[andy_e]

I heard it was important to eat within an hour of finishing training to stop the immune system weakening amd to help recover tissues. Is this true, and what sort of food should be eaten? Is it also important to get a good night's sleep to rebuild muscles?

[Serpico]

The optimal time is reckoned to be eat something within 20 mins of stopping and a proper meal within an hour.
Your body doesn't start to replace the energy it's used at the end of a training session, it starts replacing it (if energy's available) as it's used. So you need to constantly keep taking onboard carbs and some protein during your training. The best way I've found is SlimFast. This is what Olympic rowers use as it's easily digested when stomach isn't ready for something heavy.
Re Sleep: According to Tudo Bompa's  'Periodization Training For Sports' serious athletes need up to 10 hrs sleep a night and possibly even a nap during the day.

[account_inactive]

http://www.maximuscle.com/research/athletes.html

or

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6TB0-4C7W711-3&_coverDate=05%2F31%2F2004&_alid=517120782&_rdoc=1&_fmt=&_orig=search&_qd=1&_cdi=5128&_sort=d&view=c&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=37f89269d282f3bc38ecad6aef0fa467

Make up your own mind

[andy_e]

The optimal time is reckoned to be eat something within 20 mins of stopping and a proper meal within an hour.

KFC on the way home from boulderUK tonight then!

Re Sleep: According to Tudo Bompa's  'Periodization Training For Sports' serious athletes need up to 10 hrs sleep a night and possibly even a nap during the day.

Does it matter when this 10 hours occurs? I.e. Is it OK for me to sleep from 3am until 1pm?

[Monolith]

Andi, I sense the student in you is looking for ways to slack! I used to try and legitimate behaviour that was clearly detrimental to my climbing, but done all under the premise of 'i'm young'. Get pissed & get fat alongside the others, or get to bed and get strong.

[Serpico]

KFC on the way home from boulderUK tonight then!

Unlucky Fried Kitten isn't a proper meal...

[andy_e]

True, but I've heard goat's testicles do contain a lot of protein...
And anyway, it's there, beckoning me at the top of the hill, I can't resist popping in for a bite...

[Serpico]

True, but I've heard goat's testicles do contain a lot of protein...

Are you a Chupacabra?

[andy_e]

I didn't think so until I looked in the mirror and compared it to a photograph...

[dobbin]

There is almost no nutrional value to KFC. You would be better off getting off home in a better time and making something healthy.

[Bonjoy]

Besides...http://www.kfccruelty.co.uk/

[bouldermonkey]

So my Chips, Fried Chicken and onion rings from the local kebab shop after my 4 hour training session down the wall last night wasnt a particularly good idea?   

Never mind - there was nothing in the house, and the grocery store around the corner is TOO expensive.

[Monolith]

It was probably the worst idea possible. I'm pretty sure that if you did a little bit of costing and nutrient analysis, pound-for-pound the grocery store would have triumphed. But endorphin-for-endorphin, your MSG laced, reconstituted chicken meat meal probably triumphed.

[bouldermonkey]

It was probably the worst idea possible. I'm pretty sure that if you did a little bit of costing and nutrient analysis, pound-for-pound the grocery store would have triumphed. But endorphin-for-endorphin, your MSG laced, reconstituted chicken meat meal probably triumphed.

Nutrition wise - you're definately right.  I've got gut-rot supreme today. 

As for cost wise... the kebab shop is the cheapest option hands down every time - the prices they charge at that local grocery store are extreme - i'm surprised they even remain in business charging those prices.

So what would be the best thing to eat after a 4 hour bouldering/climbing session - naturally protein is a fairly good option, so eggs, chicken etc.

The reason i ask is because i go climbing straight from the office, so from lunch, through the afternoon, into a climbing session, through that and home again, works out the best past of 11 hours without food.

[Monolith]

If I was in your shoes, I'd venture further afield until arriving at a decent greengrocers that you can afford to shop at. It makes very little sense to spend quite a lot of money on shitty chicken when you could go and buy a tuna steak and some broccoli for about the same non?

There's tons of threads on the forum on protein and diet-related matters. Just have a browse through the search function with some key words.

I'm still waiting for a thread to emerge along the lines of "how many times a week can I get pissed before my grade suffers".

P>S I've just noticed you're running the London Marathon this year. I'd have a drastic rethink on your diet if eating poor grade chicken in saturated fat is becoming your sports diet.

[fatdoc]

well.........without getting too out of order i reckon getting a bit pissed most nights is fine!! i.e: i have a beer or two most nights of the week.

there again, i dont climb font 8A, eat too much food, work too many hrs and have loads of non climbing committments.... I'm happy though 

[underground]

I'm still waiting for a thread to emerge along the lines of "how many times a week can I get pissed before my grade suffers".

I did a lot of research into this, but it proved inconclusive. I think you need a control and a benchmark. I conducted all the experimantation myself....

[Monolith]

 

Underground, I still have a 'package' here for you which I absolutely must get out asap. Get back to your guzzling lad!

[Paul B]

As for cost wise... the kebab shop is the cheapest option hands down every time - the prices they charge at that local grocery store are extreme - i'm surprised they even remain in business charging those prices.

Really? where do you live? I spend around £20 a week on food and drink and thats having an organic veg. box delivered, not using supermarkets, using local free range butchers, fishmongers etc. I could just about get two meals a day at broomhill friery for that and your kebab shop can't be cheaper! ( (some people would beg to differ on this point i'm sure: I actually eat shit loads!)

[saltbeef]

I actually eat shit loads!

Paul you weigh 2 stone. Science doesn't agree. Calories in-calories used=how big you are.
maybe your bowels are defunct?

[Paul B]

56kg!
I don't think your in a good place to comment on the disfunctionality of someones bowels considering the smells you were letting off last time I saw you! nasty 

[bouldermonkey]

Went down the local Jacksons store - nearest grocery store for 3 miles.

Bought:

Small bag of brown rice £4.00
450g minced beef  £4.99
1ltr skimmed milk £1.60
Carton of Fresh OJ - 1 Ltr £1.99

Total: £12.58

Made myself a Chilli Con Carne with a tub of sauce i had in the cupboard and ate half tonight, other half tomorrow night.  So thats about £6.50 per night.

I could eat for almost a week down at the kebab shop on the amount i spent tonight for those two meals.

Disgusting.  No wonder the nations getting fat... healthy food is just so damned expensive.

 

[Paul B]

go somewhere else then? where do you live?

[bouldermonkey]

go somewhere else then? where do you live?

Live city centre York - its the cheapest place for 3-4 miles.

I dont drive, and normally do a large shop which last 2-3 months via online shopping.

Just that this time of year, as for everyone, money is scarce. Once i get paid i'll be alright until then, it does work out cheaper to eat junk.

[webbo]

isn't there a sainsburys in york city centre.go just before they shut and you'll catch the stuff thats been reduced as it goes past its sell by date.

[webbo]

well.........without getting too out of order i reckon getting a bit pissed most nights is fine!! i.e: i have a beer or two most nights of the week.

how does this fit in with safe drinking levels.21 units eh.

i bet you wouldn't advise your patients to drink this much.

[fatdoc]

just a beer or two....

not 6 cans of cider and a bottle of sweet sherry mate!

[webbo]

i find that most people admit to drinking less than they really do when talking to a doctor.especially health professionals.
do you talk to your self.

[webbo]

i assessed a gentleman this morning who was referred to my mental health team as he now had his alcohol use in control.
question. do you drink more than 2 bottles of spirits or 30 pints of beer or 8 bottles of wine a day.
answer.yes if i can.
thats some controlled drinking.

[Paul B]

go to sainsburys, plenty of students live in york and i'm sure they don't pay the prices you quote for food, to be honest the "junk food is cheaper" thing seems like a cop out.

[bouldermonkey]

go to sainsburys, plenty of students live in york and i'm sure they don't pay the prices you quote for food, to be honest the "junk food is cheaper" thing seems like a cop out.

It aint a cop out Paul.

Like i say, come pay day 3 month shop at Tesco - see me through till Spring.

Even Sainsbury's is too expensive for the amount of cash i have available.

I've done the looking and checking... trust me. If i could afford to do a decent shop for decent food i would do.

As for the students, every student i know has just been given a god damned loan/grant and is loaded. 

[moose]

go to sainsburys, plenty of students live in york and i'm sure they don't pay the prices you quote for food, to be honest the "junk food is cheaper" thing seems like a cop out.

Surely even York city centre's M&S would be cheaper than a take away and presumably better for you? Last time I passed one I picked up a load of "nutritionally balanced" microwavable / oven-ready meals on special-offer that were pretty nice.  Their tinned chille and bolognaise sauces are also quite good and often on offer (and so they should be - around £2 a tin normally).  To be honest though, when post-climb famished I can rarely resist a large big helping of beans on toast (with a bit of chille powder and cumin etc mixed in, and shed-loads of pepper on top).

Sadly none of these options give that fantastic feeling of "dirtyness" that a kebab shop can provide - their offerings are about so much more than just getting fed.... (an  "I'm being a bad boy... but I deserve it" kinda thing?).

[Nibile]

i find that most people admit to drinking less than they really do when talking to a doctor.

a well reknown alcoholic of my town, once went to the doctor for a check up, in the early morning. the doctor felt his liver and asked him: do you drink? and he replied: yes thank you, where we go?

[fatdoc]

i find that most people admit to drinking less than they really do when talking to a doctor.especially health professionals.
do you talk to your self.

yes all the time

i assessed a gentleman this morning who was referred to my mental health team as he now had his alcohol use in control.
question. do you drink more than 2 bottles of spirits or 30 pints of beer or 8 bottles of wine a day.
answer.yes if i can.
thats some controlled drinking.

GOD.....

didnt realize you a mental health professional


and i agree, that is one of the most outrageous examples of more than slightly over 21 units a week i've ever seen, including when i worked on a liver unit!!!

[bouldermonkey]

go to sainsburys, plenty of students live in york and i'm sure they don't pay the prices you quote for food, to be honest the "junk food is cheaper" thing seems like a cop out.

Surely even York city centre's M&S would be cheaper than a take away and presumably better for you? Last time I passed one I picked up a load of "nutritionally balanced" microwavable / oven-ready meals on special-offer that were pretty nice.  Their tinned chille and bolognaise sauces are also quite good and often on offer (and so they should be - around £2 a tin normally).  To be honest though, when post-climb famished I can rarely resist a large big helping of beans on toast (with a bit of chille powder and cumin etc mixed in, and shed-loads of pepper on top).

Sadly none of these options give that fantastic feeling of "dirtyness" that a kebab shop can provide - their offerings are about so much more than just getting fed.... (an  "I'm being a bad boy... but I deserve it" kinda thing?).

M&S probably is cheaper.. shame its 3 miles from where i live, isnt open when i'm off work, and is 10 miles away from where i do work so i cant visit at lunch time.

I've checked out every single possible opporunity to get proper food - it just doesnt work.

If i had a car... then yeah, i could get up to ASDA on a night and buy some healthy cheap food - but stuck with the circumstances that i have... nope. Until payday... roll on a week Friday.  

Anyway - this kinda turned into a bash the newbie and tell him that he;s always wrong....  

[fatdoc]

no newbie bash......

let's all be nice to eachother

i'm sure peeps were trying to b helpful, if construed as a bashing let's all say big sorry and help the poor sod out of a shite food spiral.

however, one does have to say, if the kebab diet is pure meat (not doner), with good salad and sensible dressing....... that's a truly balanced meal!!!! i make this sort of thing a lot 

[dobbin]

Paul you weigh 2 stone.

And thats with 1 whole stone of schlong to contend with.

[webbo]

bm.york has a park and ride scheme which means there are regular buses going to monks cross which has a sainsburys and an asda.also m and s opens on a sunday.

[Monolith]

Paul - I'd be interested to hear about the rates for the organic food home delivery service? Is it a national business or local to Sheffield?

[Ena]

Some useful directories for organic and local food:

http://www.bigbarn.co.uk

http://www.whyorganic.org/involved_organicDirectory.asp

[bouldermonkey]

bm.york has a park and ride scheme which means there are regular buses going to monks cross which has a sainsburys and an asda.also m and s opens on a sunday.

Aye... i know webbo.

Just work gets in the way.

T'is alright now though, managed to scrimp spare change together last night at home (amazing what you can find down the back of the sofa!!) and i bought a large bag of brown rice. I'll get by with what odds i have in the house together with the rice.

[a dense loner]

oh my god!

[webbo]

oh my god!

since you've not be around to keep us in check dense.uk bouldering has become a lifestyle advise site.
any tips on how to look 20 years younger.

[bouldermonkey]

Well been paid and did the shop last night.

£250 worth.

Been delivered tomorrow night.

That'll keep me going through until April, at least.

[Tricky]

best thing for straight after i find is:-
home made isotonic drink 1/3 fruit juice, 2/3 water, pinch of salt
banana, philli and honey sandwich on granary

dont know if its any good but tastes ok

maybe not 4 pints of kronenberg