chicken when you could go and buy a tuna steak and some broccoli for about the same non?

There's tons of threads on the forum on protein and diet-related matters. Just have a browse through the search function with some key words.

I'm still waiting for a thread to emerge along the lines of "how many times a week can I get pissed before my grade suffers".

P>S I've just noticed you're running the London Marathon this year. I'd have a drastic rethink on your diet if eating poor grade chicken in saturated fat is becoming your sports diet.

[fatdoc]

well.........without getting too out of order i reckon getting a bit pissed most nights is fine!! i.e: i have a beer or two most nights of the week.

there again, i dont climb font 8A, eat too much food, work too many hrs and have loads of non climbing committments.... I'm happy though 

[underground]

I'm still waiting for a thread to emerge along the lines of "how many times a week can I get pissed before my grade suffers".

I did a lot of research into this, but it proved inconclusive. I think you need a control and a benchmark. I conducted all the experimantation myself....

[Monolith]

 

Underground, I still have a 'package' here for you which I absolutely must get out asap. Get back to your guzzling lad!

[Paul B]

As for cost wise... the kebab shop is the cheapest option hands down every time - the prices they charge at that local grocery store are extreme - i'm surprised they even remain in business charging those prices.

Really? where do you live? I spend around £20 a week on food and drink and thats having an organic veg. box delivered, not using supermarkets, using local free range butchers, fishmongers etc. I could just about get two meals a day at broomhill friery for that and your kebab shop can't be cheaper! ( (some people would beg to differ on this point i'm sure: I actually eat shit loads!)

[saltbeef]

I actually eat shit loads!

Paul you weigh 2 stone. Science doesn't agree. Calories in-calories used=how big you are.
maybe your bowels are defunct?

[Paul B]

56kg!
I don't think your in a good place to comment on the disfunctionality of someones bowels considering the smells you were letting off last time I saw you! nasty 

[bouldermonkey]

Went down the local Jacksons store - nearest grocery store for 3 miles.

Bought:

Small bag of brown rice £4.00
450g minced beef  £4.99
1ltr skimmed milk £1.60
Carton of Fresh OJ - 1 Ltr £1.99

Total: £12.58

Made myself a Chilli Con Carne with a tub of sauce i had in the cupboard and ate half tonight, other half tomorrow night.  So thats about £6.50 per night.

I could eat for almost a week down at the kebab shop on the amount i spent tonight for those two meals.

Disgusting.  No wonder the nations getting fat... healthy food is just so damned expensive.

 

[Paul B]

go somewhere else then? where do you live?

[bouldermonkey]

go somewhere else then? where do you live?

Live city centre York - its the cheapest place for 3-4 miles.

I dont drive, and normally do a large shop which last 2-3 months via online shopping.

Just that this time of year, as for everyone, money is scarce. Once i get paid i'll be alright until then, it does work out cheaper to eat junk.

[webbo]

isn't there a sainsburys in york city centre.go just before they shut and you'll catch the stuff thats been reduced as it goes past its sell by date.