hmmm...seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.
The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again
I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.
very good way to end the year.clean.offshore.4 people out.three hours session with no booties.
I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me. my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.
what the fuck's a Bic???
i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now...
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.