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One for the surfers (Read 454582 times)

SA Chris

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One for the surfers
December 18, 2006, 12:52:29 pm
Like to hear some opinion here, especially from the better surfers.

Went out yesterday afternoon in Aberdeen. Left it pretty late so tide could go below groynes, so we were a bit pushed for time. It was a small wave, only 1-2 ft on sets or so, but nice and clean and with one definite peak where it was breaking, nowhere else on the beach really worthwhile.  I was on my 7ft 6" minimal. A couple of guys turned up with big ass Bics, about 8ft plus and paddled to just beyond where the waves were breaking for me, so they could catch them earlier. They then proceeded to catch every good wave in the set between them, and go right on every wave right across my path, so I was often having to pull back. They would then paddle straight back to the peak again and sit and wait for the next set I know this is fair enough asit is part of the great pecking order, rules of the surf and all that and I wouldn't dream of dropping in, but when smaller waves came in that looked to me like they would break further in and I could catch them, they paddled for them anyway, even though it was pretty clear (to me anyway) that they wouldn't make it, and by this time I worked this out I had missed the wave too, but what do you do? Do you say anything, or let it go? If I say anything as soon as I open my mouth it's pretty apparent I am not really "local" even though I have surfed Aberdeen regularly for the last 2 1/2 years?

As it happened, still had a pretty good session, just left feeling a bit annoyed, so not really pissed off or anything, just unsure of where you stand on these matters.

Nibile

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#1 Re: One for the surfers
December 18, 2006, 03:02:18 pm
hmmm...

as a longboarder, i would have sit with my 9'2" even further behind... ;)

seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.
too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.
its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.

i think that something could be politely said.
last spring, i found myself in the opposite role. i got in the water, and was feeling very very good. just one second after i was in, a bigger set came, and since i was the only one in the right spot, i turned and catched the wave. then it got bigger, and i dont know why but i was the only one sitting further out, catching the bigger waves. at one moment, i turned again for one smaller wave, and one man said "cmon leave this for us" and i understood i was being too selfish. so i still sat there catching the biggest waves, but only those ones, nothing else.

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#2 Re: One for the surfers
December 19, 2006, 04:54:41 pm
you definately should of spoken up and make them aware of errors. maybe they weren't even aware of being pricks..
but this is a world wide problem when the waves are small and when mal riders can sit further out. if they continue to do it, just paddle directly under [infront of] them to get a wave. if you drop in you could fall and then get cleaved by their great big fin or you could ding your board on their rock hard boat...

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#3 Re: One for the surfers
December 19, 2006, 06:59:37 pm
hmmm...


seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.
too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.
its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.


 dream, dream,dream dream.   :whistle:

i think this nirvana you dream of can be found at planet reebok...

Falling Down

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#4 Re: One for the surfers
December 19, 2006, 07:09:33 pm
Like Oldfella says, they might not have known it was a problem.  However, you should have said something or paddled for a few that you knew they werent going to make, you could always pull out/kick out if they did manage it.  Alternatively they might have been even more short sighted than you and thought you were a seal or something...

The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again - In my experience this only works when you've got a smallish crew of experienced surfers/mates (unless they are called Pete or Jason) with the quality vs quantity good attitude that Nibs refers to in the water though... it doesn't do any harm to point this out from time to time though.

However, in a couple of places where I've surfed when it's been smallish, safe and very busy (Hawaii Sth Shore and Huntington Pier) you get loads of people paddling for waves but if you have priority you just shout and they all kick out. At first I was thinking 'fuckin dropping in bastards' but then realised it means that every wave gets ridden by someone and nothing goes to waste - a bit wierd to get used too.

Try paddling around a bit - you'll be surprised how many people just 'teabag' sitting in the same spot - another good trick is to start paddling fast outside when a set approaches with a serious expression as if it's a big one. 9 out of 10 times the rest of the sheep will follow you and then be too far outside, in the meantime you've turned around and got back in position for the best waves :-)

I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.





oldfella

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#5 Re: One for the surfers
December 19, 2006, 08:21:49 pm
teabagging, that's mine!!! plagerist......

i have many tricks to ensure that i get the good waves, but there is no chance i'll tell you.
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.

SA Chris

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#6 Re: One for the surfers
December 20, 2006, 09:39:00 am

The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again

That was what I always thought. I dont think these guys weren't unaware of what they were doing; they seems pretty competent and I got the idea that they wouldn't normally be on the board they were on, but for the wave being so small. Also they avoided eye contact a couple of times when they paddled past, so I got the feeling they knew they were in the wrong.

Quote
I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.

Good point.

Oh well, Saturday is looking to be superb for the Moray coast on Saturday. Hopefully the point will be working.





SA Chris

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#7 Re: One for the surfers
December 20, 2006, 09:41:29 am
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.

I have no idea what you are talking about, but be keen to meet up; anywhere in Scotland or Northumberland if the conditions are good. Could even get you and FD out on snowboards if it's good up here.

clm

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#8 Re: One for the surfers
December 24, 2006, 03:01:42 pm
ive got a bic :oops:

Nibile

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#9 Re: One for the surfers
January 02, 2007, 05:08:55 pm
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.


Falling Down

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#10 Re: One for the surfers
January 03, 2007, 08:41:06 am
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

Nice... it's been really stormy in the West over the Christmas period with lots of swell and lots of wind - most sheltered spots have been up and working and I bet the SW has been really good.  I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..

SA Chris

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#11 Re: One for the surfers
January 03, 2007, 10:03:49 am
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

We managed a good end to the year on Saturday too. Thursday night's storm brought some good solid 3-4ft swell into stonehaven, nice and sunny dozen or so folk in. Offshore got a bit too strong for a while, but not bad.

SA Chris

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#12 Re: One for the surfers
January 03, 2007, 11:02:58 am
I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..

It does indeed. Might try and get a lunchtime session at stonehaven and tick one of my new years' ambitions.

clm

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#13 Re: One for the surfers
January 06, 2007, 07:59:39 pm
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me.  my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.

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#14 Re: One for the surfers
January 07, 2007, 10:16:06 am
Sorry clm my comment about Bic boards was tongue in cheek (coming at the end of a serious post I thought it was  obvious but I guess I should use smileys more often) Anyone can ride anything (including body boards, canoes and goatboats) in my opinion as long as they are behaving respectfully and don't bring an attitude into the water..

Friday was good.. I took my brother in law for his second ever session.  We had Scarborough North Bay in the morning, 2-3ft and clean and then the Pumphouse reef to ourselves at Cayton Bay in the afternoon at about 3-4ft and really, really nicely lined up.  I was riding a new board for the first time, a 6'3 Quad with Pavel speedialer fins, very fast and very loose and great fun.

I was surprised about how warm the water was in comparison with other East Coast January surfs I've had over the years.  The result of having no winter yet I suppose...

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#15 Re: One for the surfers
January 12, 2007, 04:07:37 pm
Been real bad down here, before christmas was fully on. will post some longboard pictures soon.

SA Chris

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#16 Re: One for the surfers
January 12, 2007, 05:32:23 pm
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me.  my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.

Sorry, Was meant tongue in cheek too, to counteract plussing. Thought you would see the funny side of it.

Swell was too small to have any effect on Stonehaven, never got in.

Not been in the water since since the 30th, when the water was pretty warm, but strong winds stopped it from being too comfortable.

clm

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#17 Re: One for the surfers
January 22, 2007, 06:17:37 pm
aaaah, its spiralling out of control...now where is that tongue in cheek emoticon.

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#18 Re: One for the surfers
January 22, 2007, 07:48:16 pm
what the fuck's a Bic???

i have no idea how to surf....... god i wish i did... body boardin in brittany last yr was soooooo good...family holiday but with fun for the parents, gonna go again for sure! The surfers told me it was 3 ft clean with a real long swell - whateveer that means - I just cant afford the time for another condition dependant sport... i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now... must buy a lottery ticket!

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#19 Re: One for the surfers
January 22, 2007, 08:56:31 pm
Getting lots of experience down here, just have to stop cracking the locals with my keanu impression,
"im fuking surfing..."

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#20 Re: One for the surfers
January 22, 2007, 11:26:49 pm
what the fuck's a Bic???

Plastic type 'short' longboard, pretty indestructible, reasonable easy to stand on, quite cheap, hence gets a bad reputation for being a punters board. And yes they do appear to be made by the same company who make the biros.  ::)



http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=S

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#21 Re: One for the surfers
January 23, 2007, 12:42:07 am
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.

SA Chris

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#22 Re: One for the surfers
January 23, 2007, 09:01:15 am
i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now...

I did too, only moved up from sponging in my mid 20s, but reckon I'll be surfing long after I've stopped climbing. Bit like Yvonne Chouinard, only less honed and rich


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#23 Re: One for the surfers
January 23, 2007, 12:21:12 pm
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.

When are you there?  Me and Mrs FD are off there for the first two weeks in March.. it's our third trip to the Island now and have got very familiar with the place.  I've surfed all the known breaks now, know some of the locals and have a good map marked up with access details that I can get to you as some of the spots are hard to find if you aren't with someone who can direct you.

On the Atlantic side:

It's often windy and onshore but the waves are stil great because the reefs are so well defined.

- Soup Bowls is pretty heavy right hander when over 4-5 ft and at low tide, rippy, shallow and full of Urchins - take some booties, lots of sun lotion and some courage.

- High Rocks and Parlours are a bit more forgiving right handers but still powerful - get used to long hold-downs.

- Tent Bay is a bit of gnarly Left with rocks - not surfed very often but OK once you figure out the lineup.

On the Caribean Side:

- Duppies is a long way out to see (1/2 mile+) and sharky - I've only surfed it once and probably won't go back.

- Maycocks - A great spot, nice and sheltered and sandy/reef bottom, very relaxing and pleasant.

Further down you need a good North Swell for any of the spots to work:

- ?? - Really great right and short left off a nice beach with cocktails..
- Tropicana's - A fast hollow left, I got some great barrels here but it's super shallow and has fire coral which really does burn.
- Sandy Lane - Nice easy reef/sand break, can get a bit crowded.

On the South East side:

- Freights - A great long easy left hander, great for longboarding.
- South Point - Ditto... can get a bit windy.

PM me and I'll scan you the map; you'll have a great trip if you get good waves.  The Bajans are really great people and the atmosphere is fantastic...

Idol eyes

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#24 Re: One for the surfers
January 23, 2007, 10:40:40 pm
Going out after valintines day, kind of with all the Newquay nutters, so its proberbly party party, keen to scope out some bouldering, then hopefully of to Shri Lanka, you know any climbing around Barbie... only going for three weeks, so could possibly meet up? you are welcome to come down here and hook up... stay tuned to us would be good to see you.

 

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