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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: SA Chris on December 18, 2006, 12:52:29 pm

Title: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 18, 2006, 12:52:29 pm
Like to hear some opinion here, especially from the better surfers.

Went out yesterday afternoon in Aberdeen. Left it pretty late so tide could go below groynes, so we were a bit pushed for time. It was a small wave, only 1-2 ft on sets or so, but nice and clean and with one definite peak where it was breaking, nowhere else on the beach really worthwhile.  I was on my 7ft 6" minimal. A couple of guys turned up with big ass Bics, about 8ft plus and paddled to just beyond where the waves were breaking for me, so they could catch them earlier. They then proceeded to catch every good wave in the set between them, and go right on every wave right across my path, so I was often having to pull back. They would then paddle straight back to the peak again and sit and wait for the next set I know this is fair enough asit is part of the great pecking order, rules of the surf and all that and I wouldn't dream of dropping in, but when smaller waves came in that looked to me like they would break further in and I could catch them, they paddled for them anyway, even though it was pretty clear (to me anyway) that they wouldn't make it, and by this time I worked this out I had missed the wave too, but what do you do? Do you say anything, or let it go? If I say anything as soon as I open my mouth it's pretty apparent I am not really "local" even though I have surfed Aberdeen regularly for the last 2 1/2 years?

As it happened, still had a pretty good session, just left feeling a bit annoyed, so not really pissed off or anything, just unsure of where you stand on these matters.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on December 18, 2006, 03:02:18 pm
hmmm...

as a longboarder, i would have sit with my 9'2" even further behind... ;)

seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.
too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.
its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.

i think that something could be politely said.
last spring, i found myself in the opposite role. i got in the water, and was feeling very very good. just one second after i was in, a bigger set came, and since i was the only one in the right spot, i turned and catched the wave. then it got bigger, and i dont know why but i was the only one sitting further out, catching the bigger waves. at one moment, i turned again for one smaller wave, and one man said "cmon leave this for us" and i understood i was being too selfish. so i still sat there catching the biggest waves, but only those ones, nothing else.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on December 19, 2006, 04:54:41 pm
you definately should of spoken up and make them aware of errors. maybe they weren't even aware of being pricks..
but this is a world wide problem when the waves are small and when mal riders can sit further out. if they continue to do it, just paddle directly under [infront of] them to get a wave. if you drop in you could fall and then get cleaved by their great big fin or you could ding your board on their rock hard boat...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on December 19, 2006, 06:59:37 pm
hmmm...


seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.
too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.
its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.


 dream, dream,dream dream.   :whistle:

i think this nirvana you dream of can be found at planet reebok...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 19, 2006, 07:09:33 pm
Like Oldfella says, they might not have known it was a problem.  However, you should have said something or paddled for a few that you knew they werent going to make, you could always pull out/kick out if they did manage it.  Alternatively they might have been even more short sighted than you and thought you were a seal or something...

The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again - In my experience this only works when you've got a smallish crew of experienced surfers/mates (unless they are called Pete or Jason) with the quality vs quantity good attitude that Nibs refers to in the water though... it doesn't do any harm to point this out from time to time though.

However, in a couple of places where I've surfed when it's been smallish, safe and very busy (Hawaii Sth Shore and Huntington Pier) you get loads of people paddling for waves but if you have priority you just shout and they all kick out. At first I was thinking 'fuckin dropping in bastards' but then realised it means that every wave gets ridden by someone and nothing goes to waste - a bit wierd to get used too.

Try paddling around a bit - you'll be surprised how many people just 'teabag' sitting in the same spot - another good trick is to start paddling fast outside when a set approaches with a serious expression as if it's a big one. 9 out of 10 times the rest of the sheep will follow you and then be too far outside, in the meantime you've turned around and got back in position for the best waves :-)

I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on December 19, 2006, 08:21:49 pm
teabagging, that's mine!!! plagerist......

i have many tricks to ensure that i get the good waves, but there is no chance i'll tell you.
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 20, 2006, 09:39:00 am

The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again

That was what I always thought. I dont think these guys weren't unaware of what they were doing; they seems pretty competent and I got the idea that they wouldn't normally be on the board they were on, but for the wave being so small. Also they avoided eye contact a couple of times when they paddled past, so I got the feeling they knew they were in the wrong.

Quote
I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.

Good point.

Oh well, Saturday is looking to be superb for the Moray coast on Saturday. Hopefully the point will be working.




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 20, 2006, 09:41:29 am
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.

I have no idea what you are talking about, but be keen to meet up; anywhere in Scotland or Northumberland if the conditions are good. Could even get you and FD out on snowboards if it's good up here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on December 24, 2006, 03:01:42 pm
ive got a bic :oops:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 02, 2007, 05:08:55 pm
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

(http://www.charlieisland.it/Immagini2/capodanno-200624.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 03, 2007, 08:41:06 am
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

Nice... it's been really stormy in the West over the Christmas period with lots of swell and lots of wind - most sheltered spots have been up and working and I bet the SW has been really good.  I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2007, 10:03:49 am
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

We managed a good end to the year on Saturday too. Thursday night's storm brought some good solid 3-4ft swell into stonehaven, nice and sunny dozen or so folk in. Offshore got a bit too strong for a while, but not bad.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2007, 11:02:58 am
I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..

It does indeed. Might try and get a lunchtime session at stonehaven and tick one of my new years' ambitions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 06, 2007, 07:59:39 pm
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me.  my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 07, 2007, 10:16:06 am
Sorry clm my comment about Bic boards was tongue in cheek (coming at the end of a serious post I thought it was  obvious but I guess I should use smileys more often) Anyone can ride anything (including body boards, canoes and goatboats) in my opinion as long as they are behaving respectfully and don't bring an attitude into the water..

Friday was good.. I took my brother in law for his second ever session.  We had Scarborough North Bay in the morning, 2-3ft and clean and then the Pumphouse reef to ourselves at Cayton Bay in the afternoon at about 3-4ft and really, really nicely lined up.  I was riding a new board for the first time, a 6'3 Quad with Pavel speedialer fins, very fast and very loose and great fun.

I was surprised about how warm the water was in comparison with other East Coast January surfs I've had over the years.  The result of having no winter yet I suppose...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 12, 2007, 04:07:37 pm
Been real bad down here, before christmas was fully on. will post some longboard pictures soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2007, 05:32:23 pm
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me.  my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.

Sorry, Was meant tongue in cheek too, to counteract plussing. Thought you would see the funny side of it.

Swell was too small to have any effect on Stonehaven, never got in.

Not been in the water since since the 30th, when the water was pretty warm, but strong winds stopped it from being too comfortable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 22, 2007, 06:17:37 pm
aaaah, its spiralling out of control...now where is that tongue in cheek emoticon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on January 22, 2007, 07:48:16 pm
what the fuck's a Bic???

i have no idea how to surf....... god i wish i did... body boardin in brittany last yr was soooooo good...family holiday but with fun for the parents, gonna go again for sure! The surfers told me it was 3 ft clean with a real long swell - whateveer that means - I just cant afford the time for another condition dependant sport... i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now... must buy a lottery ticket!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 22, 2007, 08:56:31 pm
Getting lots of experience down here, just have to stop cracking the locals with my keanu impression,
"im fuking surfing..."
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 22, 2007, 11:26:49 pm
what the fuck's a Bic???

Plastic type 'short' longboard, pretty indestructible, reasonable easy to stand on, quite cheap, hence gets a bad reputation for being a punters board. And yes they do appear to be made by the same company who make the biros.  ::)

(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/products/bic/bic73_lge.jpg)

http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=S
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2007, 12:42:07 am
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2007, 09:01:15 am
i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now...

I did too, only moved up from sponging in my mid 20s, but reckon I'll be surfing long after I've stopped climbing. Bit like Yvonne Chouinard, only less honed and rich

(http://ec2.images-amazon.com/images/P/0143037838.01._AA240_SCLZZZZZZZ_V61147956_.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 23, 2007, 12:21:12 pm
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.

When are you there?  Me and Mrs FD are off there for the first two weeks in March.. it's our third trip to the Island now and have got very familiar with the place.  I've surfed all the known breaks now, know some of the locals and have a good map marked up with access details that I can get to you as some of the spots are hard to find if you aren't with someone who can direct you.

On the Atlantic side:

It's often windy and onshore but the waves are stil great because the reefs are so well defined.

- Soup Bowls is pretty heavy right hander when over 4-5 ft and at low tide, rippy, shallow and full of Urchins - take some booties, lots of sun lotion and some courage.

- High Rocks and Parlours are a bit more forgiving right handers but still powerful - get used to long hold-downs.

- Tent Bay is a bit of gnarly Left with rocks - not surfed very often but OK once you figure out the lineup.

On the Caribean Side:

- Duppies is a long way out to see (1/2 mile+) and sharky - I've only surfed it once and probably won't go back.

- Maycocks - A great spot, nice and sheltered and sandy/reef bottom, very relaxing and pleasant.

Further down you need a good North Swell for any of the spots to work:

- ?? - Really great right and short left off a nice beach with cocktails..
- Tropicana's - A fast hollow left, I got some great barrels here but it's super shallow and has fire coral which really does burn.
- Sandy Lane - Nice easy reef/sand break, can get a bit crowded.

On the South East side:

- Freights - A great long easy left hander, great for longboarding.
- South Point - Ditto... can get a bit windy.

PM me and I'll scan you the map; you'll have a great trip if you get good waves.  The Bajans are really great people and the atmosphere is fantastic...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2007, 10:40:40 pm
Going out after valintines day, kind of with all the Newquay nutters, so its proberbly party party, keen to scope out some bouldering, then hopefully of to Shri Lanka, you know any climbing around Barbie... only going for three weeks, so could possibly meet up? you are welcome to come down here and hook up... stay tuned to us would be good to see you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2007, 10:43:24 pm
PS, my chicks been here 19 times, and the winter family are looking after us so should be well looked after...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 24, 2007, 04:49:15 pm

Plastic type 'short' longboard, pretty indestructible, reasonable easy to stand on, quite cheap, hence gets a bad reputation for being a punters board.

Without generalising, as I am sure there are some competent Bic riders, but the fact that they are indestructable is a good reason why they get a bit of a bad reputation. They are often ridden by less competent surfers ( I'm loathe to use the word punter) who occasionally bail the board when paddling out, drop in, or generally get in the way, often resulting in more chance of injury or damage to conventional boards, due to their heavier and more robust nature.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 24, 2007, 06:42:49 pm
PS, my chicks been here 19 times, and the winter family are looking after us so should be well looked after...

I've bumped into Russel, his brother and a couple of the Irish mates out there a couple of years back..

Your chick must be wadded if she's been out there 19 times!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 25, 2007, 05:37:55 pm
Nah, just old, ha ha. They all go out there on trade, business. having trouble booking for the wedding, who have you booked with? belive its the cricket putting up the prices, will be keen to meet up...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 27, 2007, 11:21:13 am
very nice session yesterday, a couple of feet, super clean, and two hours in the water with no booties. (one finger turned very white, though). i have to say that the money i invested in the new board is some of the best spent money in my life. it turns and speeds, and makes me happy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on January 28, 2007, 06:02:50 am
No self respecting surfer would still ride a Bic, fair play if you are learning, saving on dings etc, but as soon as you can take off and have started to be able to turn on a wave a Bic (even the shortboard versions) are pretty damn shyte. You would surely have to be seriously poor not to buy a normal board and have twice the speed on a wave. (I am sure Slater et al would have about 5 times my speed on a Bic though!!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 29, 2007, 08:08:12 am
very nice session yesterday, a couple of feet, super clean, and two hours in the water with no booties. (one finger turned very white, though). i have to say that the money i invested in the new board is some of the best spent money in my life. it turns and speeds, and makes me happy.

I'm still coming to terms with my new one. Went out for a brief session in Aberdeen on Saturday afternoon. Waves were huge and heavy. Duckdiving a lot easier, but soon learnt that messy but functional popping up, while fine for my minimal is definitely not good enough for the fish. Also that I need to wax it a lot more.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 29, 2007, 07:29:50 pm
Guys when you are done beting my sorry punter ass into the ground :spank:...do you have a wetsuit recommendation?  i am skinny but tall - consequently my current realy shagged cheap and very cold 3x2 has a wierd baggy bit round the waist which fills up with water.  The skinny frame also means i get really cold really fast.  should i go elasto or just steamer myself up in 6x4?  Probably willing to go up to £200...and mooch around the sales a bit too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 29, 2007, 08:18:26 pm
i cannot recommend anything in particular, cos i still have a beefy 5-4-3 that found for cheap in rome, but i think you should consider a few things.
- you like surfing
- you want to surf and have fun
- if you freeze you cannot surf nor have fun

so i think that its good to spend all the money you can in the best and most durable wetsuit you can have.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2007, 07:40:21 am
clm, I am a similar build to you, and I have a 5/3 Gul I bought about 5 years ago that's still going strong. I've hear they have gone downhill since then though. I've heard good things about the excel wetsuits. I don't think you need anything thicker than 5/3, I surf mostly in NE scotland and only ever get cold hands and feet, when using mine with one of the C-Skin Hooded Rash Vests, which I highly recommend.

Unfortunately the only way to check for a good fit is to try them on. A good tip is to keep your scoks on when trying on wetsuits, makes them a lot easier to get on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 30, 2007, 09:33:09 am
I recon you need some thing like this (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=1&Product_Code=FIRE53&Category_Code=W2)

Obviously you need to try it on but recent modern suits are really stretchy compared to cheaper old ones, either that or you need to hang around with Jim some more.  ;)

Are you keen for a winter/spring trip west? I haven't been in the water for months!  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 30, 2007, 08:03:16 pm
Definately, not been out on my bic for a long time...
(http://www.croyde-surf-cam.com/xs-boards/bic73tube.jpg)
and could do with getting back to abersoch...
(http://www.bicsportna.com/new/images/girl_surfer.jpg)
doh, wait a minute...that was the bic daydream...
i meant abersoch...
(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/daily_photos/cilan.jpg)...flat again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2007, 10:24:58 am
Clm, what you need to keep warm is some body fat.
I may be up for providing some hospitality in Lleyn sometime soon, missing the sea.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 31, 2007, 04:16:43 pm
Went off yesterday, clean and mean. looking foward to no wetsuit warmth...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 31, 2007, 06:50:16 pm
Blimey - seem to have posted a daily webcam.  was flat when i posted it - bit bigger today.
Shes got nice bics hasnt she.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 01, 2007, 08:47:00 pm
Pleased with this shot.  Lines coming in from a great height.  And if you read this today (1st) look at how clean hells mouth is (scroll up a bit)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/132/376775688_7933217c81.jpg?v=0)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2007, 07:44:52 am
Actually someone on a wave (2nd). East Coast looks pretty gash again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 02, 2007, 09:38:34 am
(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/daily_photos/rhiw.jpg) Yummy!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2007, 09:52:30 am
Quote
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/132/376775688_7933217c81.jpg?v=0)
Like your thinking there
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/adamlong/gallery/landscape/uk/neigwl.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2007, 10:16:41 am
Swell lines like you (almost) never see on the East Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 02, 2007, 08:09:11 pm
Looks nice at The Mouth for tomorrow, smallish swell but with a very long period. If it wasn't such a good forecast in the Peak (... and I wasn't going to Barbados for two whole weeks at the end of the month  :great:) I'd be doing an early one and heading over.

Nice pic's - you can see my mates house on Callums shot.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: whispering nic on February 02, 2007, 11:59:43 pm
MMM.. long workable rides, like a good wooooman.

I'm really just getting my 50th post so I can wreak some Karma :guilty:

There's a fine reef break just south of Torness nuke station, waters always warm..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 07, 2007, 04:27:54 pm
Oh dear, another snapped leash. got rescued again during the most advanced session ever...
perfect 2ft Fistral point breaks, the best wave i have ever seen...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 08, 2007, 11:37:23 pm
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/fallenangelkatey/pat1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/fallenangelkatey/pat2.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 09, 2007, 02:50:09 am
alright, old and new. will try and get some recent additions from the big days that have occurred.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 09, 2007, 11:37:16 am
 :o no booties!!!!! :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 09, 2007, 12:57:47 pm
I seem to remember he asked for some for xmas but got a scissor sisters cd instead.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 10, 2007, 08:29:02 am
That soon became a coulorfull frisbee...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2007, 09:03:21 am

There's a fine reef break just south of Torness nuke station, waters always warm..

Similar to St Cyrus. Doesn't ,ean I'm going to surf there. Don't want to end up a Jaffa.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 15, 2007, 08:43:36 am
Looking good for Nth Wales tomorrow and Saturday - I'll be up from tomorrow morning through to Sat evening.  PM me if anyone is around...

B
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 22, 2007, 05:40:35 pm
It was really good last Friday/Sat... surfed a secret spot on the Nth Coast all to myself in between work phone calls and Blackberry action in the car.  Saturday morning dawned and Ceriad was looking heavy and we watched some boogers getting nailed so we stood around talking a good story but not getting in.  Checked a couple of secret spots but the swell wasn't getting in right... Ended up at The Corner on the dropping tide and it was perfect; just me, Dave (the RSPB warden) and a French dude in perfect 4-6ft Lefthanders..

I'm super psyched for surfing with a trip coming up so I might get up early tomorrow for another day in Wales.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 22, 2007, 06:44:54 pm
The Cribbar has been going well sources inform me, the swell rating must be big, out here its force 8 winds and almost pitching,.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 22, 2007, 07:26:50 pm
i just watched "riding giants", and the last greg noll interview brought a few tears to my eyes.
to see a man that big and tough almost cry in front of the camera is something that really touched me.
ahh, we romantic surfers... :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 04:02:22 pm
Its funny, I totally cry when i watch dog town and Z boys, the super 8 footage of Jay Adams straight lining that big hill crouched up, he is actually going to fast for the film and you get color trailbacks from the Californian light.... Celluloid acid man...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 04:06:14 pm
I have also been reading "Eddie would go" the story of Eddie Akiau, this is truly the story of a great man, this has inspired me to become a better person out of the water as much as in. many tears were spent reading this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2007, 04:33:23 pm
eddie would go is an amazing story and he must have been a grat man.
inspirational for sure.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 05:07:58 pm
My next read is Nat is Nat and thats that!
story of Nat Young!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2007, 05:17:25 pm
<Namedrop alert..>

Unfortunately, Jay Adams is a total c*ck in real life.. I've bumped into him in Santa Monica with my California pal and I was distinctly unimpressed.

Peggi Oki is not a bad climber - she can often be seen in Yosemite and Joshua Tree.  She also paints great pictures...

Also, I had the great fortune to skate with TA, Natas and Bill Danforth in the 80's when there was an Alva Skates tour in Manchester - we drank beer and skated the Medical School banks - how cool was that for a 17 year old FD.. I was starstruck.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2007, 05:26:50 pm
Surfing books...

The best one IMHO by a long chalk is 'Caught Inside' by Dan Duane (an ex-Yosemite YOSAR and big-wall vet) about a year on the Northern California Coast - it's well worth seeking out and has a climbers perspective too.

"Nats that" is a great read but I reckon Rabbits 'Bustin down the door' is better and has more surfing in it - Nat Young was on the beach last time I was in Barbados but he had a really grumpy look about him so I didn't go and say hello.

An English guy called Andy Martin wrote a great book called 'Walking on Water' a number of years ago about his stay in Hawaii that's really interesting from an UK perspective - he's got a new book coming out on the rivalry between Kenny Bradshaw and Mark Foo that ought to be very good.

Finally, you can't go wrong with back issues of The Surfers Journal - the reader supported quarterly.  I have a full back catalogue that's an incredibly valuable historical resource.

Nibs re: Riding Giants - By a strange coincidence, one of my old housemates (who Andy Popp used to teach) went out with (i.e. shagged for a summer) Alex Cooke; the guy who surfed the biggest wave out of the helicopter before the whole tow-in thing started - he has a small feature in Riding Giants...

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2007, 05:58:22 pm
Just curious, have either of you seen Litmus and Glass Love? Andrew Kidmans films... If not, you should as they are both right up your street...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2007, 06:16:08 pm
i love litmus.
i got it as a gift for my "the surfers path" subscription.
the derek hynd footage is amazing, pure poetry.
big big ups.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 07:26:53 pm
Alright, you got your hook ups down!
Think Peggi Oki used to hang out at Star Ave, in J tree when i was there, my girlfriend knew her quite well and she would of definitly of known Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon.
Will not be seeing you in Barbados, looks like Russells wedding will not be forgotten, kind of thankfull we did not go, Its been total chaos there for the last 6 weeks and i do not like going to paradise and gettin fucked up, which if you are living in the gun club, you would have for breakfast every morning! hope you have a good one.
Thanks for the reads, going away for a while and have allready orderd caught inside...
was reading about rabbits epic during his visit to Hawaii, Heavy.
Keep tuned, wanting to visit Ireland over the summer, will try and coincide.
Hey Nibbles, seen some footage of Sardinian Surf, is that where you live? have climbed there but was unaweres of the Liquid potential.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2007, 07:38:18 pm
hey idol,
unfortunately, surf wise, i dont live in sardinia, but go there almost every year for some surf.
many places are overcrowded and generally not worth cos of really bad vibes around, but at least as much places (if not more) are still available for nice sessions!!!
also, sport climbing is world class.
if youre about to ask why i dont move there, the answer is the lack of bouldering. they say...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 24, 2007, 07:38:56 am
Capo Testa is really good, other places such as Orani and the central region are alright, but routes in the Supramonte is the fucking shit... Punta Giraldilli is my favorite crag, trying to tie up possibility of going after Sri Lanka, done Wolfgang Gulich, 7A 400mts, this trip want to do Angelo Blu, and Mediteranio. where do you live.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 24, 2007, 10:07:02 pm
come down for a session.
september is perfect, any NW swell that comes in from the south of france. the more onshore the better here.
ahh i cant wait.

theres one spot where the sea has carved a natural arch in the rock. the swell comes in, almost fill the arch (8-9 meters high) and you are there for the takeoff. as the wave exit the arch, founds deep water and gets down to 2 meters, and spits you out. you surf and find yourself again in cal deep water in the inside of the small gulf, ready for the next ride. adrenaline.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 25, 2007, 10:46:49 pm
ahhh today was GOOD.
you never know until you go.

waited in the water for half an hour with few waves, but the wind had already dropped and when the sets came in i was super trimmed. one of the smoothest sessions ive ever had, really in tune. im happy!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 04, 2007, 09:56:42 am
Sounds great Nibs.. patience with surfing will often yield great rewards.

I'm off to Barbados for 13 days tomorrow.. plenty of trade swell forecast with a southerly and northerly pulse for mid and the back end of the week.  Packed a couple of boards up yesterday.. the 6'3 Quad/Fish for fun and speed and the 6'10 Widowmaker  2+1 for the heavy waves.  No suit, just boardies and sun screen... Can't wait to sip that first cold Banks under a palm tree after a few waves at Soup Bowls on Monday evening..  :beer1:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on March 04, 2007, 10:25:59 pm
hey have a good holiday!!!
today was super good also: its fucking full spring time down here. more like may. warmest winter ever.
lines and lines coming in, the whole day in the sun. my face is burning, my feet are cut and full of urchin needles, but its been a great day.
there were also FOUR girls in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on March 07, 2007, 06:38:13 pm
Can't wait to sip that first cold Banks under a palm tree after a few waves at Soup Bowls on Monday evening..  :beer1:

Nice! I linke Banks's bitter too, didn't know you could get a pint in Barbados mind... every cloud has a silver lining eh FD?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 11, 2007, 04:36:45 pm
Yeah baby, Sri Lanka is pumping too, no more wetsuits.... just sun burn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2007, 01:42:21 pm
I read "Riding the Magic Carpet" recently. nothing insightful, just a nice story about an average guy fulfilling his surfing dreams.

Spring Sessions are arriving in Scotland, but I think I have a cracked rib from stacking when snowboarding.

Idol Eyes, if you have some spare time next time you are in Aberdeen, and fancy a wave or two, get in touch. I have a spare board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 15, 2007, 02:47:04 pm
Looks like next week may be a wild one for the East Coast. Seek sheltered spots!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 19, 2007, 05:38:33 am
Ha Ha, totally had my board ripped again today, surfing Bennys on the low, got wacked on a set wave, out on my own and took a the rest of the set on my head. fairly far out, got my head down and learned to swim in major rip, fucking having it... got to my board before the rescue team got wet. my chick had a seizure. got longboarding down.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 19, 2007, 04:15:35 pm
Got back from Barbados yesterday afternoon... 18 hours earlier I'd been wearing boardshorts and sunscreen in 20 degree water with turtles and I found myself in the Sunday evening twilight in Ron Hills and a cagoule running up Eccles Pike with the dog into the teeth of a blizzard..

Had a great trip, surfed at least twice a day for 12 days and did the whole holiday thing with Mrs FD.  Got Soup Bowls and Parlours at 6-8ft for four days with (rare) light winds.. a few gusty/choppy 3-4ft sessions at South Point & Brandons, a couple of very nice and super clean head-high days at Mullins on the Caribean coast and then a final week of choppy but powerful head-high surf at Soup Bowls and Parlours.  I now have enourmous lats and shoulders, a very brown face, lots of reef cuts and urchin spine dots, great cardio fitness and no finger strength but who cares... that'll come back quick enough.  I also saw loads of giant leather back turtles close by nearly every time I paddled out which was very exciting.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2007, 12:40:50 pm
On a different level, managed first dawnie of the year this morning. In water by 7:30 (would have been earlier if I hadn't grabbed rowie's glove (XS) out of box before heading down to water. Then went back to car and swapped them for what i thought were my pair, but were actually her other one and mine). Bit big and messy, but starting to feel love for new board. Not too bad in the water, but cold getting changed and I put off getting out as long as possible in hope it would warm up a bit (it didn't).

Good to get one in before clocks changed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 23, 2007, 09:41:20 am
Another snapped leash! For fucksake! nice one Falling Down! we have five more sessions, then back to grey skysand 5\3 wet suits. Will try to hook up...
SA, get your arse down west... see you soon
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 26, 2007, 07:11:48 pm
Got another session in the evening after the morning session. Two sessions in one day on a work day; not bad. Was much smaller and cleaner, we got out as it was getting dark, and it pissed down on us.

Quote
SA, get your arse down west... see you soon

It's spring! Suumer is not the time to be in the SW, I spent two years fighting hoards in the water, sloppy waves, posers on the beach, no thanks. Quiet Scottish Breaks all summer long.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 27, 2007, 11:27:05 am
No, south coast reef madness,,, Is Thurso worth a visit
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 27, 2007, 11:40:57 am
No, south coast reef madness,,, Is Thurso worth a visit

Always. I'm not good enough though for it though. Sandwood Bay and Oldshoremore are fantastic mind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 04, 2007, 09:22:52 pm
Head east for the weekend people! Looks to be epic (hope I haven't cursed it).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 05, 2007, 08:26:10 pm
Aye 'tis looking pretty good.. not too big, looong period and perfect winds.

I was planning my trad comeback this weekend but now I'm not so sure    :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 06, 2007, 10:04:44 am
Just had dawnie. Bit messy but the occasional clean set came through. Sadly I was never in position to make the most of them. Another session tonight.

Leave the trad til next week fd, the rock will always be there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on April 07, 2007, 09:16:53 pm
It looked good at Flamborough head this afternoon- I saw a few folk out on smallish waves but the sets were coming in regular and it wasn't too messy. Looked to be the longboards catching the rides though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 09, 2007, 08:07:07 am
They always do on small waves.

Had a before work session on Friday, then a post work one, Saturday morning long session and a Sunday morning session. My arms are wasted!. Had to get out on bike on Sunday afternoon, as my arms were too wasted to pull on anything. Most consistent spell in Aberdeen for a long time, guess that's it until Autumn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 09, 2007, 12:29:39 pm
Aye 'tis looking pretty good.. not too big, looong period and perfect winds.

I was planning my trad comeback this weekend but now I'm not so sure    :-\

I've been ill since Friday  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 09, 2007, 10:09:19 pm
Yeah, well ive been sick too, really ill after getting back. Air port virus.... throat, fucking latent drowning, WE, and perfect 1ft waves.... long boarding all day,,,, travelled to S L, only to recive perfection on home soil.... Bank holliday WE,,,, Totally fucked up on every ting, later vibes....
PS, in a room full of Long board advocates, laughing at the "small wave" comment, no names...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 21, 2007, 09:32:43 am
Had a great day yesterday on the North Yorkshire Coast with Oldfella, Heinrik Ellis & Property tycoon/full time surfer Moffat.  Started the day at an undisclosed location and had a good hour to ourselves, overhead and a little choppy, the conditions were somewhat challending - it took me and Ellis a good half hour of late drops and hideous wipeouts before we dialled in and I was rewarded with a big open left hander that walled up and gave some room for manouvers.

We grabbed some lunch and returned to the same spot.  On my first wave I blew the drop and got so nailed I spent the next half hour puking my guts out in the channel.  Not many waves were ridded as the rip was hideous and the lineup was shifting everywhere. The hot showers of Cayton Bay tempted us and we surfed overhead pumphouse for a couple of hours in the evening.  I got a screamer all the way to the pumphouse wall to find exit options limited and with Oldfella behind me we resorted to climbing the pumphouse wall and 4b slab manouvers between hanging on with finger tips as the waves surged up the slab.

I'm shagged today & covered in very nasty bruises...  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2007, 11:14:55 am
Wierd, it was pish at Aberdeen. Pish again today.

Sounds epic tho.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on April 21, 2007, 01:12:06 pm
Apparently this is off county cork :o :o :o :o :o :o :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw:

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/22060.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 21, 2007, 09:56:52 pm
6-8Ft on monday.... North Fistral will be on fire.
Its been clean for the last few sessions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 23, 2007, 02:50:17 pm
guts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87mDHSez6AE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87mDHSez6AE)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 30, 2007, 11:59:41 am
Good find Nibs..... very impressive surfing from the North Shore pioneers. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2007, 09:03:56 am
Hendo got some good pics from the Scottish Open, hopefully he will post them here. We went two days too late, it's like a millpond at the moment.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Hendo on May 01, 2007, 09:36:38 am
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/180/479621958_e28e55ab72.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/186/479621960_77085a8b26.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/186/479621962_55dbed3f5f.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/217/479621972_b825469aaf.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/206/479621974_0a8c9be4b0.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Hendo on May 01, 2007, 11:08:01 am
Probably been posted before http://www.dreamcatcherproductions.ie/film1.html
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 01, 2007, 11:25:06 am
Nice pics Hendo... are these of the final ?  It's amazing how the bowl at Brimms just sucks up any swell in the area.

I had a nice session at Hells Mouth on Saturday evening - I didn't expect anything but took the Mal down to paddle to Cilan and back with a mate but we found a small swell breaking over the reef and we traded lovely little waist high glassy peelers on our logs until the sun set.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Hendo on May 01, 2007, 12:05:28 pm
They are pics of the last Quarter, sat through the 1st 20 mins of the 1st Semi without anyone taking a wave, and I was too hungry and hungover to stay any longer.

Quite an amazing place, how the wave just pops up and drives you towards the rocks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2007, 01:47:06 pm
Quite amusing pic of how to deal with goatboaters dropping in;

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/22722.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 03, 2007, 07:47:14 pm
Its been quite a week down in Cornwall, very clean offshore swells for the last few sessions. now up in Scotland and tis trashy... just watched Longer, the film of Joel Tudor, fully recommend it to all Loggers.
Reading Surf Rage, Nat Young,,,
Relates to the images installed, these play boaters are fucking ugly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2007, 08:08:53 am
Where in Ecosse are you? We drove up to NW on the weekend on the hope of catchign the leftover swell, but missed it. North Sea flatness for the short term future, mught be needing to make evening drives to Banff, can't be doing with another waveless summer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 04, 2007, 12:57:53 pm
I mobilised today, on the Forties Alpha...
was around Abo for a couple of days, but was in meetings, so could not get wet, might try on the return.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2007, 02:20:52 pm
It's been pish on the east coast for a couple of weeks now. Apparently Moray Coast has had a bit. Might be OK next week, if winds behave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 07, 2007, 10:43:05 pm
Good stuff at Hell's Mouth today. Yesterday was small but worthwhile, today was bigger but a bit blown out. Still fun though. CLM has new wettie and has learnt the concept of not being cold in UK water.  :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on May 08, 2007, 01:45:59 am
Not being cold in UK water - Im not sure such a concept existed...  ;) I dont even go in the water here in the winter - tho admittidly is often warmer than the air!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 09, 2007, 07:23:49 pm
hes not wrong...the 10 minute skinny man managed 2 hours in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 10, 2007, 09:00:12 am
Come to NE Scotland to really put it to the test. Still needed hooded rashie, boot and gloves last night.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 14, 2007, 09:03:01 pm
Erm, where are the photos of me gone...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 21, 2007, 10:04:42 am
Up at Banff yesterday. Small waves (1-2ft) so borrowed one of the new lightweight epoxy Take Off Longboards. Never had a go on a longboard before, great fun. Not sure if it was the lightweightness, or the length (9ft 6), but was catching some great rides on small waves, and even managed to do one of the turns when you get the nose up and swing it round? Sun even made an appearance, so managed to get hood off for a while.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 22, 2007, 12:55:56 pm
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 22, 2007, 12:58:16 pm
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)

When in Summer? Late summer and SW France will be firing. In particular, Hossegor.....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 22, 2007, 01:14:28 pm
Also heaving in french Hols.

Portugal? Lewis will be deserted, as always. Tempted by an August trip.

Get Stormrider's Europe.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 22, 2007, 05:39:49 pm
You could get lucky in Ireland, but probably not.

Leave it a bit later and Morroco will be pumping......

As Chris says, Portugal, amazing pretty quiet waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 22, 2007, 08:14:06 pm
Hmm, going to France in Sept, thinking for the next few weeks! got some time and need some direction, northern Spain might produce, got the low pressure guide, but looking for something different, Longboard (2-4ft).
Morocco could be the one, or back to Sri Lanka, Aragum Bay, but being advised not to go there as there is escalating violence. must spray about the rock climbing here at some point, it really is worth going to,,, got some 3 star venues to direct you crazy rock cats to...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2007, 07:49:53 am
Well Ireland and the Hebrides look to be producing for the short term future. Bit onshore, but you could find some sheltered spots. Stormriders is a bit scanty on info for Hebrides, I think the little wave finder guide is a bit more useful.

I thought you were lookign for Europe venues, or has the lack of job made you want to look further afield?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 23, 2007, 08:23:29 am
Really have not got a clue? just want some freedom... somewhere, anywhere...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2007, 08:32:53 am
If you have got wheels, get a ferry over to ireland, or drive up to NW Scotland before midgies get too intense. Option of ferry to Hebrides from Skye or Ullapool, either with car from either or foot passenger to Stornaway.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 27, 2007, 09:14:20 am
Dawnie!

Waves OK,bit messy but caught a couple of great rides. Hopefully clean up by tonight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 27, 2007, 12:46:37 pm
Nice one - I'm in Houston getting a mauling from my boss and wishing I was at home going surfing!

Ben

- Just booked an Indo boat trip for next May, this time to the Banyaks and Simulue islands... I'll send links and pics once I have them from the boat operator.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 27, 2007, 02:19:05 pm
I'd rather you didn't!

Lets hope the Outer Hebrides offer up fine swells, warm weather, but enough breeze to keep midgies at bay.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 02, 2007, 10:48:13 pm
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)
anywher below that big line that goes around the globe.
south africa, if you don't mind noahs.
maldives, if you're minted like falling down.
Australia, if you have 3 months to spare.
maybe even srilanka.
Indo with out saying........
try the canaries. i went mid summer and surfed everyday at least twice a day for 2 weeks. you wont get that anywhere in th uk at any given time of the year. especially in boardies.
some of these venues will cost less than those euro reccomemdations if you think and prepare well enough.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2007, 10:04:38 am
First day of summer here yesterday. Cloudless skies, clean waves at Banff, comfortable in summer rash vest and no gloves. Not often you have to dodge people swimming in Scotland. Managed to ride half a dozen rights and a couple of lefts, just as a reminder that I don't totally suck, it's just Aberdeen is really difficult to ride well.

Highlight of my surfing career though was when one of the kids getting a lesson with the surf club said "Wow, you're really ace!".

Nice kid, will go far in life.

Total pish weather today again though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 17, 2007, 05:31:54 pm
Garret McNamara surfing glacier 'tsunami' waves..

http://www.bbc.co.uk/mediaselector/check/player/nol/newsid_6950000/newsid_6951400?redirect=6951440.stm&news=1&nbram=1&nbwm=1&bbwm=1&bbram=1&asb=1

Irony isn't the right word but there's something not quite about using jet-ski's to surf these waves whilst dodging the evidence of global warming..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: erm, sam on August 18, 2007, 12:07:19 am
It could almost be joke - how exteme can an extreme sport be. "Freaking glacier waves man"
I think they should get a life and stop scrapeing the barrel for things to do. Get a job or something. Go visit your mother. Do anything except surf stupid glacier waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 18, 2007, 07:46:35 am
Off to the Lleyn now - might get a decent wave at Ceriad this teatime when the wind shifts southerly.... (fingers x'ed)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2007, 03:49:16 pm
Good week, full report will follow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 20, 2007, 10:25:04 am
Drove through a deluge of biblical proportions along the A5 on Saturday morning.  A stroll along Abersoch beach at lunchtime with the dog and my nephews saw the wind shifting from a howling southerly to breezy Westerly.  Not perfect conditions, but the visible lines of swell marching along the sides of the Tudwalls islands confirmed the presence of a groundswell coming into Cardigan.  Later that afternoon I surfed a local place on the dropping tide.  Windy and choppy but with some size and power.

Overnight the wind shifted to a north westerly, perfect conditions for the south facing spots.  The swell had cleaned up considerably and I spent nearly four hours in the water with a handful of local friends and acquaintances.  This spot is such a special place on days like these.  Bobbing below the cliffs in clear green water with well shaped shoulder to head high peaks coming through and getting good waves.  The birds were very active, Sandwich terns diving amongst us to collect fish, Guillemots paddling around like penguins, young cormorants learning to fish and Choughs skriking overhead fighting with the Gulls.  It felt too Autumnal for Summer even though the sea was warm.  I drove home tired and contented and slept like a log last night.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 20, 2007, 12:06:11 pm
Sounds like a crackin sesh.
I have just ordered me an Al Merrick, picking it up in Hossegor next week, oh should be fun...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2007, 12:45:11 pm
I think FD has an Al Merrick? Anyhow, we had all sorts of weather for the week, from howling onshores and horizontal rain to blue skies. Got in water every day we were on N Uist, although there were a couple of days when I wouldn't have bothered if I had been at home. Friday was probably my best day surfing ever; went to "a beach near Hosta" that was clean and about 6 foot in the morning. Got out back and got on a handful of big rights and a fantastic left that I was really pleased about. By late afternoon it had dropped to about 4 foot, and I bagged a dozen or so fantastic rides before my paddling power gave in. In the process of gathering photos at the moment, will post some soon.

Great trip, definitely worth getting over there. I think there is talk of reducing ferry fees soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 20, 2007, 01:02:57 pm
>I think FD has an Al Merrick?

Nope...  Lots of boards but no Al Merricks.  Glad to hear you had a good trip Chris and looking forward to seeing the photo's. Did you get out on your big fish?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2007, 01:56:01 pm
Did you get out on your big fish?

Had one good afternoon session on it, but left it at the tent one day when I really could have done with it.

I thought you bought an Al Merrick from Granite Reef when you were up here?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 20, 2007, 02:05:36 pm
Going away,,,
got the van racked for a three monther, france, spain, portugal and morocco.
Just compleated the quiver,
9.0 plank
9.4 freedom
9.6 stuart hydrohull ***
9.4 stuart hydrohull***
7.0 nine plus magic carpet (to be arranged)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2007, 02:33:04 pm

9.4 freedom
9.6 stuart hydrohull ***
9.4 stuart hydrohull***

Combined, do these make up a trimaran?

Good luck with the trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 20, 2007, 02:37:01 pm
I thought you bought an Al Merrick from Granite Reef when you were up here?

Nope it was a Rob Vaughan 6'6" Rounded Pin with a bit of volume.. goes well when there's some juice and it's head high plus.

Idol Eyes - Have a fantastic trip.. needless to say I am extremely jealous indeed. You picked the right time of year for a Euro tour.  If you're in the Rodilles area keep your eyes peeled for Richie Patter...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2007, 04:16:53 pm
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v121/154/67/689146086/n689146086_252602_5187.jpg)

End of morning session on Friday. Was actually a bit brighter than it looks in photo
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 22, 2007, 04:58:58 pm
Yeah... Its total dog shit here at the mo... last sat was v good. going to be going via Rosscoff, would like to meet up with patta and mary...
Just looked at a tunnel vision 10.0 traditional single fin. the last blank from Clark foam... £899.00
its on hold.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 30, 2007, 04:19:17 pm
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v112/134/40/553261365/n553261365_262614_712.jpg)

My moment of madness on the trip. Just to prove it is possible in Scotland. Put wetsuit back on after 2 waves though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on August 31, 2007, 06:18:01 pm
something snapped inside my knee at hossegor last monday - going to the docs to find out what on tuesday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 02, 2007, 02:44:19 am
Well been in Australia 2 weeks. Bought a van and a board. Ill try and post some wave pics up soon....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2007, 08:17:49 am
Bad news clm. Doesn't sound great. Hope you get some good waves Adam, Will hopefully be there this time next year.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 03, 2007, 05:35:20 pm
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaargggghhhhhhhh!  Well like minded folks, we are currently experiencing a flat spell in the South West.

Last decent surf was Sat 18th August on the Exmoor coast, a high tide reef that peaks with way better lefts than rights.  Conditions and tides came together for the evening, only 5 of us were onto the charts enough to suss this session out.  Got in on my own, in choppy conditions with onshore NW's then, 1 more came in still choppy, I stated that the wind was due to drop about now and right on cue.. just as the tide was up onto the reef to make the peak work properly it did indeed drop!  3 more came in and that was it!  3 to 4 ft glassy perfection from 7.30pm until dark with just 5 peeps in during the height of summer..... Sweet..

The only problem with the above is that now it's been flat for weeks, I had a week off camping down in Kernow and didn't surf due to the crapiness of the waves.  That one session has me amped up for more but mother nature is not coming up with the goods...  Somebody tell me there's some swell on the way, sometime soon???  I might have to go bouldering at this rate!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 06, 2007, 01:27:17 pm
Its too fucking much, the only relief was surfstock... what a party, another this W.E. going to Sennen now... trying to see the light, but all forecasts are flatlineing. taken three weeks of work, for nothing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 06, 2007, 06:09:40 pm
Dude!  I am feeling for you...  Was down Porthleven way during Surfstock weekend and ended up going to a different party in middle of nowhere.. There was a mad and v. talented funk jazz band playing! Corking night..  Meanwhile there was a Cowboys and Indians party up Wadebridge way which was apparently kicking too.  The party scene down in Kernow is excellent this time of year, lots of end of season celebrations and post harvest farmers letting off steam..  You couldn't have picked a worse time or place to chase the surf though......  Think Ireland and Scotland are hitting some swell at the moment... tempted to bail but work won't allow!   Still hurricane season is upon us and if this high stops blocking out storm systems, one of those little beauties is going to track across the atlantic and light up our coast.  I live in hope..  In the meantime... have been bouldering at Godrevy and Exmoor Coast..  Godrevy is deffo worth a visit if you're in Cornwall and the Exmoor Coast is our best kept secret up here in North Devon.  I'll put an offering out to Huey for you! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2007, 06:38:09 pm
I wouldn't rush up here or far north. Apparently onshores for NW, flat in east. At least got an OK (for Abz) session on Tuesday, and might be more ealry next week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 07, 2007, 09:30:13 am
Looks like the East Coast will get another pulse of swell Tuesday and Wednesday next week as per this week.  Unfortunately I'm stacked up with work again so haven't got wet either for a few weeks.  I'm hopeful for my week long Ireland trip in October though....

If anyone is interested (and wants to make themselves feel sick with jealousy) here's a slide show from a recent boat trip http://www.kalegray.com/  (http://www.kalegray.com/) to the Banyaks.  We're going on the same boat to the same place next May... looks nice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 07, 2007, 11:16:33 am
 :jaw:  Looks sick!  However, this has now just added to my mental anguish!  :wall:
Being a goofy footer, I was begining to worry that you didn't get any lefts out there at all!  Nice to see the regulars finally had to get on your back hand for a bit! 

The charts are not looking favourable at all for the next week...  This is not what supposed to happen in September... All the grockles are supposed to go back to their land locked existence safe and out of the way!  Then hurricane season sends the lows across the pond allowing us all to enjoy warm water and pumping waves!  I can't remember a flat spell like this in the South West.  There's not even any onshore dribble to surf.  :furious:

Still it's been dry and warm for 2 weeks...  Going bouldering later and getting stronger due to lack of distractions such as surfing....... 

In the meantime here's what we're waiting for 'Lyndaka' in perfection machine mode!

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=2441
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 07, 2007, 11:30:26 am
Just to clarify, that wasn't us on the boat trip.  We're going next year.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 10, 2007, 10:27:35 am
Well lets hope you all don't end up like the chap who paid his skin tax then.......... it's supposed to be a nightmare to get wounds to heal in that environment.  Also hope the waves are that good for you...

South West conditions update >............... going bouldering........ again!   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2007, 11:09:14 am

South West conditions update >............... going bouldering........ again!   

NE conditions; forecast charts show what looks like a slice of onion passing just north of UK later in week. I hope they are right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 10, 2007, 01:39:45 pm
Tis Monday, going to sennen, still flat...
can not wait to bail...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 10, 2007, 02:09:47 pm
Been a solid 4/5ft last couple of days over here. Pitty i couldnt get in though as i was riding a plank in very average snow, even by Australian standards!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 10, 2007, 02:53:24 pm
it's supposed to be a nightmare to get wounds to heal in that environment.  Also hope the waves are that good for you...

It's OK if you treat them well - we had a Mentawai boat trip four years back and sustained lots of reef cuts.  Just dress them every day and they heal up alright.

The East Coast is looking mighty fine for the weekend - I'll be up in Yorkshire somewhere....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 11, 2007, 05:28:57 pm
Apparently it is 3 to 4ft and clean on the east coast today....... you lucky, lucky...
Still stuck in N. Devon with extreme flatness extending far into the future..  It has been wall to wall sunshine for 3 weeks now... No sign of this high pressure system letting go for a while yet.  If it's flat at Sennen it's game over for the whole of Devon and Cornwall.
Could be worthwile bailing to the East coast this weekend, look out their is a 'pasty' invasion on the way, there are lots of desperate So' Westers that'll be on it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 12, 2007, 08:19:27 am
Wasn't in Aberdeen. Too much west to hit us. flatter than a kipper's cock. Hopes now pinned on weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 12, 2007, 03:14:57 pm
flatter than a kipper's cock

 :lol:  couldn't have put it better.......   the good news is according to Metcheck the high pressure system's days are numbered and winter is on the way! Joy!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 13, 2007, 10:04:38 am
It certainly feels like things are changing.  The weekend and early next week could get very good on the East Coast. I'll be heading somewhere quiet as I imagine every surf starved individual with a car will be descending on Yorkshire and further North this weekend. 

On a more somber note, it looks like the earthquakes yesteday and this morning have killed a few people in Sumatra and damaged a fair amout of infrastructure.  www.surfaidinternational.org  (http://www.surfaidinternational.org) who are a local surfer supported aid agency had the following on their website. 

"It was a big one - 7.9 (now 8.2).  Praem and the team at Tuapejat (in the Mentawai Islands) went to higher ground in case of a tsunami.  No reports of casualties or damage there from her early text message.  Bart (SurfAid's Indonesian Country Director) also spoke to the Nias team and all OK there.  But I was just speaking to Bart  - it's now 11.30pm and the quake happened a bit after 6pm, just before dark - and he's heard a 6.6 aftershock has been centred near Sikakap (S. Mentawai) and reports of damage around the harbour.

But it's night so we won't know until the morning.  Communications are very difficult as you'd imagine - difficult at best of times out there.

We just got power on in my house/office in Padang after five hours.
 
We were all in the office about 6.10pm or so - Ad, Sabar, Wahidah, Flor and Santi - and it started to shake, just a tremble at first, and then got stronger.  Everyone ran onto the road outside and it started rolling like a snake, up and down, and cars rocking side to side as though people were pushing them, and the big electricity tower behind was swaying ... a wind chime in my house was still swinging side to side after I came back in when it settled down.  And after it, it felt like that feeling you have when you get off a boat, that swaying motion where your equilibrium is a bit off.
 
Locals said it was a big one for Padang.  A few of my neighbours are pretty rattled."

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 14, 2007, 09:01:24 am
Granticus and Idol Eyes - It looks like the SW flat spell will be over by the end of next week.  The first south swinging low pressure of the Autumn looks set to track across from Wednesday... waves (and wind and rain) galore for you pasty munchers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2007, 10:09:49 am
Sat looks ok... at least the wind will be OS. yesterday was 1/2 ft and OS, going climbing ...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2007, 02:42:51 pm
OS = Offshore
OS = Onshore ?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 17, 2007, 09:37:32 am
Quiver……. Left to Right

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1041/1395065029_6ac2c1a3fc.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1198/1395065031_c3a9bf201d.jpg?v=0)

I was doing some repairs on Saturday and thought I'd photograph and share these.  I hope this isn't interpreted as showing off.. I'm always interested to see what other people are riding.

5’8 Hand Shaped Keel Fin Fish – Crafted myself during the Summer of 2006.  Currently broken as I didn’t glass the fins in properly, one fell out and it’s now waiting to be fixed.

6’3” Swallow Tail Quad - Shaped by Graeme Bunt following that trip to Ireland last year where I watched him and Frank McWilliams tear up Easky right on one of these boards.  With a slightly wider plan shape in the nose than a normal as I like a bit of volume under my front foot, this is probably the best board I’ve ever had, it’s extremely fast, very loose (with the Richie Pavel SpeedDialer fins) and also holds its own in bigger surf.  I rode this yesterday in Yorkshire and must have had a dozen set waves.

6’4 Swallow Tail Thruster – This is a replica of my second surfboard that I had during the early 90’s and then foolishly sold.  I now ride this one with a large twin side fins and small trailer fin.  As I get older I’m getting a bit heavy (12 ½ st) for it now so if anyone wants to buy it drop me a line and I’ll cut you a good deal.

6’5 Single Fin Egg –  I was nervous about going to Hawaii given the fearsome reputation of the  locals attitude toward Haoles and was given good bit of advice from an American friend which was ‘ride a local board’.  So I had Keola Rapuza of T&C make me this single fin egg before I went out.  The first morning there I paddled out at Ala Moanas and this huge guy shouted 'Hey... Hey...' and winced thinking 'Sh*t, here it comes...' and he shouts 'Nice board brah... it's nice out there' and I had a great two weeks.  If you look at the plan shape, you can see this isn’t a retro board by any means but a contemporary Egg made for surf with some juice.

6’5 Nigel Semmens Round Pin – A thick board that goes well, getting rather old now and somewhat battered.  I don’t ride it much these days but I’m reluctant to let it go.

6’6 Round Pin – Slightly thicker than a normal thruster, this goes great in powerful hollow or point surf, very responsive. One for hollow punchy days.

6’10 Widowmaker – Based on the Dave Parmenter profile that Neal Purchase Jr is riding in Glass Love, Adrian Phillips shaped this for me earlier this year prior to the Barbados trip. It has a large centre fin and two side bites. I’m riding this now more than the semi-gun when the surf gets overhead as it has a bit more volume up-front so I can get in earlier and the 2 + 1 setup has lots of drive off the bottom.  A very nice surfboard and I’m looking forward to taking this to Ireland in three weeks.

7’0 Aloha Semi-Gun – Have semi-gun will travel.  This has not seen as much action since I got the Widowmaker but this has ridden larger (for me anyway) waves in Hawaii, Mentawaiis, Barbados, Spain, Scotland and the Canaries.

9’6 South Coast Dane Peterson – A 37 lb beast of a board with 16oz Volan glass job and with a proper George Greenough flex fin.  I only started riding logs last year and it’s added a new dimension to my surfing.  Hanging ten on this thing and trimming on a neat waist high peeler is really something.

If I had to keep three boards it would be the Bunty Quad, the Phillips Widowmaker and the Log… they cover pretty much everything.

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1407/1395065039_2fd1110b46.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1433/1395065041_bb1be5218f.jpg?v=0)

I like looking at fins... and I love surfing.

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1026/1395065047_e2ad43be76.jpg?v=0)


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave on September 17, 2007, 09:59:27 am
me and the shortie were up at sandsend beach (whitby) yesterday and there were loads of people surfing there, was very windy and big-ass waves breaking etc. i don't know any surfing terminology. fairly impressive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 17, 2007, 10:00:02 am
Was Yorks good then?

Moray Coast was big, way to big for me; head and a half possibly? Got out back after a lot of hard work, then failed to get on two waves, taking a nailing each time. Then rode white wave back to shore and played in smaller waves. Got some good pics, will post tomorrow. Made me realise neither me nor my minimal is not up to job on waves that size, and encouraged me to work harder at riding the big fish, which I did most of the day yesterday in Aberdeen.

Are any of those boards redundant? A lot of them seem pretty similar.

I'm keen to get a longboard, probably will by the time next summer comes around. Thinking of the 9ft Take Off Noserider. Superlight!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 17, 2007, 10:25:19 am
Dave - That's where I was yesterday.. felt like the last day of Summer.  Good waves, People sunbathing, ice creams, sunshine, horrendous traffic on the way home.

Chris - Redundant boards?  The 6'4 Swallowtail is too thin for me now so I'll be getting rid of that and the 6'5 Semmens is very similar to the 6'6 I bought up your way last year.  The rest are all very different...   

I'm in town for two days tomorrow (did I really arrange those meetings to coincide with the swell?  :-\) and plan to bring the 6'5 and leave it in Aberdeen for the winter. See you tomorrow evening at the Beach and an early one on Wednesday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 17, 2007, 10:44:44 am
Sounds good for both. Pretty flat this morning, not sure if there's still too much west in the swell, but might be OK tomorrow. Stick in climbing gear in case it's flat; can do new beach wall.

Felt like the fist day of autumn here on the weekend; needed gloves towards end of session yesterday, apparently light snow on Cairrngorms and frost foecast for later in week.

So only two redundant boards then? That's as many as I own!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave on September 17, 2007, 11:43:55 am
Dave - That's where I was yesterday.. felt like the last day of Summer.  Good waves, People sunbathing, ice creams, sunshine, horrendous traffic on the way home.

I was there about 3:30-4ish, deffo no sun then! took a load of photos, you might even be in there.

Did you drive back on the a64 via malton? that was terrible last night, and it always seems to be the same. we should have gone back the way we came round by northallerton etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2007, 12:04:15 pm
(http://photos-086.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v113/154/67/689146086/n689146086_323131_1123.jpg)

Banff lines. pity light was poor. And there is dirt on my sensor
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 18, 2007, 12:38:12 pm
The twinnie looks good....
got a really nice brand new (one session) 9.0 plank for sale, fins + bag,,,, 300.00
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2007, 02:29:11 pm
Specs?

Do you still come up to Aberdeen at all any more?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 19, 2007, 08:20:10 am
I was there about 3:30-4ish,....Did you drive back on the a64 via malton?

I was in the water at that time, toward the cafe end.  The tide was high so the waves were not as good as earlier in the day, breaking onto the beach...

Yep I foolishly followed my autopilot and went via the A64. Should've gone North a bit and then across to the A19
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 20, 2007, 10:41:56 am
totally on again, someone flicked the switch... tis 3ft and fast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 20, 2007, 12:51:21 pm
The twinnie looks good....
got a really nice brand new (one session) 9.0 plank for sale, fins + bag,,,, 300.00

PK, I have PMed you on this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 20, 2007, 01:39:06 pm
The twinnie looks good....

Thanks.. unfortunately having made it myself it doesn't surf as good as it looks  :)   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on September 20, 2007, 02:42:45 pm
First off, LOVELY quiver pix. Waddage there.

Just got back from Hossegor, the flattest surf trip ever, Guiness Book o' records here I come. Bought a new Al Merrick and it didn't get wet. Didn't see a ripple for a week, tried Basque country climbing (went to Onate and it was absolutely shyte). The long range forecast was even flatter than flat so we bailed to Font and had 15-18 degrees and bluebird. Fantastic! Then bailed to Norway on a huge forecast, had masthigh down the line windsurfing on a point one day and two surfs the next, finally in the water!
We did see a lot of boobs on the beach in Hoss, which was nice...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 20, 2007, 10:32:48 pm
We did see a lot of boobs on the beach in Hoss, which was nice...
so it wasnt flat at all!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 27, 2007, 10:43:05 am
 ;D  Hurrah!  Flat spell is over!  (Well it's flat to today hence the communication!!)  Had an expectedly large wind blown swell on Monday..  Those with the knowledge and foresight scored an epic high tide evening session of 3 to 4ft powerful lefthand reef cleaness at a spot in Somerset.  (The Weir) 6 people in the water, 5 from Minehead and little old me from North Devon.  Stayed in for 3 hours until it was too dark to see! Epic sunset, everyone smiling and giggling, good vibes in the water.  Will live off this session for a while!  Lynmouth was big messy and out of control!  Expecting offshore 2ft ish pulse to hit the beachies tommorow and Saturday! You just gotta love the autumn.

Nice quiver FD that's a lot money sitting there on your lawn (share the wealth!!).  Where do you find space to store the all?!  My quiver expanded to 3 boards recently...  7''6 Bonzer from a company that was based in Cornwall called Pirate.......it goes quick in a straight line and turns like an oil tanker!  6''8 Spider Murphy exec, basically a shortboard with lots of volume that paddles nice and easy similar to a fat boy flier (a pain to duck dive!) and my new edition 6'' Celtic Connections thruster...  still getting used to this one, definately needs some punch to work properly!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 27, 2007, 11:18:14 am
Glad to hear everyone is getting some waves.  I managed England, Scotland and Wales in 6 days last week.. although Aberdeen (with SA Chris ) was on the small side and Wales was a bit small and mushy at the weekend.

Nash - Given the Norway connection do you post on UKC with two initials?  What a shame you didn't get waves in France, especially as it suddenly picked up last week.

Granticus - What's the water quality like in Somerset?  I went to ATP in Minehead last December and was thinking of taking a board in case there was some swell.

Where do I store the quiver? - I've got a fairly large shed and I made some roof slings so they sit out of the way and I've left one in Aberdeen at a colleagues place over the winter for when I visit with work. I've had some of those boards for more than 10 years so it's not like I suddenly spent a fortune :-) If anyone wants to buy the 6'4 fish/thruster I'll cut a very good deal 'cos I don't use it anymore (too heavy - me that is, not the board). 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 27, 2007, 11:43:48 am
Water quality in Somerset???  Pretty murky, it's the Bristol Channel so the water can appear dirty because of all the silt coming out of the river Severn.  However, I'm not aware of any major pollution problems and haven't personally had any issues.  A v. big swell is required for breaks in Somerset to have decent waves, not as big as everyone thinks though! It is always an excellent option when the SWs and Ss are howling.  If it's too small it's not far over the border into Devon to Lynmouth where if you're lucky you can score absolutely epic lefts (seriously epic, my legs are getting tired and the paddle back round is making my shoulders burn kind of epic) and on occasion a nice powerful barrelling right.  There is also a mellow beachie in Minehead that works occasionally and a small band of local surfers (The Colony IV creW).  It's definately worth taking a board just in case but not a consistent place at all...  The piccy over here  <<<<<<<< is a Somerset reef going off!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 27, 2007, 02:41:50 pm
Stuck in Abo for the WE, any one about... SA C?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 27, 2007, 06:41:47 pm
He's in Arizona...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 28, 2007, 05:48:20 pm
seems like tomorrow i'll be in the water (surfing) again, with the posse.
it's incredible how much climbing has filled in all my spare time recently.
i've never surfed this few, and although i miss it, i'm completely fullfilled by pulling on rocks.

anyway, cross-stepping tomorrow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 29, 2007, 11:39:17 am
Anyone know where the DWS area is up here, or some Bouldering, or a multi pitch VS... the surf is off...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 01, 2007, 09:29:44 pm
Flew over some nice lines today though! is it Offshore at every break in the UK today? must be, as i am too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2007, 09:58:54 am
I'm back. Idol Eyes, let me know when you are in town again. I am still potentially interested in buying that longboard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 09, 2007, 12:42:55 pm
Yeah, It is 9.0, Hawian Soul, traditional , vee tail. 3 1/4"  30/70 rails will post a photo later, when back on terra firma. hope you had  a wicked trip! looks like you got some swell coming your way, on the Elgin platform, looking good on the metro... back in town some time in the nest two weeks, just bought an antique rocket fish, complete with poly fila repairs (worth alot). keen to get it on, will talk around my mobilisation.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2007, 01:50:57 pm
Have PMed you (again)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 10, 2007, 04:05:18 pm
 :dance1:

Well folks.  Was in Exeter training for work yesterday, the weather cleared up and I got a session in (bouldering) at Bonehill.  Managed to pull my butt up a V8 sit start arete on the 'warm up' boulder, woo hoo!  Today the surf is pumping in proper Autumn swell stylee and this is set to continue tommorow, Friday, Saturday, Sunday with light winds throughout.  I'm in hog heaven!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 10, 2007, 05:46:38 pm
Its off shore as well, trying hard to not quit work, trying real hard...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2007, 08:31:52 am
:dance1:

 Managed to pull my butt up a V8 sit start arete on the 'warm up' boulder, woo hoo!

Arkem? I never managed to figure out what went where on that arete.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 11, 2007, 10:27:12 am
Shit, got another "can not turn down the money" job, five weeks in Norway... Eruo trip is now not likely,,, Costa Rica is the light at the end of this forth coming "very dark tunnel!"
any one been?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2007, 10:49:41 am
No, but looks sweet in Stormriders.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 11, 2007, 08:26:56 pm
Quote
five weeks in Norway...
 
Aren't there any breaks in Norway?  There must be!  Take your boards...
Quote
Arkem? I never managed to figure out what went where on that arete.
Yep! That's the one..  Bum Start, left hand on pinch right in crack thing with thumb over top of crystal, right foot on low edge under crack, left heel on low slopey edge around arete, pull on slap up with left to fat sloper, bring right foot up to little crystal foothold, kind of toe scum/clamp with left foot and move right hand up to small edge directly above the crack thingy, then i made a kind timing dependent slap up to the hold on the arete with my left hand, (left foot comes off right stays where it is) then finish by slap the top big fat sloper with your right hand!!!!!  Proper job baey!
Sorry folks it's not surfing talk is it now.....  It's been pumping all day here in North Devon, absolutely epic, managing to surf early before work, negotiated a late start with my boss tommorow!! The charts are of the dial for the entire weekend...  Bouldering can wait for the impending flat spell..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 11, 2007, 08:32:57 pm
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/Norway/

Lotsa breaks^^
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 11, 2007, 08:42:52 pm
Er, kinda in the middle of the sea mate,,, many waves, but would not fit my boards on the chopper, Ha, can see it now.... Hawaii 50, north sea oil rig stylee...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2007, 08:54:00 am
Or Apocalypse Now style.

"There are no good peaks in Vietnam....... Norway"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 12, 2007, 09:17:39 pm
Quote
Costa Rica is the light at the end of this forth coming "very dark tunnel!"

clm has been and rated it. believe The Fly was taught to surf here by his good lady wife also. They rated it as well.

What are you doing with all this money then? Is there a lady in cornwall with expensive tastes?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 13, 2007, 11:49:06 am
Very much so, but as she is also 5 times British champion, she is also prone to laughing at my expense in the water. Still, she is a short boarder, I pissed myself when she tryed to hang ten... twas like a blindfolded retard running off a diving board into a belly flop.
She is fucking high maintenence, but a massive improvement on the last loon...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 14, 2007, 03:45:30 pm
She is fucking high maintenence, but a massive improvement on the last loon...
  ;D I'm guessing she doesn't read this forum. Or you hope she doesn't.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2007, 06:52:31 pm
Which one...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 14, 2007, 07:44:58 pm
The current.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2007, 08:59:12 pm
No, but by the uncannyest of coincidence, her brother claimed the British title today!!! in 7ft clean Fistral surf!!!
Funny how that all happened inbetween posts!
Hope he has not read this.... Nice one Ben.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2007, 08:12:39 am
Was Gathering of the Clans at Fraserburgh on Saturday afternoon, so I made the most of a deserted Banff. 3-4 foot lean peeling waves, ok water temp, light offshore breeze and even the occasional burst of sunshine. Nice lulls between sets and finally coming to terms with how great and responsive the Fish is. A few goatboaters on the point, but it looked pretty gutless, so had the peak on the beach to myself. Life is good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 15, 2007, 09:26:46 am
Got back from a week in Ireland on Saturday night.  We surfed Easkey rights and lefts Saturday through Monday last week and had great conditions.  Head high to head and a half groundswell with glassy or light offshores.  I think we had 8 sessions over those three days and I was surfing well from the get go so it was a great weekend.

Tuesday was small and we were tired so headed over to the Belmullet to look for the resident Snowy Owl that we searched in vain for last year.  This time we got lucky and had the pleasure of watching the owl for an hour through my mates telescope and our bins.  On the way back we sampled the Victorian seaweed baths in Inniscrome to ease our weary bodies - an experience well worth the 20 Euros if you are ever in the area.

Wednesday brought another small day due to the amount of SW in the swell so it wasn't wrapping into Sligo so we headed south to Co Clare.  A three hour drive deposited us at Doolin Point to see Crab Island breaking at double overhead but we were too late to paddle out and the tide was pushing up onto the rocks.  Lahinch was too high and jam packed with kooks dropping in on each other so we cracked open some tinnies and fished off the pier.  Unfortunately we woke up to screaming southwesterlies and driving rain on Thursday morning.  Debating the options for the next few days, the shipping forecast sealed it for us and we headed back to Easkey.  There's something about Clare that's a bit oppressive and we felt our mood lift as we headed back North. Despite trading on its reputation as a surf town there are very few places to wild camp or pitch up a van and its all a bit too touristy.

When we hit the coast we knew we'd made the right decision, the swell had picked up and with a little more west, the lefts and rights were shoulder to head high and we had a great session on the right, not leaving the water until after dark.  The remaining two days were the same and we surfed, ate, slept, read, fished and watched birds.

As always with a weeks surf trip there are highs and lows:

Highs:

I was surfing well, probably better than ever - got some great waves.  Made a couple of barrels & really got my backhand surfing down with all those sessions on the right.  Had one particular session on the left when it had some size (8-10ft faces, maybe bigger) with only two of us out and got three or four set waves.

The company; Jason and Dave were great travelling companions.  We shared the cooking, driving, washing up 'n stuff and had no disagreements.

The weather and the scenery - there's so much more to surfing than the act of riding a wave.

The Snowy Owl in the wild.  One of only handful in the British Isles - that was a privilege.

The Guiness.

Lows:

The 'kookocracy' TM Dave Parmenter seems to be on the increase.  I don't mean beginners but the surfers who have achieved some level of basic competence but behave badly or with some god-given sense of entitlement: paddling straight back to the peak after a wave; sitting too deep and paddling for unmakeable waves when someone else is in a better position; a lack of generosity; bailing boards instead of duckdiving... blah.

County Clare - the weather and the height restriction bars on all the car parks.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2007, 09:50:31 am
Kookocracy. A great word. Would have wadded you for it if it was yours. Interesting point you make though. Glad you had a good trip. Did you stop to check out Cliffs of Moher or Ailladie? We thought Lahinch town was OK when we were there (it was May though), but never surfed Lahinch itself, surfed Spanish Point and Doonbeag (I think? behind a Golfcourse) instead.

You up this way at all? Looks like it may be good later in week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 15, 2007, 10:30:30 am
Whats it like 2day, land at Scotia at around 3pm....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2007, 11:02:29 am
Flatter than a flounder's cock. Nothing forecast until later in week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on October 15, 2007, 05:14:27 pm
when i hear people from more wave-blessed countries than italy say it's flat, i always ask myself: will it be really flat even for my standards?
will it be so flat that i wouldn't paddle out with my 9'4"?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 15, 2007, 06:04:10 pm
9.4
you know the score..

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 15, 2007, 06:59:18 pm
when i hear people from more wave-blessed countries than italy say it's flat, i always ask myself: will it be really flat even for my standards?
will it be so flat that i wouldn't paddle out with my 9'4"?

Yep - The East Coast and (although more rarely) the West do indeed go proper flat - flatter than witches tits and flounder cocks. The only place I've been where 'flat' still meant rideable waves was Hawaii when it was 'flat' for three days but I still had better waves than many sessions in the UK.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 16, 2007, 08:44:09 am
Nibs, I can post you some links to the webcams if you want. I have seen Aberdeen without barely a ripple breaking on the beach, for a week or so continuously, in midsummer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 16, 2007, 10:06:07 am
Just been reading the article in the new Surfer's Path about new materials for boards.

How cool do the Danny Hess "wood" boards look?

(http://bp1.blogger.com/_hBFYo2ZAWrM/RksXZyYtp-I/AAAAAAAAAEQ/7PPH4VixbdE/s320/roundpin3.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2007, 10:51:46 am
Well last night felt like the last gasp of summer. A small fresh southerly swell arrived and the beach was a free for all before it got dark. Got half a dozen decent rides in, as well as ploughing into someone who moved past in front of me just as I was taking off. At least my board was undamaged. Clocks change on the weekend, depressing. Will have to start doing lunchtime sessions now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 27, 2007, 09:17:44 pm
If you chaps had december and jan off- where would you be surfing? Thinking of costa rica or maybe indo out of season. beginner/intermediate surfer been to fuerte, lanza lookin for somethin more exotic and to get some consistant waves as would be keen to improve. an ideas??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2007, 09:14:28 am
I'm probably not the best person to recommend exotic locations, but Morocco or Portugal could be good? Depends how much cash you have and if you will have transport or not.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2007, 10:24:00 am
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.

Spreckels was a mysterious and larger than life character, the son of a wealthy industrialist who subsequently became the son of Clark Gable after his father died and mother married again.  He inherited $50m when he was 18 and dropped out of his intended career path to become a surfer.  Unusually for a Haole, he was welcomed with open arms in Hawaii as his father had defended the last 'King' of Oahu and was inducted in various secret rites by the Kahunas.  He pushed the boundaries of surfing in the 70's, experimenting with short boards and lots of hallucinogens often at the same time.  He died in 1977 - drugs 'n stuff.....

Worth reading if you can get your hands on a copy.  I had read a story about Spreckels in an old Surfers Journal but this was very interesting.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2007, 10:30:54 am
If you chaps had december and jan off- where would you be surfing?

Hawaii... Seriously, if I had December and January off work I'd be there like a shot.

Costa Rica and Mexico would probably be a good choice.. lots of variety but I've not been myself.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2007, 11:40:40 am
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.

Anyone know if Observer ever put these things online? Alternatively, FD can you get it to me sometime?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2007, 06:34:09 pm
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.

Anyone know if Observer ever put these things online? Alternatively, FD can you get it to me sometime?

http://observer.guardian.co.uk/osm/story/0,,2198124,00.html#article_continue

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 29, 2007, 09:38:19 pm
that interview is priceless :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Somebody's Fool on October 30, 2007, 10:18:35 am
I read that the other day.  Weirdly, he was born in America in 1949 and called Adolph.  Bet there weren't many others in his kindergarten class.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 05, 2007, 10:42:08 am
Yo! been away,,,, just hit Bore, nr Stavanger, Norway,,, Very good, Very cold, Very hospitable,,,  Head high and off shore,,, Sunday... Will comunicate details later, peace and love..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 05, 2007, 02:40:00 pm
When are you back in Abn? looks like something is brewing.......
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 23, 2007, 08:14:56 pm
Been and gone, really am seeing to much of that place. keep missing the wave there, must of been pretty savage the last week or two. Did you scope that board??? to be honest, you could mail order a new one for the same price, just minus  the stuff... Drill gota go...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 24, 2007, 05:43:03 pm
Just read (in a day, its that good), "The search for Captin Zero" Allan Weisenbeck. Fully recomend it from a Howard Marks meets Carlos Castenada  tip...
An account of the Central America travel scene... It even quotes Daniel Daunes book, still trying to locate a copy of that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 25, 2007, 10:59:39 am
There's a sequel - Cosmic Banditos... good too.

Chris - I'm heading up the 'deen tomorrow arvo.  Will bring suit and am staying at the The Patio by the beach. Unfortunatley Tuesday is looking fully booked up with work but if there's still a wave to be had Wednesday morning I'll be around if you are.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 25, 2007, 12:19:01 pm
In the middle of 6 meter swell at the momment, 35 knt wind, just off Abo... must be cranking some where.
Think Cosmic Banditos was the Prequel,,, his writing the sequel now...
good luck next week, looking out for rouge waves., saw one or two in Norway,,, I think!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2007, 09:33:50 am
Aye, Cosmic Banditos is the prequel. He makes reference to it a couple of times in Captain Zero. I liked CZ, some great stories. Felt a bit inconclusive though. 

Parked at beach this morning and waves looked OK, not sure if they will last until wednesday. Can probably do Wednesday earlymorning or Lunchtime surfing FD. Or lunchtime bouldering session at Transition if it's flat. Email or text me.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on November 26, 2007, 11:39:06 am
Yo! been away,,,, just hit Bore, nr Stavanger, Norway,,, Very good, Very cold, Very hospitable,,,  Head high and off shore,,, Sunday... Will comunicate details later, peace and love..


Had Byberg, just N of Bore last weekend, smokin hot, glassy and head high. Nice lefts, there is a 15+ second period swell forcast for the coming weekend, woohoo...
(havin said that, when has a week long forecast ever bin right!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2007, 12:04:19 pm
That's one seriously big low that's forecast at the moment. Pity it won't do much for east coast though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 26, 2007, 12:21:07 pm
35 to 40 feet @ 15+ second period for the West Coast of Ireland on Saturday  :jaw:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2007, 01:56:45 pm
Come on Eileens?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 26, 2007, 09:56:43 pm
Somewhere near Eileens last Tuesday... no skis... heavy looking spot.

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/37680.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on November 27, 2007, 07:27:23 am
SMOKIN!!
Would have been cooler if some dude was squeeking out the doggy door on the left tho!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 27, 2007, 11:38:07 am
Some clean lines commin thru now, 110 miles of Abo, wind in opposite direction, somewhere.... someone, is surfing!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 30, 2007, 09:25:41 am
Worth a punt...

http://www.purevacations.com/livesurfcams/

ps: If any of you win, you've got to take me.  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 30, 2007, 10:15:32 am
Random bloke vs my bird. Hmmm decisions decisions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on December 01, 2007, 03:53:44 pm
Random bloke vs my bird. Hmmm decisions decisions.
Oy less of the 'random'.  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2007, 11:25:53 am
After getting her to endure bitter cold conditions at Banff yesterday I think I would be castrated if I didn't take her. Nice waves though.

Looks like Ireland's west coast is going mental.

(http://news.bbc.co.uk/nol/shared/spl/hi/pop_ups/07/uk_tow_surfers/img/1.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on December 03, 2007, 07:25:25 am
Might just be the angle the pic was taken from, but that looks a smidgen bigger than we had yesterday. But it was a nice, clean, long period swell tho, and sun to boot... http://picasaweb.google.com/johan.olofsson/Surf17SecDecember2007
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 03, 2007, 08:27:25 am
There was a nice picture of Mullaghmore in the Observer yesterday.

Nash - Nice little piccies and video... looks quite shallow on the inside at that spot.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2007, 08:44:36 am
Banff was pretty good on Saturday as well - 3-4 ft and nice clean long period waves. Surfed the point for a bit, but too long to wait between sets so was getting too cold waiting around, so surfed beach for a bit, which was much more productive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 03, 2007, 01:03:32 pm
Here's another viewpoint from the Irish session at the weekend....

(http://www.ireland.com/newspaper/images/2007/1203/frontpageimage.jpg?ts=1196686045)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on December 04, 2007, 09:55:19 am
There was a nice picture of Mullaghmore in the Observer yesterday.

Nash - Nice little piccies and video... looks quite shallow on the inside at that spot.

It is not so bad, the boulders are easy to slalom round once you are on the inside, the take-off is plenty deep. You do however have the spas-walk in and out of the water on slimy rocks, always a joy, and always ends in a ding. It is even worse when we windsurf there, carrying that kit is a touch harder than a 4kg surfboard!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on December 04, 2007, 11:58:47 am
Not a great short video from Ireland...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2GGPtRTsj4
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 05, 2007, 02:29:32 pm
It shows how wild it was in front of the storm - there's a great close shave at -10 secs where someone just misses getting hideously hammered by the lip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on December 06, 2007, 07:12:40 am
That lip at -0:49 seconds look heavy heavy stuff. Nice.

Snuck out for a cheeky 45 mins after work yesterday, but they were a bit gutless. Still, mustn't grumble...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 06, 2007, 10:22:07 am
Lunchtime sessions are the way to go. Warmest part of the day and if i get here early enough and leave late enough i can get two hours in the water (enough at this time of year).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 18, 2007, 02:26:48 pm
Hazaarrrr!!!!!!!! :o

High Pressure and A Fat Storm!! It had to happen at some point didn't it.......  Beefy swell and offshore winds over the weekend here in the South West, the whole North Coast lit up..... Especially Sunday......  Heavy, heavy, heaving low tide Croyde!......  Ireland must have been insane!

Also got some sneaky round the corner sessions in during the period of strong wind and rain a week or so ago..  That left hand reef just in Somerset was on splendid form and packing a punch whilst the coastal beachies served up big blown out drivel. 

Today it's flat again......  Looks like Santa might bring the gift of some nice little swell for Chrimbo though....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 20, 2007, 07:50:52 pm
Well Well Well, you wetsuit washers,,, tuning you from Troncones, Mexico, waves every day till 12.o, 3ft with 5ft sets, various point breaks around, did Rio Nexpa, waters bit dirty,,, going to "the Ranch" 2moro. Acapulco for the new year, then on to Puerto Escondido, then travelling up to Puero Vallarta, calling in anywhere and everywhere, have a good Xmas, and see you in the new one,,,
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on December 21, 2007, 05:14:03 pm
Well Well Well, you wetsuit washers,,, tuning you from Troncones, Mexico, waves every day till 12.o, 3ft with 5ft sets, various point breaks around, did Rio Nexpa, waters bit dirty,,, going to "the Ranch" 2moro. Acapulco for the new year, then on to Puerto Escondido, then travelling up to Puero Vallarta, calling in anywhere and everywhere, have a good Xmas, and see you in the new one,,,

 :-\   :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 21, 2007, 10:59:40 pm
 :lol:

Useless Pat was never useless at spending other people's money. Good luck M. Debtcollection. But somehow I think you may need it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 06, 2008, 12:34:16 am
Been pretty big last few days here in Sydney. 8-10ft yesterday afternoon. Not that clean but pretty big

(http://strm-gallery.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/gallery/images/LOTD06012008b_200815224751.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 06, 2008, 11:18:54 am
Did you get out Adam?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 06, 2008, 12:03:13 pm
Did you get out Adam?

Did i fuckers like!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 06, 2008, 04:19:12 pm
 :)

I was just curious thats all..

When you are in a "proper" surfing country and you get a hefty swell it puts it in perspective when you hear people in the UK rattling on about "blah blah blah 6 to 8 foot... triple overhead blah blah"... yeeaah right.  Not that we don't get good surf, but it we really don't get it big very often unlike the Pacific and Indian Ocean coasts.

When you see an 8-10ft swell, you soon realise what a 15ft or 20ft wave would really look like up close, never mind the monsters the tow-in guys are pulling into.

That said, it doesn't take long to get used to bigger waves when you get the opportunity to get out there, especially when its clean and well lined up.  You should put two leashes on and paddle out next time!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 07, 2008, 01:18:37 am
Yeah, thats the thing, if it was a clean swell it would be another story. This was all over the place. That shot makes it look particuarly good. I am also not surfing that often at the moment so am not surf fit. Being fit makes you more confident. Two leashes, never thought of that!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2008, 08:12:43 am
North Sea was massive on Saturday, after 2 days of howling onshores. Went down to Stonehaven for a look and there was the occasional wave that you could have surfed if you were in the right time at the right place. Might have been good yesterday, but opted to go ski touring instead as good conditions for that are even rarer than good surf.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 09, 2008, 11:38:59 pm
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/570_BillabongXXL_200811061310.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 10, 2008, 12:20:41 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcaZarxilJQ

i want to start surfing :[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on January 10, 2008, 07:52:07 am
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/570_BillabongXXL_200811061310.jpg)

Must have taken a while to paddle out to that  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2008, 08:16:14 am

i want to start surfing :[

Why the :[ ?

There is no reason why you can't start.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 10, 2008, 03:27:48 pm
can never get round to it really,
dont know where to start!
what gear do you need?
long board? short board?
i dont mind if it takes longer to learn on a short board.
need something that MIGHT fit in me fiesta!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2008, 04:47:12 pm
Shitty excuses mate. If you really want to do it, pull your finger out.

Get a minimal and a 5/3 suit that fits, then you can decide where you want to go from there; bigger or smaller.

I can fit my minimal in a 2 door corsa, no worries.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 12, 2008, 06:37:30 pm
In Puerto Escondido, Snapped two long boards, been pitted and swatted and pissed every day, two months to go, heavyest break I have ever surfed, and its only been head high....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 15, 2008, 07:31:29 pm
Puerto Escondido pah! (not that I'm jealous or owt!).. you need to start riding a variety of boards Pat.. longboards suck at heavy beach breaks.

Finally a flexible work window coincides with some swell so I'm hitting a couple of secret spots in Yorkshire with a gobby ex-Renegade Master tomorrow and then some more in Northumberland on Thursday with some skinny f*cker who got chinned by Airlie back in t'old days.

Pics to follow if its good...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 15, 2008, 07:52:10 pm
longboards suck at heavy beach breaks.


yes, tell that to joel tudor.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 15, 2008, 08:50:05 pm
Tudor rides eggs, stubbies and diamond tails at heavy beach breaks... watch Longer, Shelter etc.

C'mon Nibs.. I mean HEAVY (o'head to double o'head into 2 feet of water) beach break.. Tudor doesn't take his Mals out there.  Remember I ride a 9'6 40 lb single fin too y'know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2008, 08:29:24 am
Finally a flexible work window coincides with some swell so I'm hitting a couple of secret spots in Yorkshire with a gobby ex-Renegade Master tomorrow and then some more in Northumberland on Thursday.

Hope they are sheltered from the wind. Might go for a look at Aberdeen at lunchtime tomorrow, but expect it to be too windy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 16, 2008, 08:38:22 am
gobby ex-Renegade Master

Does he surf as well as he climbed? What does he ride?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 16, 2008, 11:40:48 pm
Big Swell last two days, 6-8 ft, 5 ft at La Punta... leaving here 2moro, going to El Ranch, Totally killing it on the 9.0 getting barrelled then once or twice, surfacing withn two boards...
still learning all the way...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 18, 2008, 11:02:39 am
You lucky bugger... sounds great.

Adam - No (otherwise he'd be in all the mags) but he's very competent.  A standard travelling Brit quiver: a big day board, thrusters and fish.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 18, 2008, 11:23:44 am
How was last 2 days FD? Abs was blown out and toss.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 18, 2008, 11:39:59 am
The last two days were windy, wild and adventurous.

Wednesday was spent at a beautiful secluded left hand point in North Yorkshire.  The swell was a bit raggedy but we were out of the wind.  Just two of us, a big seal and overhead sets.  A snapped leash ended our fun a bit too early and a battering over the boulders to get out.

Thursday we were out on the Northumberland search just before first light. The combination of a massive North swell and Southerly winds really limited options as most of the spots that hold a big Northerly are South facing so these were all blown out.  We ended up at one of the small seaside towns eyeing up a reef that was rideable but might not have been surfed before.  The rip caused by the southerlies meant a constant paddle to stay in position but some good hairy rides were had before the tide dropped out and the reef was sucking dry.

The wind thankfully backed off and swung west so we finished the day at a beach/reef in overhead clean waves. After an hour of great waves I came the closest I have to drowning for 15 years when I duck dived a hollow wave that detonated on my neck, ripped my suit/zip wide open and flushed my entire suit with gallons of freezing water which caused me to sink. I was able to get onto my board and get close to shore but then got caught in the rip and taken out to the line up again where I duck dived another set which flushed my suit again. I was really quite worried at a couple of points that I wasn't going to make it out.  Scary mary...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 18, 2008, 12:08:09 pm
Yikes. Wouldn't want to get that happen ever, let alone in my current state of unfitness.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2008, 10:05:06 am
There's a book out now, as per FDs post about the interview with Bunker Spreckels.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ofcyom%2BNL._AA240_.jpg (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ofcyom%2BNL._AA240_.jpg)

On the subject, are there any other good books about surfers out there? Is Stealing the Wave any good?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 22, 2008, 01:58:37 am
Surfers stories, found it a bit Phsicophantic, but the Occy section was inspiring.
Surfed La Saladita today, its going tropo 2moro, overhead 500mt rides, big sections, take off, make the wall, small cover ups, thats the first 100 mts then nose to tail all the way, its on the low so gotta watch the cobble stone reef, my first point break since Rio Nexpa, one board left (9,6 stewart hydrohull) going to tear it apart ( broken finger, damn those mexican hung hamocks) peace...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 22, 2008, 10:13:56 am
Chris - I got Stealing the Wave for Christmas but haven't read it yet.  Andy Martin has always been obsessed by Foo and Bradshaw and he's a pretty good writer so it could be worthwhile.

There's a new book out this month that looks really good. A bunch of essays on modern surfing (crowds, internet, travel, neo-soul surfing, etc.) that looks really good but the name escapes me. There's a review on the Mag Seaweed news section.

Nic bought me a copy of Ether for Chrimbo that arrived late. Its a beautiful hardbound, screen printed 15" x 12" 200 page limited edition of photo's and essays by Andrew Kidman (Litmus and Glass love) - have a look at litmus.com.au .

Idol - I'm very jealous... (particularly as its also 5am and I'm up and jetlagged in DC).

 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 22, 2008, 10:30:36 am
Chris - I got Stealing the Wave for Christmas but haven't read it yet.  Andy Martin has always been obsessed by Foo and Bradshaw and he's a pretty good writer so it could be worthwhile.

Not a great great book, but certainly readable. I read it on a recent trip to the Grampians, and took me a couple of days. If a  dont read a book in a few days, i get bored. So its not that bad. Just goes on a bit. Plus the section with Foo, i knew the story already, so that dragged a bit.

Be interesting to know what you think about it. I have yet to find an outstanding surfing book. Pipedreams, the Slater Bio was dull. Hell, i read the stormrider most nights!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 22, 2008, 12:40:46 pm
>I have yet to find an outstanding surfing book

Caught Inside by Dan Duane - the best by a mile and then some.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 22, 2008, 04:45:36 pm
Weird, surfed Salita today with Allan Wisenbeck, my chick knows him well from Tobago where he wrote his new book, 'Can't get along with anybody'. if you want agood book, the two previous numbers i found excellent.
still trying to find Caught Inside.
Totally killed it today, overhead sets, 350 mts rides (the take off point walled out, so the shoulder was the easy option.
nearly did my first helicopter, but wobbled...
out at dawn, with a full orange moon watching us,,,
wow...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2008, 07:15:17 pm
Far Out, today, I surfed with Gidget, for real....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 25, 2008, 03:16:19 pm
Idol...  Spare a thought.......  Whilst you are having what appears to be an epic trip with epic waves..  I have just spent the morning grovelling in cold brown slop at Lynmouth..  No sign of Gidget here.... and to add insult to injury.. I managed to sheer off a fin on a shallow rock!! Good times!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on January 25, 2008, 03:20:46 pm
Gidget


You surfed w/a girl midget?

I'd pay money to see smurfing gidgets - oh - I mean surfing midgets.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on January 25, 2008, 03:34:32 pm
I'd pay money to see smurfing gidgets - oh - I mean surfing midgets.

How much for kick-boxing midgets?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i38X8GA0wAY

Apologies for being  :off:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on January 25, 2008, 03:50:34 pm
(W O W - that chap in blue trunks has one slammin' R hook!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2008, 06:29:15 pm
Gidget


You surfed w/a girl midget?

Noooo!

(http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/MG/143994~Gidget-Posters.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 05, 2008, 04:21:49 pm
Stumbled across some rather nice pics on flickr...

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/67/170561047_37081bc5a6_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/konaboy/170561047/in/set-72157594195952459/)

More in the guys stream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/konaboy/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 05, 2008, 04:28:11 pm
East Coast this weekend was truly awesome. Low tide was unfavourably early but my mate and me had one of the points to ourselves for a few hours. 8-10 ft beasts rolling in  :jaw:and a backdrop of snow covered fields made for a great mornings surf, if a little terrifying. The afternoon was a slightly more friendly 3-5ft at south bay.
Was surprised at how few people there were for a great swell. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 05, 2008, 07:07:56 pm
Hello.. bit of a newbie. got back from 2 months in costa rica and got withdrawl symptoms from surfing... thinking of braving the ocean over here. living in sheff for most of march.. any you guys got any advice. guess east coast is the way forward. ?? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 05, 2008, 08:01:44 pm
Here's one that could be in non-climbing vids/this thread/the wonders of HiDef video/Deaf fit birds who go surfing or a unique thread all of it's own...

http://www.adobe.com/products/hdvideo/hdgallery/ ...and click on 'Surfing in slow motion'. The big ones (720/1080) need a good video card to play smoothly, but BOY do they look good. I particularly appreciate the quality of the HD video roughly halfway through the film.  :bow: :o ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 05, 2008, 08:59:14 pm
We'll she may be deaf, I couldn't tell from the film... however many times I watched it .  :oops:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:17:52 pm
I took this just before getting in on sat morn.
(http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=46307)
Curly Ben - from sheffield east coast is where it's at. Cold but tres bien.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:20:52 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=46307
Didn't work so here is link.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 07, 2008, 02:30:26 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=46307
Didn't work so here is link.

That's cause you tried to embed the URL for the web-page as opposed to the URL for the image itself...

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/46307.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:34:42 pm
thanks :great:
When you get the webpage up, do you then right click the image to do that. I am a computer retard-o.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 07, 2008, 02:43:21 pm
thanks :great:
When you get the webpage up, do you then right click the image to do that. I am a computer retard-o.

Right-click on the image and select "Open in new [tab/window]" (depends on what browser your using.  That'll open the picture with its own URL in the NavBar, copy and paste that in using the image tags (the third button from the left on the second row).  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:45:44 pm
sweet
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 07, 2008, 09:52:16 pm
Bit of a weird week, Solid south swell and a north westerly met and a new reef come out of nowhere, it was a weird sucky barrel like mutant, so we me and a goatboater paddled out to it (its offshore). convinced him it was a playboat wave, he got worked, and we bailed.
Want to start paddle boarding....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2008, 03:03:54 pm
East Coast this weekend was truly awesome. Low tide was unfavourably early but my mate and me had one of the points to ourselves for a few hours. 8-10 ft beasts rolling in  :jaw:and a backdrop of snow covered fields made for a great mornings surf, if a little terrifying. The afternoon was a slightly more friendly 3-5ft at south bay.
I knew it would be good, I was away.

Curly ben, get yourself a decent wettie, and keep watching the charts.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 18, 2008, 12:09:11 am
Surfed El Faro today, in Nayrit (Saluilita).
5ft long rt hand point break, the first right hander of the trip.
been surfing The Ranch also with totall Legends, any one heard of Corky? me neither, the septics worship him.... also The Tank, all loggers...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 18, 2008, 08:22:09 pm
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 19, 2008, 01:00:13 am
Surfed El Faro today, in Nayrit (Saluilita).
5ft long rt hand point break, the first right hander of the trip.
been surfing The Ranch also with totall Legends, any one heard of Corky? me neither, the septics worship him.... also The Tank, all loggers...

Corky Carroll ? Yeah - he held the crown for a while in the late sixties.  Sounds like you're having a good trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2008, 08:53:08 am
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea

Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.

I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 20, 2008, 04:37:12 pm
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea

Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.

I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)

bloody hell those things look crazy. heard good things about the brand tho..You could deffo do some damage with those!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 20, 2008, 07:50:44 pm
Yeah, Corky Carroll.
Just read another good book. Big Drop, by one of our own John Long,,, big wave stories...
Surfed Sayulita on a good 4ft swell, back at Salidita, sold my Stewart (Gutted), and bought an ultra lite 9.0 (yeah).
Nayrit has some good Granite...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 21, 2008, 05:47:07 pm
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea

Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.

I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)


Is it worth getting boots and gloves from the same company as wetsuit? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2008, 06:16:05 pm
have heard they are pretty good, but not used one myself.

Need to be a 5/3 or so. Wetsuits are like rockshoes; try on loads, a good fit is as important as a good make.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Carnage on February 22, 2008, 03:28:59 am
I'm not much of a surfer (I stick to my body board - I'm getting used to the shouts of 'Why din't ya stand up ya fackin' sponger") but it looks good here at the w/e

http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=3900&state=NSW&t=8:51:58%20AM&camName=Maroubra
 
"Forecast issued 12.30pm Wednesday, 20th February, 2008.

Short Forecast: Thursday ENE swell 2 3ft rising to 3 4ft later with SSE winds. Further rise to 4 6ft Friday with light winds.

An epic ENE groundswell on track for this weekend.
As discussed in previous forecasts this presents us with an ideal scenario for Sydney and the South Coast; the swell producing winds will remain well offshore, spanning much of the central and north-eastern Tasman Sea with, with a broad belt of twenty to twenty five knot winds compounded by stronger thirty five to forty knot winds close to the centre of the storm.

The head of the fetch is centred about 900 kilometres ENE of Sydney and the South Coast thats long enough to allow the swell to get well organised into orderly lines without undergoing significant erosion.

The resulting swell should be solid but not large enough to overwhelm many east facing beaches along the coast so there well be no shortage of rideable options, especially considering the other key factor local winds are expected to be about as good as you could hope for, thanks to a large frontal system tracking beneath the continent on Friday and Saturday.

This significant area of low pressure will eventually evolve into a swell producing system in its own right early next week, but before this occurs well see a cold front pushing eastward across the state generating a strong WSW change on Saturday morning, leading in a moderate westerly flow across the NSW coast that should persist throughout Sunday.

The end result is three and a half days of excellent surf preceding the arrival of a SSE change on Monday afternoon, blowing out leftover E swell in the three foot range"
 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 22, 2008, 08:43:24 am
FD, not sure you got pic up properly.

Carnage, sounds as good as it gets. I expect carnage at busier breaks. Time for you and controlfreak to work the noodle arms.

Make the step from sponge to surfboard. I did a few years back and have never regretted it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2008, 11:39:28 am
Yorkshire.... a couple of weeks back.  Check the surfer in the bottom left for scale.

(https://www.fastmail.fm/mail/?MLS=LN-*&Ust=71a60386!2ec741a8&UDm=3797&MSignal=MB-*)


Good huh?



we can't see that image :)

looking at the link it's inside your mailbox!


Could you do me a favour and delete the link and I'll repost...

Ta
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on February 23, 2008, 12:11:36 pm
done...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 26, 2008, 12:38:21 pm
(http://www.benroaming.fastmail.co.uk/eugene.jpg)

Tried again.... (Hope it works this time) A Yorkshire Secret Spot taken the same day that Dangereux' pics were...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on February 26, 2008, 12:54:48 pm
Jeez  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2008, 01:24:43 pm
Shit the bed. Crazy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 26, 2008, 02:00:59 pm
 :o indeed. What time of day was that? I know quite a few spots between scarborough and middlesbrough but are mainly low - mid tide spots.
We did go for a walk before getting back in for the afternoon session and saw an awesome looking left that looks a similar size to your beast but no-one was on it. It did have a monstrous walk or paddle to get to it tho.

For some ridiculous international rhino's www.billabongxxl.com has some Ireland too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 26, 2008, 02:20:20 pm
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 26, 2008, 02:30:14 pm
It's a low-mid tide venue - pretty well known for a secret spot.  I've ridden it a few times; never bigger than half the size than in that particular shot mind you but even when it's smaller it's still class A.  When it's on; it is (like many others that grace our shores) a truly world class wave, up there in the top 50 but, as with many UK spots, the swell window is so narrow that it is often weeks between decent swells.

I didn't take the picture - my mate who is friends with the guy in the bottom left sent it over so I'm not sure what time it was taken... I think was the 2nd feb when that hefty swell hit the East Coast.

Just goes to show that we do get decent surf though eh?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2008, 03:17:53 pm
the swell window is so narrow that it is often weeks months between decent swells.

Just goes to show that we do get decent surf though eh?

Yes, occasionally. Sadly pretty few and far between for the East Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 27, 2008, 11:06:18 am
What these pictures don't really show is just how fast, violent, noisy and overwhelming it can be when out in heavy conditions.

The still image of a surfer calmly composed in a frozen barrel is a far cry from what it actually feels like, video captures it a little better but not by much.

I'll be here in two weeks time for 15 days  :bounce:

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player.cfm?id=4561 (http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player.cfm?id=4561)

Some nice Soup Bowl barrels (be patient with the flash advert intro).. the guy in the yellow top is geordie Sam Lamiroy who actually won the contest that year.  I was out with a local guy this time last year who said that Sam surfed Soup Bowls better than Kelly Slater which is no mean feat (Youtube clip of KL at SB from Sipping Jetstreams).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjCPHFAmLJM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjCPHFAmLJM)

(I still can't work out how to do this YouTube embedding ting)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 27, 2008, 11:15:52 am
FD - Just highlight and copy the end of the youtube url thing - in your case rjCPHFAmLJM - click the youtube icon so you get this   [youtube =425,350][/youtube ] and paste the code in the gap between the youtube thingys so....

[ youtube=425,350]rjCPHFAmLJM [/ youtube]

(except without the spaces)

Hey presto

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjCPHFAmLJM
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on February 27, 2008, 11:30:25 am
What these pictures don't really show is just how fast, violent, noisy and overwhelming it can be when out in heavy conditions.
I can imagine it's mental - the little white water kayaking i've done was an eye-opener to the violence of water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 27, 2008, 06:07:49 pm
Thanks Jasper...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 29, 2008, 06:28:27 pm
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?
If it is i hope he has mastered the duck dive!  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on February 29, 2008, 07:26:42 pm
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?
Ha - looks like a giant wave of Bisto!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 11, 2008, 06:20:36 pm
Back in the Briney, Big waves, going to go mad....
No surfboards, just sold my fire wire Flexi 6.6, And going to invest in a 9.0 Firewire squash tail...
Or a Chris jones 10.2
Watching the bay close out, close out, close out, then someone snatches a peeling barrel, Fistral is suicide, Missing Mex already made some great friends... recommend it to everyone, Doing the same trip next year 4 shore... Got details of some amazing Rooms and hotels. Be well...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 13, 2008, 02:48:47 pm
Fistral is fireing five foot barrels, Its fucking cold though!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 13, 2008, 10:31:28 pm
Day 3 in Barbados..

Monday morning on my first day at Soup Bowls I broke two leashes and had my rash vest ripped off and lost to the sea - welcome back Ben.  The swell has dropped to 6ft with a short period so its pretty choppy and messy but still nice to be out in boardies and sunscreen.  I got nailed in the face with fire coral this morning whilst bodysurfing on the West Coat so I've been rinsing my pretty visage with my own piss and necking Advil and Guiness since lunchtime. The forecast is for more trade swell until Tuesday next week when a big Northerly (9ft+ @ 17 seconds) is due to roll in so I'm looking forward to surfing the West Coast spots over the Easter Weekend.

Adios hombres..


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 14, 2008, 05:30:39 pm
Is Freights on the west coast? do you know Mitch, from the Gun Club? have a good one....
Fistral, 1 ft and very clean,,,,
Want to go to El Salividor
Falling, Other peoples piss is better for you, thats what my misses sez anywaze.
"I can take about an hour, on the tower of power, as long as I gets a little golden shower"... name that tune...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 16, 2008, 10:29:24 pm
Freights is South Coast, below the airport and a good longboard wave. We don't know Mitch as we tend to stay at Bathsheba away from the busy South but know Mark, Hoggy and other locals here on the East Coast.  It's been small and choppy the last couple of days but it still beats cold water and working....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 17, 2008, 12:10:14 pm
Her brother is comming over tonight, look out, big Ben Baird is about!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 18, 2008, 10:32:21 pm
The forecast for the next three days is mental... Thursday looks like 12ft at 17 seconds... time to seek shelter on the West Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 20, 2008, 09:38:06 pm
Biggest swell on record they reckon! Parlours is going to be the main one, going to hook up to smokeys web cam at Bathshebas 2moro, Ben and Matt Capell n co are all out to hit this, they going off b4 they left!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 24, 2008, 02:46:53 pm
The East Coast was unrideable from Wednesday night through to Saturday lunchtime.  Bathsheba bay was closing out completely way outside of Tent Bay, Parlors and Soup Bowl with huge sucking monsters.  Barclays Park further North turned into an enormous never before seen Left Hand Point Break that could have been ridden with a tow board had there been anywhere safe to launch a jet ski.  The pic below shows Bathsheba on Thursday morning....

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3294/2358241668_f28d2f3683.jpg?v=0)

The West Coast was going off from Wednesday to Saturday... more pics and a full trip report sometime this week. We are flying home tonight....  :(

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 25, 2008, 10:56:18 am
Yeah, Been on a downer since we have been back!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2008, 10:10:12 am
Managed one post work session before clocks change. Got in Wednesday nght, shitty and high tide when we got in, but got better as the tide dropped. Really learning to love the Fish, got some good lefts on it. New X-Cel 5:4 wetty and 3 finger gloves are the shit. Only got cold changing afterwards in the dark. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 29, 2008, 10:43:49 am
Last two days have been allright!!! woke up to The Cribber pounding the rocks this morning,it cross shore should get a bit better if the wind backs down, tis 7 ft at Fistral, and about 5ft in the bay!!! bit cross shore. Its still fackin cold though!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2008, 10:23:50 am
Sat, 4ft too offshore!!! good for nose riding, did an off the top, and the board just flew away!!! Cribber is still on...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 31, 2008, 02:47:54 pm
Yesterday (Sunday) evening just after low (if it can be described as that!) tide..  North Coast, Exmoor .. Devon.  You all know the spot.....  boulder bottom left hand point break!  (Haven't been in for weeks, very focused on bouldering at the mo...)  Sun was shining, epic sunset and to top it all wind turns straight off shore...... perfection peeling down the reef like a machine....  As you dream this spot to be and what a back drop when you're waiting on your wave.  Straight in my mate takes off on one and disappears for ages...... before appearing back in the line up with the biggest grin on his face...  "I think that's the longest wave I've ever had!"...  I lost count of the number of turns I did on my first wave!  Session continued in this manner with only the occasional shut down.  My final wave just went on and on and on.  It felt like the right moment to get out and besides I couldn't face another long paddle back round to the line up!  Just thought I'd share the stoke of when it all comes together.  The bouldering at this spot is superb as well...  Good times!   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2008, 03:25:34 pm
Aberdeen was producing on a good southerly swell yesterday, good for the regular footers for a change. Nice sunny weather too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 31, 2008, 06:45:19 pm
Good to see some waves coming in when the clocks change. Always feels like turning a corner into Spring... I didn't surf mind but it's only 40 days 'til I go to Indo  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2008, 09:20:54 pm
FD shout if you are up this way any time between now and then. Would love to do an Indo trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 01, 2008, 01:43:44 pm
Actually me and Mrs FD might be up over the weekend of the 12th (wknd after next) and I'll be there until the 18th.  Dave has one of my boards in storage and I'll bring a wettie depending on the forecast. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 01, 2008, 02:05:00 pm
Cool, let me know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 08:31:09 am
Bustin down the door, Rabbit, Good Book!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on April 03, 2008, 11:48:37 am
Tried that there stand-up paddle surfing last night for the first time. I have windsurfed for over 20 yrs and surfed for 14 years and was expecting it to be a breeze. Er... NO. Firkin desperate. Total newbie stage. It was a really nice day 4-5ft glassy, and even sunny. Perhaps a bit big, but I paddled out on my belly with the paddle under me. Wobbling around out back was kind of ok (fell in about every 2 mins), but steering and turning to get on a wave was gnarly and trying to steer an 11'6'' when on the wave was a giggle. All in all, can't be arsed to go back to a newbie stage in another sport. I'll stick to surf and windsurf. 
Just thought I'd let you know if anyone else was thinking of becoming the new Lard Laird Hamilton. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 03, 2008, 12:19:13 pm
I watched a couple of guys in Barbados stand up paddle surfing who were pretty good at it and coping well with 4 to 5 ft conditions and doing some nice drop-knee with paddle turns.  But I'm not entirely convinced by it to be honest...

I can see the attraction in certain places; in Waikiki for example there are about a dozen breaks from Diamond Head up to Ala Moana's and a lot of the old surfing tradition there is to start at Diamond Head and paddle North catching a ride at each break.  I did this one day on a big open ocean paddle board that a friend lent me and it was great fun, tiring and going from break to break means you aren't hogging the waves.  There's also outrigger canoeists suring out there too so someone doing the stand-up paddle boarding is kind of a development from the longboarding/waterman tradition and would allow one to link up rides between reefs like the old beach boys used to do with their Blake era hollow boards.

However, I can't think of many (any?) places in the UK where there's a similar break topography and whilst I'm not advocating water craft fascism I just think a stand-up paddle board in the UK is a bit kooky.  Like going clean aid climbing at Millstone or wearing a Homer Simpson tie at work...  :shrug:



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 03, 2008, 12:34:00 pm
Like going clean aid climbing at Millstone  :shrug:


Whats that you say (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=37408)?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 10:24:02 pm
Dunno! few people round this way are on it, I am keen to train and get good for the severn bore around Sept! Tim Mellors is showing of at the mo, and Salidita some guy from Montauk was on it, this place is good to go as the outer reefs are to eppie to Long board, the goat boater did ok!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 10:25:41 pm
But I am captin Kook!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on April 03, 2008, 10:38:04 pm
Read Hunter S Thompons' CURSE OF LONO

A rare but re-issued (and not so rare, but pricy & worth it) A2 format book w/ Ralph Steadman full colour illustrations.  The madness of the text loosly follows the last journey of Cook and has some interesting parallels w/ Thompson and Steadmans' coverage of the Honolulu marathon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 11:17:09 pm
Will do!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 09, 2008, 06:11:48 pm
You chaps no much about surf in soloman islands or possibly east timor?? found a few bits and bobs on line. potential for work on three month basis.would be keen to surf as well!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jerry Morefat on April 09, 2008, 07:32:32 pm
Soloman islands are pretty knarly 'out back' from my experience. I'd take your foamy back to Sennin if I were you Ben.  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 10, 2008, 05:19:28 pm
HA HA HA Barrack. we'll call it quits then. Climb next week.? Actualy soloman islands do look pretty gnarly.. political unrest etc. Could be a bit of an adventure. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on April 10, 2008, 07:59:15 pm
HA HA HA Barrack. we'll call it quits then. Climb next week.? Actualy soloman islands do look pretty gnarly.. political unrest etc. Could be a bit of an adventure. 

Ben,

do some work you loafing fool.



I'm not jealous





no




really





DoH!

BTW, you got that Patriot off yr old man yet?? You got some trails to do dude  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 12, 2008, 01:17:45 pm
Ha ha.... I will pay the price for this loafing for sure! fun at the mo tho! Yep ill bring the bike up.. you should see me on a downhill trail tho. Complete lack of control. not my strongest discipline for sure... generally end up twisting/tweaking something every session. and been a few years since ive been out. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2008, 07:06:21 pm
(http://www.surferspath.com/mmw/140408/mmw.jpg)
this is just to good not to share.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 14, 2008, 07:15:02 pm
Thats got to be Pipeline??? 2nd reef?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2008, 07:18:33 pm
must be 2nd reef!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 14, 2008, 07:25:13 pm
I would love to watch the pipe masters, its the closest I will ever get to being on it!!! do not think many Brits charge it!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2008, 07:29:44 pm
i'd pay alot of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2008, 07:40:52 pm
i'd pay alot of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.

Almost this time last year, i was in the Santa Cruz area, so thought id go and find Mavericks. Not that hard if you do a search on google! Got there and it was pretty flat. I was gutted. I kind of expected pounding 40 footers.... Nice place though and even when flat has a spooky feeling about the place!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 14, 2008, 10:23:34 pm
I'd pay alto of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.

You know, Its absolutely fantastic audio stimulation, combined with adrenaline and fear when that metallic clattering impact of the lip is detonating towards you. A five foot wave makes this, Imagine the double figure ones???
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 15, 2008, 08:36:16 am
Biggest waves I have seen were at Victoria Bay near George in SA. Usually a great point break, but was closing out right across the bay and pounding. Walked out to the point to get close (torrential rain) and one wave hit the sea wall (2 ft wide stone and concrete) which promptly collapsed. Amazing to see.

(http://www.kapstadt.de/images/gardenvictoriabay_510.jpg)

Vic Bay on a mellow day. By parents have just moved to 10 mins away.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 15, 2008, 12:31:43 pm
Biggest I have seen was in the Hurricane swell, Sept, 2006, (Gold Rush #1).
Zorbas outside, perfect A frame. Pumping with the offshore howling.... no one rode it that day, and the sth wst big wave crew where all out!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 20, 2008, 05:29:47 pm
New board, 10.o Gordon + Smith Californian tri stringer, 50 50 rails, bit heavy...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2008, 04:06:28 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 23, 2008, 03:22:38 pm
When I click on the link my e-mail browser opens... ???
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2008, 04:00:44 pm
I have no idea how i did that, or if that was even possible?

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg)

Second attempt
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 24, 2008, 09:15:00 am
Ah.. I saw that had been published and will get around to reading it.  I just hope the author has done a proper job and explored some of Dora's clearly unpleasant character flaws as well as his talent.  He's an interesting character....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 24, 2008, 12:55:40 pm
Thought I'd talk about surfing in the right place for a change.

Llantwitt local Nate Phillips has been known to charge Pipe and others spots in Hawaii..

Can anyone confirm or deny that Llantwit Major is like a crap mirror version of Lynmouth?  Heard it was classic on it's day been there when swell was too small and the set up didn't look as good as Lyndaka or were my eyes decieving me.  All my relatives are in South Wales so always take my board just in case, normally go to the Gower though.

Got up at six today, to take advantage of swell and southerly winds at ....... you'll never guess where...... Lynmouth.  Solid 3 to 4 ft and peachy clean 2 others in, wind switched west and ruined it by nine.  Who needs exotic locations when you can get perfection and quiet waves for 2 hours before work?  (OK so I had to wait several weeks!)
A chap arrived at nine, he didn't need to ask, just saw the smile on my face and drew his own conclusion.  He drove away cursing about not getting up early enough! The early bird catches the worm. :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2008, 01:29:54 pm
When I used to work in S Wales I stopped in at Ogmore and Llan Major once or twice to check them out, but never saw them really working that well. Enough to inspire me to get in, put it that way. Not seen it in a decent swell so can't confirm quality, but you would suppose it would be a bit better known if it was as good. Got Rest Bay on a nice swell once or twice, but usually ended up at Llangenith or occasionally at Caswell if it was big (quite busy when it is) or Horton in huge storm swell (westerly is Offshore there).

I'm lucky enough to work 20 min walk from the  beach and work flexi hours, so can often get dawnies in, and catch Sunrise on the East Coast. Just a pity it's Aberdeen.

Regarding our earlier goofy / reg discussion, my girlfirend is the only goof I know who likes to ride backhand. Guess it's from too many years of snowboarding. Works for me though, as it means we both prefer rights!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 25, 2008, 03:07:01 pm
Yeh! It's great to be be close to the surf..  10 minutes from my house to Croyde (the finest beach break in the UK?!). We can afford to be choosy about when to surf, I feel sorry for people that book a week off work, come down here and end up surfing slop because they've no other choice!  I work flexi too, so can work around tides etc..  also handy for climbing and day light hours in the winter!!

I do like going right and have been known to pull into the odd back hand barrel here and there...  particularly into the mystery right at Lynmouth when it's working it barrels splendidly... However, it's so much easier to generate speed on your forehand and you can see right down the line which makes lining up lip smackage and floaters so much easier.  Plus you don't have to muck about grabbing rails in a pigdog stance on powerful waves on your forehand!!!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2008, 03:17:49 pm
10 minutes from my house to Croyde (the finest beach break in the UK?!)


You jest surely? Finest by what criteria? Consistency? Quality? Crowds?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 28, 2008, 05:10:20 pm
Fistral fired five foot flawless.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 28, 2008, 09:30:56 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 28, 2008, 09:33:21 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 02, 2008, 06:17:27 pm
Err! Shark attack at Troncones!!! American on two week surfing vacation gets wacked on day two! killed, Tiger Shark!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 02, 2008, 06:32:20 pm
Correction, Two whites have been spotted! LA times are running a story!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 02, 2008, 06:33:49 pm
Underwater times.com for a picture of the 15" chomp out of the guys rt thigh (its gruesome)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2008, 09:01:33 am
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested

Sounds good. Got Eddie would go,.... Captain Zero, or Magic Carpet if you want a swap.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 05, 2008, 03:28:26 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.

Where are you going?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 05, 2008, 08:57:49 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.

Where are you going?

Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 05, 2008, 09:05:20 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested

Sounds good. Got Eddie would go,.... Captain Zero, or Magic Carpet if you want a swap.


Check Pm
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 06, 2008, 11:14:01 am
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.

Nice to have such a flexible schedule!  Oldfella from off here is now in Oz but was planning a G-Land trip sometime this Summer so he might have some info on where to stay.  I've heard Nias and the Hikano's were quite damaged by the two Tsunami's and aren't what they used to be... maybe Laykey might be a better choice?  I'm off on a 2 week boat trip to the Banyaks and Simulue a week on Wednesday so have been watching the charts and weather forecast with interest.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 07, 2008, 11:28:16 pm
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.

Nice to have such a flexible schedule!  Oldfella from off here is now in Oz but was planning a G-Land trip sometime this Summer so he might have some info on where to stay.  I've heard Nias and the Hikano's were quite damaged by the two Tsunami's and aren't what they used to be... maybe Laykey might be a better choice?  I'm off on a 2 week boat trip to the Banyaks and Simulue a week on Wednesday so have been watching the charts and weather forecast with interest.

aghh G land.. i can dream. I think i would have delusions of grandeur attempting to surf it when things are pumping! leaving on the 16th. I think i will hunker down around bali for a bit and get my paddling arms back first.. Im off on the 16th. Reckon there will be plenty of swell......but hopefully not too much?! hehe
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 08, 2008, 08:03:19 am
so when you leaving :)? I'm well jealous.

Looking into buying a longboard for practically flat N Sea summer months. Not sure wether to go for a custom board (probably Martin McQueen) or maybe get a cheapie Take Off, not decided.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 08, 2008, 10:26:19 am
16th May? We're heading out on the 14th but we'll be a few hundred K's away in Northwest Sumatra on this boat http://www.banyakislands.com/ (http://www.banyakislands.com/) for a couple of weeks getting some uncrowded perfection.  If you were hoping for an easy start you might be in for a shock judging by Surflines forecast from this morning. :-)

Extended Forecast Outlook:Note: all dates and times are local Indonesian time. Surfline offers this forecast on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The South Indian Ocean is having another active fall season (only after a very strong summer storm track) and we are expecting the storm track to stay active. We had a small but fairly strong fetch in the SW Indian Ocean and this looks to send in some building head high plus SW groundswell for Thursday, the 8th, and then we will be expecting mostly chest to head high plus SW swell into Friday, May 9th. We had a solid storm system down under earlier in the week and we will see some building longer period SW groundswell for late Friday and this swell will peak into Saturday and stay strong into Sunday morning with head high plus to double overhead surf from the Mentawais to Bali and the premier SW facing reefs should see sets in the triple overhead range.

Further out, we will see a few more strong but smaller scale storm systems move through down under over the next several days and our next SW groundswell will build in on Monday for Java with more head high plus surf and getting stronger into the afternoon with sets running around the double overhead mark and this should stay strong into early Tuesday for Eastern Java/Bali. Another solid SW groundswell will most likely be in the water for Wednesday with some larger surf and then fading but still head high plus to overhead surf would settle in for Thursday, May 15th. The long range models are showing one more strong system down under and this would set up some more solid SW to SSW swell for around late Thursday/Friday, May 16th."


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 08, 2008, 11:32:27 am
16th May? We're heading out on the 14th but we'll be a few hundred K's away in Northwest Sumatra on this boat http://www.banyakislands.com/ (http://www.banyakislands.com/) for a couple of weeks getting some uncrowded perfection.  If you were hoping for an easy start you might be in for a shock judging by Surflines forecast from this morning. :-)

Extended Forecast Outlook:Note: all dates and times are local Indonesian time. Surfline offers this forecast on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The South Indian Ocean is having another active fall season (only after a very strong summer storm track) and we are expecting the storm track to stay active. We had a small but fairly strong fetch in the SW Indian Ocean and this looks to send in some building head high plus SW groundswell for Thursday, the 8th, and then we will be expecting mostly chest to head high plus SW swell into Friday, May 9th. We had a solid storm system down under earlier in the week and we will see some building longer period SW groundswell for late Friday and this swell will peak into Saturday and stay strong into Sunday morning with head high plus to double overhead surf from the Mentawais to Bali and the premier SW facing reefs should see sets in the triple overhead range.

Further out, we will see a few more strong but smaller scale storm systems move through down under over the next several days and our next SW groundswell will build in on Monday for Java with more head high plus surf and getting stronger into the afternoon with sets running around the double overhead mark and this should stay strong into early Tuesday for Eastern Java/Bali. Another solid SW groundswell will most likely be in the water for Wednesday with some larger surf and then fading but still head high plus to overhead surf would settle in for Thursday, May 15th. The long range models are showing one more strong system down under and this would set up some more solid SW to SSW swell for around late Thursday/Friday, May 16th."


Ha ha you have provoked me into more pool sessions in preparation for the madness of indo. That website is rather neat! looks a top outfit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 13, 2008, 06:20:57 pm
Live Billabong Pro from Chopes - streaming now on the Billabong Site.  The swell is small but it's still cool to watch live surfing from the other side of the world.

http://www.billabongpro.com/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on May 17, 2008, 10:01:12 pm
ahh, the joy of being in the water again after months.
today i made the big move to the sea, the van loaded with tons of furnitures, climbing stuff, clothes and obviously a red, fast, 9'2" long.
we got to the sea and was quite flat at the harbour, but i know my beaches and went straight to the rocky point. ta daa, 3 feet, clean, off shore.
it's been a very nice way to start my stay here!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2008, 08:27:54 am
I think it can only be a positive sign that it was mean to be. Bon Chance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 26, 2008, 10:45:37 am
2nd Fatal attack 10 miles north of Troncones, no attacks since 1976 on the whole pacific coast, then two in the space of a month.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on May 28, 2008, 08:10:49 am
absolutely clean this morning, sadly seen from the car on the way to work.
must check weather forecast more often.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 28, 2008, 08:29:02 am
And get up earlier! Hoping for first dawnie of the year tomorrow. If wind drops enough.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 28, 2008, 01:22:43 pm
It's that time of year again... The water's warming nicely and rubber is being shed..  No more hood, gloves or booties down this way now...  No more ice cream head and getting flushed is actually quite a pleasureable experience.  Would someone please switch on the waves  :furious: 

I find myself getting excited about the 10sec 4ft swell, with light offshores, that is arriving tommorow, low tide Croyde sunset session is on, if I crouch up really small I might just squeeze into a mini summer barrel. 

Summer, Can Beat: piddle waves, super extended flat spells, masses of straight liners repeatedly dropping-in left, right and centre, crappy drivers who can't reverse blocking the lanes, litter on the beaches, crowds, crowds and more crowds, sunburn, stressed out locals getting aggitated with everyone (sorry  :whistle:), ........

Thinking positive..

Summer, Can't beat: mellow waves, warm(ish) water, chatting and banter with mates 'out the back', trying to rip up 2 footers, chasing the peaks as the tide advances, being in the right spot, watching the sunset over the sea, familiar faces smiling coz their stoked, dawn patrols, surfing till it's too dark to see, those one or two 'special' surprise swells.   :)

Bring it on!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 29, 2008, 08:22:16 pm
like the one wacking Fistral now...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on May 30, 2008, 08:17:43 am
mega wind swell getting in this morning. if the wind drops monolith and rich will have their fire baptism today.
and if the wind drops it will fire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 30, 2008, 11:40:25 am
all time waves in cornwall last night and this morning. Porthtowan was pumping last night and I heard rumours of stand up arms spread barrels to be had at Perranporth. Times like these you realise climbing fitness has NO bearing on paddle fitness, the only solution is to get in the water more!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 30, 2008, 12:13:00 pm
Penhale and Crantock also killing it! Fistral is a bit fat on the high!!! heading to Watergate on low later! corner should be going of its nut! then heading north to meet climber types, any knowlege of venues that may be worth a look, Woolacombe way???
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 30, 2008, 01:05:21 pm
bouldering venues or surfing venues?  plenty of both up that way, waves forecast to stay around over the weekend but getting smaller i think so might end up being a longboard wave in devonshire
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 30, 2008, 03:45:01 pm
then heading north to meet climber types, any knowlege of venues that may be worth a look, Woolacombe way???

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9143.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9143.0.html)??????
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 01, 2008, 07:37:38 pm
Yeah, been good, did Croyde...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 02, 2008, 05:07:12 pm
Aye! Croyde was in good form Thursday through Friday.. Had some excellent sessions on both days..  Shame there wasn't some spring low-tides to make the most of the swell.  Swell had weakened to piddle again by Saturday
By no means 'all time' but pretty fun all the same..
Wednesday and Thursday look promising this week, happy surfing folks...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2008, 10:37:14 pm
Got in at Aberdeen on Thursday night. Cleanish, but crowded by Abs standards (first decent surf in about 6 weeks!).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on June 02, 2008, 10:54:29 pm
Had a good session on a rented bodyboard on Labadi beach (Accra town beach), Ghana when I was out there with work last week. Got an afternoon off so I made the most of it. BIG but friendly, warm waves, that were the kind that deposited you high and dry every time. Sweet. I even got a round of applause from a crowd of locals for one landing, now you don't get that very often at Hell's Mouth!

Didn't see any of these shenanigans (but the waves were a lot bigger)
(http://www.ghanaweb.biz/GHP/img/pics/news/55083011.full.jpg)
(http://www.ghanaweb.biz/GHP/img/pics/news/17878568.optim.jpg)
(http://www.ghanaweb.biz/GHP/img/pics/news/49203654.optim.jpg)
Check this dude
(not my pics)


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 06, 2008, 11:26:16 pm
I've been back from Sumatra for a week and grappling with a dreadful jetlag and the remnants of a sickness virus that took hold throughout the entire boat.  There's a full online photo album, video and journal on the way but here's a couple of tasters..

This one is me riding my 6'5 Single Fin Egg at Turtle Point on a typical day during the trip.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3002/2556409669_58d48e9cba.jpg)

Here's another one of moi riding a 6'3 Quad on a very (very, very) fast and very (very.. sharp coral) shallow right in the Bay of Plenty.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3092/2556411533_41c0189ea7.jpg?v=0)



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 09, 2008, 08:11:22 am
I never noticed you were goofy before?? Or have I just forgotten the fact. Good trip in general?

You have missed little here. Had a go on a mates longboard in Aberdeen last week, marvellous fun. Sadly he had great fun on it too, and has now decided not to sell it anymore.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 09, 2008, 04:14:34 pm
Lurvely looking waves in Sumatra FD, shame about the sickness going round must have taken the shine off the situation.
North Devon hasn't been serving up much juice recently, maybe a little dawn session tommor before the onshores kick in... 

Got in at a secret reef, on a reasonable swell last week and found the only big rock sticking up high enough to cause a problem.  Badly bruised lower back and hurt pride  :spank:  Should have pulled out sooner but the wave kept on opening up.  Had the day off work iced and rested.  Bending over, standing up and sitting down all became an 'issue' for a few days.  Fortunately things appear to be repairing quite well and I am now mobile again.  Lesson learnt it could've been v. nasty, be careful out there folks!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on June 17, 2008, 04:37:33 pm
joel tudor's life: no wonder he smiles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qLqUYf_Aw8
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 23, 2008, 10:30:25 am
Had two good sessions on the new longboard. Saturday at Banff was good, started on beach to get hang of board then moved over to Point. Good, but wind picked up now and again. Had first dawnie if the year today (how slack is that - solstice has come and gone already). Good at first, but wind messed it up later. Loving the new board, great fun. It's got a big middle fin and two little ones. Had a go on it without the little fins this morning, and found it much looser (?) managed to get it to turn more and get back up the waves rather than going straight across.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 23, 2008, 02:20:02 pm
Nice one Chris... try changing the fin position in the box too (Back - better for nose riding and will be more tracky/stable; Forward - Loose) You'll be surprised what a difference it makes to the handling of the board.  I look forward to having a go next time my Aberdeen visits coincides with a swell.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on June 24, 2008, 06:49:55 am
Nias still works for sure.
sorry to hear about sickness.  i got laid low for a week with the hershey squits- rapidly turning to rice water coming out of the back end.. ilness in hot countries is not funny.
surfed turtles in west java- then nias. powerful wave bit too much for my limited surf skills. snapped prize pin tail , fin through thigh and coral scarred feet came as a result. To say the locals are weird is an understatement. glad to hear you are all getting swell back in blighty :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 25, 2008, 06:55:52 pm
Glad to hear you're having a good trip. Have you ever read the amazing story of the discovery of Nias called 'Guardians of the Point' from the The Surfers Journal. It's a really extradordinary tale and one you must read if you've now been there.  I bumped into two guys in Medan on our way back and they'd just come from Nias and said there was 70 people in the water at times!!!

I'm still editing pictures and video but will be done soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on June 26, 2008, 08:00:38 am
oh i heard about that.. would like to get my mitts on it. Some of the locals were telling me that the local chief put a curse on the pioneer surfers there.. and lo and behold they all keeled over.

hmmm the crowds.. definately a problem. + the general level of surfing was pretty high as can be expected. I was there for just short of month and i think 70 folk in the water was an exaggeration. It seemed to ebb and flow each week. a lot of crews would leave on the same day freeing up some space. I guess the underlying problem is that all the attention is focussed on one wave with exceptionally easy access from the accomodation. For sure there is more waves in the area but sourcing good and fairly priced transport is annoyingly difficult on NIas.

like your pics fella
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 28, 2008, 05:58:57 pm
This week i have been mostly surfin Joss Bay!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SteveM on July 14, 2008, 10:01:12 am
What advice would you give to a complete beginner heading to California?

We're heading out for a bit of a roadtrip around the Sierras but want to spend the last week or so on the beach. My girlfriend's surfed before but I've never played on anything larger than a bodyboard. Always fancied the idea of learning though, so I'm looking for somewhere suitable for a complete beginner - any recommendations? We're flying out of San Francisco so I'm naturally biased towards somewhere in the Bay area. Santa Cruz was mentioned?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2008, 09:15:14 am
I've got the Stormrider's Guide, can have a look tonight. No personal experience though. Santa Cruz is an obvious option, but the water get's colder the further north you are. You could go to Half Moon Bay, just south of SF,  Mavericks looks good! :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 15, 2008, 04:03:10 pm
Santa Cruz is a great place and has loads of places to surf up and down the coast. The main centre of attraction is Steamer Lane but that's not for beginners so you're best going to the beaches nearby.  You'll find loads of hire shops and tuition should you intend to take lessons.  Further South there are more remote beaches and breaks...

Before you go buy a copy of 'Caught Inside' by Dan Duane which I've mentioned earlier in the thread. It's an account of an ex Yosemite climbing bum moving to Santa Cruz and taking a year out to learn to surf. It's a beautiful book...

Ben
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 16, 2008, 07:41:07 am
A point break like Swamis would be a better option, if a little further,,,
Or Malibu...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 16, 2008, 04:00:34 pm
A point break like Swamis would be a better option, if a little further,,,
Or Malibu...


Sorry Idol I totally disagree... Swami's and Malibu are mega crowded (I've surfed the latter but not the former) and a beginner would never get a wave. He's also flying in and out of San Fran so why drive all the way to LA and San Diego ? :shrug:



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 16, 2008, 11:17:25 pm
Mega crowded for a beginner, would be better than soft core surfin hard floor rules,,, IE: steamers, I have only surfed Huntingdon and Trestles, and would not recommend doing a drowning fish impression further north than Santa Cru, and its obvious big fish problem at the mo. but, my point is, if you are around Cali, do the equivilent of going to Stanage Edge,,, more crowds, more wave's, more fun and tollerence? just an opinon< no direction intended.com
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 17, 2008, 06:22:46 pm
You are right though, its a long way from there for brits, the yanks see it as a day trip!!! anywhere will be good!, any one been to the Maldives?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SteveM on July 18, 2008, 08:55:28 am
Thanks for the ideas folks. I'm off to town to find a bookshop - figure I can read the relevant section of the Stormrider guide before they throw me out for folding the page corners over and scribbling in the margin. Will also have a look for Caught Inside - I need some holiday reading.

Have been browsing for images and we're definitely going to stop off at Mavericks, just for the spectacle cause it looks way way too big for these cajones.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 18, 2008, 11:19:29 am
Good lad.   You'll be lucky to see Mavericks breaking at all in the Summer as the large swells don't begin to arrive until November really.  Also it's unlikely that you'd find anywhere suitable to surf at all on the Mid California coast if it was breaking as everywhere else would be closed out or too crowded at the sheltered spots.

Go to surfline.com and magic seaweed.com for more info on all the local spots, you'll find swell forecasts, tides and lots of other info.

If you do get the bug, make sure you buy a board when in the US as they are helluvalot cheaper out there than here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2008, 04:01:02 pm
Lovely dawnie this am. Sunny skies, no wind and fun small peeling 2ft ish waves, perfect for longboard. In water from 7:30 - 9:15 or so, pretty much on my own (one other guy in, but on a different peak). Really didn't want to go to work.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 23, 2008, 04:52:39 pm
Yep yep! In for the dawnie at C r o y d e this morning on my freshly repaired 6'' Celtic Conncetions board (it got a little smashed up after taking off down the cobblestone beach on a particularly windy day this winter, lucky not to have taken someone's head off!)...  Anyhow beautiful weather, warm water and a nice little swell..  :thumbsup:

Session ended abruptly by a savage longboarder late take off drop in from hell...  The guy decided to take off with the lip and land on me whilst I'm flying out from under the curl.  I'm in one piece, my board however is smashed up again and unrideable.  'Oh Sorry mate' was the response, I spent ages fixing the thing and first time out it gets smashed again.   :furious: 

What is the deal when something like this happens is he liable for the damage caused... Or is it a case of don't worry about it mate it's just one of those things?? (Which is pretty much what I said after sending some expletives in his direction).  Judging by the shiny new log he was riding, he could probably afford to buy me a new 6'' ten times over!

Board is back on the Doctors table and I am building a healthy prejudice towards loggers...  So come on defend the noble art of longboarding because at the moment I feel like (WARNING rash generalisations coming up) loggers are the following....    dirty stinking snakers that hog waves by catching them way outside
                   fat mid life crisis types with all the gear and no idea
                   unable to change direction anytime this century
                   and finally drop in artists..

I am sure you loggers on here are none of the above but what would convince me to buy a longboard. (Apart from a desire to mow down all ahead of me>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2008, 05:04:53 pm
Riding a longboard made me surf better on my shortboard.  Loads of shortboarders are far too static on their boards keeping their feet in the same place all the time.  To surf well you need to move them up and down to trim the board. I didn't get this until I rode a longboard...

Riding a longboard is fun on small days.. as long as you don't hog all the waves.

Nose riding is fantastic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2008, 08:03:40 am
What FD said.

 
Quote
So come on defend the noble art of longboarding because at the moment I feel like (WARNING rash generalisations coming up) loggers are the following....    dirty stinking snakers that hog waves by catching them way outside
                   fat mid life crisis types with all the gear and no idea
                   unable to change direction anytime this century
                   and finally drop in artists..

Will be treated with the contemp it deserves and ignored completely. It's summer in Devon, the kooks are out. Deal with it.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3291/2690388872_633d124dd6.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 24, 2008, 06:18:42 pm
Quote
Will be treated with the contemp it deserves and ignored completely. It's summer in Devon, the kooks are out. Deal with it.

Come on this isn't ignoring Chris... You bit...  Must of hit a raw nerve...Still I'll get my coat............  and put it on backwards. :lol:

Quote
Riding a longboard made me surf better on my shortboard.  Loads of shortboarders are far too static on their boards keeping their feet in the same place all the time.  To surf well you need to move them up and down to trim the board. I didn't get this until I rode a longboard...

Riding a longboard is fun on small days.. as long as you don't hog all the waves.

Nose riding is fantastic.

FD this is what I'm looking for... sure I started on a bigger board but dropped down very quickly and never really considered riding long again, the idea of enjoying smaller days is mildly appealing (although given the choice I'd rather go climbing), improving my surfing is definitely of interest and I want to know more about nose riding why so fantastic??  Speed?  Position?  What would be the ultimate loggers wave?? Rincon? Malibu?

I love to ride shorter boards because they handle steeper more powerful waves better, they fit in low tide Croyde barrels better, you can generate tremendous speed, you can rotate on a pin head, you can duck dive easily and they fit in my car nicely!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 25, 2008, 08:45:42 am
Well it was a tedious hackneyed stereotype wasn't it.

I was cynical too, until I had a go on one. Here in Aberdeen if you want to have any surfing fitness at all, you get out on whatever waves you get, especially in summer, and they are a good way of having some fun on waves that would leave you frustrated and disappointed otherwise, if you were trying to use a shortboard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 27, 2008, 12:18:22 pm
Tell you what,,, we all the same! the tools may differ, but its us and the wave thats the same...
the longboard is traditional, its also classy, all boards are allowed, but the 9.0 is me... I identify with the fustration, we get all the waves, and look good.
Gays on trays,,, Loggers,,, whatever!
Just surfed Joss bay (far E coast), classic two day swell, then surfed Widemouth and Fistral,,,
Surf rage, havent seen it in years!!!
Its actully been a fuckin great summer...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 28, 2008, 08:13:52 am
Glad it's good there, it's been terrible here on the (proper) far E Coast. And not much hope on the horizon either.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 29, 2008, 11:10:29 am
Sorry, know i am a pain, allow me to spray...
Noseriding!
recently been back out on the 9.4, fully progresive pin tail, concave nosed rebel board (my first), Croyde about 6 weeks ago... was doin these amazing take offs, like paddling... take off,pop up into full fake five (slide to the nose, all crouched up), slide hard let the tail kick into a helicopter, almost walk to the tail again and allow the board to correct itself, and get every one to hoot....
also practicing fins first take offs...
The Longboard, Liquid Grit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 30, 2008, 11:25:00 am
Quote
Well it was a tedious hackneyed stereotype wasn't it.

I did warn you!  :)
Quote
WARNING rash generalisations coming up

Now then......  Having had a little time to get over the trashing of my beloved 6''.  I managed to get out on a couple of small clean days at Croyde and Combesgate.  Inspired by you people and an article I read which suggested trying to surf a longboard like a shortboard on small days, I actually took out something over 7'' for a spin.  The theory being that when you drop down again your shortboard will feel like grease lightening! The suggestion is not to do any longboarder tricks ie. cross stepping, drop knee turns etc... rather try to carve it up like you were shortboarding.  (I dug out a 7'' 6 Bonzer from the depths of my garage, big centre fin, two 'bat-wings and a channel bottom).  It made the most out of the conditions and dare I say it?  I had lots of fun on a day I'd normal sack surfing off.  I'll still be on my shorties on bigger days but am definitely more inspired to get out on something biggger on those smaller days. 

Sometimes it takes a knock to make you look at yourself and figure whether your anger/frustration is pointing in the right direction.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2008, 12:24:31 pm
The Warning doesnt make it ok?

What if I put a warning like: WARNING : BIG INSULT COMING UP

and then said; Granticus you're a cock, would that make it OK? (I don't think this of course, just an example).

Glad you enjoyed the experience, I wouldn't take my longboard out on a big day either, pain in the arse to get it out the back more than anything else! Vague promise of a small wave up here on the weekend, hopefully the fog is gone.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 30, 2008, 01:54:55 pm
Any of you guys been surfing in Munich?

Check these out...

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/22/27506981_8dacb2ea56.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cs___/27506981/)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3118/2620741990_41938680ce.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/hyperbuoy/2620741990/)
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/76/188720627_856c071c14.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/karolina_k/188720627/)
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1001/1490406116_e2b42d6a13.jpg?v=0) (http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1001/1490406116_e2b42d6a13.jpg?v=0)

Pretty strange place to go surfing, but I guess if you live that far inland and surf.

Tons more pics on flickr (http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=munich+surfer&ss=2&ct=6)

(apologies for posting same pics in two thread, couldn't decide which they belonged in).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2008, 02:15:57 pm
Quite a well known spot, not ridden it myself. It's even in Stormriders (or one of the guides). People even get boards made specially for the wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2008, 04:08:48 pm
When we were in Jackson Hole (well jackson) year before last we went into one of the shops to sort out a snow mobiling trip to Yellowstone. In the shop there was a surfboard stashed in the corner, and the guy saif they regularly surf standing waves in the rivers there in the summer too. I guess if you are that far from the sea you will surf anything.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 30, 2008, 04:15:06 pm
Thats all news to me (being a non-surfer) and sounds a bit crazy, but as you say if your land-locked you make do with what you can get.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 31, 2008, 11:17:26 am
Quote
The Warning doesnt make it ok?

What if I put a warning like: WARNING : BIG INSULT COMING UP

and then said; Granticus you're a cock, would that make it OK? (I don't think this of course, just an example).

I know Chris.. I was in a bad mood and I am beginning to come to terms with the fact that silly season has begun down here!!  I had to get my prejudices out there in order to confront my own demons. Plus it made me feel better and it's all about me you know. :guilty:

Just watched a freebie DVD that came with Wavelength has a little section on this standing wave in Germany, looks fun, especially if this is the only juice you can get.

Small swell and offshore/ish here today, out for more grockle dodging this arvo...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2008, 11:01:28 am
Had a top session at banff yesterday. Sunny skies, no wind and nice clean swells.Got in just as tide turned, and we had the beach pretty much to ourselves. Nice small peeling waves, perfect for logging and trying out noseriding. As tide dropped, point stared to work, got a couple of good rides, and was getting better as tide dropped, but had to cut session short on the promise of a sunday roast (such hardship).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 04, 2008, 11:37:01 am

Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester? The missus snapped her middle fin this weekend after my botched repair job  :guilty: so we could do with someone who knows what they're doing having a go this time.

The boards not worth much (I reclaimed it from the rubbish afetr a mate had chucked it do to said fin snapping) but if perfect for the missus (and me on small days).

Any ideas how much it would cost? I'm not a surfer as such, just a punter with a board clogging up the waves so haven't much of clue about these things!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2008, 12:07:01 pm
FD will have a better idea of what's in that area than I do, but I could lend you the "ding repair scriptures" if you want to find out how they recommend doing it and have another go yourself.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 04, 2008, 12:40:27 pm

That would be fantastic Chris! Cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2008, 12:57:22 pm
No worries. Check your pm. Just did a quick google though, and the info online is just about as good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 05, 2008, 12:58:40 pm
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...

Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 06, 2008, 02:55:39 pm
What do you lot reckon about this (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/7542151.stm)?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 06, 2008, 03:28:07 pm
Been discussed at length on surfing forums.

Therer are (as always) many sides to the story.

My thoughts;

(as an owner of one UK made glass fibre board, one SA made glass fibre board and one machine made Epoxy board from the east)

There are loads of shapers (some would say too many) and they vary in quality. Some no longer shape by hand, but rely on CNC machines, to do most of the shaping, so are in a way no better than machine produced boards in the east anyway. They rely on the reputation of having a "custom" board made, when in fact they are mass producing, and selling at custom prices. Hopefully if there is a squeeze then reputaion will win over and they will go under first. part of having a custom board made is being able to discuss what you want with the shaper and him hand crafting the board to your requirements. These shapers do not really give a toss about this and will try and convince you that the board you need is one they have made for you already.

It's not all about cost and quality, a lot of technology is going into these newer "pop-outs", allowing lighter and stronger boards to be made in factories. This technology requires bulk-production machinery, that is not available in the UK.

Also you could say it's part of the way of the world, and surf boards are going the way of skis, bikes, cars, tellys etc. In spite of this being a current news item, this is not something new, and has been happening for years.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 07, 2008, 04:43:44 pm
Quote
so we could do with someone who knows what they're doing having a go this time.

Sounds like your problem is solved but some advice from someone who spends a lot of time repairing (botching) boards. 

Glassed in fins are great for riding but a pain to repair. 
If the fin is snapped (ie... the fin itself is broken) better to replace with a new one.  If this is the case I would recomend installing plugs for FCS or similar, then next time you have a snapped fin you can just whip it out and wack in a new one.  Regardless of this you will need to use a sharp knife to cut away laminations and generally clean up around the fin area.  If you intend to glass one back in > you'll need to fill any holes and allow to cure, then install the fin using fibreglass cloth and resin (this is easier said then done, step by step guides can be found!)...  The simplest way would deffo be to cut away and clean up, then fill, then drill (large drill bit) holes to drop FCS plug units into, fill around plugs to secure, then re-glass the area using cloth to reinforce.  Sand down to a nice smooth finish... Heh presto, you can now interchange fins... Same process works with lock box etc... 

Alternatively return the old wreck to the skip where you found it and go buy a pop out BIC or something, good fun for small days and beginners etc...  The cost of fin repair, if you're paying someone, won't be far off what a second hand pop out will cost you anyway.  It's a tricky job and one not many will be keen to take on.  (I normally get a bottle of decent red wine for repairing friend's boards but for a repair like this I'd expect a case!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 08, 2008, 10:32:47 am
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...

Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.


Wow, FD, that'd be cool. My missus lives in West Didsbury (as do I knd of at the weekends) and am out in the peak regularly so could drop it off. The fin was lost to the sea so once I've got my hands on a new one I'll be in touch if that's ok. I've pm'd you.

Cheers!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 08, 2008, 10:37:56 am

Granticus,

I guess FCS are the way to go but both mine and my missus board are from a by-gone era before then I think! I realise it would maybe a good idea to ditch the board for a pop out but I'm loath to throw things away that can be repaired. Seems a real shame. The missus really like it as well, much prefers it to the bic's she's tried.

As it's the centre fin, I guess I'd have to drill into the stringer to fit FCS plugs? Is this cool? Will it shag the board?

On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards? Quite liked the look of a fat boy flyer for a first shortboard that goes in mushy/small waves. Good idea? My board knowledge is pretty poor.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 08, 2008, 02:16:23 pm
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...

Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.


Wow, FD, that'd be cool. My missus lives in West Didsbury (as do I knd of at the weekends) and am out in the peak regularly so could drop it off. The fin was lost to the sea so once I've got my hands on a new one I'll be in touch if that's ok. I've pm'd you.

Cheers!

You won't be dropping it off. You'll be mending it yourself under my supervision so you know what to do when it happens again.  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2008, 02:41:13 pm
You always want the be a guru didn't you?

(http://sam.mkbmemorial.com/bigwednesday/bigwed_4.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 08, 2008, 02:45:48 pm

You won't be dropping it off. You'll be mending it yourself under my supervision so you know what to do when it happens again.  :)

Even better! Got a fin in the mail. Genius! Thanks. ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 08, 2008, 03:12:00 pm
You always want the be a guru didn't you?

 ;D  Give a man a fish etc. etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 08, 2008, 04:58:10 pm
Quote
As it's the centre fin, I guess I'd have to drill into the stringer to fit FCS plugs? Is this cool? Will it shag the board?

Yep! Drilling the stringer is not a problem.. it is normal practice for FCS plugs...  Sounds like you're gonna be taken through the process with Mr FD Miagi  ..... 'wax on wax off'.....Let us know how it goes...

Love the fact that you intend to keep the old girl rolling!

Quote
On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards? Quite liked the look of a fat boy flyer for a first shortboard that goes in mushy/small waves. Good idea? My board knowledge is pretty poor.

O'shea boards are of a good standard no problems with that..  If you are dropping down to a shortboard something of the fatboy flyer ilk will be perfect.  You'll still need some volume in your board and the fatboy will provide this.  Don't be tempted to drop down to something that's 6'' or less and wafer thin, it will be too much too soon and you'll have a hard time of it.  I wouldn't go more than 1ft shorter than what you're currrently riding and make sure you still have some volume in whatever you get.  If you can get to try some different boards out even better..

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 08, 2008, 05:40:22 pm

On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards?

O'Shea boards are good.. I've been surfing North Wales since the mid 80's so have seen them develop from a garage outfit to full blown surf industry.  Graniticus is on the money about not being too hasty to go to a shortboard as you'll miss out on a lot of waves and a lot of learning. 

Fat Boy Flyers are OK but in some respects they are neither here nor there..  (This is just my opinion mind) FBF's were invented in the early to mid 90's when the choice of boards was limited and the shortboards were high performance oriented (narrow and thin and unrideable most of the time - I wasted many hours on one) so FBF's filled a spot in the market that was needed by the heavier and less regular surfers who didn't want to ride a longboard or mini-mal. 

These days there are so many options in that area of wide, higher volume boards you have much more choice.  Personally, I'd point someone who was feeling their way into surfing toward a 2+1 (big center fin, small side fins) performance mini-mal, an eggy single fin like a Magic Carpet type of thing or a bonzer type that Granticus was paddling last week. 

Anyway, come up and get your board fixed...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on August 08, 2008, 11:43:57 pm
Just had a 3 week Lleyn bonanza, weather was dodgy but we had a single afternoon at Porth Oer when the wave was getting huge (by our standards) and the locals were all in the water - it was messy, but big and regular, and the waves were going all the way onto the beach (me gyal almost took out a couple of dog walkers with the body board).

The bad bit was on the car park, tosspot wankers racing across it in Minis with music blaring, mouthing off and then laying on the beach playing guitars (but really, not able to very well) . Like they'd just watched Endless Summer and snorted a few lines of banger.

Put me right off- didn't want to associate with these little cunts for a start, and in the end didn't want to get in the water. Thought I'd get mullered on the body board, but of course Sade proved me wrong. last year she couldn't go in due to being mega preggers though, so I didn't mind too much.

I wasn't remotely psyched to bodyboard - but later wanted to be in the water, but not arsed about just rolling about on a bodyboard. I wanted to be out there with a big surfboard, just trying to surf, failing, but enjoying it loads more,  like every time I've borrowed one. Damn. Can't justify the expense so next year I might leave the bodyboard and forget about it altogether.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on August 11, 2008, 12:31:49 pm
hmmm any of you chaps seen the channel islands flick flow? Cant say i am a massive fan, however i am trying to track down the song used for currens montage.. cant get the tune outta my head!!! incubus bloc party??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 12, 2008, 06:00:25 pm
Fistrals firing at five foot!
The bay is OK!
Rip Curl Board Masters was Party Party,
just seen some pictures of The Cribber breaking last month.
Its been a great week end down ere!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 14, 2008, 08:13:55 am
Last night, out of the blue it all turned into a session of dreams. Ahhhh. Love it when it happens like that, no expectations, and suddenly head high glass, sunny, warm water and 2 people out. A couple of hours of heaven...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 14, 2008, 08:52:26 am
Nice, where were you in?

Looks like a nice small longboard wave this am in Aberdeen, not got car and board with me, as out on the piss tonight. Bugger.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 14, 2008, 10:54:23 am
hmmm any of you chaps seen the channel islands flick flow? Cant say i am a massive fan, however i am trying to track down the song used for currens montage.. cant get the tune outta my head!!! incubus bloc party??

Can't say I know the tune and I'm sure you'll find it if you Google hard enough but there's a superb diatribe by Derek Hynd in a copy of The Surfers Journal damning Flow for re-writing history which makes interesting if you can find it. If I can I'll scan it and put it up on here.... Whilst Flow isn't all its cracked up to be Curren is God IMHO
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 14, 2008, 11:30:08 am
Nice, where were you in?

Over here in Norway, spot called Byberg, rocky lefts. Sore ribs today I can tell ya!!  :thumbsup:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on August 14, 2008, 12:44:59 pm
Smart lad like you could fashion a fin for himself, what?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 14, 2008, 12:55:58 pm
I have seen a fin fashioned from a plastic breadboard, but loked like a lot of time and effort.

The left / right / centre fin set from FCS really annoys me. I have had to but a set in the past when I broke just one (centre one too). I have the other two if you want to buy one for a reduced rate? I personally don't think having a left or right one in the centre would make that much difference to the average surfer( I never noticed), and you could take a file / some paper to it if you want it more even.

As far as the new shapes, sizes and materials go, apparently they do make some difference, but I have thus far avoided them as I don't really understand and doubt I would tell any.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 14, 2008, 01:27:56 pm
George Greenough (inventor of the knee board, surf mat and general all round water craft wizard) is the man to read up on if you are remotely interested in fins.  I was very sceptical of the different types, profile and placement of fins until I started to ride a single fin egg and a longboard and I was staggered by the difference in handling style and performance when varying the type of fin and it's placement in relation to rail and tail.  My shortboards and mini-gun are all fitted with lokbox rather than FCS because of the ability to move fins up and down in relation to the tail and each other and the lokbox fitting itself is almost as solid as a glass-in in comparision with FCS.

There are some great articles out there on the internet and in the better quality surf magasines that explain the why's and wherefore's of fin placement and hydrodynamics.  What's interesting is that most of the foils and flex characteristics that are currently in use come from two sources; Greenough's research into the flex and fin profile of pelagic fish and a US airforce aerodynamics manual for aircraft wing design.

I've made some of my own wooden/glass fins which was fun (until one fell off  ;D)

To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's.  PM me as I might have a couple of spares kicking around somewhere...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 14, 2008, 02:39:25 pm
Quote
Last night, out of the blue it all turned into a session of dreams. Ahhhh. Love it when it happens like that, no expectations, and suddenly head high glass, sunny, warm water and 2 people out. A couple of hours of heaven...

Ahhhh! Yes this is what it's all about.  I had a similar experience last night too, a bit of local knowledge and a bit of gut feeling.  Plenty of swell around yesterday down here (like 15ft + worth of swell) but combined with onshore gales.  However, there is this little left had reef break, right up in the Bristol Channel on the Exmoor Coast in Somerset.  Those in the know will understand where I'm talking about (known as Lister's), it normally only fires up in the winter but last night it turned on for us few lucky people.  Perfect powerful peeling lefts with mini barrels galour.  All smiles in the water and the sun even came out!

I just picked up a set of FCS X-rated fancy pants fins with honeycomb centre and spangly graphics from Saltrock 15 a set, they're still selling them. It is good to have a full set of spares, think how gutted you'd be if you are having an all time session and it's ruined by losing a fin which you can't replace.  I always have a spare set in my car for emergencies.  I'd never spend 70 on fins and was dubious about the difference these new generation fins make.  However, the 'feel' of my board is totally different and noticeable on this set.  The board 'projects', glides smoother, carries speed through turns better and holds a more powerful turn better without spinning out.  It even sounds different!?  But heh don't spend 70 buy some basic plastic jobs or seek out a bargain.  See below!

http://www.surfline.co.uk/index.asp?level1=HARDWARE&level2=FINS+%26+WAX (http://www.surfline.co.uk/index.asp?level1=HARDWARE&level2=FINS+%26+WAX)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 14, 2008, 03:38:30 pm
I didn't need a new set of fins, but went for the Grenades, as they are the most ordinary looking. Cheers for the link.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 14, 2008, 04:05:40 pm
No worries Chris.  The better half was dead against the purchase of the one's with ladies on, besides which, I thought I might look a bit of a knobber with those fins on.  I went for the bomb/skull graphics.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2008, 08:47:35 am

To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's. 

Surely it depends on what level you surf at and what board you are riding. I bust the centre fin of my old minimal and could only get a spare left fin a amte had. Rode the board for avout a week and couldn't tell the difference.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2008, 03:01:14 pm
Noo. Onshore here all weekend. Got a long weekend coming up though, and charts are looking vaguely promising for the deserted beaches of NW Scotland. (although I have probably cursed it now).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 18, 2008, 05:38:28 pm

To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's. 

Surely it depends on what level you surf at and what board you are riding.

Yeah... you're right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 19, 2008, 10:07:24 am
Quote
So, anybody been out recently?
Onshore South/ South Westerly gales = some of the more secret spots in N. Devon/ Somerset firing up.  It felt like a proper winter swell yesterday.  Lynmouth was all time, the spring tides made for some interesting exits from the water at high tide, the safest of which appeared to be paddling into the harbour and the most 'interesting' involved getting dumped onto the rocks by the shorebreak.  We hit Lynmouth at low (avoiding the getting in problem) and a.n.other break on the push upto high (as it turned out the tide eventually got too high for this reef).  However, before it crapped out, we scored some nice chunky barrels.  Returned to Lynmouth  to watch people attempting to get back in when it got dark.  Can't remember a summer that when we have been able to surf these spots so regularly.  Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2008, 10:12:55 am
Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?

Are we fuck.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 21, 2008, 04:18:42 pm
Solid two week swell still here in Newquay!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 22, 2008, 09:21:45 am
Unlucky Chris...  Looks like the south west is getting all the fun.  Lynmouth was easily overhead on Monday which generally only happens on winter swells.  Back to small onshore dribble at moment though. 

Heading down for a few days in Cornwall next week, hoping to surf not sure where but I will not be going to Fistral!   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on August 22, 2008, 01:30:18 pm
Is this about to go badly wrong, has already gone badly wrong or is it in fact ok?

(http://starbulletin.com/2007/05/01/sports/artbeetx.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 22, 2008, 04:23:00 pm
Quote
Is this about to go badly wrong, has already gone badly wrong or is it in fact ok?

Point by point. 

It's about to go really badly wrong.

It's already gone badly wrong.

It is infact OK if he is lucky or alternatively potentially life threatening.

The wave is unmistakeable.  Teahupoo.  Your unfortunate chap has taken off too deep/ too late.  Ideally he should already be under the lip and on his feet.  He has the full force of the ocean lining up behind him and he is heading towards a shallow live coral reef.  It may end with some nasty cuts or worse.  I have only heard of one surfer that has died as a result of wiping out here which is surprising.  Although I'm sure there have been some properly nasty incidents.  Like someone got scalped! 

Thinking about paddling into one of these beasts gives me a horrible feeling in my stomach...  Check how thick the lip is, the flats look super shallow, this lot have the right idea.... stay in the channel and watch.

(http://stormwater.files.wordpress.com/2007/04/teahupoo_1.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on August 22, 2008, 04:37:40 pm

that just looks like suicide to me - amazing photo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on August 22, 2008, 06:04:11 pm
Brill photos!

Here's something I've never *really* known the answer to, if someone would care to help: What's the significance of the thickness of the lip?

In fact an in depth description of wave hydraulics would be good!  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 24, 2008, 09:29:49 pm
What do you mean by siginficance? Thick heavy waves have a lot of weight behind them, and will pound you into the bottom or reef if you screw it up.

I can highly recommend Surf Science by Tony Butt and Paul Russell if you want to learn about waves and their formation
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 25, 2008, 08:44:26 am
What's the significance of the thickness of the lip?
Lip thickness is a sign of power in the wave, it has a lot to do with the wavelength of the swell and puts major water volume into the wave. A 10ft wave with a short wavelength has nowhere near as much water in it as a 2ft wave with a proper wavelength. That's why tsunamis are so nasty. There are loads of waves hitting coastlines every day that are way bigger than most tsunamis, but the tsumami lips are like 2km thick, that's a lot of water and power.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2008, 03:44:39 pm
Be amazing to get it right though.

(http://surfermag.com/photos/wallpapers/mcken-1280.jpg)

(http://www.surfermag.com/wallpaper/fanning-frankbig.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2008, 08:40:45 am
And just when I'm bemoaining lack of waves, a random southerly swell appears. Bizarrely, clean and in well defined sets. Had a fantastic longboard session until it got dark last night, most of the session on my tod out back, picking off the set waves.

Felt like autumn; cool air, warm water, and nobody about. Sweet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 27, 2008, 12:40:54 pm
2 hours before sunset, 6ft reefy lefts with almost no wind last night, peachy. The autumn is on our doorstep  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 27, 2008, 11:51:32 pm
Classic Towan 3ft, 2, 4 hour session's either side of high tide.
3rd day running.
know what stoked means...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 31, 2008, 10:53:51 am
Weh Hey! Back in ND after raiding Kernow.  Scored Hayle rivermouth at dawn on Tues, shoulder high reeling punchy lefties and only 1 other in.  Big swell SW wind, apparently at the same time Gwithian was overhead but blown out mushiness.  Surfed small clean waves for the rest of the week at Gwithian and Perranporth.  Happy days.

On the thickness of lips.....
Thick lipped waves are more than likely going to be barreling waves which is what a lot of surfers are after.  (You can't beat getting barreled!).  The downside is they can be dangerous and hard to surf.  A thick lipped wave is faster and harder to get into.  You better get your timing right or you will end up in the lip heading down.  Although swell has a lot to do with the power and thus the girth of a wave, the set up is also important.  ie.  Saunton Sands will never throw out a big thick lip because the beach is so flat and the wave has nothing to trip up on.  On the other hand Croyde at low tide can have very defined and shallow banks of sand.  The waves come out of deep water and hit the banks, heh presto the wave kicks up and slams down with power.  Now apply this theory to a shallow reef where waves come out of deep water.  You get the idea.  What is going on under the water, the shape of the beach, sand banks, reef etc.  is very important in creating a powerful barreling fat lipped wave.  So if your starting out go for gently shelving beach much easier to ride and learn in this environment...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 31, 2008, 05:10:51 pm
Just spent a week in Abersoch with limited opportunities to pursue my normal distractions, and had my yearly epiphany that I should really get in the water more. Any of you guys have an old mini-mal you might like to sell? I don't really fancy shelling out for a new one , nor lugging around/ being smacked on the head by a bic one.

Amazing how Teahupoo always looks like it has the entire ocean behind it about to fill in a puddle someone has somehow created. Snorkelled along the edge of a similar reef not far away on a calm day and the way the reef drops vertically into the abyss is incredible, and a bit unnerving.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 01, 2008, 09:12:46 am
JB... I was there all last week and I think we waved at one another the harbour.  You didn't miss much surf wise though as I only went in twice earlier in the week.

I'll ask around about a mini mal.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2008, 12:51:36 pm
I am thinking of selling mine, but hardly the most convenient place for you to get it.

I missed this, btw, quite amusing

surferspath.com/news/shark-shield-surf-anti-shark-device-eaten-by-shark  (http://surferspath.com/news/shark-shield-surf-anti-shark-device-eaten-by-shark)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 01, 2008, 05:15:05 pm
Yeah, FD, clocked you lording it up outside The Sandpiper n'all. I know the surf was shit, but not as shit as the 'tragic light' landscape photography prospects, soloing on Cilan or a gopping Porth Ysgo.

How much are we talking Chris? I daresay there are a few off-shore types I know who might be passing...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 01, 2008, 07:19:17 pm
Oh dear... it was my birthday that day and I was very drunk by the time I was outside the sandpiper. :-[

Off topic but if we get a dry spell do you fancy some sea cliff action??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2008, 08:58:09 pm


How much are we talking Chris? I daresay there are a few off-shore types I know who might be passing...

No idea, will have a think. It's a Roger Cooper (fairly reputable S Wales shaper) conventional Glass fibre board, I think about 7'10 or so. It's in pretty good nick, couple of minor dings on tip and tail that have been well repaired and expected pressure dents on top. PM me an email address and I will send some pics.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 02, 2008, 08:37:52 am
I'm a mere 5'8", would a 7'10" board be a bit big? I know nothing, please bear that in mind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2008, 08:57:51 am
Depends on your level and what you have ridden before I guess? I am 6ft 2 and 13 st(ish) and it served me right through from first surfs (i only hired a swell board once before I got it) to overhead waves on the Hebrides last year.
 
I'm a bit out of my depth to be honest as I have only ever really ridden about half a dozen boards. I'm sure other people will be able offer more info. FD you remember my board?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 02, 2008, 09:06:30 am
It'll be fine JB... It's a nice board and 7'10 is probably ideal.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 02, 2008, 01:02:35 pm
Cheers for the advice guys. Not sure it will fit in the car though! What's the ads and disses compared to something a bit shorter? I was looking at stuff more like 7'2"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2008, 01:26:41 pm
Size wise with the front seat rolled back I can fit it into a 2 door Corsa in the passenger seat footwell, or diagonally in the boot of a Pug 306 estate with the 2 seats folded forward.

In general terms, the smaller you go the harder it will be get up on initally as it will be a bit more unstable and less floaty, but it will be more manouverable once you get better on it. Depends on how much frustration you are prepared to put up with and how much time you are prepared to dedicate to it early on vs feeling the board is holding you back once you start to progress. I surfed the board occasionally for the first couple of years, but have used it (on average) weekly since I moved to Aberdeen 4 years ago, and have only felt the need for a more manouverable board in the last year or so.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 02, 2008, 04:27:07 pm
JB..... get a roof a rack!   Mind you at 5''8 I reckon you can get away with something a little shorter than 7''10.  As long as you have lots of volume you'll be fine.  A minimal style board at around 7"4 will hold your size (assuming your not of prop forward build) just fine.  Just think volume, plenty of width and depth (oo er).  I started surfing on a 7"6 and I'm 5"10, this was a fine starter board for me.  My 7''6 fits in my Renault Megs Hatch (I see you baby shaking that ass!) in a straight line back from parcel shelve onto dash board no problem. 

Don't get tempted to buy a little skinny stick just coz your short.  I've seen so many people with brand spanking new 6 to 6"4 boards in the line up wasting their time and energy attempting to learn to surf...  I just dropped to a 6'' waffer thin thruster this year and whilst it surfs very well, paddling is very difficult (you need to be super fit) and it needs some serious punch in the wave to work.  It won't surf in slop, slow waves or small waves at all.  When you have learnt to ride a longer board ie. you can paddle it, stand up, trim across a wave, bottom turn and top turn, then get a fish type board, twinnie or quad or a fat boy thruster, that is shorter say 6''8 ish, still with plenty of width and volume.  You'll be shredding it up in no time. 

Last but by no means least, if at all possible get out there in some clean surf...  1 to 2ft and clean (offshore wind) is perfect for learning... Onshore mush is OK initially when you are just mastering standing up in the whitewater.  However, getting your timing right, locking into a little wave and trimming across will come so much easier when it is clean. Have fun!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 02, 2008, 04:35:39 pm
Cheers for the advice

Quote
Mind you at 5''8 I reckon you can get away with something a little shorter than 7''10.  As long as you have lots of volume you'll be fine.  A minimal style board at around 7"4 will hold your size (assuming your not of prop forward build) just fine.

That's what I was thinking - I'm fairly skinny. Don't worry, I've no intention of getting a short board, have borrowed them before and never got off one knee, whereas I was stood up on the first wave with a mate's bic minimal.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2008, 10:13:13 pm
Just been in the garage taking some pics for you and it's actually 7'8" x 21 3/4". Not sure where I got the 7' 10" from?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 03, 2008, 02:37:17 pm
Sorry Chris... not trying to do you out of sale! ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2008, 09:19:29 pm
It's all good, if JB doesn't think it's right for him, I'd rather not sell it to him.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 06, 2008, 02:14:50 pm
salvatore don't surf.
italy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qll3LIzPQ0A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qll3LIzPQ0A)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXR4--fEa1M&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXR4--fEa1M&feature=related)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 06, 2008, 03:39:36 pm
Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 06, 2008, 03:58:47 pm
Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.
:-[ sorry what do you mean? :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 06, 2008, 04:01:11 pm
Yeah Pat, I'll get some giant wooden thing and come down to Cornwall, we can have hang ten competitions!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 06, 2008, 04:22:19 pm
Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.
:-[ sorry what do you mean? :-[
oh sorry again i thought it was a reply to the vids.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 09, 2008, 10:55:09 pm
Got one you can borrow star!
later vibes...

As for car trouble. 10.o fits nicely in a Mazda Eunos... so where there is a will theres a way, (ok, its a soft top!).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 09, 2008, 11:01:18 pm
PS., itsa Gordon and Smith, tripple stringer
400 GBP
collect only
50/50 rails (reason for sale)
VGC...

PPS. Its the Jesus Classic Longboard comp ate Croyde This W.E.

PPPS. any one going, Its near Baggy...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 10, 2008, 12:23:49 pm
Will be in the area... errr Coz I live here..  Very likely to be surfing and bouldering at some point (pun intended) throughout the weekend.

Looks like there is swell all weekend.
http://magicseaweed.com/Saunton-Croyde-Woolacombe-Surf-Report/7/detailedLongRange/uk/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Saunton-Croyde-Woolacombe-Surf-Report/7/detailedLongRange/uk/)

Just a matter of getting some shelter from that damned NWesterly, mind you looks like it's fairly light wind at times, so should be classic..

PM me a shout if you wanna check out some of the fine bouldering to be had in ND.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 12, 2008, 07:37:22 pm
Ahh, drat. looks like all the places are taken, so no room at the inn for the real Jesus... might still turn up,
Cribbers breaking today, fistrals 7ft and awkward... the bay is 5 and clean. saturday is gonna be classic.
Cool will turn up for the bouldering. freddy forefinger is feeling a little less fragile...
ps. virgin friendly boards are Eggs, Magic Carpets or i can fully see luke seawalker on a twinnie fish type board...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on September 13, 2008, 01:28:07 am
Classic Towan 3ft, 2, 4 hour session's either side of high tide.
3rd day running.
know what stoked means...

Know what "ripped off" means?

It grieves me to read read about you enjoying yourself on other peoples money.  :thumbsdown:

Pay us back you selfish twat.

 ;)


 :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: robertostallioni on September 13, 2008, 06:57:38 am
http://www.youtube.com/v/OaiSHcHM0PA&hl (http://www.youtube.com/v/OaiSHcHM0PA&hl)
http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1 (http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 13, 2008, 12:40:17 pm
general ineptitude? Surfing?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jim on September 13, 2008, 09:05:52 pm
I might have to change my user name to SimonWilsonDebtCollection
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2008, 12:16:45 pm
two very different sessions on the weekend - Friday night - big messy storm swell and knackered sandbars. I was out of my depth a bit and took a few good nailings on steep drops. Guess my reactions and timing are a bit out after the summer.

Sunday evening, nice mellow southerly - great longboarding fun, until it got dark. Nice waves, cool air, warm water. Autumn is here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 16, 2008, 09:05:47 pm
Ireland (Ailieens near Lahinch) on Sunday morning....
(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/72159.jpg)

I fixed Galpinos fin today... pics tomorrow.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on September 16, 2008, 09:13:14 pm
Weh Hey! Back in ND after raiding Kernow.  Scored Hayle rivermouth at dawn on Tues, shoulder high reeling punchy lefties and only 1 other in.  Big swell SW wind, apparently at the same time Gwithian was overhead but blown out mushiness.  Surfed small clean waves for the rest of the week at Gwithian and Perranporth.  Happy days.

So it must have been you I met at Carn Brea on the Friday, I was falling off Pond Wall endlessly at the time... 

I got back from 2 weeks in SW france on Sunday evening having not scored any particularly great waves, to be told it had been headhigh and offshore all day. Surfed hayle rivermouth before work at 7 on monday morning and was similar to your above description!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 17, 2008, 05:53:48 pm
Quote
So it must have been you I met at Carn Brea on the Friday, I was falling off Pond Wall endlessly at the time... 


;D  Ah! Ha! Ben !! It was I scoping out Carn Brea on that fine greasy humid evening..  Good to hear you got the rivermouth on form, I thought it was pretty damn classic when I scored it!

Last week was epic.  Went something like this...  Sunday - bouldering at Lynmouth, Monday - Setting problems and bolting holds onto the new 40 something degree training board at the Mill, Tuesday - training on said board (finally something decent to train on in North Devon!), Wednesday am - Epic surf session at Lynmouth (proper epic), Wednesday night - training on said board again, Thursday am - even more epic surf at Lynmouth, Friday - Croyde, Saturday - sport climbing at Holcombe Quarries, Sunday - surfing at Putts on a super pumpy 15 second swell,  Monday - low tide Croyde barrel tastic, Tuesday am - swell's dead, longboarded at Wooly,  Tuesday eve - back to the board of justice........   :o  I need a rest.

Swell charts are now showing diddly squat...  Last chance for some DWS whilst there's no swell and the weather's good-  Berry Head on Friday!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 25, 2008, 12:13:29 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/2884147117_30f7a18df8.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28550645@N05/2884147117/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 04, 2008, 11:17:25 am
And Slater wins his 9th tour! Unbelievable!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on October 06, 2008, 11:49:02 am
Norway yesterday... beefy.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3273/2917649491_c119351e17.jpg?v=0)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2008, 11:56:14 am
Whereabouts?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on October 06, 2008, 12:55:28 pm
Kvassheim.
We windsurfed first (good laugh out in the swells you see in the background and nice waves on the point), then the wind dropped a bit and we surfed
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on October 06, 2008, 01:15:26 pm
Anyone on here know enough about board/fin theory to answer this??

Got a nice AM 6'4''. Pleased with it on the whole but now and again I catch a rail on the top turn. More so than with my other boards and i was wonderin if I could change the fins to help with this. Should I go smaller or larger, or is it a whole lot more complicated?

Alternatively of course, I could get better technique and more speed of the top, but changing the fins is cheaper!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 06, 2008, 06:55:40 pm
"fore foot further back on the board" theory may be applicable here..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 10, 2008, 11:02:09 am
Nash....  I don't think fins will make much difference..  Sounds to me like you're not carrying enough speed to the top of the wave.  This would indicate that it is, infact, your bottom turn that needs sorting out.  Focus on getting your bottom turn right this is where all your speed generation will come from and will prevent you from 'stalling' when your turning off the top. Smack that lip.

Well folks.. I just got married.. and to top it a friend popped round on the morning of the wedding with a gift from the missus.  It's 6"2 rounded pin, has 'parabolic' (whatever that means) balsa rails, epoxy construction and goes like grease lightening (Firewire Flexfire).  It is mint!  She really must love me or she just wants me out of the house on a regular basis. Happy days.  :thumbsup:

It will be unleashed Lyndaka this arvo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2008, 11:22:46 am
Sounds mint, pics?. And congratulations!

Gagging for a surf, not been in the water since before hols (21 Sept).

Now fully kitted out for winter, just got new X-CEL Hooded Rashie, all kit now upgraded since last winter; X-CEL infiniti 5:4:3 (on sale last spring!), Alder 7mm boots, and X-CEL Lobster mitts. Plus van for getting changed in. Bring on winter swells.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 11, 2008, 08:05:22 pm
Parabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer... had a fire flex in Mexico... 6.6 squash tail... they are cool... wanted the 9.0,,, looked shit.... she wants the quad flex...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on October 13, 2008, 12:01:04 am
(http://photos.surfline.com/albums/userpics/12336/2867959415_ae1311c5ff_o.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 13, 2008, 03:18:43 pm
Nice Photo Bubba!

Quote
Parabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer...

Yes this is the case on the board but I'm sure that's not what parabolic means... See below..
The board is an epoxy sandwich affair which generally don't need stringers anyway.

Parabola=
n.   A plane curve formed by the intersection of a right circular cone and a plane parallel to an element of the cone or by the locus of points equidistant from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.

Parabolic is something with the above properties... That's so much clearer to me now.  :-\

Anyhooooo I surfed it in quality waves this weekend and it ripped!

Quote
Sounds mint, pics?. And congratulations!

Cheers! Will attempt to post piccies soon, of the board not the wedding?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2008, 03:20:53 pm
Why would I want to see pics of you in a monkeysuit, when there is a new board around?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2008, 03:27:03 pm

Quote
Parabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer...

Yes this is the case on the board but I'm sure that's not what parabolic means... See below..
The board is an epoxy sandwich affair which generally don't need stringers anyway.

Parabola=
n.   A plane curve formed by the intersection of a right circular cone and a plane parallel to an element of the cone or by the locus of points equidistant from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.

Parabolic is something with the above properties... That's so much clearer to me now.  :-\


I think Parabolic stringers referse to anything that has stringers that aren't straight down the centre like in conventional boards; like parabolic skis (carvers) it doesn't necessarily meant the shape if the stringer is a geometric parabola.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 13, 2008, 03:52:08 pm
I think Parabolic stringers referse to anything that has stringers that aren't straight down the centre like in conventional boards; like parabolic skis (carvers) it doesn't necessarily meant the shape if the stringer is a geometric parabola.

Imposter! What have you done with the real SA Chris?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 13, 2008, 05:07:52 pm
It's actually beginning to make proper sense... 

Quote
from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.

The parabola is the curve of the rails that whilst not being a straight line (like a stringer) starts and meets around the fixed points of the straight line.  ie. the curves that meet at the tail and nose...  this is in several dimensions though because of the 'rocker' of the board. 

Hows about in a monkey suit on the surfboard?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2008, 10:32:30 pm
Now that I would like to see. One step on from trash the dress

http://trashthedress.com/ (http://trashthedress.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2008, 07:07:26 pm
So the retro "bow stringer" is parabolic without even knowing it... do i stand corrected without even realiseing it?
funny thing happened t'other day, surf pumping... set wave... took off... went quiet and all weird... straightened out.... guy hoots.... paddle outback... "fucking sick barrel mate"
caught my first tube and didnt even realise it...
debt collect that!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rodma on October 21, 2008, 05:45:27 pm
Apologies as I'm sure this has been dealt with earlier in this thread, but I don't really have time to trawl through it.

I have only surfed a couple of times (the 2nd time ever on Friday past) and am keen to buy a board. Am I wasting my time buying a board made by BIC?

Oh, I'll mostly be in the water of the East coast of Scotland

Any help would be much appreciated
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2008, 10:10:19 am
A personal opinion (apologies to BIC owners)

BICs and NSPs are great to start on; reasonably priced, tough and very stable, but if you plan on spending a fir amount of time in the water you will improve farly quickly and you will find them to be a bit lifeless and unresponsive, and will soon find yourself hankering after a more progressive board.

I would look for a traditional glassed minimal / funboard / hybrid shape, especially if you are learning on the east coast, where waves can be a bit gutless. The newer lightweight epoxy boards are good, but not great if there is any wind or chop on the surface.

Where were you out? If it was with C2C at Dunbar, have a chat with Tim, Josh or Sam and try out some boards from them, or ask them for advice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rodma on October 22, 2008, 10:43:51 am
A personal opinion (apologies to BIC owners)

BICs and NSPs are great to start on; reasonably priced, tough and very stable, but if you plan on spending a fir amount of time in the water you will improve farly quickly and you will find them to be a bit lifeless and unresponsive, and will soon find yourself hankering after a more progressive board.

I would look for a traditional glassed minimal / funboard / hybrid shape, especially if you are learning on the east coast, where waves can be a bit gutless. The newer lightweight epoxy boards are good, but not great if there is any wind or chop on the surface.

Where were you out? If it was with C2C at Dunbar, have a chat with Tim, Josh or Sam and try out some boards from them, or ask them for advice.

Thanks for your input

I had a feeling that was the case with BICs. Some of the online reviews of these boards are glowing  :shrug:

I was out in Cornwall as my dad moved there a long time ago and I thought it was about time that I visit. Had a lesson at polzeath on one of those foam topped ones (same type as I tried in East London many years ago) and had a really good time.

I'm definately more drawn towards a mini-mal type board and don't really mind paying extra for a quality product.

Do you think that C2C are a good bet then?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2008, 10:50:20 am
If you are east coast Scotland based, they are the only bet (unless you include Granite Reef here in Aberdeen, which I wouldn't), as far as trying out boards / lessons / gear hire. They are all sound guys, good knowledge, and run a good little operation.

Online reviews of boards are not worth the paper they are written on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rodma on October 22, 2008, 11:12:26 am
If you are east coast Scotland based, they are the only bet (unless you include Granite Reef here in Aberdeen, which I wouldn't), as far as trying out boards / lessons / gear hire. They are all sound guys, good knowledge, and run a good little operation.

Online reviews of boards are not worth the paper they are written on.


Excellent, have looked them up. Swell looking good for this Sunday  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2008, 11:16:46 am
Might be OK, but forecast to be pretty windy too.

pm me an address and I will send you one C2C's weekly updates.

It's the Gathering of the Clans surf contest in Fraserburgh this weekend, might be good, usually quite festive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 24, 2008, 09:34:10 am
ALLLRRRIIIGGGHHHTTTT!!!!! I'm now the owner of a surfboard. Mad props to Chris!

Shall I pay you now? Its fuckin mahoosive, feel like I'll be able to catch the tides. Plus I now know what my reach is off the ground... 7'8"!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 24, 2008, 10:14:19 am
ALLLRRRIIIGGGHHHTTTT!!!!! I'm now the owner of a surfboard. Mad props to Chris!

Shall I pay you now? Its fuckin mahoosive, feel like I'll be able to catch the tides. Plus I now know what my reach is off the ground... 7'8"!

 :thumbsup:

Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2008, 10:32:52 am
Shall I pay you now?

Have emailed you. Glad you are stoked, hope it brings you as much joy as it has done for me.

Had last evening session of the year before clocks change on wedesday night. Tiny waves, but good fun, glad to have got in.

Looks like lunchtime and dawnies next week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 24, 2008, 11:05:21 am
Quote
Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.

In St. Just all week, hopefully we'll get something.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2008, 11:27:49 am
Definitely waves, but looks to be onshore winds too. Look for sheltered spots, or NE or SE facing beaches (there are a few).

Idol Eyes will know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 26, 2008, 11:08:42 pm
JB Wind is from the north Monday.  No Shelter from the wind... Head to the south coast you should score good waves there.  Praa Sands should be on...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 27, 2008, 09:59:13 am
Then looking pants for the rest of the week..

Quote
Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.
:'(

Nevermind, we're looking at perfect climbing conditions later in the week, cold, clear, dry and crisp days coming up. :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2008, 03:55:11 pm
good conditions in SW, snow in Aberdeen. Cairngorms are white, Lecht is closed, snow to sea level tomorrow. Makes dawnies before work a supreme effort of will. Pass the mittens and hood.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 29, 2008, 04:41:30 pm
Yep. Looking good for some hardcore bouldering action this weekend, down this way. 
Surf has disappeared and it's getting bluddy cold, snow forecast for tonight!

Quote
good conditions in SW, snow in Aberdeen. Cairngorms are white, Lecht is closed, snow to sea level tomorrow. Makes dawnies before work a supreme effort of will. Pass the mittens and hood.


Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Makes me cold justing contemplating the coldness up there getting changed must be pretty savage in the depths of winter. I'm trying to hold out on the 5mil suit, gloves, boots and hood at the moment.  Had to give in and wear the 5 mil suit last weekend but still holding out for the hood etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 06, 2008, 02:45:14 pm
It's getting kinda heavy

(http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/hugeoakley-600.jpg)

Beating doesn't sound fun either.

http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/ (http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 06, 2008, 02:56:14 pm
It's getting kinda heavy

(http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/hugeoakley-600.jpg)

Beating doesn't sound fun either.

http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/ (http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/)

 :o that is ludicrous!

Initially thought it would be down in Margaret River as I'd heard there are big waves up there (from surfing people I met in Perth).  Was surprised to read it was Kalbarri (7-8hours drive north of Perth), but not overly surprised at the rough seas to get out there (our whaling watching trek turned back after half an hour of ridiculous pitching).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on November 18, 2008, 07:51:08 pm
Maybe not quite the scale of the above waves but East Coast looks to be fairly sizeable at the weekend  :great:
And i'm looking forward to staying warm for a change in my new suit  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 18, 2008, 10:01:03 pm
Sods law. I am in Telford for a wedding. Look for a sheltered spot, as it is going to be windy too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 19, 2008, 05:23:50 pm
The beating mentioned above  :o

(http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/hugeoakleywipe-600.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 21, 2008, 03:31:29 pm
 :spank:  Ouch!!  Doesn't bare thinking about....... hold your breath and try to chill whilst getting savagely pummelled, then work out which way is up and then calmly swim to the surface, to be faced with another one that is going to unload right in front of you...  Maximum respect to the lad, the surfing equivalent of falling off an E10???

Quote
Sods law. I am in Telford for a wedding. Look for a sheltered spot, as it is going to be windy too!

Unlucky... Too right! This N/NW wind is ruining any swell that's arriving here at the moment.. Sheltered spots on East Coast should be pretty good this weekend too, frustratingly I'm stranded here in the South West because of work commitments.  Been patiently waiting for something decent for a couple of weeks now.   :boohoo:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 24, 2008, 08:46:00 am
And the devil wind failed to appear.

As much as I love my mates and was pleased to see them married after 14 years together, seeing this on the cams when I got home is a cruel and unusual form of punishment.

(http://argus-data.wldelft.nl/sites/aberdees/2008/c1/328_Nov.23/1227445201.Sun.Nov.23_13_00_01.UTC.2008.aberdees.c1.snap.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on November 24, 2008, 09:37:48 am
Devil wind replaced by heinous snow, which made getting into and north of scarborough a very slow affair. This however, was only the start of my pain for the day.
Arrive at said point, looks good, 6ft ish some bigger, some smaller, suit up, get in. The only other 2 souls in the water get straight out leaving me on my tod. First time surfing alone, so a bit nervy. Anyhow, gave myself a talking to and got on it.
1st wave, bit late, bailed and went throught the washing machine, new suit stood up well though so no flushings. :thumbsup:
2nd wave, paddle, pop, I'm in, but somehow can't get speed to make it down the wave, try to just turn and head down the line but got spat off. More washing machine, pull board back over to find it virtually in 2  :furious: Fucker!
Went to the shop was told about 150 for a repair which I can live with.
Decide not to leave board with shop and will get sorted at later date. Driving home to Sheffield, cruising down M1 just by Leeds and there is a loud bang, I check the rear view to see my board pirouetting through the air and land in the central reservation  :furious: :furious: My soft rack had snapped. Fucker!
Do you ever get the feeling some days you should have stayed in bed!!
Hope you had a good time at your mates wedding.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 24, 2008, 09:54:31 am
Nae luck! Time for new board shopping! Solo sessions are always a bit scary, get you really focussed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 25, 2008, 04:11:57 pm
Dangereux... Wounded!  Good effort on going it alone for the first time..   A shame your board only lasted for 2 waves..  Did you have a spare?  Nothing worse than a classic session being ruined by lack of spare board, fins, leash etc..

 :o Dammit... The East Coast was rocking and with a nice snowy backdrop too!!  We're finally in for some decent swell and wind for later this week.  Fingers crossed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on November 25, 2008, 04:31:35 pm
Wounded indeed. No spare board so a long drive for not very much, but at least my new wetsuit got tested, and its a goodun, no flushings  :great:
Here is a little piccy for you.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3186/3058190103_f60b7b52d7.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 15, 2008, 05:50:49 pm
Here's some quickly edited footage from our Banyak boat trip this Summer http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd5hSLUtgro (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd5hSLUtgro)

There's loads more tapes that haven't been edited and the best days weren't video'd because we were all in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 15, 2008, 07:06:19 pm
Nice. Some of those waves don't look too vicious, would probably be OK on them. Well the rights anyway.

Too good for U-Tube, get it on Vimeo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on December 17, 2008, 03:55:12 pm
Weeeeeee!

(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/telegraph/multimedia/archive/01133/surfer-wipepout_1133858i.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on December 17, 2008, 04:00:20 pm
 :o Is that a shark chomping its jaws waiting to cushion his landing?  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on January 08, 2009, 04:29:09 pm
heads up..
any good beginner body boarding near kinsale south of Cork?

I'm planning some study leave in the area for sept time and i'm considering various recreational activities to plug in at the same time... ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dolly on January 08, 2009, 04:37:11 pm
Quote
study leave

I love that  :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 08, 2009, 08:58:42 pm
any good beginner body boarding near kinsale south of Cork?

I'm planning some study leave in the area for sept time and i'm considering various recreational activities to plug in at the same time... ;D

Luckily i have stormriders a foot to my left......

Cork......

To the west -

Garrettstown (west of Kinsale)

Two beaches are seperated by a rock point; the east beach has anice right on a SW swell, which also gives good beach breaks that are ideal for beginners , while the west beach (Coakley's) works on any swell for E to W, with mainly beach breaks on an excellent right at the W end (sic).  There are two groynes in the of the beach that are dangerous whern covered with high water.

Fennels Bay (east of Kinsale)

A little reef that works on a SSE swell. Good hollow wave from 2-4ft. Exiting from the water can be difficult.

To the east -

Ardmore (east of Youghal)

This is a sheltered bay with waves generally half the size  of the prevailinf swell. It's good in stornm swell with N wind (very rare). Enjoy the picturesque seaside village.

Basically that coast has all sorts of breaks from Skibbereen as far as Tramore (which I can confirm is a good night out, which is fortunate as there were no waves when we passed through). It needs a bit more south in the swell than the W and N coast, but the Ring of Kerry and Dingle are not far away, and worth it for the scenery if nothing else.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2009, 02:59:24 pm
Hope that info I laboriously typed out for you is of some use fatdoc.

Not sure if this should be here or YYFY, but just had a great lunchtime surf session. Hooked a half dozen long peeling rights. Sun shining, warm wetsuit, sea not that cold yet, perfect loggable waves. Crazy busy for midweek in January though, must have been well over a dozen people in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 21, 2009, 06:48:26 pm
Yes!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3298/3209734619_27b2d8b218.jpg?v=0)

Yes!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3326/3209736773_f5ff672581.jpg?v=0)

Fucking!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3328/3210586348_fd40f482be.jpg?v=0)

Yes!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3516/3210572238_ec72ca1a94.jpg?v=0)

Down with the Bic!
My first proper surfboard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 21, 2009, 07:28:54 pm
Ha nice! I knew you were jealous, now its my turn! Porth Oer?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 21, 2009, 08:38:12 pm
Nice board Clm.. Porth Oer christening too  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2009, 10:26:53 pm
Nice clm, what dimensions? I believe I once smited you for Bic ownership. As i said elsewhere, the balance is now redressed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 24, 2009, 04:06:26 pm
6 foot fishcuit.  I know thats kinda long for a fish but i went and got a good wedge of advice from magic seaweed and they said dont step down too far.  They suggested something 6-2 to 6-4 and i was chasing a nice gulf stream speed dialler quad on ebay.  Lost the auction but this turned up and from reading up found it still should have plenty of float for someone as dire at surfing (and as skinny) as me.  I had no probs once up but need to spend a bit more time in the water to get a bit more paddle fitness.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 25, 2009, 10:28:30 am
Ha nice! I knew you were jealous, now its my turn! Porth Oer?

You will have to buy new rubber before you have a turn on anything mate.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 25, 2009, 10:33:51 am
Nice clm, what dimensions? I believe I once smited you for Bic ownership. As i said elsewhere, the balance is now redressed.

Ive not forgotten the negative karma chris.  the bic lives in the van for tiny surf days.  im keeping it for the day when i share a break with you.  ill hang way out back catching everything and fall of just when i arrive anywhere near you so you can get mullered by a flying plastic log. ;) :lol: :lol: Dont think ive spent all that time on a bic without completing a full apprenticeship in how to be a complete twat in the lineup :guilty:

negative karma for owning a plastic sufboard - wheres the emoticon for mock outrage?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jim on January 25, 2009, 05:51:35 pm
Hey Clm, do you go on surfing forums showing off your new bouldering gear?

 ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 25, 2009, 07:42:53 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3516/3210572238_ec72ca1a94.jpg?v=0)
Who's THAT guy? And WHOSE the talented lensman?  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2009, 09:20:46 pm
Ive not forgotten the negative karma chris.  the bic lives in the van for tiny surf days.  im keeping it for the day when i share a break with you.  ill hang way out back catching everything and fall of just when i arrive anywhere near you so you can get mullered by a flying plastic log.

I'll see your bic which you will be hanging way out back with and raise you my new 9ft 6 Epoxy longboard, used for hanging out way way out back. Perfect for catching waves before they even know they are waves. I'll wave on the way past.

Fish sounds about the right size. Mine is about 7ft.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 27, 2009, 05:38:19 pm
 :bow:  All praise to Huey.. December through to January has been one epic swell after another down here.  I've almost considered getting a second wetsuit, for rotation purposes, so there is always a dry one to pull on!  Starting to get complacent about the whole thing, skipping classic days because there's another one on the way.  Surfed at pretty much every spot from Bude to Somerset at some point.  Surfed the coldest day of the year at low-tide BIG  :o  Sandymouth, inch thick ice on the steps down to the beach, heavy heavy shore break to negotiate on way out and in etc.. etc.. Stoked as you can get.. I reckon the last month or so has been the most consistent stretch of pumping surf for quite some time.  In again tommorow, Thursday's looking good, as is Friday (but skip for a boulder comp) and Saturday looking good too!!  The Firewire is well and truly broken in...  Bring it on
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on January 30, 2009, 10:43:10 am
(http://www.abc.net.au/reslib/200901/r334831_1515316.jpg)

Taken today at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania. Looks like fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2009, 11:24:21 am
When I saw that double lip I knew it was shipstern. Wavespotter geek me.

Looks fun and terrifying at the same time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 07, 2009, 11:33:42 am
http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=7 (http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=7)

The rodeo thing in the tube is awesome!! :jaw:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 07, 2009, 11:41:26 am
Also good

http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=30 (http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=30)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 12, 2009, 07:26:23 pm
New board.
Hobie.
9'6.
Midget Smith (deceased).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 13, 2009, 11:32:42 am
Here it is!  Got married in October and this was delivered to me on the morning of my wedding, a gift from the wife.  A good starting point for married life me thinks...

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3276524582_0b157d0859.jpg)

FireWire 6''2 - Rounded Pin - Parabolic Balsa Rails - Goes like a rocket and holds it's rail splendidly in sucky fast barrelling surf.  I almost sacked the wedding to elope with it...

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3450/3276524600_75b325eb01.jpg)

Next appointment with Mr C Royde - Low tide this arvo
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 17, 2009, 09:25:22 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3106/3363111957_d27d6b61e1_o.jpg)
The Wire and the Granticus in action on a little raid to Cornwall, Godrevy - 28th Feb.. 8)
and the forecast for the week ahead is flat, flat, flat...  It's good to have memories of days like this to tide you over.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 17, 2009, 10:58:51 pm
Nice little cover up, not bad for a spazz foot.

No line on the horizon here, to quite those irish tossers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 18, 2009, 02:35:34 pm
Quote
Nice little cover up, not bad for a spazz foot.
Errr! Cheers. Charts are looking guff for the foreseeable future but it is due to be dry for a long period too, time to surf some granite me thinks...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 18, 2009, 05:58:23 pm
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 18, 2009, 06:16:13 pm
The Wire and the Granticus in action on a little raid to Cornwall, Godrevy - 28th Feb.. 8)

Very nice....

I got in for the first time for months on Sunday on the reef at Hells Mouth. Surprised myself to find I could still surf...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 19, 2009, 03:28:38 pm
Quote
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
Nice little clean wave apparently but not what I would describe as pumpology. It's gotta be at least shoulder high.. :P
Quote
I got in for the first time for months on Sunday on the reef at Hells Mouth. Surprised myself to find I could still surf...
Yeah it's like riding a bike you know! Seen some choice piccies from Hell's Mouth recently, chunky hollow and crystal clear water,  looks class when it's working.  I'm guessing big swell from the S/SW, light winds or northerlies will make you folks happy?  The question is, is it worth a long trip up there or am I better off hitting S Coast spots down here that will fire in similar conditions??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2009, 03:59:33 pm
FD you up here next week? Poss some wave action if wind plays ball?  Evening sessions are on now. Stick a wetty in if you got room.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 19, 2009, 04:52:41 pm
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
Yep - its been great for several days now. Sunday we bouldered at fistral followed by a mellow sunset surf, not so good for the fingertips but there we go..

almost flat now, although apparently gwenvor was still a good 3ft yesterday, a real swell magnet that place
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 19, 2009, 05:57:46 pm
Quote
almost flat now, although apparently gwenvor was still a good 3ft yesterday, a real swell magnet that place

Hmmmmmmm.....  Was thinking weather is so good this weekend shame there is no surf... but on the other hand :goodidea:  I can feel another Cornish swell hunting raid coming on... Good bouldering at Gwenver too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 19, 2009, 07:25:33 pm
You from round there Ben!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2009, 08:46:33 pm
http://video.mpora.com/watch/YMuA06YNV/ (http://video.mpora.com/watch/YMuA06YNV/)

great Aileen's footage, plus some other nice clips.

I know it should be in quality non-climbing vids but not many people are interested.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 20, 2009, 10:18:48 am
Quote
great Aileen's footage, plus some other nice clips.

Nice one Chris... Probably the best footage i've seen from Aileen's and the the first proper barrel I've seen there too.  Heavy music for a heavy wave  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 20, 2009, 11:01:43 am
Anyone for the lleyn at easter?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 20, 2009, 12:42:29 pm
You from round there Ben!

assuming that's a question .. am from Bodmin way but now live near Truro

granticus - there's talk of a hidden underlying swell sneaking in at the weekend, however the winds will probably mess it up
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 20, 2009, 07:15:01 pm
Er...Yeah, Oh! Ok.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 21, 2009, 09:42:52 am
FD you up here next week? Poss some wave action if wind plays ball?  Evening sessions are on now. Stick a wetty in if you got room.


Not up next week but will be the following week. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2009, 10:21:17 am
Cool, clocks will have changed by then, let's hope there some waves about.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 28, 2009, 11:13:42 am
Slop, slop and more slop... :yawn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2009, 01:40:58 pm
howling windes here again. Snow this morning.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 28, 2009, 07:19:28 pm
Big swells out here at sea... strong winds too!
been watching the pulse all day... nothing else to do.
Funny how relaxing the vessel that I am on feels when it pitches and rolls... lot of sea sick folk.
Back for Easter... any one know what the breaks @ the Gower are called...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2009, 08:31:39 pm
Back for Easter... any one know what the breaks @ the Gower are called...


Llangenith is the main one. Big west facing beach. Often good banks, but a bith of a paddle when it's big.
Langland and Caswell can be good, but worth driving to Llangenith if you are going that far.

Oxwitch and Horton are worth remembering as they face SE and are offshore in big westerlies and storm swells.

Hopefully wind is good for early a.m. here tomorrow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 29, 2009, 06:44:25 am
Nice one SA.
going to throw away my stormrider, and just phone you!
Has dropped off out here! wind is still a little strong, but looks like a good swell could hit you...
have a good one!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on March 29, 2009, 10:54:13 am
amazing camera work/smooth step off for the first one, rest ain't too shabby either

http://surfermag.com/av/flash/2009_billabong_xxl_ride_of_the_year_nominees/ (http://surfermag.com/av/flash/2009_billabong_xxl_ride_of_the_year_nominees/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 29, 2009, 07:32:24 pm
Has dropped off out here! wind is still a little strong, but looks like a good swell could hit you...
have a good one!

Managed an early start, in spite of clock change screwing with my head. Banff was clean first thing, nice longboard waves on the beach, and just the 2 of us in initially. Cold air made water feel warmer, and nice chilly offshore breeze and sunny. Got a bit windier later and log was acting like a sail, so switched to fish and got on a fun little peak in the smaller beach that gets shelter from dunes and sea wall. Had a couple of good hours on that - 4 hours in water in total, all good apart from shoulder playing up again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2009, 12:25:01 pm
Tip for your shoulder...
try reversing the paddleing motion when ever you can! I.E when not surfing...
This helps the rotator cuff or something.
I had this issue... now I do not!
so there....
Love to surf Banff
doin two week on and of rotations... might stash a board up in Abo 4 the summer!!!!
Yeah baby... SUMMER!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 30, 2009, 12:47:42 pm
I've got a mental image of you stood on a platform in full PPE, eyeing the swells crossing the horizon whilst doing backstroke arm movements. Do the roughnecks treat you like the local loon?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2009, 02:03:27 pm
doin two week on and of rotations... might stash a board up in Abo 4 the summer!!!!

Space in our garage, rent is reasonable, portion of all monies accrued to the PatKingDebtCollection.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2009, 07:01:42 pm
Er... thanks anyway S.A. but I may just use the office!

They totally think I am Loonatune out here, even I have reserved my self to insanity...
I LOVE it... never been happier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 30, 2009, 09:02:46 pm
Quote
I LOVE it... never been happier.

Being treated as a 'Loonatune' or doing rotations offshore?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2009, 09:48:45 pm
Nah, my madness...
Fully developed my traditional style on the longboard!
cross stepping and back peddleing
Developed switch foot stance
Fins first take offs!!!
if you do Magic seaweed!
go to mexico
look at the small thumbnail video
Tis me last year...
I am 500x better!!!!
Must hook up JB
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2009, 09:37:33 pm
Going the same route as me; passed on my Roger Cooper minimal to a worthy recipient recently!

Not sure about Spider board - used to have good rep in SA, but have they gone mass production on some of the original Spider Murphy shapes and downhill in quality I think.

if you do a google search there are a few threads elsewhere that cast my boubts on quality.

Personally i went for a 7 ft 2" bullet fish (I am 6 ft 2") basically a drawn out fish shape, which took a bit of getting used to, but I love it now.

others know a fair bit more than me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 01, 2009, 01:19:39 am
Spider Boards...
They are now shaped in Newquay (aswell as SA)... mostly by Daniel Keggie, (DK Surfari).
He shaped my 9.4
You need to contact Brandon @ emoceanal... Newquay.
They still use a type of foam that is banned every where in the world except SA (the Manufacturing process is banned) however this is a bad thing for the folk that make the stuff, but great for surf boards... It really is light and suits fishes, funboards and alike!!!
Pin tails all the way for me now!!! loose and more acute take off ratios...
Think a egg could be worth looking at... Or 9plus magic carpets... But they a bit too retro for most! suit Longboarders!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 01, 2009, 04:55:05 pm
Quote
Does anyone have any experience of Spider boards?

Yep, Have a 6'' 8 squash tail thruster (kinda like a fat boy flyer thing, ie. lots of volume, good as a drop down board when moving towards a 'proper' shortboard).  The board goes very well, particularly in down the line point break surf I think Spider Murphy tested his shapes at J-Bay??  It is, however, let down by quality ie. a crappy glass job and has prooved to be fairly repair intensive.  There's more filler than board!

7''0 Rounded Pin from a mini-mal??  :-\ Hmmmmm..  7''0 rounded pin says this to me... large and I mean large (overhead plus) barrelling surf, the size would allow you to get into the wave ealier and the rounded pin would give you the hold you need to handle such waves.  It all comes down to how you want your surfing to progress and what kind of waves you want to get on.  So what are you after in your surfing experience... just gliding nice and smooth in a straight line, hot dogging (cross stepping, nose riding etc.), barrels, lip snaps/smashing, big hacks, aerials, big waves, small waves, what's your pleasure?  there will be a board to suit.  A few more questions where would you normally surf and what size waves do you feel confident in? Are you looking to drop down to an even shorter board in the future?(be honest!).  This will give us something to go on and then we can prescribe the correct treatment for your surfing needs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 01, 2009, 09:22:35 pm

I had heard about the glassing being an issue, but could only find old threads on the internet referring to them, so was wondering if it could be a problem of the past? SA Chris, when you say cast your doubts on this, do you mean they confirm your doubts or cast them into a firey pit of hell? Afraid I'm a bit too tired to read anything more complex than the beano at the moment.


I mean that they cause me to cast doubts on the quality. Unless you are going for super high performance, go for a heavier quality glass.

My understanding of foam manufacture is that one process ( I think the one that uses TDI - trimethyl di-isocyanate) is banned in most countries, due to harmful emissions which are bad for the planet, but SA regulations are a bit more lax.

Is the Roger Cooper a lightwieght epoxy board? I assumed it was conventional glass fibre? Reason I ask is that I have lightweight epoxy longboard, and it is really dire in any wind or chop, which slaps the bottom and reverberates.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 02, 2009, 04:10:13 pm
Gruff - Epoxy is the resin coating.  The O'Shea boards are still hand shaped.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 02, 2009, 05:40:20 pm
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.

Not sure what the others are going to recommend for you, but i have a 6'11 Spider Murphy thruster i am about to de-wax and sell on ebay. I used it as a transition board from Mal to shortboard. With your height it might not be a bad option?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 02, 2009, 06:37:57 pm
Do not like poxys!!!
Tufflites r okish,
think shortboards like the bonzers suit Epoxy/tufflite fabrics...
but anything larger... to much reverberation (or something like that).
you can get Bamboo boards nowadaze... and balsa... think the size and ethical statements you have made may warrant research here!
Foam boards are where its at!!!
Triple, or rosewood stringer 9 footers...
single fins and funky concaves...
Oh yeah!!!


I am the wrong person to ask for advice though...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 02, 2009, 07:13:28 pm
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.

Not sure what the others are going to recommend for you, but i have a 6'11 Spider Murphy thruster i am about to de-wax and sell on ebay. I used it as a transition board from Mal to shortboard. With your height it might not be a bad option?



Worth checking out Gruff.. sounds like it might be exactly what you're looking for. 

Do you know what the other dimensions of the 7'0 rounded pin are.  I've got one that I use as my travel board (18.5" wide and 2 1/4" thick)and it's exactly as Granticus describes.. made for big heavy surf and and it wouldn't suit what you're looking for at all.  My mate has a 7'0 rounded pin that's more like a slim mini mal/funboard that would be right up your street.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 07, 2009, 08:35:22 am
According to the Roger Cooper site info, all of his boards are glass. I think it's just incredibly buoyant, it has a lot of volume. So it's not just me being a bit soft then? Having the board reverberate gets on your tits as well?

Speaking of epoxy...is there a consensus yet? Good, bad, no different? O'shea claim to make hand shaped epoxy boards...is that possible? Forgive my ignorance.

On his site he does have a few epoxy boards, in the minimal and longboard sections, and makes them to order, so you may have ended up with a 2nd hand one. My "epoxy" board is fantastic in calm conditions, but if it is anything but glass and more wind than a light breeze, it slaps around on any chop and reverberates like hell, and I get my fish out.

I would avoid it in an all-round board myself.

There was a good article in Surfer's Path a while ago about pros and cons of different cores, can scan it for you if you want.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 10, 2009, 09:11:16 am
Quote
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.

My suggestion would be to go for something in the 6''8 to 6''10 ish range with plenty of volume and go for a modern template (ie. thruster) but don't get a retro board.  Would also suggest going for a squash tail (rounded).  The idea being to give you more manoeverability, whilst maintaining some float to give you a little more ease of paddling.  As for your backhand take offs... The problems you are experiencing are common and more practice to get things right will be all that'll help...   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 10, 2009, 09:27:24 am
 :) Adam's board would probably fit the bill for someone of your stature. Check the dimensions and make sure it's got plenty of volume...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 15, 2009, 01:37:04 pm
Good surf here, fistral peaked at about 8ft with the Cribber going off! elsewhere Clean!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 16, 2009, 11:32:33 am
Went to Watergate on Monday - lovely.

Moving to Devon in the summer. Where's best to get some practice in on the East coast before then? I live in Sheffield.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 12:49:37 pm
Lleyn was good all easter. This was about the only time it wasn't blazing sunshine.

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/NWales/ceriad-5.jpg)

Seem to be improving every session at the mo which is encouraging, need more fitness though and struggling getting out through the white water, got absolutlely worked the last two sessions. Any tips on getting a biggish board out through the breakers? What about turns? I'm pretty much totally self taught at the mo... making it up as I go...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 16, 2009, 01:07:16 pm
JB - what size/style board is it?

minimal upwards the popular technique is to make use of that extra length and get more ground covered between waves, then just paddle at 'em and hope. Pushing the nose under the lip/whitewater should stop you being flipped over backwards.  Another longboard technique is to roll over and pull the nose of the board down under the white water but I've never really mastered it and its time consuming.  Making up ground between waves and using the layout of the beach to your advantage are the keys though, ie don't just paddle straight out but weave around peaks to avoid the worst bits
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 16, 2009, 01:23:42 pm
used the power of my mind to find out what i needed:

http://magicseaweed.com/ (http://magicseaweed.com/)
http://www.a1surf.com/ (http://www.a1surf.com/)

for future ref.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 01:49:48 pm
Cheers for the tips Ben, its a 7'8" minimal. I've been trying the roll over technique and by the time I've sorted myself out the next wave is bearing down. Guess I'll try to be a bit bolder paddling straight at them, I was tending to abandon the board when I thought I was about to get flattened. Setting out from the beach I was doing Ok at following the rips, but getting back out after a wave I wasn't so clever.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 16, 2009, 02:11:43 pm
JB - another trick is to bide your time a bit. If you've just had a wave and the rest of the set is piling through, just hang out in the water, holding onto your leash and ducking your head under the waves - until a lull arrives.. then paddle like billio. tbh there doesn't seem to be a great technique for that kind of size board, however it looks like you're getting on ok from that pic, so you may be able to move onto a reasonably fat floaty shorter board sometime soon which you can duck dive.
Abandoning the board is fine if there's no one behind you, but again hold onto the leash so that its closer to hand to get back on after the wave - i find this kind of thing is quicker than trying the rollover thing, getting it wrong and then trying to recover in time
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2009, 02:11:47 pm
JB, what do you weigh? I could duck dive that board reasonably well but you need to be pretty aggressive. It's worth watching the waves and waiting for lulls between sets and then stroking for the horizon. before I learned to duckdive reasonably (I'm still pretty crap) I used to either a) wrap arms around top of board and just push it forward through wave, or b) if they are small enough, push up on the board so that it would sink and let the "wave" pass between me and the board. Never got on with the longboard roll technique - you don't cover thant much ground between waves.

What do you mean by turns? Judging by pic, first you need to get out the white water (you don't look far off); try paddling diagonally instead of straight for shore, and correct, so that the wave reaches you where it is peeling along the line. As you get to your feet look down the line where you want to go and you (should) go in that direction. easier to learn this front hand rather than back hand first. For turns up and dwon wave apply snowboard technique, but exaggerate it a bit. Glad you are progressing.

Abandoning the board is never a good idea in my opinion. You learn more from duking it out with the waves, and lose time retrieving the board before getting going again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 02:18:32 pm
Cheers guys, that's just what I was after. I'm 11 1/2 stone, to be honest I think the waves were a little big for me at the mo, the smallest session I got on great. All beach breaks though so not much consistency in where they break, I did get a couple of waves where I was out of the white water, more by luck though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 16, 2009, 03:09:04 pm
Nic pic JB..

First off, try to get used to not abandoning your board at the first sign of trouble. It's a bad habit for a number of reasons:

- It's dangerous if there are other surfers in the water.  
- You'll regret it the one day you do it in in big surf and your leash breaks leaving you in the sh*t.
- It's sort of like resting on gear or grabbing a clip in that it'll become a habit every time a large set looms on the horizon and one that's hard to break.
- It'll actually drag you further backwards more than hanging on and taking a beating.

Just hold on to the damn thing for dear life. When you start going out in heavy places you'll appreciate why.  I have indentations in the rails of a couple of my boards from gripping so tight.

As for paddling out, like the others have said.  

- Wait for the lulls, but start to paddle out just at the end of a set so you are already motoring during the lull.  
- Paddle out away from the peak rather than into it, if you are surfing the mouth, there are rips either side of the main boardwalk peak that offer an easier route out back.
- Keep paddling until you are sure you are out back. Usually the water colour will change to a deeper blue, green (or brown) when you're out of where the waves have been breaking.  Once you're there, give yourself plenty of time to recover and let a set or two go through.
- Keep your head down, forehead on the front of the board and keep a steady even stroke and it'll take some of the strain off the shoulders.
- If you've caught a wave rather than paddling right back out to the peak keep heading diagonally to the direction in which you were riding away from the peak as it's likely that the water is draining back that way and you'll eventually pick up a rip.

Duck diving
- It's tricky on bigger boards but one way is to make sure you tilt it sideways as you push it down so it cuts through the water easier.

Turns?

- You're probably looking down at your feet a lot at the moment so once you get confident just look and point (seriously) where you want the board to go and it will do so through the twist in your shoulders  :).

Me and Mrs FD have a few weekends in Abersoch coming up so I'll PM you once we have dates firmed and see if we can catch some waves.




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 03:29:57 pm
Perfect. I've left all my stuff stashed down there so will be well keen.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2009, 03:33:11 pm
I'm 11 1/2 stone

Quite a bit less than me, but I have seen guys with less weither than me duckdive it. As always, more about technique that power. I found practicing duckdiving when you don't have to (in about chest high where you can stand up if it goes wrong) to be a bit of a confidence builder.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on April 16, 2009, 08:30:05 pm
i found a weird sort of press up/ half duck dive worked ok on the big bic.  kinda punch the nose of the board under the white and dive yourself as over/through it as you can.  i still seemed to spend an awful lot of time getting mullered.  can duck dive the new one 8)

ps.  how on earth did you manage to get to nigels port when it wasnt force 6 onshore.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 10:19:59 pm
That photo is at Ceriad, should be obvious from the peak (and lack of chop). Weather was amazing all weekend though, light winds and swell, mostly sunshine (Jim asked if I'd been on a sunbed today), when we left on weds there was still a decent swell and the wind was even offshore.

Most of the time the waves were too big for the push-up method. It worked fine on the smaller ones though. Got the new board sussed yet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 17, 2009, 08:52:16 am
It's not the easiest place to learn to surf with it being so peaky and with the wave jacking up quickly so good effort.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 17, 2009, 09:01:09 am
(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/102472.jpg)

Words not required.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 17, 2009, 10:32:34 am
Must be getting warm in Aberdeen.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 17, 2009, 10:39:11 am
In my dreams.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 18, 2009, 11:49:33 am
With my boards, I tend to paddle through the breakers with the board backwards... then hold your ground before the lull, swing it back to paddle mode and make for it out back... This really work for me in bigger water...
Also stops turtle rolling which is totally gay and should be banned at all good breaks...
Just kidding,
Nice pic JB did you take it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 18, 2009, 12:41:52 pm
Hey all,

Am looking at replacing a Roger Cooper 7'6" mini-mal with something a tad shorter.

Does anyone have any experience of Spider boards? Think they're shaped in SA, Chris?

Am specifically looking at: 7'0" Round Pin Tail (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=1&Product_Code=SPI70R&Category_Code=SPIDER)

Any thoughts or alternatives even?

Cheers,

Gruff

Hey Gruff,
without know your weight and height and types of breaks your surfing. beach breaks i guess.. (weight around 70 -80 kg around 5'10 tall??)
i would suggest getting a round square tail around 6'6 to 6'8 19 1/2 inches wide and around 2 1/2 inches thick (max) 2 5/16 (min)
at first this will feel like a toothpick. but it will give you a new found freedom in getting out the back without expending copious amounts of energy.
learning / stepping up from learning using a big board (6'10 or bigger) or mal is a false economy...
yes you will be able to stand up and drive a stright line to the sand quicker, but the essential skills of duck diving will never or at least take a millenium to master.
why spend 80% of your session getting battered and washed back to shore when you could be spending 60% learning to duck dive. the other 20% learning to stand up and progressing with your turns, the remaining 20% you will spend paddling around going for waves that you have no chance in hell of catching or paddling for waves that close out be fore you get to your feet.
i'm not being condescending, but this last 20% will slowly go away in time / experience.

history and the shear volume of square tail boards being produced worldwide show that it is a proven shape.
from my experience in surfing in the uk, this style of board will be well suited for you until you get to a level when you exactly know what you want without needing to ask others.

an epoxy board maybe handy, as i they offer some longevity compared to foam boards.


 i hope this advice helps..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2009, 11:09:06 am
Who thinks it's time to start a separate Surf board (no pun intended) on ukb? Seems like there are a good few of us who're into it.

I think it's a good idea? Lots of info gets squeezed into this one thread.

Had good surf Sat afternoon at Aberdeen on longobard, then on fish at Philorth Fraserburgh on Sunday morning. Sun was shining, and only two of us in water for most of session. Started off good, but low tide banks were a mess, so session went downhill quite rapidly.

Nice beach - quite atmospheric, and Fraserburgh is nicer from a distance, and the recent wreck of the Sovereign is quite impressive.

(http://www.petercrumpler.co.uk/The%20Sea/album/slides/Shipwreck%20near%20Fraserburgh.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 11:20:28 am
Quote
Nice pic JB did you take it?

No Ellie took it, its me...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave on April 20, 2009, 11:31:10 am
i had this vision of you setting the self-timer and paddled out like billio.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: cofe on April 20, 2009, 11:34:42 am
...shouting "beat that, Galen!"

 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 20, 2009, 12:36:04 pm
Hey Gruff,
without know your weight and height and types of breaks your surfing. beach breaks i guess.. (weight around 70 -80 kg around 5'10 tall??)
i would suggest getting a round square tail around 6'6 to 6'8 19 1/2 inches wide and around 2 1/2 inches thick (max) 2 5/16 (min)
at first this will feel like a toothpick. but it will give you a new found freedom in getting out the back without expending copious amounts of energy.
learning / stepping up from learning using a big board (6'10 or bigger) or mal is a false economy...

Hi Gav good to hear from you.

I hear what you're saying but only half agree. You're a miles better surfer than anyone on here and I totally respect your opinions when it comes to surfing but I'm wondering whether you are overestimating peoples ability to learn quickly.  I remember going to Spain with Darren when he was on a 6'8 and he struggled his t*ts off the whole time just catching waves and getting to his feet. I thought he should have been on something bigger and more stable - not a mini-mal but a larger funboard.  I just think that for a weekend warrior, covered in neoprane who isn't going to get that much water time going down to a 6'6 is too much of a big step... but then again you never know eh  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 20, 2009, 12:45:40 pm

Seem to be improving every session at the mo which is encouraging, need more fitness though and struggling getting out through the white water, got absolutlely worked the last two sessions. Any tips on getting a biggish board out through the breakers? What about turns? I'm pretty much totally self taught at the mo... making it up as I go...

a very useful tip is buy a water proof watch. time how much time passes in between sets. do this over 3 sets of sets. you should get a fairly good idea on how much time you have to get out the back.
given that the UK generally has short period swell, it won't be that long a time frame.
also count how many waves per set (3-5). when you're ready to do battle, wait for the second last wave of the set to break out the back. when that has happened, start your journey.
put your head down an paddle hard.
as perviously mentioned, look for the obvious advantages like rips or deep gutters to cover ground quickly.

addit: if you are going to bail out, grab on to your rail saver (the webbed section of your leg rope that meets the string of your board) hang on like your life depended on it. this will mean that your board has less chance of smaking someone in the head, and also means your board will be net to you to get on quicker to get the hell out of there.
PS, don't hold it next to the plug, if your hand gets caught between the leggie and board, you'll be hurting...

another thing, very simple, if your with others in the line up, tell them your intentions. atleast they will have time to get away from you.

in regards to turns, learnand master the cross over stepping. this is moving up or down the board stepping over the other foot. not a shuffle, this is a invaluable skill that will help you make those subtle adjustments in a quick effiecient manner.

if you want any more info, feel free to give me a PM.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 12:54:05 pm
Cheers for the tips. Bit confused on the cross-step though, only on a 7'8" which would seem like a big (not subtle aty any rate) adjustment? Maybe my feet are too far apart to start with?

Anyone for lleyn may bank?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 20, 2009, 01:02:11 pm
cross stepping is the same as walking on a tight rope.
albeit not as wobbly.
the natural tendency is to shuffle both feet forward / backward keeping your prefferred foot always at the front.
this will take time, best way is to find a slow fat wave and trim along it. i can't think of many classic points over there, probably the caves at sandsend, thats a great longboard wave.
as i don't surf there any more, i don't mind tell people to surf there   :guilty:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 20, 2009, 01:22:04 pm
how do i put images on here??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 01:38:33 pm
Ah, I see. Like going switch on a snowboard?

Posting pics: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6411.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6411.0.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 20, 2009, 01:47:35 pm
erm, no, not like going switch.
what you are doing is moving forward / backward on your board.
generally backward over the fins / tail to urn you mal, moving forward to ganin trim speed, going over a flat bit of water and either hanging five or ten.
being in sheff, you have many ways to practice this. when leaving the sheaf view, find the gutter edge and walk along it. backward and forward.
the shuffle technic is like little jumps with both feet, stepping over is a more elegant method of walking up / down the board. if you can do this after 6 pints of warmiester or kuppers Kolsch you'll be ripping in no time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2009, 01:49:21 pm

I hear what you're saying but only half agree. You're a miles better surfer than anyone on here and I totally respect your opinions when it comes to surfing but I'm wondering whether you are overestimating peoples ability to learn quickly.  I remember going to Spain with Darren when he was on a 6'8 and he struggled his t*ts off the whole time just catching waves and getting to his feet. I thought he should have been on something bigger and more stable - not a mini-mal but a larger funboard.  I just think that for a weekend warrior, covered in neoprane who isn't going to get that much water time going down to a 6'6 is too much of a big step... but then again you never know eh  :shrug:

I see both sides of this. I think if you are prepared to put the days and hours in and struggle initially on a shortboard, you will make more gains in the long term, but have a pretty miserable time of it and take a big share of hard knocks to body, ego and spirit. If, however, you only surf occasionally and want to enjoy the ride and progress steadily, making a gradual transition down the board sizes is the way to go.

JB, we are in the County over the early may bank, so will be in the water there if there are any waves about, an option if the forecast is good.

Cross stepping is stylistically and technically better and something to aim for, but when starting off the old two step shuffle can be effective.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 01:52:50 pm
Right. Sounds like what Idol eyes is up to on his mexico vid. I'm okay on a slackline so I guess I can skip the sheaf gutter. Getting a ride long enough to start wandering about might be a challenge though, I'll try the shuffle thing though, had a couple of rides where it was immediately obvious I was too far back or forward.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2009, 01:55:00 pm
On your board it is pretty obvious where you want your feet to be - some pressure dents there!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 20, 2009, 02:07:37 pm
next time you take your wax off, get a marker pen and mark on the deck where you want your front foot when you get up.
kick your missus out of bed, get your board on it, sans fins. and practice jumping to your feet.
look at wheere they are inrelation to therea re from the black line.

i had a mega eddie aikau power stance as a grommet, but this technique brought my feet closer and and helped my percentages in getting to my feet first go.

pressure dents on the deck may not be indicative as to where your feet need to be if your aren't getting it right all the ime.
also being on a mal, your feet should be all over the board after getting to your feet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 20, 2009, 03:03:14 pm
On 'Turning'...

On a long board (or any board for that matter) you will need to have your back foot over the fins (ie. right at the back of the board).
The movement you require is rotational and starts with your head (mastering these rotational movements will enable you to generate speed as well!) 
Turn your head to where you want to go and the rest of the body will follow, along with your board.
You can practice this and visualise the movements on dry land.
Stand in your surfing stance, get nice and crouched, rotate your body (start with your head) in the direction you wish to turn.  If you do this in socks on a slippy floor your front foot should get dragged around.
Now do this with your eyes closed imagining you are KS or whoever your chosen surfing hero is.  Visualise the take off, the bottom turn, lining up the lip, the turn off the lip... etc..
For cut backs, big hacks, big carves etc.. this basic movement is adjusted, a slower wider arc for big carves, a faster more exagerrated movement for that wack the lip send a fan of spray thing...
Linking turns together will generate speed (pumping)...
Watch videos and other surfers to see how others work with the waves..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2009, 09:38:51 am
This has just been published.

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Q74PELNSL._SL500_AA240_.jpg)

If it's anything like Surf Science it will be worth getting, just hope it isn't a rehash of the info in that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 24, 2009, 12:20:43 pm
fantastic swell down here... really good few daze... yesterday was fully cooking at Fistral.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 25, 2009, 10:11:05 am
same down here, yesterday solid double overhead (6ft) and off shore, today was absolute perfection blues skies and slight offshores - 8 ft with rouge 10 ft clean ups. :o  :o
very very scary the 10footers were absolutley terrifying...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 25, 2009, 08:17:56 pm
Where is down here?
Towan beaches pumped some good lines through, tomorrow should reduce size... and increase in quality!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 26, 2009, 10:53:03 am
HMP Australia
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 29, 2009, 05:34:54 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/2367849995_116c710407_o.jpg)

For Gruff!  It wasn't like this last weekend now was it!!!???   :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Turboman on May 05, 2009, 10:36:50 am
Heading to the West Coast of France (Vendee region) in July for a fortnight of summer surf.

I'm trying to solve the annual conundrum of keeping the misses happy with restaurants, shops and general sightseeing whilst maximising wave time for me.

Looking for any campsite/gite recommendations close to or on a beach with a reasonable wave.

I've cross referenced wannasurf with Eurocamp and it seems the whole coast is one long beach break/campsite. 

Anyone stayed near Sable D'Olonne or St Gile Croix de Vie?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2009, 01:17:04 pm
More cross forum posts http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16166 (http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16166)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Turboman on May 05, 2009, 02:48:50 pm
Cheers Chris,

Been having problems getting on Magicseaweed
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11595.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11595.0.html)

Managed to find a cached page

Les Sable D'olonne on a peninsula called la chaume, you can see the site on google earth and it is right on the beach on the edge of a forest and sand dunes and you can get on a water taxi accross to Les Sable D'olonne for the town and restaurants . I went for 10 days from june 22 last year and had epic surf every day minimum 5ft. I found a beach which had superb surf less than 5 mins away from our site called sauveteer. Loads of beaches with loads of great surf.
I have booked again and am going again on june 20th.


Sounds perfect.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 05, 2009, 04:37:01 pm
Quote
I know it isn't exactly hand made by a local shaper but I did a bit of research before parting with the money and think it'll do for me for the moment. It was Bill Attlee - the shapers - comments in this thread that swayed me, I wouldn't have been particularly interested in something made in China otherwise
Yeah... A lot of shapers are sourcing their work out to China nowadays, you may well be supporting your local shaper who is then in turn supporting machine operaters out in China.  It's difficult one!  The boards look good though, think it is more important to hear that the shaper has a good relationship with the factory and is keeping a handle on quality etc..  Let us know how she rides!

My climbing strength is improving no end at the moment... ie... the surf has been pish!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2009, 05:10:49 pm

My climbing strength is improving no end at the moment... ie... the surf has been pish!

You don't know pish mate. East coast has been flat for ages, and nothing in the forecast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 05, 2009, 05:15:44 pm
Following on from my post earlier about my board that i am selling. Anyone care to suggest how much its worth now.  :shrug: I am out the loop with surfboard prices now, having not been in the water for ages.

Its a 6ft 11 Spider Murphy Thruster. Excellent condition.

Going to put it on ebay, but if anyone on here wants it let me know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 05, 2009, 05:47:49 pm
Following on from my post earlier about my board that i am selling. Anyone care to suggest how much its worth now.  :shrug: I am out the loop with surfboard prices now, having not been in the water for ages.

Its a 6ft 11 Spider Murphy Thruster. Excellent condition.

Going to put it on ebay, but if anyone on here wants it let me know.

I'll swap it for first edition copy of Extreme Rock (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11557.0/all.html)  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 07, 2009, 07:28:12 am
This link shows sennen cove in a major storm in March 08.  anyone who has surfed or climbed there will probably be quite astonished.  Do you think demo route will be in nick?

http://www.sennen-cove.com/10march08.htm (http://www.sennen-cove.com/10march08.htm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 07, 2009, 08:56:03 am
A tad damp perhaps (not the same storm though, dated 29 December 2008)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3106/3147575406_5c38526320.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/phil_berriman/3147575406/)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 07, 2009, 10:09:16 am
I'm heading to Abersoch tonight until Monday.  Looks like the North Coast will get some swell and be offshore tomorrow teatime.  PM me if anyone is around...

Ben
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 08, 2009, 12:42:07 pm
Heading to the West Coast of France (Vendee region) in July for a fortnight of summer surf.
Have been a couple of times to Cap d'Homy which is halfway between Bordeaux and Biarritz. Little 'summer bay' type place, big campsite, boulanger, small grocers, bar and a surf shop.. all you need. Campsite is relatively cheap, really good and 5mins walk to the plage. Lovely tarmac cycle tracks up/down the coast (great restaurant to cycle to for lunch 40mins up coast). Funky old lighthouse. Wave isn't the best in the area but reasonably decent and gets same swell as others obviously.  Only thing is if weather/surf aint great then there isn't really anything to do close by, but that sums up that whole bit of coast really.

Campsite here >>
http://www.camping-cap.com/ (http://www.camping-cap.com/)

surf might finally come good for SW this weekend, light winds
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 12, 2009, 08:29:56 am
Some nice surfing footage on the BBC's South Pacific (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00kjjnx/South_Pacific_Series_1_Ocean_of_Islands/). Slo-mo, high def from inside the wave. Its all in the first ten minutes, then there's a bit on how they filmed it at the end.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 12, 2009, 12:06:57 pm
Saw a trailer for the ultra-slo-mo Hi Def waves the other day on BBC but forgot to watch the program last night  :rtfm:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2009, 12:12:03 pm
It's on iPlayer. Watched it last night, will watch again tnight, and probably tomorrow. Just love it. And the "too small" waves looked ideal to me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 12, 2009, 12:12:13 pm
Yeah, those vortices are astonishing. I love the smoothness of the barrels broken only by drops falling off the lip too. The footage of the waves alone was so good I was pretty surprised when a surfer slid into view.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 13, 2009, 05:20:58 am
Beautifull!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2009, 08:05:39 am
Check out those vortices! How does that work?

Trying to figure that one out. I reckon the wave front moves faster than the back, so pressure decreases in the middle of the wave and sucks air in. Sort of like cavitation. Looks amazing anyway.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 13, 2009, 09:23:46 am
IIRC The vortices you can see in shot are like just waves forming on the lip of the bigger wave and is something to do with what chris described.

You boys need to get to Indo on a boat trip so you can do this kind of thing for real.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2009, 09:54:20 am
No-one likes a gloater. Maybe one day.....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 13, 2009, 10:00:18 am
I have bodysurfed/ snorkelled inside waves at Waimea and sunset, but I think I'll learn to turn before hiring a boat in indo.

How was Lleyn?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 13, 2009, 11:08:04 am
I should've put a smiley... Chris - You're more than capable now.

JB - I wouldn't worry about turning when you can casually mention bodysurfing Waimea  8)

Lleyn was blown out and onshore on Friday and Saturday with nothing showing through on the North.  The weather was a bit pants so went bouldering at Hyll Drem, walked on the beach and trained the puppies, slept and read books.  Very relaxing..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2009, 11:53:11 am
Sadly not financially capable. Only boat trip this year will be either to Hebrides or Ireland (did you get my email the other day?).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 13, 2009, 08:08:54 pm
good god!  there may even be a swell on the east the weekend - might be at the ska bro saturday
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 14, 2009, 03:11:08 pm
onshore mush I reckon, I'm afraid, might be some gaps in the wind though.

Got me one of these recently:

http://www.lushlongboards.com/lush-balance-board-p-2224.html (http://www.lushlongboards.com/lush-balance-board-p-2224.html)

Great fun, and good for brushing up on dynamic balance skills.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 14, 2009, 06:34:01 pm
I have one like that but with a wheel at each corner.

better swell seems to now have switched to the west now.  again will be nasty onshore but im getting desperate.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 15, 2009, 08:32:46 am
again will be nasty onshore but im getting desperate.

I hear ya. Was onshore slop this morning in Aberdeen, but I just can't bring myself to try and surf it, cos I know I will have a bloody miserable time. I know I should, and it would be good for me at least for a paddle about if nothing else, but I just hate trying to surf it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 15, 2009, 10:33:38 am
Aye!  Making plans for this weekend has been a nightmare..  Looked like south coast was gonna fire big style earlier in the week and possible for east, was planning to hit K-bay but it's all switched round yesterday.  Croyde was 4ft clean and lush last night but I was stuck working with 'da yoofs', so missed that one, it was painful looking at the webcams and knowing that is 10mins away.  Very blown out this arvo but I think I know a sheltered spot that'll be firing at low-tide, wind is switching this evening..  Looking good for sheltered spots in the SW for Sunday..  Anywhere offshore in Southerly should be on, gotta find somewhere away from the weekend crowds that are starting to appear though..   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 15, 2009, 11:11:33 am
Was planning a long blast up to far NW tonight, but looks like swell aint gonna last.

But it will happen. Oh yes it will happen.

Also looks like Calmac might be starting sunday sailings from Hebs sometime soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 16, 2009, 06:40:52 am
Stuck in the Irish sea for the next three months.... all that water, but not a drop to surf!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2009, 07:23:07 am
BHP?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2009, 09:52:41 am
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/)

Once it is loaded, you can run your cursor accross the screen to get the sequence. Love the boards hanging off the lip, and the shadow figure hidden in the depths of the barrel.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 19, 2009, 10:45:05 am
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/)

Once it is loaded, you can run your cursor accross the screen to get the sequence. Love the boards hanging off the lip, and the shadow figure hidden in the depths of the barrel.

That's incredible! How many people only just made it over that lip! I count at least two bodyboarders and a surfer somewhere in there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2009, 10:55:51 am
There the paddle marks from someone duck diving just left of him, then a boarder and a sponger. Imagine clawing your way up the face of that monster, or drawing breath and diving as deep as you can possibly go.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 23, 2009, 09:49:49 am
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/)

Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 23, 2009, 10:06:55 am
Been checking out MrB's work.
http://www.youtube.com/user/mrbproductions (http://www.youtube.com/user/mrbproductions)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 23, 2009, 05:48:00 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/)

Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...
:o Thats some big waves (e.g. @12mins)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 25, 2009, 08:40:26 am
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/)

Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...

The DVD is free with this month's Carve, some amazing footage, and nicely filmed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 26, 2009, 03:44:46 pm
Have got Mr B's film 'Substance' (DVD) which is also quality featuring waves/surfers from the UK and Eire.  Features epic brown pits somewhere in the North East, a certain break in Exmoor that should be secret but isn't  :'(  , Thurso East going off, Porthleven going off, Brim's Ness ditto etc. etc..  It get's me pysched for surfing in this country!  'There is good waves is this country, I know there is........'
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on June 12, 2009, 02:11:54 pm
Surfing in Liberia (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/in_pictures/8092112.stm)

Don't surf, but doesn't look that great to my untrained eye  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 12, 2009, 02:39:55 pm
Not the most amazing, but not the worst I have seen, ie Aberdeen for the last 2 months.

No surprise there are waves - you only have to look at a map.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 14, 2009, 02:40:34 pm
Just got in from a 4 hour sess at Porth Ceriad and had another lengthy outing yesterday.  Nice waves and was wearing a new Excel 3/2 and no booties... Sweet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 15, 2009, 02:30:09 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/Swell-Call:-Indos-Big-Tuesday-Content/1643/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Swell-Call:-Indos-Big-Tuesday-Content/1643/)

 :jaw:

jesus
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 15, 2009, 02:39:43 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/Jimmys-Point-Surf-Report/630/detailedLongRange/uk/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Jimmys-Point-Surf-Report/630/detailedLongRange/uk/)

shit the bed.

I would be running away and hiding.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 15, 2009, 04:23:38 pm
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 15, 2009, 04:29:57 pm
At work til Friday, damn it. I take it you or the waves'll not be still around next week?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 15, 2009, 06:43:12 pm
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace

Where the flip are you finding waves?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 15, 2009, 07:32:40 pm
Been swell all weekend in Devon  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 15, 2009, 08:55:25 pm
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace

Where the flip are you finding waves?

Ceriad.. been out the last three days on the trot  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 15, 2009, 09:00:36 pm
At work til Friday, damn it. I take it you or the waves'll not be still around next week?

'fraid not. Back in the peak Saturday... will check the forecast and let you know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 15, 2009, 09:19:59 pm
Magic seaweed north wales forecasts are a work of fiction.  checked the westcoastsurf and it looks completely different to the 1.5feet reported.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 16, 2009, 08:16:56 am
Magic seaweed forecasts are a work of fiction

It's based on a model that is often wrong, especially overestimating wind strengths. Worth getting a copy of the book Surf Science, and forecasting for yourself.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: eteve on June 16, 2009, 08:36:25 pm
http://surfcore.co.uk/ (http://surfcore.co.uk/) or check this uses different data. I quite like it. interested to see what others think.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 17, 2009, 06:19:01 am
I think surfcore is only slightly worse than MSW.

and on a par with www.surf-forecast.com (http://www.surf-forecast.com) which will give you forecasts for well know spots like Talisker bay on Skye.

Anyhoo, on a speculative punt we blasted up to Philorth at Fraserburgh last night and were rewarded with a nice small clean swell, even if offshores were a bit harsh. Great logging session, just two of us in and sunny skies. Used my Go-Pro Camera for first time - will post some clips if there are any good ones.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on June 18, 2009, 02:39:23 pm
pulled on the steamer for the first time since late august last year.
bloody desperate to paddle in. i'll have to go some where like indo till the water and weather warms up, or do more climbing....
god knows how and why i put up with the conditions on the yorkshire coast for so long!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 18, 2009, 03:48:32 pm
Water and Weather are just about as warm as it gets?? I didn't need hood on tuesday - scorchio!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2009, 08:42:07 am
This should probably go in non-quality non-climbing video, but thought it would be of more interest here

First time I have used GoPro Camera in water. Results are OK, less said about surfing.

http://www.chrissboggyblog.blogspot.com/ (http://www.chrissboggyblog.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 19, 2009, 04:14:16 pm
Good qualit yon those videos.  a whole 18 seconds of ride.  i might need to get a log.  is that sound you breaking wind into your wetsuit?
Its a weird take off.  doesnt look like theres a wave there at all.  and no foam visible to whole ride.  interesting.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2009, 04:28:00 pm
The sound is a wierd one, not sure if it picks up echoes in the board? There is a lower sound option, might try that next time.

Waves were really small, and with the lightweight log you can catch them at the point of breaking if you paddle fast enough and just ride the swell if you come forward enough on the board.

I am not convinced that the lightweight boards are ideal for UK and especially not Scotland, as they are amazing when it's glassy, but crap if there is anything more than a light breeze as they reverberate from the chop, and are like a sail in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 19, 2009, 04:30:41 pm
PS.  never show me a video of you enjoying powder like that ever again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 19, 2009, 05:08:32 pm
I went to Cornwall at half term.  it was flat, on shore and raining.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3640840415_dc56bbcde9.jpg?v=1245427207)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3353/3640847627_a2654d684a.jpg?v=1245427122)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/3641652738_df1291e496.jpg?v=1245427169)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3640850647_3231318a95.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3538/3641662544_d672d4a375.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3662/3641665766_31b74e9d2e.jpg?v=0[/img

[img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3311/3640860059_838a1da85c.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3640863157_12090104cd.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3635/3640866655_31074fc3de.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3614/3640869109_1994065d7d.jpg?v=0)

Noooooooooooot! :thumbsup: :bounce:

Can anyone tell me what all those parallel lines on the sea are?  Weird!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2009, 09:17:31 pm
PS.  never show me a video of you enjoying powder like that ever again.

I haven't finished editing the clips from the day on the snowcats yet.

Some nice looking lines there and some good pics. Haven't seen shit like that on the E Coast for a while. Still September isn't far off.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on June 26, 2009, 10:20:46 pm
after a big layoff (one year!!!) i have finally taken my longboard back home and will try and catch some waves tomorrow and sunday.
i know that when i'll be out there, fighting to get to the peak, with my shoulders burning and my arms destroyed after 12 seconds paddling, i'll be hating that. until i catch a wave...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 27, 2009, 08:17:46 pm
some good waves in the northeast today, just got back from a kayak session in them, photos to follow
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 27, 2009, 08:59:51 pm
warning, horrific quality from a waterproof camera:


(http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs109.snc1/4926_1172305620334_1008824910_541038_567546_n.jpg)

(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs089.snc1/4926_1172305700336_1008824910_541040_5332498_n.jpg)

(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs089.snc1/4926_1172305820339_1008824910_541043_853388_n.jpg)

(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs109.snc1/4926_1172306660360_1008824910_541064_2899255_n.jpg)


and an elegant moment from me

(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs089.snc1/4926_1172306340352_1008824910_541056_3038526_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 27, 2009, 09:27:17 pm
Just leave ok.  You dont need to say anything, we wont hold it against you, just go and it will never be mentioned again.

Paddler! :wank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 28, 2009, 03:11:10 am
Hahaha the sin of all sins
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on June 28, 2009, 09:52:06 am
yyfy!!!
i got wet again, and i found out i'm still able to catch and ride a wave!!!
3,5 hours session yesterday, 2-3 feet with the occasional 4 feet "bomb". looooong rides. i've been strangely clever, taking my time and choosing the sets, instead of going for everything and being destroyed after five minutes. i also took the chance to try my friend's takayama 9'3" "in the pink" and that's a nice board blimey.
two people out.
when we paddled in at 8 pm my friend told me "i'm proud of you".
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on June 29, 2009, 02:15:02 pm
where's a great white when you need one.
goatboaters, the haemorrhoids of the ocean.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 29, 2009, 07:58:11 pm
Oh dear Philo, you do seem to have rather put your foot in it!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on June 29, 2009, 08:52:57 pm
Think those boats belong on a river, a Riot Trickster by the looks of it and some other orange bit of something that belongs hanging at the side of the public swimming pool. A proper surf kayak would put them to shame so not worth comparing in any way. Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on June 30, 2009, 03:47:55 am
Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.

i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.

ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!!  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on June 30, 2009, 05:54:08 am
Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.

i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.

ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!!  :thumbsdown:
I don't see any surfers in Philo's photos - why all the kneejerk aggro?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 30, 2009, 09:25:42 am
Mine was tongue in cheek (he can check his karma) but i seem to have started something... :oops:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on June 30, 2009, 01:04:55 pm
ohh Andy,
get a life mate,  :wank:
it's all banter.

don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on June 30, 2009, 05:46:23 pm
ohh Andy,
get a life mate,  :wank:
it's all banter.

don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....


Oh I see - my mistake - you were being funny - for a moment, I thought it was another tedious outdoor clique....
 :wave:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 01, 2009, 03:11:46 am
Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.

i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.

ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!!  :thumbsdown:
I don't see any surfers in Philo's photos - why all the kneejerk aggro?

there were surfers about half a mile down the shore but we made sure we were away from the crowd, only us in the water! was a right laugh anyways
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on July 02, 2009, 11:23:35 pm
ohh Andy,
get a life mate,  :wank:
it's all banter.

don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....


Oh I see - my mistake - you were being funny - for a moment, I thought it was another tedious outdoor clique....
 :wave:

Have you actually got any investment in the issue Andy? Kayaker/surfer? Or have you just decided to get all libertarian about something for the sake of it? It's obviously all banter. From my limited experience I've seen plenty of cliquey shit going on in the world of surfing, what we're writing here is hardly it.

I am wholly neutral on the matter - I do some sea kayaking and I do a poor imitation of surfing, both of these at highly punterish levels - I've simply never heard this before, so was genuinely surprised to read it, but that's just my ignorance of the cliques in watersports.  Obviously I am painfully aware of the various cliques in climbing as I've been doing it for just over 20 years, so shouldn't be too surprised that they exist elsewhere.  Maybe not having lived in the UK for 8 years has dulled my appreciation of banter.
Have fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2009, 06:32:56 am
Don't confuse sea kayaking with goatboating.

Also, anyone seen charts for E coast? (whistles).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 07, 2009, 08:23:09 am
Yep. It's looking good for the East this coming weekend.  I'm in North Wales though partying at Wakestock  :alky:  :pissed:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2009, 03:20:55 pm
 :o  Philo! The kind of sight that strikes fear into my heart..  Looks like you all had fun, just remember the closest to the peak is the rightful owner of the wave and repeatedly being snaked by goat boaters/kayakers has given you folks a bad rep in the surfing community..  I do occasionally surf with one but I make him walk to the beach 100 yards behind me and he's not aloud to speak to me until we've left the beach.  :P (He rides really well in his plastic tub but knows in his heart that he would rather stand up.)  My new subject for loathing has to be SUPs though...
Quote
don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....
  You got me sussed  8)

Swell alert - for the North East...I am feeling a weekend trip coming on to catch the last of it Friday and Saturday then nip down to support my mate who should be in the final of the BBCs oN Sunday(assuming he doesn't get injured again).  Question is where should i go? I have a penchant for heaving barrelling slabs, being a goof I like me lefts and i am seriouly not adverse to surfing over the hard stuff, slack beach breaks are not my thing, normally surf Croyde at low-tide and various reefs/points around North Devon.    A little local knowledge would be appreaciated...  I'm not suggesting giving up all your secrets but would love to know of any waves that would be on this weekend? 


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2009, 03:59:53 pm
Cheers for the PM FD :thumbsup:  I knew about that place beginning with S..... but the other spots you've mentioned sound like they're worth checking out, expect S.... will get busy at the weekend anyways..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2009, 04:51:21 pm
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss   .......... Scarborough..  and Whitby Bay  Thanks a bunch FD... :P
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious: 
Suppose you think you're  funny:lol:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 08, 2009, 11:03:32 pm
some 6ft barrels today off the coast of sunderland. lots and lots of surfers in the water too, most ive seen
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 09, 2009, 10:00:14 am
Sadly we are too close to the low and it's windy as fuck here still. Horrible mess in Aberdeen this am, spent an hour chasing peaks. Hopefully wind will drop off a bit tonight / tomorrow / Saturday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 09, 2009, 03:51:35 pm
Yep... Good swell hitting the NE at the mo but looks like it's gonna fade by the time we get up there not worth the mission...  However.....  SW is in for some swell this weekend, heading down for a Kernow raid instead..  Just gotta find those sheltered spots..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 09, 2009, 10:48:42 pm
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss   .......... Scarborough..  and Whitby Bay  Thanks a bunch FD... :P
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious: 
Suppose you think you're  funny:lol:


well done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.


 :wave:

what happened to initative, grab some fuel and a map and find your waves. the north east isn't like the the west coast of OZ...........
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 10, 2009, 01:57:08 am
 :o 8-9 foot sets today absolute monsters in comparison to normal, get your arses north eastwards!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 10, 2009, 08:28:21 am
Oldfella is going to love you.

Still blown out shit for Aberdeen, although apparently Nigg cleaned up late last night, and produced a wave or two big enough for a mate to get his shoulder dislocated.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 11, 2009, 10:03:20 am
:o 8-9 foot sets today absolute monsters in comparison to normal, get your arses north eastwards!

yes get in that fucking plastic kazoo is paddle to Norway...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 12, 2009, 10:41:39 pm
Edited some surf clips with the Go Pro Camera together. Feel free to take the piss, but I am quite pleased with the results.


"http://vimeo.com/5559882"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 13, 2009, 12:19:21 am
Philo, i don't care whether you're a 'surfer as well', good for you.
what i find annoying is that you  are telling people to look at areas where perhaps they wouldn't.

why is it that people need to be told where to surf nowdays????
if people like you want to tell people where the waves are, before you know it, all surf spots will be like the frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales.


give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 13, 2009, 02:00:09 am
i was merely adding upon other comments from people looking it up and giving feedback,
oh and its hardly an unknown spot never mind the vagueness of my general area of north-eastwards comment. theres more than just one person in the world
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 13, 2009, 04:02:06 pm
Quote
frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales
::)
I love the idea of a break being self centred...... 'I am Croyde, I am the finest beach break in all the land, my peaks are so shapely, my barrels so open, I am the greatest, how dare you question my superiority!'
Fact is there are quiet waves to be had in South Wales and the South West.
You just need to look at a map, get off the beaten track, check the charts and work it out for yourself OF :P  But i'm not gonna tell you where they are.  I smite thee back!
Quote
give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.


Here's a different take.......  share knowledge and information with people you know trust and respect, call people into waves and smile when you go surf, accept that folks surf on all kinds of crafts including kayaks/goat boats and some are bluddy good at it, accept that everyone has to start somewhere and that you were once the kook that you now ridicule, generosity towards someone coming to your local area will be rewarded with generosity when you visit their yard, whoop at people who get good waves, somewhere down the line surfing lost it's 'mojo' with some people, for them it's time to find the stoke again, bring back the love.  :kiss2:

Or we could turn this thread into a competition to see who is the most 'core' surfer and continue in this negative vein.

Went to Cornwall this weekend with a friend and met up with some guys we met up here looking for shelter during big swells a couple of years ago.  We surfed a right hand point in a cove that they introduced us to, just the 4 of us in, need I say more. 8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 14, 2009, 01:43:11 pm
being a hard core shredder,
i'm gonna share the love.
check out the J Bay comp, it's off its tits.
http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay09/live.php (http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay09/live.php)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on July 17, 2009, 07:42:24 am
As a relative newcomer to surfing I have to admit that I really don't get localism. The only sensible reason I can think of for it is that spots only work at certain times and under certain conditions and that good waves at these places are therefore limited. Kinda like people crowding to try Brad Pitt on a freezing day in the winter. To claim you have some greater right to surf a beach than anyone else, to me, seems ludicrous.

Have heard some say that because they chose to live near their favourite break they have more right to surf there. Well, I chose to live 10mins drive from Stanage, as do millions of others, and I'm pretty sure if I tried to have  go at some Londoner for being their I'd quite rightly be told where to go.

As for respect. Of course. But I think respect cuts two ways. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2009, 08:33:46 am
I can kind of see where it comes from. Guys who lie near a cetain break and surf it day in and day out could get understandably annoyed when it becomes overrun on good days and there is an invasion from far and wide. However, I think it all originates from the counter culture days of surfing in the 60s and 70s when surfing was originally perceived as an outsiders sport, but was then invaded by the mainstream. I think a lot of localism in the UK is from people who like to try and portray the image of being the "hard" local hotshot and fanning their egos.

One way or another it really sucks and I find the whole thing a bit of an embarrassment to the sport.

Have you sorted out your board dilemma gruff?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 17, 2009, 11:08:33 am
OK let's try and put a few things to bed.

There is localism in surfing.  "You can't surf here, get the f*ck out of the water, go home". BAD, fact, period.  No one likes that stuff, there's no room for it in the sport or the culture.  We see very little of it in the UK thankfully and on the rare occaisions it does happen it's usually just ego stroking and can just be ignored.

Then there's fustration in the water or behaviour that's frowned upon that isn't as obvious.  This does need acknowledging and exploring a little because what sometimes gets interpreted as 'localism' is actually a genuine and legitimate reaction to an infraction of some of the unwritten and not-so-obvious rules of surfing.  As illustration....

Getting in the way - Paddling out to a peak and sitting on the inside in front of the take off or further down the line.  This happens to everyone of course but there are repeat offenders.

Pulling out of a takeoff on a wave that's well makeable - A relative beginner paddles for a wave who's got priority and just doesn't go, usually happens on slightly bigger days when commitment is needed.  If you are paddling, go for it and don't pull back as soon as it looks scary.

Paddling to the peak out of turn - Another common mistake, especially made by the newly competent surfer who's mastered the art of catching most waves and turning.  Catch a wave, ride it well, all flushed with excitement and paddle enthusiastically straight out to the peak for the next one. Whoops.  Should've have sat on the inside a while and let the others in the pack take their waves.  Climbers who have turned to surfing are notorious for this behaviour I think because of an ingrained tick mentality.  We have a bad rep in North Wales because of this...

These are all the equivalent of not cleaning boots, big tick marks, trying stuff that's way too hard, top roping hard sport routes on a tight rope and saying 'I did all the moves on x', dabs, standing on the matts close to the wall, using feet on a campus board.  All the stuff we laugh about on here and sometimes turn away sn**gering about at the crag.  That we then read about on the web when 'punters' talk about their visit to Malham, The Tor or the Plantation and say 'there were some locals who weren't very friendly'.

I've just re-read some of what I wrote and I probably sound like a right twat but I've sat in the water in North Wales, Yorkshire, Scotland, Indo, Spain and the Canaries with climbers turned surfers who have managed to rub people up without realising - me included when I first started out. 

 :)




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 17, 2009, 11:27:57 am
Oh and Oldfella is actually very nice... he's just a wind up merchant.

And in spite of what I wrote above, I'm very friendly and supportive in the water and out (I think)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 17, 2009, 11:45:06 am
Quote
Was down your favourite bouldering spot a month or two ago (it was actually working this time!) and met one of the friendliest locals I've ever come across. More or less bullied us into the water with his enthusiasm and was whoopin at all and sundry. A bit of an uplift after some of the neoprene clad stoneface warriors at Croyde.
This could only be one person ... and he is normally very high spirited as you met him...  However, once upon a time he was having a bad time of it in his personal life and getting repeatedly snaked on the rights.. Let's just say the otherside of his personality came out, quite a shock for us all but looks like normal service has resumed.  Glad to hear it.
As for Croyde, it is and probably will always be a VERY 'competative' break, on good days there will be a sense of aggression in the air.  Frowning faces and people paddling around you to get into position on a wave are common place.  It can be like surfing in a competition without the judges on the beach!  For the timid or inexperienced this is not a good place to surf, particularly around low-tide.  I cut my teeth at Croyde and made all the mistakes you could possibly make to upset the locals. From fading (pulling out of wave I had priority for), to dropping in, to being in the way on the inside.  Words were had, I felt daft and nervous.  But as FD says this shouldn't be mistaken for localism.  Generally, if you get shouted at in Croyde you have probably made a boo boo.  I've never seen anyone called out the water for being a non-local.  However, if you're a regular face at the beach and the other regulars know you are competent, friendlyness and respect will begin to come your way.  Which is probably the case at many a beach in the UK.  A smile and a hello goes a long way, whether it be at a surf break or a crag.  Have to agree that anyone stating a claim to a particular break because they surf there a lot or live near it is absolutely ludicrous and the domain of a small minority of numb cowardly minds.
I'm sure Oldfella's all fluffy and cuddles in reality.  Now get off MY peak!  :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2009, 12:25:34 pm
As an aside, this guy is fucking hilarious and should have a column in one of the mags. Some great writing.

http://asl-insidethegoldmine.blogspot.com/ (http://asl-insidethegoldmine.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on July 17, 2009, 12:45:25 pm
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss   .......... Scarborough..  and Whitby Bay  Thanks a bunch FD... :P
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious: 
Suppose you think you're  funny:lol:


well done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.


 :wave:

what happened to initative, grab some fuel and a map and find your waves. the north east isn't like the the west coast of OZ...........
Philo, i don't care whether you're a 'surfer as well', good for you.
what i find annoying is that you  are telling people to look at areas where perhaps they wouldn't.

why is it that people need to be told where to surf nowdays????
if people like you want to tell people where the waves are, before you know it, all surf spots will be like the frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales.


give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.



Oldfella you're being a bit daft - this island of ours that we all live on is so pissy little that a quick look at a surf guide and a chart can get you to most parts (bar the far north) for a weekend or long weekend (and even there if you a psycho).  Philo was hardly letting the cat out of the bag there....charts show a fuck off big swell coming from the north east followed by a suggestion to surf on the north east.  Not rocket science....and people who live away from the coast are bound to travel to breaks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 17, 2009, 12:52:56 pm
As a relative newcomer to surfing I have to admit that I really don't get localism. The only sensible reason I can think of for it is that spots only work at certain times and under certain conditions and that good waves at these places are therefore limited. Kinda like people crowding to try Brad Pitt on a freezing day in the winter. To claim you have some greater right to surf a beach than anyone else, to me, seems ludicrous.

you kind of the the nail on the head there Baron,
the way i can explain it is;
Imagine  you had been training like  madman and waiting for perfect conditions to try and red point a project at Malham.
then after after 3 weeks of rain and endless endless training, a perfect cool dry couple of days come. you get in your car, do your warm up routes then head over to your line, only to see a whole heap of people abseiling down the wall with their big grubby boots!! And they are set to do it all day.

now for some spots, especially in the UK, they are very very fickle and only work once in a while.
Imagine if that wave was really challenging for you  or just the only decent wave nearby and those magic conditions arrived. When you get to the break, it is full of surfers from 'out of town'. you paddle out, can't get a wave for the crowd.
you're going to be mighty diasspointed...

that is why people are passionate about keeping breaks secret.
i'm no surf nazi or some heavy handed local, but i wish people would stop hand feeding information to those who can't be bothered to learn and seek the breaks themselves.
waves are a limited source, and they are not all the same. you may only get 3 decent waves per hour, now if you add a heap of people out, it reduces the odds of surfing even more.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 17, 2009, 02:22:44 pm
Quote
well done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.

CLM.........The Granticus ain't no tourist  8)

For the record FD didn't spill the beans on anything that isn't in a UK surf guidebook and good on him for not doing so..  A lot of the breaks in the NE are mentioned in the guides, add to this various features in various surfing magazines and the fact that I know a lot of people who surf and who have surfed all over this fair isle..... I have a pretty good idea of where to go to find the delectable left hand barrelling slab or point or beachie in whatever part of the country I'm in.  Quick look at a swell chart, a chat with some friends and hey presto I've found a wave!  As it goes I went West because the charts were looking better that way last weekend and scored some good waves.

I reckon that if you're are maintaining the attitude that folks shouldn't travel and surf 'your' favourite spots that you should immediately give up the idea of surfing anywhere else.  A bit like the idea that ...if you join the BNP, you should immediately destroy your passport. :)

Now if I were to come to the NE to surf the places I seek, I can promise, with confidence in my abiliity, that .. I will show the appropriate level of regard and respect, I won't come with a crowd, I will be catching waves, I won't be snaking and I won't be dropping in.  I would also argue that those with the ability will manage to catch waves regardless of the crowd factor by taking off deeper, being fitter, being faster and getting instant respect for shredding up the first wave they catch.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 17, 2009, 02:37:18 pm

I reckon that if you're are maintaining the attitude that folks shouldn't travel and surf 'your' favourite spots that you should immediately give up the idea of surfing anywhere else.  A bit like the idea that ...if you join the BNP, you should immediately destroy your passport. :)



i am not taking that attitude,
The big rush and joy of surfing is the travel and surfing new waves.
It is just the manner in which you go about it is what I wanted to highlight.

what started off as a bit of tongue in cheek stuff has soon escalated into  :furious:



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 17, 2009, 02:56:27 pm
You started it  ;D  :kiss2:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 18, 2009, 12:08:42 pm
FD I'm just getting shirty because you puntered me and I was almost at a perfect 10  :ang:

FD someone did say you're a wind up merchant, how do you plead?


Anyhoooo..........I'm off to Kernow for a week, charts aren't looking to promising at the mo mind...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 18, 2009, 12:21:05 pm
I don't think I puntered anyone did I?   :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on July 18, 2009, 11:08:31 pm
I don't think I puntered anyone did I?   :shrug:

No it was the aussie what done it. granticus just seems to have 'FD' 'pon him mind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2009, 10:27:42 am
Cool, looks the biz.

Just had mellow logging session before work. Mostly weak windswell, but was offshore for a while and worked on an OK sandbar for a bit before it dropped off and wind changed. Weather too nice to stress too much about wave quality though; gorgeous morning after torrential rain last night. And not much chance of any localism, being the only person in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2009, 03:06:36 pm
http://www.thisiswesternmorningnews.co.uk/news/MINISTRY-SAYS-SURF-BOARDS-SHIPS/article-1184410-detail/article.html (http://www.thisiswesternmorningnews.co.uk/news/MINISTRY-SAYS-SURF-BOARDS-SHIPS/article-1184410-detail/article.html)

Plain daft.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on July 22, 2009, 06:22:18 pm
Jet skis yes, windsurfers - possibly.  anyhthing man powered - cant be - where would you stop?  Armbands?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2009, 07:37:29 pm
Bodyboards? Kiteboards?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 22, 2009, 09:25:58 pm
swimming?  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2009, 08:13:37 am
only if you have armbands on, or a swimming tube.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on July 28, 2009, 08:24:18 am
Surfwise (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0479547/) doc repeated tonight on More4 at 10pm. Well worth a watch/record if you haven't seen it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 28, 2009, 09:21:21 am
The Doc doc. Missed it last time, will catch tonight. Cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 28, 2009, 05:47:50 pm
Quote
I don't think I puntered anyone did I?
FD I didn't punter you, my mind was in a muddle....  Twas the Aussie wind up merchant I was referring to...

Back thoroughly chilled from a lurvely week in rainy and surfless Kernow, returned to ND Sunday arvo to coincide with some pumping swell, which looks set to stick with us for a while at least.  Who knows it might quit raining sometime soon as well... :)

Quote
Surfwise doc repeated tonight on More4 at 10pm. Well worth a watch/record if you haven't seen it.
Was Doc Paskowitz the guy that was taking surfboards over the border into Palestine from Isreal to give to the young people there?  Seem to remember reading about it somewhere (Surfer's Path?), was pretty cool gesture/action anyway because there was no way these kids were ever gonna get their hands on a board anyother way and they were stoked to use them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on July 30, 2009, 06:19:32 pm
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

WOW  :bow:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 30, 2009, 06:22:04 pm
Bit off topic, but am going to put my board on ebay. Was after a rough price off what its worth.
6'11 Spider Murphy thruster, very good nick. I have lost touch with surf board prices now!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on July 30, 2009, 06:49:39 pm
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

WOW  :bow:

Those rips are terrifying - at least they dont go too far out.

Adam...50?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 30, 2009, 07:37:35 pm
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

WOW  :bow:

Great Wedge pics....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 30, 2009, 07:45:43 pm
Reminds me of a great little story after surfing Huntington Pier and Newport a few years ago. I got out of the water as it got dark all psyched having surfed the Pier, the iconic South Californian break after years of seeing photo's in the mags and was changing by the car when my phone beeped.  It was a text from Gav Ellis who'd just surfed Hossegor for the first time, at 5:30am the following morning with the time difference and he didn't know I was in California.  So I texted him back saying 'Cool... I've just got out of the water too at Huntington Pier, California...". Felt great swapping stories from the across the ocean.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 30, 2009, 09:16:07 pm
Quote
Adam...50?

Really, wow!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 30, 2009, 11:25:40 pm
to be honest Adam, selling boards isn't worth the hassle unless you really line up a sucker who hasn't got a clue about prices.

or if you are absolutely desperate and will take anything.

hang on to them, because one day you'll look back and wonder how you ever rode those things back then  :-\

i have a few boards from the early 80's. the term Barge springs to mind.

good luck, every day there is a sucker born
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 31, 2009, 08:45:04 am
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

The period on those waves is amazing. If you like the overhead camera shots, check out the young guns DVDs.

Fultonius, you showing an interest in your injured state? Got a spare board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 05, 2009, 04:08:38 pm
Quote
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/

WOW 
Indeed!  Boomer of a swell... Amazing shots...  Particularly the dolphin enjoying the surf.

The Wedge just looks evil..  Unfortunately a bodyboarder died after hitting the rocks here on this day. :'(

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 06, 2009, 01:49:03 pm
We all know and love the DFBWGC thread, well here is a DFBWGS

(http://alanablanchard.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/image4.jpg)

Just google pictures of Alana Blanchard, outrageous, and on the world tour. Respect...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 06, 2009, 02:02:34 pm
The world of surfing has an unending supply of DFB's... one should refrain from posting too many for fear of washing away our own climbing thread in a deluge of bikini clad uber-fanny.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on August 12, 2009, 08:38:30 pm
lookin for some surfin beta here guys..

I'm gonna be on the coast at or near to scarbrough from this weekend for a week.. I've got 2 lads and a wife damn keen to try to surf... I'll be googling it all of course to get some info / book em a few lessons etc..

I'd be grateful for any locations / surf schools / beaches or general advice.

I've heard that there may be a suitable venue just north up the coast???

cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 12, 2009, 09:16:26 pm
Cayton Bay just south of Scarborough has board hire, showers and a cafe all above the beach so there's no messing around driving with boards on the roof.  That should see you right
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2009, 08:18:31 am
Currently looks like earlier in week will be better than later, so don't put it off. Never pass up the opportunity for water time!

Theres a low currently forecast to pass over on the weekend, then hanging about a bit, but forecasts seem to differ on how long.

http://magicseaweed.com/Scarborough-Surf-Report/22/detailedLongRange/uk/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Scarborough-Surf-Report/22/detailedLongRange/uk/) Has links on right of page.

We will hopefully be surfing the same swell.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on August 13, 2009, 09:00:36 am
cheers guys, I'll get cracking!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 13, 2009, 09:03:49 am
http://www.scarboroughsurfschool.co.uk/ (http://www.scarboroughsurfschool.co.uk/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 24, 2009, 10:16:15 am
Any joy with the surf fatdoc?

Had a good session thursday evening, noce southerly swell, and weather ran the full range from torrential rain, wind, bright sunshine, and finished up with double rainbow. Brazilian mate was in water (thanks to FD's spare wettie), first time surfing in N Hemishere and first time in a wetsuit. He was made up, first tiemin water for 4 months. Also had a bit of a southerly windswell this morning, got in for an hour and a bit before work. Shifty peaks and erattic swell, but managed half a dozen good rides. Roll on autumn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 26, 2009, 07:16:07 pm
Cooking!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 05, 2009, 10:39:37 am
Surfed Puttsburough.... tidy barrels at 3ft... clean! moving to Croyde!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 09, 2009, 11:48:00 pm
Idol moving to Croyde.... Share the wealth!  It's one seriously expensive village.

So how much did they fleece you for in the Putts car park for those cheeky little barrels, apparently they broke the 7 barrier this summer which is probably tollerable if your on your hols and are staying the whole day but if you're getting an hour or 2 in before works it sucks.. :thumbsdown:

Had a 'dawnie' down there today with just two of us in, absolutely splendid after a typical summer of crowded mayhem.  Stoked! Roll on winter!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 10, 2009, 02:24:12 pm
Idol moving to Croyde.... Share the wealth! 

The irony!

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=2410 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=2410)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 11, 2009, 07:07:40 pm
New JOB! (ironic II).... leads me out of Kernow, got mates around there.... winter lets are cheaper!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 14, 2009, 09:04:32 am
Quote
New JOB! (ironic II).... leads me out of Kernow, got mates around there.... winter lets are cheaper

Ah! Winter lets!  If you are prepared to live away from 'the bubble' (Croyde), it'll be cheaper still... 

See you out there, if there is ever any surf :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on September 14, 2009, 04:22:21 pm
winter lets are cheaper!!!

I can see what's going to happen...

Landlord "where's the rent for the last 2 months?"

Idle "tell you what, I'll give you a load of this expensive gear that I umm.. get from my... er sponsor. It's worth 3 times what I owe you."

Landlord "I'd rather have the cash"

Idle "No, you misunderstand. I need that gear for my photo shoots. I'm merely offering to let you use it until I.. um.. buy it back off you. I'll be paying you what I owe you in cash and you get to use the stuff as like a deposit"

Landlord "well..."

Idle "look at this jacket, and these, and this, and this..."

Landlord "it is all very nice..."

Idle "you take it all if you like it"

Landlord "all of it! Really? Nice"

Idle "that's settled then"

Landlord "yeah"

Idle "its just that... well that stuff is worth far more than what I owe you so far.."

Landlord "yes, clearly"

Idle "well how about I definitely buy it back on the the 20th of next month and you let me have the cash for next months rent now, just to make it all fair"

Landlord "? ? ? ? ?"

Idle "you can have these pills and a bag of this to help you decide"

Landlord "wibble blurt.. yeah man, cool. What do I owe you?"

Next month...

Barmaid "alright there Landlord? You look smart in that jacket"

Landlord "cheers!"

Dude at bar "hey that looks just like the jacket and pants I loaned to the chap who is renting your cottage. I've been looking all over for him!"

All "Idle!!!!"

*queue Benny Hill music*
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on September 14, 2009, 04:23:41 pm
This Croyde place. It's pretty small right?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2009, 07:27:34 pm
Ha Ha, Yeah! Quaint I would say... and suits the Benny Hill music, you should come down... and get lost!!!
You missed out the bit where the LANDLADY!!! tries to get it on with me behind the back of her builder boyfriend ( of are you the one who was seeing the mind doctors!!!) and gets rejected...
Women!!!! the start and end off all lifes problems.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 15, 2009, 07:59:28 pm
Has anyone heard of Miki Dora!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 15, 2009, 08:09:00 pm
Errr yes. Why do you ask?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2009, 08:01:31 am
Has any surfer not heard of Miki Dora?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 16, 2009, 09:38:14 am
OK... has any one read All for a few perfect waves?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2009, 09:49:53 am
Yes, it's OK, mildly interesting but not very well put together, and a bit over long.

Want to see the new Bustin' down the Door film but not showing locally.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 18, 2009, 04:30:46 pm
In search of Micheal Petersen!!!! Well worth the view!
Scored Llandegeth (Gower).... Really good!
Miki Dora... Totall Scammer... The people that I have met that know him admit,,, He was not even really that good a surfer, just one in a million character!
The above effort at character assassination reminded me of some of the stuff he did!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2009, 12:48:33 pm
Is October the new September?? Might just be.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 30, 2009, 05:48:41 pm
I've always had the best waves throughout the UK in October.

Grim news from Sumatra today.. the epicenter would be right near the Mentawis and we have friends in Padang from our trips out there  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2009, 10:30:33 pm
September is usually good, but this one has been poor.

Heard from a friend that someone local here is over there too, not your mates from here FD?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 01, 2009, 11:19:28 am
Is October the new September?
Yeah it's been a pretty poor September and unfortunately it's not looking like it'll be a great winter season this year.  Despite all early season excitement about hurricane swells, forecasters are predicting a less active hurricane season this year which as we all know means that the weather systems that give us swell aren't gonna be as regular.  Suffice to say that we WILL (he said in hope) get some good surf it's just not gone be week after week of pumping swells.  Had a lovely but short lived swell in the SW last week shoulder high and clean for 2 days then gone...  Still lack of swell, warm water and warm weather is creating ideal DWS conditions. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2009, 11:26:15 am
Glad it's warm where you are, was baltic suiting up this morning, bitter NW wind blowing. Was OK when sun appeared, got a couple of good waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 01, 2009, 06:20:37 pm
September is usually good, but this one has been poor.

Heard from a friend that someone local here is over there too, not your mates from here FD?

No not Paul and Sarah.. I was thinking of the crew, guides and their families who live in Padang and out on the islands.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2009, 08:36:09 pm
Ah Ok, yes tragedy regardless. Saw Paul and Sarah this evening, actually had a great longboard session, with thruster fin setup on longboard. May not be traditional, but in small swell you can get a great glide on. Sadly dark before arms gave out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 04, 2009, 02:13:29 pm
I NEED A FUCKIN WAVE!!!! (yesterday was ok!!!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2009, 08:33:13 pm
5 sessions in 4 days, head east!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2009, 11:11:03 am
And another one this morning, but I sucked as arms were in tatters.

Couple of pics from yesterday morning, not the best in the world, but probably the only ones I have of me surfing. Like the trawler in the background, gives a bit of context.

(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab54/rowiebee/chris%20pics/DNW_4077.jpg?t=1254736815)

(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab54/rowiebee/chris%20pics/DNW_4079.jpg?t=1254737421)

Not quite Indo boat trip with rock star, but pretty good for east coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 05, 2009, 12:09:37 pm
Nice, looks chilly!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2009, 01:01:06 pm
Cold westerly blowing, and 9 am. Got in at about 4 again, no hood needed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 05, 2009, 04:17:11 pm
Surfer wins big wave contest (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/7347976.stm#id7340000/7347900/7347976)
Nice exit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 05, 2009, 11:12:28 pm
That was sooooo close to being really nasty.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 05, 2009, 11:13:50 pm
Great pics Chris.. it's so hard to get photo's when surfing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2009, 08:20:21 am
Yeah, have very few of me. Dave Smith did a great job seeing it was his first go at it, and light is always tricky on East Coast in the morning, esp. as they were mostly rights.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 06, 2009, 10:30:35 pm
TSJ | POV - "Richard Kenvin behind the polyester curtain" (http://vimeo.com/5424668)

Bob Simmons taught Chouinard how to surf... cut down the first plank into a shortboard to get out of the pocket and 'make clean lines on the wave' which inspired Chouinard to ditch the peg hammer and start clean aiding in The Valley...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 12, 2009, 12:07:23 pm
Boom! managed to score N Cornwall... Scarborough... and Llangeneth all in the last four daze!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on October 12, 2009, 12:45:54 pm
that dorian ride is sic.
fighting the foam ball of that size and forced to lay bac instead of the standard pig dog.  so much going on for him to deal with. much more than the typical tow in ride down a mountain with a few 'chop hops' laong the way.

technically, it is absolutley mindblowing, when you add that to the context of the wave, the live coral slab half a metre below.  one of the best waves i have ever seen ridden.

i saw Falling Down do this on a wave one day on the east coast, well the last 3 secs of the video..
always a good laugh when its one of your mates betting drilled...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 12, 2009, 07:55:30 pm
technically, it is absolutley mindblowing, when you add that to the context of the wave, the live coral slab half a metre below.  one of the best waves i have ever seen ridden.

 :agree:  it's mindblowing....

Thanks for the comparison to Dorian..  :lol: the difference was that he had finished riding an incredible wave and I just blew the takeoff on an average one.  Was that on that really nasty cold day at sheepbaah with Gav and Jerry a couple of years ago? When we went to Cayton later and had to scale the sea wall at Cayton to escape the tide... top day that was. I think there's a post about it earlier in the thread.

Just got a brand new Excel 5/4/3 hooded drylock for the winter waiting to pick it up from Abersoch when I get back from Kazakhstan.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2009, 09:06:35 pm
i've got an O zip 5/4/3 that is soo warm. Wear it with one of the XCEL polypro hooded rashies in winter. Really toasty, but the zip gets stuck up a bit -have to ask passerby to lend a hand.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on October 12, 2009, 09:42:03 pm
i'm looking at buying a new pair of board shorts, just to stay cool in the water  :whistle:

FD,
yes it was that day. i can also remember another one, but details are too vague. i think it was one one of the points where you have to contiully paddle up the point. you too some photos that day

have a safe trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2009, 10:17:04 pm
Gower again.... Great!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2009, 08:23:20 am
Llangenith? The mother of all paddle outs!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 18, 2009, 01:52:55 pm
Got my first taste of aggro in the water yesterday from some rather serious south bay 'Locals'. They were very good surfers but snaked everything and were quite happily mowing people down. Apparently that's ok because they live there. After I politely remonstrated with them much hilarity ensued, and once I got over my disbelief that grown men could actually gang up and behave like playground bullies it was quite funny. They didn't like it when I just laughed back at them. If you ever fancy a days cragging lads just let me know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 18, 2009, 04:22:31 pm
 :bounce:  ooo  oooo  ooooh...  swell charts are looking insane for all Atlantic facing coasts this Wednesday, super long period, sizeable and with offshores predicted...  Lined up a pre-work early morning at a special little left hand reef break that the tides and swell are perfect for.  Hope peeps score some epic sessions..

Probably not the greatest prep for a week in Font but tis an opportunity not to be missed..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 18, 2009, 06:35:22 pm
Got my first taste of aggro in the water yesterday from some rather serious south bay 'Locals'. They were very good surfers but snaked everything and were quite happily mowing people down. Apparently that's ok because they live there. After I politely remonstrated with them much hilarity ensued, and once I got over my disbelief that grown men could actually gang up and behave like playground bullies it was quite funny. They didn't like it when I just laughed back at them.

See my very first post of this thread. You get dicks everywhere.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2009, 09:35:28 am
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 22, 2009, 03:09:31 pm
Chris...    :great:

Big, mean and clean on Atlantic coasts yesterday.  Sheltered spots fired up too, but not all-time. Seemed like every man and his dog was onto it on Wednesday mind...

  Swell set to continue into next week but with a lot of W in the wind over weekend, then lots of S in the wind early next week.  So should be good for sheltered spots again.

Had a fun session early this morning, clean and not so big n mean.  Off to Font for a week tomor, so don't give a munkees! ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 24, 2009, 03:32:09 pm
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
better than the shithole you surf in!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2009, 04:08:56 pm
Forecast was looking good, so I asked how it was?

Agree Aberdeen is shit compared to the SW, but give me deserted Banff, Philorth or Sandend over the busier breaks of the SW any day.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 26, 2009, 10:22:22 am
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
better than the shithole you surf in!

Uncalled for.... :spank:

I'd like to see out at Nigg when it's six foot in February.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 26, 2009, 10:24:05 am
Really good footage of Gerlach showing balls in the Ments..

Gerlach killing Kandui (http://magicseaweed.com/Gerr-at-Epic-Kandui-Content/1966/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 26, 2009, 12:43:53 pm
Sorry, just thought I was telling the truth... and not an Idle Lie....
(Twas a jest by the way... SA!)
Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 26, 2009, 03:51:59 pm
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
better than the shithole you surf in!

Uncalled for.... :spank:
Was it?

I'd like to see out at Nigg when it's six foot in February.
Me Too!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 26, 2009, 04:38:52 pm
Really good footage of Gerlach showing balls in the Ments..

Gerlach killing Kandui (http://magicseaweed.com/Gerr-at-Epic-Kandui-Content/1966/)

Doesn't even look like he's trying.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2009, 08:10:31 am
"The Shithole" on Sunday afternoon, when it had dropped from morning.

(http://www.darryljames.plus.com/Surfing_Images/BT1.jpg)

(http://www.darryljames.plus.com/Surfing_Images/BT4.jpg)

Pics of my mate Darryl taken by Sarah Dixon (Jerry's snapper!).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 27, 2009, 09:35:58 am
Nice piccies...

Off to Abersoch for the next two weekends if anyone is around the Lleyn.   Plenty of waves forecast for this coming weekend..  should be reet good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 27, 2009, 10:22:22 am
Parents have let the house til easter  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 27, 2009, 04:26:48 pm
Off down to Devon and Cornwall tonight till Sunday to re-light my surfing. Not been out since Australia, so expecting to get a pounding! Looking like some good swell for all of it and some nice weather.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 28, 2009, 09:49:30 am
Mundaka turns on the juice  (http://www.surfline.com/video/featured-clips/mundaka-on-fire-oct-21-09_31583) with lots of impressive barrel riding...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 12:05:28 pm
Fistral at four foot fired this morning!!!! perfect.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 29, 2009, 07:16:48 pm
Just had north devon last few days at 3 to 4. Off to fistral in the morning.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 07:27:12 pm
you around at the weekend A.L.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 29, 2009, 08:19:12 pm
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on October 29, 2009, 08:29:45 pm
Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!
take a pair of shoes , chalk and a bouldering pad.
there are some amazing caves on the right side of the road opposite the Draculas reef. just before boilers. you can't miss them.
i did a few problems there. but didn't have the 'proper grips and rock boots".

there is potential for some great looking routes as well. take a drill.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 11:32:57 pm
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.
Cool, Tag On... Party week end central. meet at on the rocks bar around nine friday ! doss at mine but poss no sleep!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 11:40:56 pm
Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!
take a pair of shoes , chalk and a bouldering pad.
there are some amazing caves on the right side of the road opposite the Draculas reef. just before boilers. you can't miss them.
i did a few problems there. but didn't have the 'proper grips and rock boots".

there is potential for some great looking routes as well. take a drill.
Got a feeling its going to be well Benidorm, The whole of Costa del Quay is going, My birthday party is 1st of the 12th, Ag a dir dir dir shake my mind up make a tree, Ag a dir dir dir ,doa do da memory... or something!
OK... Boots only, Lakes crew will like this!
Werte is Draculars?
Esouannes is the tip if we need not the gun vibe at Anchors? got any other suggestions!!!
Taking a 9.o   A 9.4   and a 9.6
plus gun 7.4?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: grimer on October 30, 2009, 01:30:14 am
hello pat  :hug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 30, 2009, 05:50:37 pm
Watcha G, future chairman of the BMC!
sorry, well pissed last night... been trying to erase loads of messges, like my last post.
Can you still not swim Mr G?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: grimer on October 30, 2009, 06:08:27 pm
No, it's not possible that i swim.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 30, 2009, 06:25:16 pm
Oh dear!!!
you dont need to swim to surf!!!! I kinda got better at swiming by surfing! Suffering from singing... live next door to a church, Choir practice... Its like fucking Jingle bells every Friday!
How are you? comming down South West any time?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 30, 2009, 06:35:45 pm
Nice mellow 3 foot at fistral today clean as anything. I miss surfing!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 30, 2009, 06:51:03 pm
Raaaah! missed it coz of work!!! Watergate was ON! by all accounts... wind swings South W 2moro....
Boo!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2009, 08:28:40 pm
I miss surfing!

Shit, what's been stopping you then?

looks like we will get skunked by shitty winds all weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on October 31, 2009, 08:32:26 pm
For some reason the ABC over here have this little piece on their website at the moment. Big wave stuff filmed at Shipsterne and a few other places: enjoy!
http://www.abc.net.au/news/video/bestofabc.htm?file=http://mpegmedia.abc.net.au/homepage/video/news_bigwaves_edit.flv (http://www.abc.net.au/news/video/bestofabc.htm?file=http://mpegmedia.abc.net.au/homepage/video/news_bigwaves_edit.flv)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 31, 2009, 09:13:39 pm
For some reason the ABC over here have this little piece on their website at the moment.

I think that they are all from the 2009 Billabong XXL awards.

That step at Shipstern seems to trip a few of them up, and full marks to the guy at Dungeons for paddling in and taking the full drop.

Actually had a good day today - two good sessions at the "shithole"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 31, 2009, 09:59:48 pm
Nothing doing here in North Wales today. Small swell and lots of wind.. went for a long run instead. Up early tomorrow and hopefully in at first light.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2009, 03:54:47 pm
NNFN.

Unfair that there are waves like this on a Monday morning in Aberdeen

http://argus-data.wldelft.nl/sites/aberdeen/2009/c2/306_Nov.02/1257159602.Mon.Nov.02_11_00_02.UTC.2009.aberdeen.c2.snap.jpg (http://argus-data.wldelft.nl/sites/aberdeen/2009/c2/306_Nov.02/1257159602.Mon.Nov.02_11_00_02.UTC.2009.aberdeen.c2.snap.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 02, 2009, 05:10:29 pm
These words I am eating taste like shit!!!!
That is the shit!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 02, 2009, 05:16:30 pm
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.
Cool, Tag On... Party week end central. meet at on the rocks bar around nine friday ! doss at mine but poss no sleep!

Just seen this. Only went out in Newquay Saturday. Lewinnick first, then Offshore bar then Belushi's. Not a bad night with all the crazy halloween goings on. Do you live in Newquay then? My mate is trying to get into climbing and lives there, could do with pointing in the right direction.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 02, 2009, 07:31:18 pm
New blog post  November Surf (http://benssimpleblog.wordpress.com/2009/11/02/november-surf/)

Apologies for typos due to iPhone Wordpress interface and any self-indulgence due to my self delusions of literary grandeur.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 03, 2009, 06:11:28 pm
Arctic Surf Film Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmPp_eRWmaI#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 03, 2009, 11:41:22 pm
Looks a bit chilly on the willy!

Great video though, some fun stuff (from a non-surfer perspective), in particular the long board.

Whats up with the ply-board thing though, looks like it would be very hard to use?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 04, 2009, 12:04:11 am
Great vid JB!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2009, 07:03:10 pm
Whats up with the ply-board thing though, looks like it would be very hard to use?

it's an alaia (or similar, different sized ones have different names). They are traditional boards, and  usually made of Paulowina wood, probably not plywood. Finless, so pretty hard to ride, but look like great fun. Would love to give one a go.

Had some nice waves today, mild, cloudless and not a breath of wind. Nice small clean swell, great for longboarding. Almost pleasant!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 09, 2009, 06:00:47 pm
Langland Bay!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on November 10, 2009, 09:59:22 am
Werte is Draculars?
Esouannes is the tip if we need not the gun vibe at Anchors? got any other suggestions!!!
Taking a 9.o   A 9.4   and a 9.6
plus gun 7.4?
Draculas is well past anchors going to Boilers. storm rider euro has details.
you will not need a gun for any of the points.
just your standard board wil suffice. looking at those measurements, i assume they are longboards.
ride a short board 6' 1 and only needed my 6'6 once when it was double overhead. you do need massive swells for Anchor point, Mystos to work.

if they are on, it will be rammed. and you will be able to find more waves else where along the coast. if you aren't up for the bigger stuff, there are sheltered beaches and coves along the voast road.

i enjoyed surfing bananna beach and panoramas. banana beach is just north outside of Agadir. you'll see a village elling bananas, simple ehh!!!

a big tip, take loads  and loads of coins, beggars and scam artisits well harass you for change. at boilers they even blocked the carpark entry unless you paid!!
ther is also 'insurance' to ensure your car remains intact while your surfing. yjis will cost coins as well.


if you have time go up to Essaouira. no surf, but very beautiful and fantastic fish stalls and  markets.
dress conservativley. ie slacks and shirt. show a bit of respect to the muslim culture and you wont get hasslesd (as much)


finally, bouldering opposite draculas.
you cant miss it. massive caves on the right side of the coast road heading north from Agadir. easy aprking options on side of the road.

if you don't have bouldering pads, fold up your board bags.

enjoy and happy birthday
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 11, 2009, 12:48:14 pm
Thanks....
Can not wait!


 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 11, 2009, 12:49:23 pm
Fistral is firing... four to five ft and real clean!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2009, 04:31:46 pm
Bloke was in Aberdeen the other day with a waterproof camera - mate tracked him down and go onto his Flickr site - even though it's hard to see, he got a nice shot of me

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3509/4060841849_4bc424e180_b.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 12, 2009, 04:39:02 pm
Bloke was in Aberdeen the other day with a waterproof camera - mate tracked him down and go onto his Flickr site - even though it's hard to see, he got a nice shot of me

Anymore?  Would be deady easy to find if you'd backlinked (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Pictures_to_UKBouldering#Backlinking_the_easy_way) to flickr  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2009, 04:45:05 pm
I knew as soon as you posted I had done something wrong. I don't have a flickr account and can't figure out how to backlink without downloading any programmes at work which I am not allowed to do, but here is the guys page, so knock yourself out

http://www.flickr.com/photos/boogieabz (http://www.flickr.com/photos/boogieabz)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 12, 2009, 05:16:13 pm
IT work nazi's suck!!

Some good shots there though, bit chilly for my liking though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2009, 06:01:35 pm
Last sat was so hot I had to take my hood off (occasionally!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on November 16, 2009, 07:06:37 pm
A waist high and clean Port Logan two weeks ago.  Doesn't happen very often...especially when anybody can be arsed to drive there who actually owns a surf board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 16, 2009, 09:43:21 pm
Kite surfers jump over Worthing pier!
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/sussex/8362671.stm (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/sussex/8362671.stm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2009, 10:59:35 pm
Saw that. Holy shit it's some height. Ballsy move
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 17, 2009, 11:26:55 am
It's ballsy alright but don't you think Kite Surfing is really lame?  It's like Inline Skating or something..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 17, 2009, 11:55:24 am
Actually think it looks like good fun, but would never bother - too much multitasking going on, and can't really consider yet another set of toys to eat into my soon to be limited free time. If I lived near the sea somewhere where there was a total lack of waves (even less than Aberdeen) i might take it up.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2009, 09:33:50 am
Looks like the Eddie Aikau Memorial is happening for the forst tome since 2004. And it's going to be big.

http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/eddie/ (http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/eddie/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 08, 2009, 09:46:16 am
Nice one Chris! 40ft sets   :o :o:o

There'll be live streaming on the Quicksilver website once the heats start.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2009, 10:01:34 am
Yup. Keep it minimised.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 08, 2009, 06:42:20 pm
Live web feed from Waimea for the heats here:

The Eddie Aikua memorial from Waimea (http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/bigwave/live.php?btn_live=_over)

Hardly any lag and great quality broadcast with commentary and replays.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 11, 2009, 10:38:08 am
Greg Long wins
report here with amazing pics

http://magicseaweed.com/Long-Wins-Eddie-Content/2120/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Long-Wins-Eddie-Content/2120/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on December 11, 2009, 12:42:57 pm
Pipe was good today as well.
JOB out of the competition. 40 mins  to catch 2 waves  :yawn:
needless to say, he was beaten..
Sunny missed the start of his heat.

handed parko an almost free path to the triple crown. Sunny was not a happy man!!!  >:(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 14, 2009, 02:50:12 pm
Damn... missed it on the I phone apps... got the Vans tripple thingy...
Nice one for the pointers... got a bit of climbing done whilst in Maroc.... just where you said "above Dracs" is pretty good limestone bouldering.
Got some super other areas you may or may not know about?
Heard of Paradise Valley?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 19, 2009, 12:00:13 pm
Hitler's Surf Trip Ruined (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjkv29Y5NhE#)

Bit too obscure to go into the quality non-surfing vids thread, but funny.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on December 19, 2009, 12:50:25 pm
 :lol: Almost as good as the Nikon camera rant!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 19, 2009, 03:49:03 pm
"A 7'6 !! I want to fucking turn you moron..."  :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 21, 2009, 12:48:37 pm
From Shadows (http://vimeo.com/7570431) in Ireland

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/143513.jpg)

 8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2009, 02:38:42 pm
Nice,

Did anyone watch Lives of The Artists last week, I think was on C4, so whould be on their I player or it's on here

http://relentlessenergy.com/ (http://relentlessenergy.com/)

Gallows are definitely not to my taste, but found the interviews quite insightful.

The Mickey Smith and Xavier De la Rue sections are very cool though.

Nice longboard session in Aberdeen yesterday morning - water a lot warmer than air. Getting changed afterwards was challenging, balancing on icy pavement in wet booties.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 28, 2009, 08:10:22 pm
Nice one..  Chris!  http://relentlessenergy.com/ (http://relentlessenergy.com/)

Great film and personally I like a bit of Gallows so I was happy all round... 
Had a NNFN moment today missing out on some Peak bouldering and having to bail to Devon where it's raining! 

However..........  4.5ft at a whomping 18secs with offshores tommorow arvo is some consolation prize.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on January 06, 2010, 07:10:30 pm
more of a sponger myself but good footage of Thurso and No.10 going off with some tow-ins

Thurso (Episode 2) (http://vimeo.com/8178630)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy higginson on January 13, 2010, 12:51:17 pm
Does anyone have any up-to-date knowledge on the state of the roads in North Devon at the moment?   In particular, will it be worth bothering to try to get over to Croyde/ Puts on Saturday (from London), or is it completely hopeless now there's been fresh snow?
Also, if the roads generally are alright, how is the steep road down to Puts? - there doesn't seem to be much/ any snow about on the webcam...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 13, 2010, 09:54:16 pm
Why Puts? I know it's a nice left, but Croyde and Saunton will be OK and it's likely to be pretty quiet at the is time of year. Road as far as Croyde is most likely to be kept clear, not sure about further than that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy higginson on January 13, 2010, 10:50:57 pm
I've had a knee injury for the last year so haven't surfed and still feeling a bit fragile, thought puts might be a bit mellower
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2010, 08:23:28 am
Saunton is a much mellower wave than Puts, which is why it is often packed out with surf schools.

Avoid getting out at low tide at this time of year though, ice block by the time you get to car.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 17, 2010, 12:57:36 pm
Heh Chris and Andy, I know it is few days late but as you are discussing my locals felt I should reply and give the gen for N. Devon.
Roads are all totally clear now.
Puts can be a good wave on it's day..  The advantage is that it is protected from Southerlies (which are funelled offshore) and southwesterlies.  The disadvantage is that swell doesn't get through to here as well as elsewhere so it's always a bit smaller and it often lacks the punch of other beachies (which can be very good if you are starting out or getting back into it).
Saunton is great if you are a logger and/or starting out/getting back into, it is a mellow slow moving wave and as such is perfect for gliding and mastering manaevoures in less critical situations.  However, if the wind is from the S or SW it will be messy, low tide is a long walk!
Croyde again is ruined by S, SWerlies.  At low tide on a reasonable swell it is a HEAVY wave and really NOT SUITABLE if you are starting out or just getting back into surfing.  This wave has broken bones, boards and necks (no joke).  The wave mellows from mid to high tide and is much more forgiving.
At this time of year there are no surf schools out (or lifeguards for that matter) and in the summer ALL the beaches are overrun by surfschools!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 18, 2010, 03:51:21 pm
As Above...
I rate Putts....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 18, 2010, 04:01:35 pm
Agree. Plus you can charge to Baggy and bag a route at low tide, then catch the push once the ledges start getting wet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 18, 2010, 04:08:28 pm
My best surf ever, was tripping out at Croyde on the low @3ft... leashless on a 9.4 single fin, The first time I almost landed a helicopter with out spinning (I.E. cross stepping)....
Bailed the landing coz of a few punters on the inside.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 18, 2010, 11:26:15 pm
My best surf ever, was tripping out at Croyde on the low @3ft... leashless on a 9.4 single fin, The first time I almost landed a helicopter with out spinning (I.E. cross stepping)....
Bailed the landing coz of a few punters on the inside.


Aye! had some of my best waves at Croyde, heaving barrels a plenty on a good day at low-tide but like I say not ideal when you're cutting your teeth.  It jacks up on shallow banks from deep water and BOOOOM, not much time to think about getting to your feet and definitely not a wave the old knees first then to feet take off!

However...my worst ever  :spank: also happened at Croyde @ 5ft+, it was a classic duck dive, reverse back flip, over the falls, sand plant, spin cycle to hold down... Came up gasping for air with severely ruined pride.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on January 20, 2010, 11:07:09 am
 :off: hey guys, a bit random but thought I'd ask anyway. Heading surfing in Morocco (around Taghazoute) mid march and trying to decide what wetsuit to take, I run quite warm and only used to wear a 4/3 in scottish winter so I'm thinking a springy might be best although every where seems to recommend a 3/2. Anyone been there or have any recommendations?
 
Cheers

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 20, 2010, 11:13:02 am
Have a look at a couple of pages back in the thread as Oldfella was dispensing some sage advice on Morocco to Idol Eyes..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on January 20, 2010, 11:25:36 am
cheers for that
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 20, 2010, 11:09:58 pm
 :bounce:  Just booked a hol with mrs granticus to Lanzarote in late March...  Anyone been?  Am I gonna get speared to death by urchins?  I am comfortable riding reefs so should be good, although El Quemao is not high on my list (looks good for lid riders though!)...  Any wisdom welcomed?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 31, 2010, 12:00:42 pm
PM Oldfella... he's been a few times.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 08, 2010, 02:56:54 pm
Smokin....
South coast!
Fistral....
Cribber broke super clean at 10 ft! and looked longboardable???
All breaks have been on for near enough a week and will continue over the next few daze!!! GET IN!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2010, 03:46:17 pm
looked longboardable???

Was Skindog on it agian?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 08, 2010, 08:20:31 pm
Good video of a pretty full-on 'leven on Saturday

Mackin! Porthleven 6th Feb 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkJ9DzRl87U#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2010, 10:49:00 pm
3:06 and 3:50 are waves of the day. Looks awesome, I wouldn't be in there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 09, 2010, 05:36:29 pm
Some big beatings too :spank: :wave:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 09, 2010, 05:52:19 pm
Good vid.... looks like a great day.  Plenty of people on the shoulder but not many takers on the peak  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy higginson on February 09, 2010, 06:02:59 pm
5:25 I think Chris...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 09, 2010, 06:04:14 pm
 :agree: :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 09, 2010, 06:20:47 pm
They do make a lot of noise re leven down in the SW. Whilst it looks fun its hardly classic theres only a few barrels in the whole vid.

The east coast has had at least ten days as good as this since just before christmas, maybe not all as big but proper hollow board snapping conditions with lots and lots of barrels getting ridden.

Still looks good though but too busy for me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on February 17, 2010, 12:28:48 pm
Hey GME,
what all this touting for the NE. obviously your an out of towner telling all dem pasties to venture north.
i'm a hardcore local an don't want any of these southern poofs showing up with with their camera carrying hoes.
taking pictures, waves and our local lassess with their manscaped eyebrows and straightened hair.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on February 17, 2010, 12:38:08 pm
:bounce:  Just booked a hol with mrs granticus to Lanzarote in late March...  Anyone been?  Am I gonna get speared to death by urchins?  I am comfortable riding reefs so should be good, although El Quemao is not high on my list (looks good for lid riders though!)...  Any wisdom welcomed?

Granticius,
in all seriousness , don't drop in on the locals. you will find yourself in a very bad place. especially at breaks like the slab, el quemao and a few of the not so well known good waves.
it is referred to as the north shore of Atlantic. and it is for bothe the waves and the locals attitude.

having said that, la sants point is a cracking right hand point, and is one of the more tolerant waves for visitors.
if you want to surf the slab or el quemao, beleieve me you will want to.
dont park at the break  walk to the break after you park your car on the point.
and ask if it is ok to have a couple of the inside waves.

don't be surprised if you get yelled at and pointed up to la santa to surf.

good luck and have fun
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 17, 2010, 11:42:05 pm
Nice one Oldfella.. Cheers for the gen.  :great:

I'm not in the habbit of dropping in, especially not on locals at their home break... I learnt that 6 years ago ... the hard way at spots that I am now part of the local crew at.  Will try to be respectful...  La Santa looks great so pleased to hear it's a little more tolerant!  Looking forward to shedding some rubber!

Had a good low tide sesh at Croyde this arvo, nothing massive but did manage to sneak out of a nice little bazza which was nice.  A few comedy half term stuntmen were present to experience the shallow nature of low tide  :spank:

In the meantime I am straightening my locks, plucking my eyebrows, gathering the camera biatches and heading your way, GME makes it sound brilliant! With the right kind of media exposure you too could have a zoo like Leven :thumbsup: 

here's some inspiration..  and strangeness
Cypher Vision - A Short Film (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwfjYKjG1MQ#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on February 18, 2010, 02:21:43 am
Granticus,
i forgot to answer the urchin question.
i personaly didn't feel that they were that big a issue, however you may want to take a pair boots .
but beware that the little bastards can still pierce through.
nevertheless,  as you will have your tweezers with you  ;) , it will give a nice 30 mins activity at the end of the day picking the bits of barb out while you sip beer.

in regards to the drop ins, i know that "no-one ever blatantly" drops in, however even the the most accidental of interference may be enough to rile the nerves of nasty young men.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 18, 2010, 09:09:43 am
Oldfella

You must have the wrong preson, i am one of the milton Keynes massive. Our local spots are on the EAST coast out past the wash.
I love pasties and am hopeing to move to newquay next year once i have finished converting my split screen VW.

I went upto the NE coast once but it was too cold the locals were miserable bastards and took offence at me and my 8 mates catching party waves.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 18, 2010, 10:39:03 am
Granticus,
i forgot to answer the urchin question.
i personaly didn't feel that they were that big a issue, however you may want to take a pair boots .
but beware that the little bastards can still pierce through.
nevertheless,  as you will have your tweezers with you  ;) , it will give a nice 30 mins activity at the end of the day picking the bits of barb out while you sip beer.

Can't help with Lanzer, but we went to Feurte for a month, and the urchins are pretty bad. I hate surfing in boots, so i would walk out with the boots on, sit on my board, and throw the boots back. Always one of our party would be on the beach. So when coming back in, we would get them to throw them back. Not ideal, but worked well for us. We still got a few spkies, and as Granticus said, we spent many hours picking them out at night whilst downing our evening beverage!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on February 18, 2010, 11:30:39 am
Fuerta has steroid urchins and the reefs are sharper too.
many locals wore 1 boot and hopped!!!! on the reef.

the better optoin is to wear a bum bag or FANNY pack if you are a seppo. stick your boots in there when you got out the back.

GME,
i think i know who you are
was one of your mates wearing bling, a gold tooth and riding one of those bloody Alleai hawaiian things lording it up in his Porshe??

if i see him up here again i'll get all Fuhrer-esque on him
And how dare he drive a car from the fatherland????
wouldn't surprise me if he waxed his genitals and supported Man City!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 18, 2010, 11:40:13 am
 :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on February 18, 2010, 12:15:50 pm
NO FD,
i'm not refferring to you,
we all know you love the long board and secretly fantasize about having a SUP!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 18, 2010, 12:56:33 pm
RE: Urchins ... I am well versed in urchin spine removal after an encounter in OZ, scraped my bare feet over one and had a nice collection of spines embedded in the top of my foot.  The bigger bit were followed by gushes of blood. Nice!

Gonna take some boots, tweezers, iodine, and wife to watch the car!!

GME Newquay is brilliant you should move there you'd love it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 18, 2010, 02:25:20 pm
Lanza is great, have had many a good trip there and generally get surfing everyday. Your biggest problems are the winds not the locals. morro negro (santa point) gets the prevailing winds cross but gets a bit of shelter. most of the other waves are on shore a lot of the time.

There is an inside reform left at la santa which, whilst being a bag of shite wave, is off shore when everything else is onshore.

You will be dropped in on by the locals and even told to get out of the water so just accept it and chill, eventually they get out. On that point, unlike most other spots getting up early is generally busy, all the locals work so generally piss of about nine so head out then. they also seem to arrive on mass so get out together a crowd of 12 can suddenly be 4, if you want to surf the slab just sit and wait for a shift change, you should be able to grab one or two.

Urchins are bad but not that hard to avoid, biggest tip is to walk on top of the rocks not inbetween them, harder to walk but saves you a lot of pain. Booties dont help against them but make walking on the razor sharp lava a lot easier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on February 18, 2010, 11:28:01 pm
Oldfella

You must have the wrong preson, i am one of the milton Keynes massive. Our local spots are on the EAST coast out past the wash.
I love pasties and am hopeing to move to newquay next year once i have finished converting my split screen VW.

I went upto the NE coast once but it was too cold the locals were miserable bastards and took offence at me and my 8 mates catching party waves.
  :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 19, 2010, 10:30:49 pm
i just spent a few days in county antrim. Its bloody lovely.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 22, 2010, 11:03:19 am
Seem as i have now posted on here having just looked for the last X years i thought i would keep it going.

More swell for me this last weekend with sat big and mean, too much east in swell meant most waves closing out onto slab  leaving me battered brused and with my tail between my legs. Plus yet another badly dinged board (luckily not terminal). This is now my third board in two months that has been claimed by this reef, 1 totally dead and two in intensive care, who said surfing was cheap?
Sunday could not have been more opposite, shoulder to head high beachy action for three hours, clear blue sky and snow on the ground with not a breath of wind. Fun Fun Fun
God i love surfing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 22, 2010, 11:59:46 am
Moray Coast was apparently ace yesterday, shame I couldn't get there.

CLM could you see that pic I sent you a link to?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 22, 2010, 05:49:43 pm
Moray Coast was apparently ace yesterday, shame I couldn't get there.

CLM could you see that pic I sent you a link to?

Sorry chris, didnt get round to replying. I couldnt see the pic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on February 22, 2010, 10:07:45 pm
most waves closing out onto slab  leaving me battered brused and with my tail between my legs. Plus yet another badly dinged board (luckily not terminal). This is now my third board in two months that has been claimed by this reef, 1 totally dead and two in intensive care, who said surfing was cheap?

readin that is like music to Sam Egan's ears
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2010, 09:55:38 pm
Fistral clean today... good 3 ft sets...
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday two spongers and and three Newquayites....
tommorrow looks great... now sat in Kendal.... fackin work.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2010, 10:01:51 pm
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday two spongers and and three Newquayites....


was the report for Porthleven...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 23, 2010, 10:04:46 pm
Damn, i need to put my new wetsuit to good use before the winter waves finish!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 24, 2010, 09:46:25 pm
McNuffin for the rest of the week!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 24, 2010, 09:51:13 pm
Fistral clean today... good 3 ft sets...
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday
Yeah Gwithian was nice too (but Godrevy bouldering was wet..)

I watched a few guys out in Mounts Bay in my lunch hour yesterday, never seen people getting long long rides right next to St. Michaels Mount before. Looked really nice but a hard paddle. Can imagine Porth/Praa/PerranT must all have been firing
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2010, 09:25:27 am
Amazing swell would wrap all the way in there. Any pics?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 25, 2010, 12:42:57 pm
Amazing swell would wrap all the way in there. Any pics?

Yep here..

 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2704/4387372506_cd3e9411f0_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7261339@N04/4387372506/)

doesn't really do it justice, it was peeling better over nearer the causeway
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2010, 02:00:25 pm
Still cool tho'.

Should you venture out at Aberdeen today you run the danger of hitting lumps of ice. I kid you not, the Dee is full of it getting washed down and out to sea.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 25, 2010, 02:41:36 pm
http://thisrichtapestry.blogspot.com/ (http://thisrichtapestry.blogspot.com/)

Nice surfing/travel blog
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 05, 2010, 11:48:55 pm
Small clean pulse tomorrow....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 08, 2010, 07:08:21 pm
I don't know if this has been mentioned on here but on the subject of blogs (falling Down) i am a big fan of Dane Reynolds (http://www.marinelayerproductions.com (http://www.marinelayerproductions.com))

A happy medium for me as i like the artsy side of it all rather than the juvenile bullshit in a lot of the cutting edge surfing stuff, but i really am not into the retro/ alaia ridding hippy shit that tends to accompany many of the better written stuff.

Dane Reynolds and a few of the younger surfers (check out the modern collective DVD) who are really pushing the boundaries of what is possible seem to be putting a bit of character back into the top end of the sport.

Hope you enjoy, i am off to put the finishing touches to my tri plane hull bonzer i have shaped from my home grown Koa. Hopfully i will get well over two grand for it once finished.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 09, 2010, 08:39:22 am
2 grand? If you are Roy Stewart add a zero? :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 09, 2010, 12:18:07 pm
Didnt know the old blond crooner was making surfboards now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 09:55:38 am
Last Friday had my first ever taste of surfing with an evening lesson in Lahinch as the sun was setting.

Absolutely brilliant fun  :thumbsup:  Managed to get to standing on the first wave (meager achievement, but I was chuffed  :-[).  Thoroughly enjoyed every minute in the water, and the sunset was gorgeous too  :great:

Going to see if there are any beginners breaks on Madeira where I'm off too in just over a fortnight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2010, 10:32:47 am
Nice one slackers. Have spent many an hour looking out the window at howling onshore winds and rain and drinking Guiness in the pub overlooking Lahinch. Had a couple of good sessiosn down the coast though.

Will look at stormriders guide later on, I'm sure Madeira gets a writeup.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 12:10:12 pm
Can't believe its taken me this long to see what all the fuss over surfing is.  Don't think I'll take it up as a full-time sport/hobby, but something else to do on holidays, and definitely beats sitting around doing nothing.

Looks like I'm out of luck with Madeira (http://www.surfing-waves.com/travel/madeira.htm), although I might seek out some of the "all surfers" spots (http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/Madeira/index.html) in conjunction with some lessons though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2010, 12:16:09 pm
Better get better quickly then!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 12:46:42 pm
Madeira = big heavy open ocean surf.  I'd be very anxious about heading out there to surf and wouldn't take anything under 7'2" and 2 1/2" thick and a winter in the pool/gym/surfing big waves in the UK.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 01:04:04 pm
Watched a few videos just now during lunch  :o

Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 06:31:12 pm
Nice pic from near Abersoch at the weekend...

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/159241.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 30, 2010, 06:40:57 pm
Wow! You down at Easter FD?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 06:54:33 pm
Watched a few videos just now during lunch  :o

Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!

I'm sure the locals had to learn somewhere though. You might just have to man up and take lots of beatings :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 06:57:39 pm
Wow! You down at Easter FD?

Nope off to Siurana to try and kick start my climbing year .. Although after some news today I might be needing some urgent surf fitness before May.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2010, 08:18:24 pm
Cryptic response? Whatever that means I hope it's a positive result for you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 11:28:34 pm
Watched a few videos just now during lunch  :o

Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!

I'm sure the locals had to learn somewhere though. You might just have to man up and take lots of beatings :-)

 :-\ Guess you're right, might be game if its not too heaving  :devangel:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 31, 2010, 10:03:05 pm
.. just got back from Lanzarote and swell was pumping, La Santa was maxed out for a good proportion of the time which as it turned out was no great  loss.  Went exploring and found some gems...Surfed solid overhead el Golfo, on the east coast  - P.. M.. and Jameos del Agua, got a brief bit of not so perfect but fun all the same la Santa (still close to maxed out closing out right across) and come home a happy bunny. :great:

On urchins, by standing on tops of reefs and not in holes and by avoiding putting feet down I managed to avoid the buggers almost completely, 1 spine in my big toe.

On localism..  paddled out on my own at all the spots (Mrs G don't surf!), with a  :) on and said 'hola' to everyone, sat and waited my turn at the peaks of all the waves but made sure I went for the peaks and didn't faff waiting for inside waves or shoulder hopping..  Locals were nothing but friendly and didn't get any negative vibes at all.  The only person to 'have a word' was a young lad at Jameos, he told me 'I was getting too many waves and that i should show respect'!  I pointed out that he was sitting well inside and on the shoulder, that he would get no waves where he was and that I would show respect to him if he were on the peak.  ie. I wasn't about to sit outside him and catch nothing.  I invited him to paddle with me to the line up I was using and he promptly caught a wave.  He was stoked.  Didn't get shouted at, pointed at, attacked or called out the water, even got told I had a good session (in Spanish)!  So I guess I must've been doing something right..  :shrug:

All in all it was a splendid and surreal surfing experience, I was sat in the line up one evening watching the sun go down behind a volcano, with palm trees in the foreground, in warm water with perfect waves reeling off one after another thinking..  well this is nice.   :jaw:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 01, 2010, 09:17:54 am
Nice One...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 01, 2010, 11:14:18 am
Quote
Nice One...
  Aye! Twas flippin marvelous..  And what do I return to, snow, rain, wind, mush..  Looking pretty ugly for surfing down here at the moment :thumbsdown:

Slackers - I reckon you'll find some sheltered coves in Madeira to hone your skills at but be warned once you start down this path you it may well take over your life, in a good way mind..  If there are any booming swells coming through whilst you're there it would be pretty inspiring to watch some 'hell men' taking on the big wave spots. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 07, 2010, 03:17:41 pm
So thanks to a wine fuelled conversation between GME of this parrish and my darling wife at a party last weekend I'm now booked on another 'trip of a lifetime' to the Banyak Islands in four weeks time as a surprise 40th birthday gift.

I'd better get to the gym and the pool so I can be doing this again with confidence.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4500158116_80fda4b9ef.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4500158116_80fda4b9ef.jpg)

 :dance1:


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 07, 2010, 03:19:26 pm
.. just got back from Lanzarote and swell was pumping,

Sounds like a great trip.  Good to hear that a cool approach in the water paid dividends...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 07, 2010, 03:24:49 pm
Twice in a lifetime. Jammy git, better get the fitness up!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on April 09, 2010, 04:20:00 pm
FD,
i heard the ticket was coming your way.
now how about that braddock CD now you'll be 'training' in chesire for a surf trip in sumatra!!

last i heard from the koby ellis, you'd be needing tape worms rather than some fancy trainig regieme.

slackers,
don't start surfing, stick with the love of leather and willow.

Granticus,
glad you had some good waves in lanza.
surprised you did see jerry out there. bastard is there every 2nd week now days.....


a word of warning for all you 'fashionable' surfers, don't surf twin fins in double over head surf!!
beleieve me when i say the tri fin evolved with good reason.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 10, 2010, 10:06:13 am
Oldfella

OK OK I'll try and do that CD for you before we go away. 

As for tape worms, Koby could do with a measuring tape of his own.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 11, 2010, 10:11:31 pm
Quote
Granticus,
glad you had some good waves in lanza.
surprised you did see jerry out there. bastard is there every 2nd week now days.....

Didn't see a single non Canarian/Spanish surfer in the water at all, unless they were keeping a super low profile and/or have a very convincing Spanish accent..

Back to good ole 5mm, boots and gloves and hood...  Good swells last weekend, served up the goods in N. Devon great to be back but damn all the rubber is hard work!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 12, 2010, 06:01:18 pm
Been in with Callum!
Nice...
Went on a date to Llangenith, ended up in a shortie and a weird foamy... and ripped, funny watchin al the "others" fully wraped in 5mil ans boot and stuff in freezin water.... I just pretended i was in Hawaii!...
no swell west side all week!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 12, 2010, 10:55:40 pm
No swell. No Swell. No Swell!  Been a while since that's been the case, had a last blast at Croyde this morning on my longboard! (Haven't had to bring that into play for a while).

Nice article on MSW about this winter season and the weather patterns that have caused a good season for the South Coast. Apparently it's been crap for Maderia though, nevermind Slackers...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 13, 2010, 08:04:26 am
something to do with the El Nino effect...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2010, 08:35:32 am
No swell. No Swell. No Swell!  Been a while since that's been the case, had a last blast at Croyde this morning on my longboard!

Sounds like the East Coast.

Heard sunday morning was good at Saunton? May have been mate prone to hyperbole though.

So you eventually went for a longboard after initial reticence then?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 13, 2010, 11:57:22 am
Quote
Heard sunday morning was good at Saunton? May have been mate prone to hyperbole though.

So you eventually went for a longboard after initial reticence then?

The words good and Saunton don't generally get used in my vocabulary, wasn't anywhere near the coast on Sunday but my assumption is that it was knee high and clean at best (which if we're talking about Saunton = a very unexciting surfing experience).

YEP!  I have a minimal about 7''4 and a 7''6 Bonzer (my first board).  They only come into play when the surf is 1 to 2ft and they are lots of fun in smaller waves which in the past I would've just sacked off.  However, if the surf is 3ft upwards it's back to the shorties for me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2010, 12:38:10 pm
7' 6" aint no longboard!

He is a dead keen longboarder so I guess his idea of what is good differs from yours.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 13, 2010, 04:10:19 pm
Aye... Probably was a nice little slow moving, dribbler of a wave at Saunton.
7''6 is long compared to 6''2.  I guess the point is I've taken to using longer boards with more volume on smaller days and that it is lots of fun!  Not the same as ripping into overhead waves on a shortboard but fun all the same. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2010, 05:05:43 pm
Anyone managing to get Thurso CWC streaming?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 13, 2010, 06:07:05 pm
They stopped the comp earlier today - conditions. Resuming tmr.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 13, 2010, 10:11:54 pm
watched a little bit this morning...  First Call is for 6.30am tommorow so could start pretty soon after that.  Brimms tommorow, then looking like they'll head to Thurso later in the week. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 16, 2010, 09:53:40 am
A surfing alpaca  :o

(http://www.independent.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00337/Tuesday_-_Peru_337221s.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2010, 09:56:16 am
an alcapa wearing accapi?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 19, 2010, 11:49:12 am
First dawnie of the year. YYFY. Small clean swell, nice for some longboard glides. Then it started snowing!? Was just about hypothermic by the time I changed out of wettie, got dressed and walked to work. It's mid April FFS.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 20, 2010, 03:18:44 pm
Quote
First dawnie of the year. YYFY. Small clean swell, nice for some longboard glides. Then it started snowing!? Was just about hypothermic by the time I changed out of wettie, got dressed and walked to work. It's mid April FFS.

We have had the longest spell of good weather I can think of in recent times...  Been 18 days of sunshine and blue skies so far down here.  Car thermo read 22 celcius yesterday.  Shorts and t-shirts have been dug out the drawers.  Been bouldering regular and sport climbing.. Beautiful!  But it's also been FLAT, like proper FLAT, not even a wave that's surfable by a mouse, NOTHING! It may be cold but at least you're getting waves!  Looks like we may be waiting until early next week for a swell of any kind...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 20, 2010, 04:59:48 pm
Two three hour sessions yestersday, first light and last light. Morning a bit average but nice to be in water, evening really nice once wind dropped off. Nice little left reef with only three in.

I love the winter for the swell and not mad keen on the summer, but the late nights/ early mornings are a god send.

Water is still f**king cold though, cant see taking hood and gloves off for at least another month and i dont feel the cold that bad.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 20, 2010, 06:08:26 pm
Had a fantastic dawnie two weeks ago... got up, looked out, two foot peeling Fistral! only one in for two hours... cross stepping and nose riding on command, Got out ... Sun Sea Sand bars and Surf... STOKED!
Its great to have one of the best breaks (Arguably), to your self!!! reminded me of soloing accross Stanage edge with no one around!!! love these momments!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2010, 07:22:45 pm
Water is still f**king cold though, cant see taking hood and gloves off for at least another month

Definitely. Worst time of year for feeling cold as air temp is warming up faster than sea.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 10, 2010, 11:18:09 am
Just a quick heads up surfing chums.  'Waveriders' a documentary about surfing in in Ireland is on this evening 10.35pm on BBC1 Northern Ireland.... 

I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 11, 2010, 11:07:51 am
Nice short from Cali

Home Is Where The Surf Is (http://vimeo.com/11272077)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2010, 12:35:45 pm
Some nice footage, not sure what benefit there was including Slutter in it though.

Could do with a wave like that right now.

Is FD in Indo yet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on May 11, 2010, 12:56:01 pm
yes, FD, GME, Moon and Moffatt all taking in the pleasures that coral reefs, sunshine and 8 ft indian ocean swells offer.

bastards, :furious:

they will be back around the 27th may
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2010, 12:57:39 pm
Barstewards. And it's still flatter than a flounders cock here, as it has been for quite a while.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2010, 01:04:53 pm

I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/ (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 11, 2010, 11:28:07 pm
Aye!  Tried to watch it live :thumbsdown:  But at least tis on iplayer.  Nice film, enjoyed it  ;D

Still flippin flat here and hearing that folk are in Indo enjoying perfection is not helping :wall:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on May 12, 2010, 12:27:40 pm
tell me about it.
this is my 2nd trip i have had to abort due to other influences.
those being;
- the unplanned birth of my first child. due the week we (I) was supposed to fly out!!!
- starting a new business and not having anyone to run it while i was away.

to make it worse, this sunday and monday they will be getting a lovely 10+ft swell at 16 seconds.
and that shit wont dissapear anytime soon.

if either FD or GME moan over the next 12months after a trip like that, feel free to kick them as hard as you can in the balls.

that will give them something to moan about....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2010, 01:45:52 pm
You really shouldn't torture yourself looking at the forecasts.

I will take solace in the fact that a 10ft swell on a shallow reefbreak would probably kill me outright.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 13, 2010, 10:26:27 pm
Quote
I will take solace in the fact that a 10ft swell on a shallow reefbreak would probably kill me outright.

Sounds pant filling to me too.... but 10ft swell = special nooks and crannies in sheltered corners lighting up at a more ameanable size.  Or we could just grow a pair, bring out the gun and man up TOAD!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Turboman on May 14, 2010, 09:57:04 pm
If any of you family men ever find yourself suffering the delights of Disney World - Orlando, this place provides some blessed relief.  Apologies for the 'home video' I knocked it together for the grandparents.

Charlie Don't Surf (http://vimeo.com/11746045)

Incase you're wondering the lass helping me into the wave is none other than current womens US East coast champ Ami Berg (http://www.cflsurf.com/images/ami/ami.html) Definitely one for DFBWGS!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 16, 2010, 01:38:04 pm
 :bounce:  Swell Call, been waiting for a while but forecast is looking strong for this week Tues onwards. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2010, 03:22:18 pm
Forecast here has changed too. From flat to stupidly flat http://magicseaweed.com/Aberdeen-Surf-Report/41/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Aberdeen-Surf-Report/41/)

Worst spring ever.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 24, 2010, 10:56:48 am
How good has it been in the SW over the last week?!  fantastic..  summer suit out, bikini's on the beach and great waves..

surfed 4 times over the weekend, here's how Gwenvor looked when I arrived on Saturday morning..

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4634375113_a0353878a9.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 24, 2010, 10:58:36 am
Gwenvor looks like it was over-saturated on Saturday  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2010, 11:10:41 am
Mornin' fellas.

Back at work and more than a bit jetlagged.  We had a great trip with good swell over the two weeks with only a couple of onshore/small days (an ear infection kept me out of the water for 4 days though  :().

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3343/4635218450_59dd8dd068.jpg) (http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshire_ben/4635218450/" title="Bay of Plenty - May 2010 by Derbyshire_Ben, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3343/4635218450_59dd8dd068.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Bay of Plenty - May 2010" /></a>)

More pics and details to follow.....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 24, 2010, 11:15:14 am
Gwenvor looks like it was over-saturated on Saturday  :P
Yeah twas taken with my new HTC Desire and not entirely convinced by it's camera..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2010, 12:19:34 pm
(an ear infection kept me out of the water for 4 days though  :().

Bummer. Did you pick it up there or have it before you left?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2010, 12:31:23 pm
There... water stuck in ear, tropical conditions etc. etc.  I was kicking myself for not using my ear plugs but I normally associate them with cold water. Luckily we had antibiotics and antibiotic drops onboard otherwise I would have been in trouble so far away from a medical centre.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on May 24, 2010, 01:35:17 pm

I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/ (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/)

It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 24, 2010, 01:47:12 pm
Quote
It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)
  Tis available yer too but I'm a bit on the mean side so watching it for free was just what i was after. 

Last week did indeed pump, favourable winds and the weather has been beaut, got in 4 times for about 3 hours each session..  The hoods gone, the gloves are gone and the boots are gone.  Flat again now... 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2010, 02:01:07 pm
Some nice footage, not sure what benefit there was including Slutter in it though.

I could be wrong but the film is dedicated to Rennie Yater, one of the innovators of board design and inventor of the 'Spoon' displacement hull boards back in the day which were a big contributing factor to the shortboard revolution.  It then shows various people riding displacement hull/liddle inspired boards and then Slater in the shaping bay making a board that he then rides that looks like some wierd displacement/thruster combination.  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2010, 02:30:00 pm

It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)

It's good, but not worth forking out readies for. As far as quality Irish Footage goes, the Relentless Energy one is miles better IMO.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2010, 02:31:19 pm
Flat again now...

Conicidentally it was flat here last week, and is still flat now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 30, 2010, 02:36:39 pm
Slideshow from Banyak trip here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshire_ben/sets/72157624041337311/show
 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshire_ben/sets/72157624041337311/show)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 30, 2010, 03:08:22 pm
Looks amazing. I need to get back out to indo, what a place.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on May 31, 2010, 01:23:28 am
With the first big storms of the winter brewing, sydney was going off the last couple of weekends

A selection shots below all from here (http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=7555&cateId=26&display=0&title=May%2013%20%E2%80%93%2016,%202010.%20The%20first%20solid%206-8ft%20plus%20south%20swell%20of%20the%20autumn/winter%20season!)

Cronulla
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/28May10-2_2010528131618.jpg)

Bronte
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/Kobi_Graham02_2010519154928.jpg)

South Sydney
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/untitled[2]_2010519153328.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on May 31, 2010, 06:36:35 am
i can concur that the surf was pumping this weekend!!!
it was a great way to break a surf drought since Easter holidays. a work imposed exile
more barrells in one day than i've had in the past 3 years!
proper deep ones too, not those little shampoo things where you see a bit of the lip infront and a quick gurgle behind.

very very happy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 02, 2010, 06:07:42 pm
More pumpage this week.  :dance1:  Been splendid and warm too!
Surfed a lurverly rocky point this morning, me and 4 others all folks I know, taking turns and attempting to shred
to our best.  There's been furineerz all over this place during the winter, so it was refreshing to get an all locals session
without the crowd factor.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 02, 2010, 06:34:16 pm
Nice pics Carnage. Cronulla looks great.

Oldfella - glad you got some after missing out. It would have been great to have you along.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 09:49:20 am
Looking for some advice from the UKB surfing gurus.  Me and the missus are heading down to N Devon and Cornwall at the end of the week and I wondered where we should go. She body boards and I'm a rank beginner with an 8'6" board to play with.  So, Croyde, Bude.........where should we be heading?  :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2010, 10:13:16 am
Any of the above. In summer time the life guards have odd rules about bodyboarders at patrolled beaches - if you don't have fins you are regarded as a tourist and therefore have to stay in the swimming area, if you have fins you are a "proper" bodyboarder and have to stay outside it. Most odd.

That aside, Woolacombe at Croyde is a good place to escape the crowds, esp if you drive down the road a bit and walk down to the beach - you can sometimes pick your own peak. This time of year Putsborough and Croyde are heaving, as is Saunton, but you can combine Puts and Croyde with a low tide route or two at Baggy, which is always a bonus.

Working southwards - Summerleaze at Bude is nice, but most likely v busy, so good alternatives are Northcott and Sandymouth just North, both OK, but parking is limited. Can also be combined with climbing or bouldering.

Widemouth is also quite nice, bt again can be crowded.

South again are the breaks around Padstow - Polzeath and Constantine are good, but can be crowded (can you see a theme developing here). Harlyn Bay is worth remembering as westerly winds are offshore here, so good when everywhere else is blown out. Again, can be combine with Pentire.

Those are the most popular options there are loads of quieter spots inbetween. Granticus may spill the beans on some via PM if he's feeling generous.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 10:33:49 am
Thanks Chris!  Very prompt and gives me loads to think about.  I've been dabbling in surfing for years and I'm determined to really knuckle down and give it a shot - perhaps the 8'6" board will help!   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2010, 01:56:32 pm
No probs. I recommend getting a bit of swimming in and do at least a few push ups and pop ups at home every day before you go. Nothing worse that reaching that point in the session where things are really starting to come together technique wise and your arms start giving out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 04:50:58 pm
No probs. I recommend getting a bit of swimming in and do at least a few push ups and pop ups at home every day before you go. Nothing worse that reaching that point in the session where things are really starting to come together technique wise and your arms start giving out.

Arms?  What arms?  They whithered away when I gave up climbing, (almost)  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2010, 07:27:31 pm
Then yo ass is in deep trouble. Prepare for paddle outs when the arms feel like limp noodles.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 05, 2010, 07:50:51 pm
and shoulders... daily building to thrice daily  4 sets x 25 rep pressups wide, tricep and long until Holiday plus lots of pool work.  Enjoy :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 05, 2010, 08:10:07 pm
guess thats me too fd. Wide i get, tricep? Long?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 11:27:55 pm
Fuck me!  If I'd wanted PTI's, I'd have asked!  ;D  OK, OK, I'm a bad boy  :spank: I'll put in the work  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: yorkshirewarcry on June 06, 2010, 12:34:28 am
I've not surfed much in Devon, but when I climbed at Speke's Mill Mouth, close to Hartland, last year there were loads of folk in the water in the beach below.  Bit of a walk to get down there unless you have a 4x4 I think, but an awesome spot and the surf looked pretty good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesPullan on June 06, 2010, 09:32:24 am
It sounds to me that the are showing absolutely no regard for the "rule of the wave", I don't surf but even I know that if you spot a wave before another surfer, it's your wave and you have rights to it.

I reckon if they turned up individually you wouldn't have had a problem. Whether it was long board snobbery or aggression in numbers is debatable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 06, 2010, 09:49:56 am
James, are you referring to my original post from 43 pages ago? If not, not sure of the relevance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 06, 2010, 12:18:44 pm
guess thats me too fd. Wide i get, tricep? Long?

Sorry CLM just noticed this.

Tricep pressups.. a pushup with hands down by the waist and in against the body. Let me see if I can find a picture..

(http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2008/02/12/WMB80.fuel.ex_bf2-480-90-480-70.jpg)

Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Paul B on June 06, 2010, 12:45:37 pm
Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.

They're hard! Tried them on rings?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 12:04:33 am
Quote
Those are the most popular options there are loads of quieter spots inbetween. Granticus may spill the beans on some via PM if he's feeling generous.
JH I may be too late for your trip but given that you are a rank beginner on an 8''6 my advice is this.. Ideally you want offshore or very light winds and a nice knee to waste high wave.

In North Devon..  Better waves for you (ie. mellower waves that will give you a chance to hone your skills without eating sand/rock) will be Saunton Sands (mid to high tide), Woolacombe (mid to high tide), Westward Ho! (low to three quarters) and Putsborough (all through tides mid to high being better).  Puts will be a touch smaller than everywhere else because it's sheltered and you can walk to get away from crowds at all these spots.  Low tide Croyde is best avoided until you are good because it's powerful, fast, shallow (dangerous!) and the locals are agressive or is that competative?

In North Cornwall.. Mellower waves are Polzeath, Summerleaze, Widemouth..  Quieter spots can be found North of Bude ie. Sandymouth, Northcott, Duckpool.. but can only be surfed around low-tide (due to rocks and cliffs at high-tide), they also tend to be heavier waves than the above mentioned.  Harlyn is off-shore in a Southerly/ South Westerly (west is cross) and is a fast wave that tends to close-out,  Constantine (or 'Boobies') again tends to be a heavier wave. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 12:15:23 am
I've not surfed much in Devon, but when I climbed at THAT PLACE, close to Hartland, last year there were loads of folk in the water in the beach below.
  It is a reef break, waves break over jagged rock fins, it also very localised and not the sort of place to rock up to if your face is not familiar.  Not really what JH is after and not really a place to shout about :spank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 07, 2010, 08:28:56 am
Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.

They're hard! Tried them on rings?

Never tried rings but I'd like to. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 07, 2010, 09:44:15 am

JH I may be too late for your trip but given that you are a rank beginner on an 8''6 my advice is this.. Ideally you want offshore or very light winds and a nice knee to waste high wave.

Thanks granticus!  Not going till the end of the week, so this is great beta.  I'll let you know how beaten up I am when I get back!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 01:31:37 pm
Hi guys, got 2 weeks holiday at the end of october, looking for somewhere with reasonable surf and warm weather for the girlfriend. Ideally I would head back to indo but its a long way to go for such a short time (always used to go for a month or two). Thinking about sri lanka but not sure where to head as end of october is right between the recommended times for the main areas; east (a bay) or south west. Has anyone here been especially around this time of the year?

Any other recommendations greatfully received (morocco is out as already been this year)

cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 07, 2010, 02:06:17 pm
Stay in Europe. All the main spots will be primetime. France, spain,portugal or the canaries. 3/2 wetsuit at most and proper swells. All depends on how hot your girl wants it.

I never understand surfers leaving europe in the autumn?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2010, 02:38:13 pm
Hebrides for the warmth! :)

Well, provided you have a nice fire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 02:40:46 pm
Personally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2010, 02:43:45 pm
Or just teach the one you have?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 02:46:57 pm
tried that a few times... think her fear of water held her back..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2010, 03:55:24 pm
Upgrade time then :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 07, 2010, 04:36:15 pm
Never get a girlfriend who surfs, or teach the one you have. Same goes for climbing.
Half the fun is getting away with the lads.
What you want is to get her into some other sport or pastime that takes up loads of her spare weekends and holidays. She will never then want to go away with you meaning you could goto the hebs.

Also you can surf all day long without having to pretend your enjoying all the la de da bullshit that they want to do when really you just want to eat, drink ,watch the surf then get back in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 04:36:57 pm
hmm...so now i need somewhere with good surf and hot (or not) girls who like bouldering and surfing... you're not making things any easier..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 04:40:03 pm
Quote
Personally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!

Canaries would be a good compromise... went to Lanza for the first time this year and had an epic time.. (See earlier in
this thread)..

Don't get a girlfriend who surfs or try to teach yours to surf, this is a recipe for arguments galour.  She can sunbathe
whilst you surf and you won't have to 'look after' someone in the line up.  Leaving you to enjoy your selfish rights or lefts
free from the hassle (at least from the missus that is).  Seriously, time apart is healthy and you don't need to surf all day.
You do your thing, she does hers and you do something together at another point in the day, simples. :kiss1: 

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 05:02:36 pm
Quote
Personally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!

Canaries would be a good compromise... went to Lanza for the first time this year and had an epic time.. (See earlier in
this thread)..

Don't get a girlfriend who surfs or try to teach yours to surf, this is a recipe for arguments galour.  She can sunbathe
whilst you surf and you won't have to 'look after' someone in the line up.  Leaving you to enjoy your selfish rights or lefts
free from the hassle (at least from the missus that is).  Seriously, time apart is healthy and you don't need to surf all day.
You do your thing, she does hers and you do something together at another point in the day, simples. :kiss1:

Thats our usual plan and it works nicely, hence it has to be warm for her. Had seen your comments regarding lanza, does sound good, its having to hire a car which makes the canaries or portugal end up costing the same as heading further.

I'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 07, 2010, 06:35:44 pm
madagascar? No idea if its the right season. Just looks nice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 07, 2010, 10:19:54 pm
I've heard it's as sharky as fook.  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 11:27:42 pm
Quote
I'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.

Not all the reefs are seriously shallow on Lanza but there is definitely a crowd/locals factor.  Spain, SW France or Portugal sound like the goer.  Sri Lanka's supposed to be awesome mind.. looks like it pumps at A Bay in October with morning offshores.. and plenty of long mellow sandy points, yum yum.. http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10 (http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10) 

Failing that you could come and spend some of your hard earned in the SW Uk... :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 08:37:31 am
I've heard it's as sharky as fook.  :(

Yup heard similar.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 08, 2010, 09:30:17 am
Quote
I'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.

Not all the reefs are seriously shallow on Lanza but there is definitely a crowd/locals factor.  Spain, SW France or Portugal sound like the goer.  Sri Lanka's supposed to be awesome mind.. looks like it pumps at A Bay in October with morning offshores.. and plenty of long mellow sandy points, yum yum.. http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10 (http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10) 

Failing that you could come and spend some of your hard earned in the SW Uk... :thumbsup:

cheers for the link, thats just what I was looking for. Wasn't aware of that option on magic seaweed, very useful.

Cheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 09:55:45 am
Elephants etc - South Africa? October will be springtime, so tail end of winter swells, buy you could easily do a J-Bay / Addo NP Combo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2010, 12:30:38 pm
Interesting new group of "surfers" identified....

Surfing crocs (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/science_and_environment/10260382.stm#id10260000/10263200/10263246)

 :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2010, 01:22:29 pm
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave. Magic Seaweed forecast is just automated and have been told from a reliable source that even though MS predict no wave, there often is. Thanks!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 01:30:52 pm
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave.

Deep Low Pressure in Mid Atlantic? :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2010, 01:32:15 pm
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave.

Deep Low Pressure in Mid Atlantic? :)

 ::) Someone told me the exact setup to look out for, but have forgotten. Any useful answers?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 01:51:56 pm
FD's home turf.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 08, 2010, 01:52:56 pm
http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/surfreport.htm (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/surfreport.htm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 08, 2010, 02:03:51 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.

Beyond that that, check the synoptic charts, prevailing weather and tide every day and see how that compares with what you are seeing on the webcams at WestCoast, that should give you a good idea of when it's working and when it isn't.

I'm not being facetious but to get to grips with a spot you need to surf there and just hang out alot to learn the ropes, it takes a reasonably long time to figure this kind of stuff out.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 08, 2010, 05:38:54 pm
Quote
Cheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.


Gutted for you!! :boohoo:  Mate Sri Lanka, by all accounts, will be mint. 

Quote
Someone told me the exact setup to look out for, but have forgotten. Any useful answers?

Going with the FD theme, the useful answer is, to look carefully at swell direction especially for spots like the Lleyn where
if there is too much west in the swell it will miss the target, look carefully at swell size (the size of the breaking wave will vary according to the swell size and the set up it's hitting) and quality (quality being indicated
by the swell period 10 secs = getting good 14 secs = pumping),  look carefully at wind direction (offshore or no wind is
preferable) and look carefully at tides (remember spring tides are bigger, so lower low and higher highs, neap tides will vary less).
Combine all this information with your favourite spot/ area and you'll know where to go when, meaning you should get the
best waves available on any given day (provided there is swell that is).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 08, 2010, 08:33:21 pm
Quote
Cheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.


Gutted for you!! :boohoo:  Mate Sri Lanka, by all accounts, will be mint. 

Quote


Ok you may have a point. Looking forward to it now  :bounce:

is that better?! :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 08, 2010, 10:35:12 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 08, 2010, 10:42:40 pm
Eh? Do you prefer an onshore wind or are you suggesting it never fuckin happens...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on June 11, 2010, 10:58:13 am
Anyone recommend an online surfshop?

And whats your thoughts on C-Skins wetsuits?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on June 11, 2010, 12:02:58 pm
Actually dont worry about it particularly. I was just talking to Dr Pinch who said you should go and try some on and pick one that fits and that you can afford. Sounds like good advice I thought.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on June 11, 2010, 12:26:46 pm
Secret Spot in Scarborough. They also own and run the shop at Cayton Bay and have an on-line store.

I'm buying a new suit tomorrow. Different brand this time (like rock boots the fit varies) so I'm going to Cayton to
try it on first then buy it if it fits. Support the local shops.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 11, 2010, 12:33:06 pm
Once you know what brand and what size fits, you can then buy on-line at a (possibly) cheaper price.  You can
normally get good deals on out of season suits (ie. buy your winter suit in summer and your summer suit in winter) and
by buying last years models..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 11, 2010, 12:54:26 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:

The only way to be 100% sure of a good wave down there, is to wait for a a full blown depression to roll up under ireland, with 8 foot swell and howling onshore, head to the north and your away. If anyone thinks they can predict 'good' surf at hells mouth and get it right then ill buy the :beer1: :beer1:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 11, 2010, 01:12:41 pm
Actually dont worry about it particularly. I was just talking to Dr Pinch who said you should go and try some on and pick one that fits and that you can afford. Sounds like good advice I thought.

It's definitely good advice. C-Skins are fairly good suits. Not best, but definitely not worst. Need to watch out for some right crap out there, though. I think it's Billabong that make terrible suits, and is that a Ripcurl you bought up here FD that leaked like a sieve.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 11, 2010, 01:41:03 pm
I would go xcel all the time for warmth, i have had 4 of there suits now and surf NE coast right through the winter in a 5/3. Only problem i have had is two zip failures where the zip has just come off in my hand. Both times they have replaced the zip FOC so i found there after sales good.

For flexibility i have found ripcurl the best as well as quicksilver.

Billabong are crap in my opinion, not had much joy with Gul either, although i havent tried there recent suits.

Not tried cskins, a mate had a 4/3 that he rated though.

As you have been told though its all in the fit. Billabong suits always leave a pocket sized gap around my balls that fills up with cold water. Not that pleasent as you can imagine.

It could just be the small size of my balls though especially after 2 hours in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 11, 2010, 01:47:38 pm
Ripcurl all the way for me.

I heard Decathlon are good for suits.... well they've got a good advertising strategy anyway

Spot TV - Maillot Tribord (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yzh8CYoZiEo#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 11, 2010, 04:02:20 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:

The only way to be 100% sure of a good wave down there, is to wait for a a full blown depression to roll up under ireland, with 8 foot swell and howling onshore, head to the north and your away. If anyone thinks they can predict 'good' surf at hells mouth and get it right then ill buy the :beer1: :beer1:

Too right. Its getting to the point now where ive been in at porth oer more than anywhere else over there.
To be honest, its too far to really watch the conditions. I tend to just go cos its a bloody nice place and if theres waves theres waves. If not theres plenty more around to do.
And yes, its always fuckin onshore!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Willriseley on June 12, 2010, 12:27:48 am
C-Skins suits for me all the way, have both a winter wired  5mm and there summer wired 3mm which is ace. Have been surfing up here (crappy kent) in the 3mm since April with boots, shouldnt need my winter suit until oct/nov time when it gets a bit chilly.

Plus with the up and over neck closure on the wireds i get absolutelty no flushing, My winter suit i pretty much stay dry in on the chest panel
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 13, 2010, 10:50:57 pm

If anyone thinks they can predict 'good' surf at hells mouth and get it right then ill buy the :beer1: :beer1:
[/quote]

mmm....look forward to the beers then, thank you

West Coast in Abersoch sells C-Skins and has a v efficient online service

The new O'Neill suits are v v nice (won SIMA awards recently), Phill at Abersoch Watersports sells them

Excel v good (although I think may be pipped by the new O'Neill's) - available online from Offaxis

Blatant plug of mates businesses over....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 15, 2010, 01:03:40 pm
How are you mr lamacraft. I have not seen you in an age. Ben keeps me informed as to what your upto.

Hope life is still all good down there.

I am living way up north now in a land your all too familiar with, nice to be right by the sea.

I must try to get over your way with Ben sometime when there is a wave, would be great to catch up, or if you fancy a bit of East coast action your welcome anytime.

Cheers

Gav
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 15, 2010, 06:57:18 pm
Hey Gav,

Good to hear from you, things good here thanks - you're welcome anytime, not sure Ben would be interested though, he's gone all 'Noel' and only surfs tropical perfection these days!

You're in a beautiful part of the world, Sam and I keep talking about a trip over, we'll make it one day.

We've had a good winter/spring for surf really, how's it been over there?

Dave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 16, 2010, 10:59:34 am
Dave

Spring has been average but the winter was pretty epic. Cold but epic. We had pretty constant surf from december through to march. Usually 2-3 good days each week.

Loads of good waves and very quiet (or it was until the magazines started putting pics and articles about one particular wave in them). There are only a hand full of people surfing so i spend a lot of time in the water on my own which is great when its head high on the beach but a bit scary out on some of the slabs when they get overhead.

Will have to get you and mr Tye up here in the autumn for a guided tour.

gav
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 16, 2010, 07:09:03 pm
Sounds good to me Gav, if we start getting Ben in wetsuits now he may be used to it by then
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 16, 2010, 07:48:29 pm
the calling of the east.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 16, 2010, 10:24:12 pm
Flippin 'eck I turn my back for two days and now I'm some fairweather fly-by-night tropical water loving softie  :guilty:

Dave - Hang on here for too long and you'll be trading Easterlies for good conditions on the grit.. (which is probably why CLM has never had it good at The Mouth).

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 17, 2010, 11:02:22 am
Funny you should say that.....I'm leafing through the Lleyn guide right now sorting out this review of the Cilan restrictions, and had started thinking there must be something you could drag me up....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 17, 2010, 11:28:12 am
You got the '09 supplement (http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/guidebooks/downloads/LLYN_09.pdf) too Dave?

Getting a bit OT, but on Cilan Fisherman's Crawl  is a very good VS/ HVS. A great day out in high summer is the traverse/ swim from Trywn Cilan to Trwyn y Fulfran. There are some nice easy routes in Quarry 5 at Tyn Tywyn too. Is that wierd sport route still there, must visit with spanner if so!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 18, 2010, 06:15:00 pm
A great excursion, "this is where Crispin saw that big blue shark...."
SPLASH!
Arrrrrrrgh!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 18, 2010, 06:20:37 pm
Ha, I've never seen anyone get out of the water so quickly. You dived in, then came straight back out like a torpedo!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 21, 2010, 08:17:18 pm
Proposed footpath closure at Hells Mouth - a step closure to Fistralisation?

For those who surf at Hell's Mouth you may want to know there are moves afoot to close the footpath across the dunes from the stile i.e. where you would walk to go and surf and the corner/reef.  It seems this is part of a deal to extend the car park (with some noises about the introduction of car parking charges, enforcing the no overnight parking rule etc.), and create a new fenced in path along the rapidly eroding cliff top (mmmm.....).  Basically it seems like the landowners are happy to give land for the car park in exchange for closure of the existing footpath from the stile. There's a public meeting next Tuesday in Llanengan village hall (Y Canolfan) where we will find out more about the proposals.  The the local councillors are v keen, but it doesn't seem to be particularly  popular among many local and visiting beach users, surfers etc.  Would be interested in any views.

Dave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 22, 2010, 09:59:22 pm
Thanks for bringing this to our attention Dave. I love the path along the top of the dunes, I've been walking it since I was little and would be very sad to see it closed.  It's a unique walk that gives a unique perspective over the sea and bay on one side and views inland on the other. Yes it's a sensitive zone between land and sea but that is why it's important to keep access.  Walking along the tops as he skylarks start singing around dawn is a very special thing and I'd be very sad I'd it was taken away to make way for a bigger car park that caters for the overflow that only happens on busy weekends.

I just don't see the logic in the proposal.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 22, 2010, 10:41:45 pm
I'd also be very disappointed to lose this path. I appreciate the parking needs addressing but I don't see how this is relevant. Are they suggesting closing a footpath is a planning gain for locals? Seems bizarre.

Quote
and create a new fenced in path along the rapidly eroding cliff top (mmmm.....)

Noticed this happening on Cilan above Dorys too. Is it the only way landowners will accept the creation of the Lleyn coastal path? If so its a crap solution. Walking along a fenced corridor is not what these places are about.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on June 23, 2010, 12:43:24 pm
I'd be very sad if it was taken away to make way for a bigger car park that caters for the overflow that only happens on busy weekends.

I just don't see the logic in the proposal.
when you start having to pay 5 quid for 3 hrs parking, the logic will be as clear as crystal with probably 3% of revenue raised go to the land owner
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 23, 2010, 03:53:42 pm

when you start having to pay 5 quid for 3 hrs parking, the logic will be as clear as crystal with probably 3% of revenue raised go to the land owner
[/quote]

Its a weird one, can't see the car park being that much bigger than it is now (certainly not big enough for all the cars you get on a busy day) + my understanding is they can't put double-yellows on the road as its not a built up area (not sure if that's right), so parking on the road will always be the first choice if they introduce charges - which won't solve the 'problem'.  Have also heard that the council haven't got the cash to do the car park, and won't have for 6 years.  Increasingly it looks like this is really about closing the PRoW across the dunes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 23, 2010, 03:56:39 pm
on a lighter note.....awesome point action, sick barrels and a grumpy pony....

http://video.mpora.com/watch/CeKjnT5Ja/ (http://video.mpora.com/watch/CeKjnT5Ja/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 23, 2010, 05:26:06 pm
More gaping barrels and some nice lip action, oh and a nice bowl for the dry landers :dance1:

http://www.skipass.com/videos/my-toys.html (http://www.skipass.com/videos/my-toys.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 25, 2010, 10:35:15 am
It is pumping down here again!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 25, 2010, 11:34:24 am
Where is down here as i (being a sad chart obsessive who checks everywhere in the uk to make myself miserable) cant see anywhere in the UK that would come even close to being called pumping???
Close to being called rideable may be closer to the mark.

I guess your somewhere overseas.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 25, 2010, 11:44:19 am
Longboarder - 2ft = pumping :0)

Actually some nice deepish lows mid atlantic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 26, 2010, 10:51:58 am
It is pumping down here again!!!!
Where is down here as i (being a sad chart obsessive who checks everywhere in the uk to make myself miserable) cant see anywhere in the UK that would come even close to being called pumping???
Close to being called rideable may be closer to the mark.

I guess your somewhere overseas.

I believe Mr Idol is down yer in the SW and despite the look of the charts, there have been some good days over the last week.  In the right spots, at the right stage of tide, there have been some good sessions.

However, a proper pumping swell from said lows is arriving tonight and should last all day Sunday which coincides nicely with the arrival of billions of weekend warriors.  Yes, silly season has arrived and the lifeguards will be busy tomorrow. 

Last week the lifeguards actually called all the hire board crew (aka kooks) out of the water on low-tide Croyde 'we advise you take a look at the conditions and use your judgement...'.  Most took the advice, those that didn't got the  :spank: of their lives and then got out (or washed up onto the beach).  The ultimate maneuver I witnessed was the stand facing out to sea (with your long board sideways in front of you), to get sucked up the face (don't let go of your board), to back flip into reverse sand plant hold down.  Bloody funny but could've been serious all the same, she won't be ignoring lifeguards again anytime soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on June 27, 2010, 12:56:18 pm
who wants to go to Sri Lanka??

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/10425220.stm (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/10425220.stm)

also talks about rock outcrops - if anyone goes how's about scoping for bouldering too
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 28, 2010, 04:16:24 pm
Spent two months there last summer... Coast has got nuffin... The cultural triangle has lots of snake infested rock outcrops...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 28, 2010, 06:34:48 pm
Things what I have learned on my holidays  :-\

1. Take the advice of the UKB surfing team and do press-ups and pop-ups before you go.  Me feckin arms nearly fell off a couple of times.

2. Never trust your mate when he says he's lending you an 8'6" board - it must be like willys, he overestimated by a foot, (so, not exactly like willys then?!)

3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.

4. Thanks SAChris and Granticus - top advice.  Ended up at Woolacombe, pretty weedy waves apart from one day, (sunday last week), but fine for a beginner like me.

I'm hooked  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 28, 2010, 08:41:21 pm


3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.



 :lol:  How true. I remember thinking I was a natural after standing up during my first lesson, only to later realise I'm crap and I wasn't surfing a board, it was a boat.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 28, 2010, 08:47:52 pm

3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.


So true. Once you have got the standing up down, then it starts getting really good fun.

So board was 7'6"then? should be about right for a fit and healthy young male! I did a lot of my learning on a 8ish ft board, and it served me well for a long time.

Go home, regroup, head down again Sept Oct time. Crowds have gone home, air is cooler so water feels warmer, and you get the autumn / early winter swells start to pick up. And remember Hell's mouth and the N Yorkshire coast aren't that far away!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 28, 2010, 10:26:23 pm
Quote
I'm hooked   :thumbsup:

Nice one, stoked for you!  8) Standing up is the beginning and Chris is right it gets better from here on in.  As with climbing, the learning curve is steep but you will need lots of practice which'll also get you fitter.

Check those charts and get on it when the waves are good, avoid onshore winds and windswells.

Next stage for you, (once you can stand confidentally and straight line it in the whitewater), is taking off as the wave breaks, the 'bottom turn' and 'trimming' across the wave to stay in the green (or brown for you NE folk) water.  First time you do this and the wave stays open, will be a bigger buzz than standing up and will get you fully hooked.   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:10:29 am
I remember thinking I was a natural after standing up during my first lesson, only to later realise I'm crap and I wasn't surfing a board, it was a boat.

Me too.  First surfed in 1976, I was eighteen on a booze fuelled holiday with mates in Newquay. Guy in the hire shop saw us coming and gave us the worlds biggest mal.  Stood up first go.  Didn't mean a damn thing...................  :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:12:39 am

So board was 7'6"then? should be about right for a fit and healthy young male! I did a lot of my learning on a 8ish ft board, and it served me well for a long time.

Go home, regroup, head down again Sept Oct time. Crowds have gone home, air is cooler so water feels warmer, and you get the autumn / early winter swells start to pick up. And remember Hell's mouth and the N Yorkshire coast aren't that far away!

Fit and healthy young male!?  If only......

Already got September in the diary Chris...................  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:16:30 am

Next stage for you, (once you can stand confidentally and straight line it in the whitewater), is taking off as the wave breaks, the 'bottom turn' and 'trimming' across the wave to stay in the green (or brown for you NE folk) water.  First time you do this and the wave stays open, will be a bigger buzz than standing up and will get you fully hooked.

Funny that. Had lessons 5 or 6 years ago and I remember the instructor getting all excited at one point, "Yeah, go John!" or something like that.  I asked him what had been so good about that run and he said, "You surfed blue water man!"

Trouble was, I was concentrating so hard on standing up, I hadn't noticed........  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 29, 2010, 09:22:28 am

Already got September in the diary Chris...................  :thumbsup:

Get down the local leisure centre and start the lenghts then! At first crawl crawl crawl, then work on doing lengths underwater, and sprints.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:59:19 am

Already got September in the diary Chris...................  :thumbsup:

Get down the local leisure centre and start the lenghts then! At first crawl crawl crawl, then work on doing lengths underwater, and sprints.

Local Leisure centre?  Goodness me Christopher, I live in posh Sheffield, I'll be off down my private gym then.....  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 30, 2010, 11:36:16 am
I'm over in Abersoch for a long weekend for Wakestock.  Looks like there'll be waves accompanied by onshore winds so I'll be in the water somewhere with Dave if anyone's around.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 30, 2010, 10:13:37 pm
Enjoy it while you can Ben, things at the Mouth are set to change if certain people get their way.  200-car car park on a SSSI, charges, double yellows, access to Morfa removed, fenced-in path along the eroding cliff top all on the cards....certain people are pretty dead set on this and not overly willing to consider alternative views.  One of the first comments from a member [of the local community] at last nights meeting was 'why are there so many English in-comers here' or something along those lines......

Anyway, enough of that....a chance of some over-knee waves at last!  :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 01, 2010, 11:35:31 am
Enjoy it while you can Ben, things at the Mouth are set to change if certain people get their way. 

this happens across the world over, even in some climbing venues where land owners seen financial benefits from having access to crags.
unless you are prepared to fight it  with 120% commitment, you may as well start getting used to the impending changes. surfing will still be there, it will only come down to whether you can be bothered with the inconvienience of it all.

but at least the numbers should reduce slightly.

I told you there would a carpark coming along the way... :whistle:

i am surprised that they are complaining about english folk coming down, as it adds 'foreign' income into the country. also allows the unemployed drug taking youth a steaady supply of cars to break into to steal shit to feed their habit.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 01, 2010, 12:43:07 pm
They've been complaining about the english forever, and with fair reason - the native culture gets pushed into a minority and is slowly lost. Of course, though, there isn't a sensible solution. You can't stop outsiders buying holiday homes or youngsters leaving for the city. Local poet RS Thomas spent his life bemoaning the decline of his culture and resenting the incomers, but in the end he blamed the natives just as much.

I suspect there is a fair bit of nationalism tied up in these access discussions. Despite the area's AONB status and regional drive for coastal paths etc, fair chunks of the coast still have little access. I'm sure this is partly to keep the english contained, and access limited for those 'in the know'. I doubt this protectionist attitude is unfamiliar to the other group of potential landowners, either - the kind of monied 'everything-has-a-price' english businessmen who the locals resent.

Just have to make sure the quiet majority of folk get to have their say, no doubt harder since the change in government.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 01, 2010, 12:58:42 pm
In my experiance the Lleyn would by the new Knoydart if it wasnt for English people.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 02, 2010, 11:51:22 am
Still pumping down here!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 02, 2010, 11:57:47 am
In my experiance the Lleyn would by the new Knoydart if it wasnt for English people.

What, no surf, full of midgies and boggy?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 02, 2010, 02:08:12 pm

What, no surf, full of midgies and boggy?
[/quote]

exactly
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 02:51:18 pm
What they need to do is lure all the mr johnny b16 7wat in the personailsed range rovers, ive got a yacht and a house by the sea, down to the beach one night and nuec the f'in lot.
Ive spent many a year autumn through spring in abersoch having quiet pints in the sun after a few waves, with very amenable locals, friendly and helpful, chatty.... then rise the summer months and oh my god, welcome to hell. The invasion of cunts. I feel so sorry for these local people down there, theyre famililes are forced out of their own village, local industries are now defunct, earnings from tourism are mainly taken by new businesses run by those who've moved in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 02, 2010, 03:36:49 pm
I don't think it's that Black 'n White Probes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 03:49:28 pm
From the outside it kind off does seem that it is? if im right most of the tourist development down there started through the boat yard, and this brought in the cheshire boat bridgade (for which some of my family were part off!) thus the expansion of the boat yard and town....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 04:10:05 pm
Although, no i guess its not black n white actually, im sure theres more too it. Its sad all the same. Id still like to blow up a few 4x4s tho.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 02, 2010, 10:12:40 pm
I can vouch for most of the cheshire boat brigade being cunts. Most though, some are really sound. The best thing about the cunts is they're very easy to avoid -  never get further than the triangle bounded by The Warren, the Yacht club and Cae du. The rest of Lleyn gets away pretty much unscathed. Avoid the school holidays and its a cunt-free zone.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 09, 2010, 07:07:34 am
Crazy sessions... The last four weeks has been surfable every day, some classic sessions ant some of the best breaks in the South West,
Wrestles, Lynmouth, Sennen, Croyde.... All have come through with some great out of season swells(?)... something to do with a shifting Gulf Stream? I thinks it's going to be a long summer...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 09, 2010, 09:28:16 am
I thinks it's going to be a long summer...

Time for a trip south i think!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 10, 2010, 10:43:48 am
Has been pumping, unfortunately I will probably be out of the water for 6 weeks.  Fractured cheek bone in a wipe-out at Croyde on Thursday! :'(

I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol!   :spank:

Question: How come with all your classic spots up (oop) North East everyone goes ballistic if you so much has hint as to their location, where as similar spots down this way seem to be mentioned without folk batting an eye lid?

Is it that Northern folk are grumpy/ scarey/ hard and therefore everyone's too scared to talk? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 10, 2010, 11:06:32 am
because when they are firing, that crap down south doesn't come close to being as good.
plus northerners hate you soft as shite southerners (so i've been told  ;) )

the fractured cheek bone sounds painful, good luck on that.

how come you cant go in the water? is it close to the socket as well?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 10, 2010, 02:02:52 pm
Quote
everyone goes ballistic if you so much has hint as to their location

I can't get my head round this protectionism bullshit at all. Strange how surfing seems to cultivate all these petty egos.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 10, 2010, 02:06:04 pm
I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol!   :spank:

Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 11, 2010, 05:43:31 am
I can't get my head round this protectionism bullshit at all. Strange how surfing seems to cultivate all these petty egos.

imagine what Puttrell would do if he went out to Stanage nowdays....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on July 11, 2010, 09:47:05 am
I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol!   :spank:

Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?

well exactly. It's in every surfing guide and well known by anyone that surfs regularly in the SW. It is ridiculously busy down here at the moment though, last week I counted 52 people in at Gwithian on an onshore 1-2ft day and I was the sole boulderer..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 11, 2010, 11:23:46 am
Reply to Johnny Brown

It really is not petty egos, alot of these secret / little known spots work on a hand full of days a year, some of us organise and re organise our lives around these waves breaking, spend time learning when and how they work, tides, swell winds etc and so rightly get pissed off when Magic seaweed or other forums put up pics or details of these waves and when you do get there there are van loads of people already there.
A lot of the spots i surf cant take more than 6-8 people even if everyone is orderly so 2 vans of 4 turning up on top of the usual crowd reduces your wave count by 50-60% unless you start hassling, therfore making the session far less enjoyable than normal.

I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 11, 2010, 12:39:35 pm
Quote
how come you cant go in the water? is it close to the socket as well?
It's just the arch but quite a bad fracture.  Can't risk pushing it back in once the fracture is fixed, no plates no wires you see...

Quote
Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?
Don't think any locals had a say in this, imagine if it happened to your favourite 'secret' break, it was a secret once upon a time..

Quote
It is ridiculously busy down here at the moment though, last week I counted 52 people in at Gwithian
Lynmouth is getting ridiculous at times, particularly weekends and, as GME points out for his end of the country, there are far too many folk without the required skills, respect for locals or manners
turning up. 

C****n Bay,  S******s, C***s, R******* Bay, Sk*********e, S***h G***, B***k M*****s, H***** Reef..

Not swear words, fill the gaps, all 'secret' spots on the NE which are ALL in surf guides which I'm sure GME amongst others would appreciate people not naming.

On another tip, by all accounts Ireland is the place to surf, apparently you'll end up leaving the water with new friends rather than enemies over there.  Maybe we could all do with a little more of this attitude in our lives?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 11, 2010, 02:32:47 pm
Reply to Johnny Brown


I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.

You forgot to mention that in the process they use steel brushes to clean the holds and never clean their boots before trying the problem.

the other suitable comparison is you go to ravens tor after sceretly training your crack off for the last 18months dieting and all other anti social behaviour required to do Hubble. only to find some group of 5 blokes from Spain who all climb around 7a with their draws on the route all day on the best conditions for the year. and when you finally get a go on it at the end of the day, its covered in 1ft tick marks, and the holds are greasy as a chipper.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 11, 2010, 02:41:34 pm
granticus, theres a kneelo who surfs at MY LOCAL break, and he has had major facial surgery (as aresult of getting clobbered in the melon by a mal).
he wears a grilled gath helmut a good tony grieg impersonation. as stupid as it may look, atleast he gets to surf still.

maybe worth investigating, it will come in handy later on at places like Thruso East when its solid, indo, el quemao and chopes and probably lynmouth based on the crowds reported!!!


http://www.bossbi.com/boards/gath/gath.php (http://www.bossbi.com/boards/gath/gath.php)

get well soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 11, 2010, 07:06:26 pm
JB - From page 32 on this thread....

OK let's try and put a few things to bed.

There is localism in surfing.  "You can't surf here, get the f*ck out of the water, go home". BAD, fact, period.  No one likes that stuff, there's no room for it in the sport or the culture.  We see very little of it in the UK thankfully and on the rare occaisions it does happen it's usually just ego stroking and can just be ignored.

Then there's fustration in the water or behaviour that's frowned upon that isn't as obvious.  This does need acknowledging and exploring a little because what sometimes gets interpreted as 'localism' is actually a genuine and legitimate reaction to an infraction of some of the unwritten and not-so-obvious rules of surfing.  As illustration....

Getting in the way - Paddling out to a peak and sitting on the inside in front of the take off or further down the line.  This happens to everyone of course but there are repeat offenders.

Pulling out of a takeoff on a wave that's well makeable - A relative beginner paddles for a wave who's got priority and just doesn't go, usually happens on slightly bigger days when commitment is needed.  If you are paddling, go for it and don't pull back as soon as it looks scary.

Paddling to the peak out of turn - Another common mistake, especially made by the newly competent surfer who's mastered the art of catching most waves and turning.  Catch a wave, ride it well, all flushed with excitement and paddle enthusiastically straight out to the peak for the next one. Whoops.  Should've have sat on the inside a while and let the others in the pack take their waves.  Climbers who have turned to surfing are notorious for this behaviour I think because of an ingrained tick mentality.  We climbers have a bad rep in North Wales because of this...

These are all the equivalent of not cleaning boots, big tick marks, trying stuff that's way too hard, top roping hard sport routes on a tight rope and saying 'I did all the moves on x', dabs, standing on the matts close to the wall, using feet on a campus board.  All the stuff we laugh about on here and sometimes turn away sn**gering about at the crag.  That we then read about on the web when 'punters' talk about their visit to Malham, The Tor or the Plantation and say 'there were some locals who weren't very friendly'.

I've just re-read some of what I wrote and I probably sound like a right twat but I've sat in the water in North Wales, Yorkshire, Scotland, Indo, Spain and the Canaries with climbers turned surfers who have managed to rub people up without realising - me included when I first started out. 

 :)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 11, 2010, 08:03:19 pm
Yeah, I appreciate all that, its stuff like this I don't get:

Quote
I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.

What nonsense. The rock belongs to everyone, I don't resent crags being busy - ever. If I want a quiet day out, I go somewhere that requires a bit of effort to get too. Or by arranging my life around my sport, I can enjoy mint conditions alone if I want to. That's what local knowledge means to me - not secrets. I'm not convinced surfing is so different.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on July 11, 2010, 09:46:21 pm
That's what local knowledge means to me - not secrets. I'm not convinced surfing is so different.
exactly - if you're a local who has learnt the vagaries of a particular break, its banks, the tides, the rips, etc. then you'll be out there having a top session when magicseaweed gave it 1* and everyone else stayed at home. As with climbing, there are plenty of quiet spots if you're happy to walk 10-15mins from the car.

I do however agree with the point made above that people not respecting the unspoken rules can be interpreted as localism
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 01:21:07 pm
I am really fortunate to have been given the tour of spots around the SW and surf with "the local crew". Lynmouth has traffic, there was only four out, bang on the low... Overhead!!! The charts reflected the possibility... And the journey paid off, big time. The other breaks in the area toward Westward Ho were working... I went with PM... Respected big wave surfer and Devon local... He has tuned me to a few breaks that are "secret". Surfing in the UK is at boiling point with regards to traffic, and turning up to Wrestles with a ten foot tripple stringer, the vibe is on you... I am not intimidated by localism! I fucking killed that break... Fuck you lot... It's mine too!
Marocco had this problem... French guys telling Kamal to"fuck off", you can not surf here at Anchors... Kamal was born there... He thought it halarious. Again, we got stuck in and fucked them off!
I have been really lucky with some off the guys I have met... And lucky to have surfedamy breaks solo... Fuck Localism! Just rip!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 01:25:44 pm
reply to Johnny Brown.

Its not nonsense at all.

I am not claiming  any rights to anything, rock or wave and have done exactly what you say you would do. ie walk further and seek out solitude somewhere else. I have done my research and walked the coast checking every little nook and cranny, paddling out on my own to spots i have never seen surfed not knowing if they have been surfed or are surfable.

The handfull of locals where i live are more than friendly, sharing our flasks and inviting people back to our houses for a brew on a freezing cold day in Feb.

The problem is not that some of these people then go back and tell one or two mates who come back with them next time. The problem is now that they go on the internet and tell a few thousand people so the next swell the line up now has 20 extra surfers. This does happen and happens all the time. Waves i have found and surfed on my own or with 2 or 3 mates for the last few years are now getting 15-20 people on them, all since photos appeared in magazines and on MSW. And these are the types of waves that have a take off area about 10 foot square so 10 is a lot of people. Iguess this number of people will seem like nothing compared with the masses of people in the water in devon and cornwall but to us its a crowd.

Before you know it suddenly the locals are a set of grumpy bastards who might not share there coffee with you. In a few years time this is now pissed off rather than grumpy etc etc.

The UK has some amazing waves but not very many so unlike with climbing the options of going to another wave of a similar quality are nil. The waves i surf are like stanage on a crisp Feb day and the options to go elsewhere as you suggest are like minus ten on a humid august one.

That's why we like to keep things secret.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 01:26:57 pm
idol eyes



Please stay down south
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 12, 2010, 01:49:35 pm
gme, you aren't making a convincing argument at all, you just sound like a selfish dog in the manger. I earned my climbing knowledge the hard way too, but the youths coming through have the net. Its not going away, and I doubt surfing is going to get less popular. Snarling at people with the wrong accent doesn't strike me as a great way of dealing with it.

As a visiting surfer, how the fuck am I supposed to recognise a local anyway? Are they the miserable fuckers?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 01:51:50 pm
Oh, I really like surfing brown shite too! Ok... I will do as you say! Pm me you number and address. Wanker!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 02:01:51 pm
JB, don't even listen to this... The East Coast has some great breaks, and some good surfers, it also has a trend of Localism. I resent this... As it is usually issued by prats who want to enhance their surfing with some ego... It's a self issued level of authority! It stinks! Surfing for me is about getting away from idiots...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 03:16:13 pm
Fuck me, now i am getting acused of being a wanker and yet i have not once been involved in any localism, deliberatly dropped in, snaked or growled at anyone.

As i said in my post i, and the other local surfers, are a really friendly bunch as anyone who has been up here will testify to. What i was trying to say that i dont think localism issues are down to egos at all but can see how people get pissed off.

I was also trying to say that its the behavior of the people who visit some of the out of the way places that can make very friendly locals not so friendly so i can understand how things can get a bit heated when it gets very crowded.

sorry i ever spoke.

And as for you mr King, be careful who you call a wanker, i lived in sheff for 15 years, know eactly who you are as you know me, and also know a lot of your new bunch of friends in the SW

My retort was based on the fact that you seemed to suggest you would basically ignore any "locals" and paddle out on your oil tanker (sounds like you would get two good boards out of that blank)to take any waves you wanted. pretty much like most beaches in the SW

Cant ever remember anyone saying, leave only footprints, take nothing but pictures then post them all over magic seaweed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 12, 2010, 03:26:02 pm
Quote
I was also trying to say that its the behavior of the people who visit some of the out of the way places

To be fair, you didn't actually say that. You said that the presence of a crowd alone was enough to piss off locals, and that it was understandable. Its not. They are there for the same reason as you, but you resent them because you assume they found the break on the net, and not by hard work. That might be considered normal in surfing, but it doesn't make it right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 04:02:44 pm
I do not know who you are... And don't care. Never tell me where I can and can not go! I am not the sort of person who obeys the likes of you. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 04:07:52 pm
Oh... And longboards have been around alot longer than short boards.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 04:27:01 pm
i fucking hate chat rooms.

JB i did say trying!!! to say.

Idol eyes- i have never asked anyone to obey me, told anyone where they could surf or not surf or would i do so.

I have never been or intend to be " a local" in the way you are thinking of locals. but your attitude must make you very welcome where ever you go so have fun.

And as an aside the donkey was used as a mode of transport before the car but you dont see many people using them anymore.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 05:02:42 pm
I have surfed in a few different countries. In Norway, the locals are trying to gather intrest in surfing the Stavanger region. In Mexico people are totally tranquillo about visitors, the Aussie, Yank attitude is totally localised. I can appreciate the principals of all these, but adopt none... I belive that we all have a right to experience the true natural wonders of the Ocean, Rock and Snow enviroment. For example, I no longer climb in the peak because of crowds and noise levels, this is my decision based upon the fact that I had it to myself and a few mates for years, and wanted to leave it as I found it! My problem... My solution! Surfings the same... There are genuine crowd problems at my home breaks, I enjoy the fact that the slightest change in swell/wind direction will bring a sleeping reef to light for an hour or two. The moaning about "local" breaks being infiltrated by visitors... Brings me to the fact that some one who surfs a break in south Devon for years and complains about being local... Will then bear the right to go on a round the world ticket... Ripping all the great breaks and ignoring locals rights to their own break... Tell me this does not happen!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on July 12, 2010, 05:35:21 pm
and on another subject...cool 360 degree video of Teahupoo to play with...
http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink companysurfing.com/videos/immersive/ (http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink companysurfing.com/videos/immersive/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 10:13:31 pm
Ps... Sorry! Really bad moon this morning... Didn't mean it! I ment to say simply... No body owns nature! And there are no ristrictions in these activities... Bustin down the door!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2010, 10:00:57 am
What a hoo ha about someone mentioning probaby the best know left hand point in the country on a climbing forum.

Localism sucks, but you can see where people are coming from with it. Luckily none of that up here, provided you don't want to try and surf Broch town beach on a good day, and your family haven't lived there for at least 3 generations :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 13, 2010, 10:17:06 am
 :o  didn't mean to start a SW vs. NE war of words...  Just trying to highlight that there seems to be a marked difference in attitude and localism from one place to another, whilst having a whinge about that lurvely Exmoor left being crowded out. 

Watched Dog Town and the Z-Boys last night, now those boys took localism to a whole other level.  Chucking rocks, lumps of metal and glass at visiting surfers, dishing out beatings etc. etc.  Hate to see things reach this level but it appears some peeps in the UK think it's OK to damage vehicles, threaten and use violence to protect 'their' waves.

I know if anyone paddles out at the places I surf regularly that I will be friendly towards them.  I hope I would experience the same wherever I turn up and surf.  Certainly had a good experience in Lanza which has a reputation for shitty locals and I hope the same would be the case in the NE (although I fear it may not!).  But I guess if you create enough horror stories and generate an atmosphere of intollerance it keeps the crowds away which is what people want.  Personally, I reckon I'll be heading to Ireland in preference to the NE because of my perception of the scene up there.  I'd rather surf good waves with friendly people than good waves with an ugly vibe in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2010, 10:33:33 am
Personally, I reckon I'll be heading to Ireland in preference to the NE because of my perception of the scene up there. 

Clearly their plan is working then! I would rather hit up the Hebs than Ireland.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on July 13, 2010, 11:24:32 am
Interesting!  As an absolutely surfing ingenue, thanks for the etiquette pointers.  I guess for learners like me it's the apparently obvious stuff like hanging around inside and getting in everybody's way that is the killer.  Generally it's not through choice that I end up in that position, I'm justed fucked and need a rest  :spank:

Note to self:  Must get fitter  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 13, 2010, 11:35:30 am
Guess what... Two foot and super clean again. Magic seaweed is incorrect!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2010, 11:50:49 am
Magic seaweed is incorrect!

You sound surprised!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 13, 2010, 05:57:57 pm
Just seen foundry Rob @ Tolcarne... Fistral was perfect!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 13, 2010, 09:17:49 pm
Disclaimer: I'm not condoning or encouraging localism.

I think there's trouble in trying to compare climbing with surfing in that the resources available to the former are far greater and available through a much wider variety of conditions and as a result can tolerate larger numbers of participants without it feeling overcrowded.

There are several breaks I can think of that only work on say 30 (maybe 50 if I'm being really generous) days a year and usually only for a window of 4 hours either side of high or low tide. Many only work far less than that.  If we have a swell at a 10 second period with 7 waves a set we are going to see a mean of 5 to 7 waves every 7 to 12 minutes so a maximum of 30 to 35 waves an hour that could be ridden meaning an absolute maximum of 100 to 150 waves in a single day that could be surfed.  I think I'm being generous with numbers here without taking into account the limitations of daylight and water temperature.

Now on the Harmers Wood thread, JB quite rightly points out the benefits of leaving problems undocumented at certain bouldering crags in order to encourage and promote the value of an exploratory approach.  My personal opinion is that there are certain areas of the UK coastline that are comparable to entire crags with specific breaks the equivalent of individual problems or routes and as such should not be documented to the nth degree nor plastered over the internet.

We use the term Esoteric often in climbing to denote a particular crag that will yield its value and secrets to those prepared to put the effort in and sacrifice an easy fix for a reward.  Usually this takes time, experience and effort to discover and it's no coincidence that we use occult terminology to describe the place and experience.

From Wikipedia (yes I'm fully aware of the irony) "Esoteric knowledge, in the dictionary (non-scholarly) sense, is thus that which is available only to a narrow circle of "enlightened", "initiated", or specially educated people.[2] Esoteric items may be known as esoterica.[3] In contrast, exoteric knowledge is knowledge that is well-known or public, or perceived as informally canonic in society at large.

Finally, it can be noted that esotericism, beside its scholarly and dictionary definitions, can be used in a loose, popular sense: not in order to denote e.g. mystical knowledge or practice, but rather informally to mean any perception or knowledge that is for the advanced individual such as theoretical physics, or that pertains to the minutiae of a particular discipline, such as "esoteric" baseball statistics.
"

So in the same way that the specific problems of Harmers Wood, The Grinah Stones and other locations should remain undocumented to reward the initiates, so should specific breaks. Perhaps the issue is one of understanding scale relative to available resources and experience?

I have no problem with sections of the Welsh, Cornish, Scottish, English and Irish coastline being described as offering considerable possibilities of surf for those of an exploratory bent but I do have an issue with specific spots being documented to the finest detail including pictures/video and conditions reports being posted all over Magic Seaweed and other internet forums.

And there endeth the chin stroking...  :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 14, 2010, 11:01:51 am
Quote
I have no problem with sections of the Welsh, Cornish, Scottish, English and Irish coastline being described as offering considerable possibilities of surf for those of an exploratory bent but I do have an issue with specific spots being documented to the finest detail including pictures/video and conditions reports being posted all over Magic Seaweed and other internet forums.

 :agree: Once upon a time Exmoor was in this category before folks started blabbin about it, interestingly in a recent MSW article about Luke Steadman's visit to Damian Hirst's palace in N Devon, there was a photo of the left from above and the spot wasn't named in fact a smoke screen was put up.  This is what the majority of ND surfer's would request and I don't think it's unreasonable to make people do some work to find a place. 

People are gonna start homing in on these N Wales spots soon enough if photos like this keep appearing on MSW.

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/172507.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 11:16:52 am
Let's face it, finding breaks somewhere like N Devon isn't exactly rocket science. On a big swell day just avoid the usual honeypots, and instead drive along the coastal road, stop at various points and look. Hey presto, what's that I can see between the trees? You don't even have to get out the car or walk any distance.

Lynmouth and many N Devon spots Like P****** W*** were known about years before the internet became a primary source of information. And with Googlemaps it's even easier.

Any exposed coastline is going to have waves of one sort or another, just takes a few hours to go out and find them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 11:20:00 am
Nice pic!

I'm not really qualified to comment on any of this, being deeply shit at surfing, but I don't see any problems with what FD suggests.

The problem is with the aggro I might encounter - I still don't get how anyone identifies a local to give them priority, or how a local spots who has found the break by fair means or internet. In reality these good intentions of maintaining esoterica just turn into cliquey bullshit - I really can't get my head round locals resenting new faces at a break, or threats issued on the net over mention of  name or posting of a photo. The modern age means info will get out anyway, but this attitude seems accepted as fine in surfing. As Chris said, a beach is a lot easier to spot on a map than a crag, the best you can hope is the herd will stick to the famous spots and the best 'secret' spots are far from a road.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 11:26:53 am
I personally think the reality of localism is nowhere near as bad as the reputation. You hear all these rumours of aggression and nasty shit going on, but in reality I have encountered very little of it. If you travel in a small group (3 at most) and don't all paddle out together, smile and are friendly, don't hang out in your little huddle, and are respectful of other people's wave count and share a bit of stoke, you are unlikely to come across any of this so called aggro, unless you come across the local nutjob.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 11:37:59 am
That's good to know. I tend to avoid other surfers, mainly because I'm embarrassingly shit and spend most of the time trapped inside, but also in case I piss them off, due to the aforementioned, and not being local enough. An aussie mate gave up surfing due to violent localism - wasn't even allowed on his local break - so maybe I've got a bad impression.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 14, 2010, 11:48:23 am
What Chris said.

JB - Don't try and avoid other surfers, 99% are absolutely fine.  Your mate in Aus is unlucky.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 14, 2010, 12:19:52 pm
I have only come across aggro once in the UK and it was very out of order, however the guy in question is just a dick who i think would look for a fight at church on a sunday morning, so hardly a typical surfer. So i think you are very unlikely to come across it here unless you act like a dick.

I have surfed every coast in the UK and ireland that has surf worth noting without issue. I am not saying i have been welcomed with open arms at every spot (and would not expect to) but i have not come across what you would call hostile locals.

I have also travelled a lot all over the world surfing and only encountered problems in Spain where in one instance (with FD actually) we were told that if we were not from Asturias to get the fuck out of the water. We didn't and nothing happened.

So the likely hood of you coming across any problems are pretty slim.

However i do find it weird that you think all surfers should be over the moon and delighted to see car loads of other surfers turning up at there quiet waves, waves that (following your advice) they have walked further and gone round new bends to find solitude away from the crowds.

As waves get busy the ethics of waiting your turn and politely offering waves to each other goes out of the way. Its a mathematical fact, as FD tried to prove, that the more people the less waves there are per person, so as it gets busy people will start to hassle to make sure they get there share. This is competition not localism.

Granaticus

The east coast is not localised at all if you play the game right. Van loads of pasties hitting up the media slut left hander every time it works have maybe soured the locals a bit, but not to an agressive level.

Anytime you want to come up i will be happy to show you around as i am sure you would keep the info to yourself and not post it all over MSW. Hopefully you could return the favour when i am occasionally down your end of the country.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 12:31:04 pm
Your mate in Aus is unlucky.

And without knowing your mate, you have wonder if behind every story lies a story.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 12:36:33 pm
Quote
However i do find it weird that you think all surfers should be over the moon and delighted to see car loads of other surfers turning up at there quiet waves

You don't need to be delighted, just don't be miserable. If you were surly to me at the Plantation I'd assume you were a wanker - no matter how busy it was. I can't see a difference here. And I'd never be so arrogant as to call somewhere 'mine', even though even Ron says it is.

Quote
without knowing your mate

One of the nicest guys I've ever met.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 14, 2010, 12:56:03 pm
But if the fact that the number of people at stanage was directly impacting on how much fun you were having i cant believe that you would not be pissed off.

If not then you are lucky to be able to keep a happy mind set through anything, as i certainly cant.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 14, 2010, 12:57:46 pm
But if the fact that the number of people at stanage was directly impacting on how much fun you were having i cant believe that you would not be pissed off.

If not then you are lucky to be able to keep a happy mind set through anything, as i certainly cant.

Answered further above, he'd not be pissed off, but would instead go somewhere else and return to Stanage at a time when its quiet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 01:02:20 pm
Actually I'm pretty well noted as a misery. But one thing that does not, and will not ever, get me down is meeting people enjoying the outdoors for the same reasons that I am. Its such a life-enriching thing it genuinely makes me happy to see folk doing it. You've had your chance on these breaks in the past, isn't it a bit unfair to resent others doing the same?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 01:05:50 pm
One of the nicest guys I've ever met.

I'm sure he is, but anyone can be a victim of circumstance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 14, 2010, 01:12:06 pm
quote.. People are gonna start homing in on these N Wales spots soon enough if photos like this keep appearing on MSW.

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/172507.jpg)
[/quote]


If thats where i think it is, it doesnt matter as it only looks like that once a year anyway.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 14, 2010, 01:12:25 pm
Quote
The east coast is not localised at all if you play the game right. Van loads of pasties hitting up the media slut left hander every time it works have maybe soured the locals a bit, but not to an agressive level.

Anytime you want to come up i will be happy to show you around as i am sure you would keep the info to yourself and not post it all over MSW. Hopefully you could return the favour when i am occasionally down your end of the country.
:great: No troublems, would happily return the favour and happy to show any folk around.

It can be disheartening to turn up somewhere and find it swarming with people but I guess it makes it more special when you get there and find it firing & empty. 

JB don't worry too much about the aggro you might encounter.  I began surfing regularly 6 years ago when I moved SW.  I have surfed/paddled out alone for the majority of that time and I was a complete at utter KOOK at the beginning.  Over these years I have been shouted at, stared down and made a lot of stupid mistakes which was all part of the learning experience.  Sometimes eating a little humble pie and realising what a twat you're being is healthy.  So 6 years down the line, I sometimes paddle out with a friend or 2 and after a lot of persistence, I don't drop in on people deliberately or by accident, I don't ditch my board when a wall of white water is coming at me, I don't snake, I know a lot friends in the water (some of whom gave me grief when I started out), I am respected by them, I am competetive in the water and I can surf to a reasonable standard.  I love to surf, I hate to see any hostility on the land or in the sea. 

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 01:17:00 pm
Quote
anyone can be a victim of circumstance.

Hmmm, not sure I follow you there.

Anyway, if nothing else I've got a much better understanding of localism from this (as a seperate issue form behaviour in the water). Bullshit or not, its obviously pretty deeply rooted in surfing's culture.

Good to see the guy who posted that pic has the signature 'fuck localism, teach respect'. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 14, 2010, 01:52:42 pm
usually on most matters like this i'd be taking the piss and saying shit to wind people up.

however, not this time.

after 31 years of surfing, i believe that there is a gross mis understanding of localism, which some people have already hinted at earlier in thread.

 i have realised the surfing community and any surf session can be broken down into differing types of surfers and attitudes.

at it is here where the term localism gets used as a term to cover any form of negative behaviour of surfing.

guys who surf a break regularly tend to regard themselves as locals to the break or call themselves regulars, most of which generally dont live locally. locals / regulars usually know every one in the line up by first name and they know their name. these guys generally get a lion share of the sets, especially on the reef/point breaks. within the regulars/ locals there is unwritten pecking order on who gets the waves.

now when other surfers come and surf these breaks obviously they get put at the bottom of that pecking order. as the crowd builds, less waves get ridden and as a result people get pissed off. and thats when the rules of ettiquete get bend or thrown aside.
those at out of the top of the pecking order start getting annoyed, this can be regulars and also non regulars.
throw in a couple of visiting surfers who are of a good standard, which generally come in two forms;
1. those whho realise they are on a trip and time is limited, so they go straight to the best take spot and hassle and get wave after wave. that fat shit from wales who makes boards is notorious for this.
2. then we have those who paddle to the fringe of the peak / pack and gauge the crwod standard  / vibe and slowly ease their wave count and quality. generally show casing their talent when some one goes over the falls and they whip around and free fall efortlessly into a barrel or come off the bottom and go beyond vertical off the top. point proven, and then they get given some freindly hoots from all and sundry.

now we have instant access to interent and people now feel like spreading the stoke or gloating their stoke by putting images / videos of the waves they have had. this unfortunately is how it will be from now on. rightly or wrongly we will just have to get used to it.


people nows days want to be spoon fed with information. hance the popularity and success of MSW and other surf sites. add to this the speed of our lifestyles and rapidly depletetin free time, when we want to surf we want good waves and we'll travell to get them. the UK is a very small place, and driving from one side to the other can be done overnight.

dissapointment is the cause for negative behviour in the surf, not localism


people get angry, annoyed, nasty, rude in the water because the surf is panning out as they liked. and its that disspointment that causes the problem. we want / expect too much from our surf now days (as with everything else). i'll be honest and say i used to be very bad at this. as FD and GME will agree.

but when i find the session going pear shaped i do three things which nowdays makes me enjoy the session far more and washes away the dissapointment and effects of the shit behaviour of others.
these are;
1. one good turn will consitute a good surf
2. when you're getting pissed off, be grateful that you managed to get in. because there is atleast 100 other people who have missed out
3. smile and say hello to evryone, hoot people on sets / good turns and always offer beginners advise otr a friendly word of encouragement. we were all there once.



as a tip from an old shit like me, if your not in sync with the oceans. look at your watch and think that you have just got out. note the time, and you will get a wave within the next 5 - 10mins. by resetting the time mentally the previous 20 -30mins that felt like hours will be regarded as another session


if you do these 3 things in every session you'll get more out of your surfing without having done much.

if people are putting images on the internet, fuckem, dont let it get to you. theres nothing you can do about, just do the 3 things above and you'll have a great session.

no one will drop in you or snake you if your nice in the water.

being pissed off / dissapointed is not localism.


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 02:56:57 pm
that fat shit from wales who makes boards.

LOL. If you carry on posting sensible stuff like this you may get dangerously close to some more wad points.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 14, 2010, 03:25:18 pm
may i add that it is hard to ignore fuckwits when things aren't going as you planned.

and then there are some people in the water  who really do need an enema of the brain
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 14, 2010, 04:24:48 pm
Israeli surfers in Sri Lanka...
Total agro????
It's totally going of is nut down here!!!
Massive swell window!
All the so called secret spots up north Devon way are going to be on?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 04:29:19 pm
Careful what you say IE. There must be all of a dozen surfers who regularly read this forum, of which maybe 3 can get to N Devon Coast, you being one of them. So you could drastically reduce your wave count by posting that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 14, 2010, 07:30:03 pm
Sad init!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 14, 2010, 09:04:53 pm
Lovely stuff Oldfella... I guess we all do spit the dummy a little when the regular's pecking order gets disrupted :guilty:

Quote
All the so called secret spots up north Devon way are going to be on?

There'll be one less pissed off North Devoner in the water this week, so I say go wild  :thumbsup:

Charts are off the dial, I was thinking some particular North Kernow breaks somewhere between Boscastle and Widemouth would be good.  Wind is looking a bit too SW for some spots but other nooks and crannies will be splendid.  I will be in the O R tommorow morning and then mostly following the live webcast from J-Bay.  Looking forward to getting back on it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 14, 2010, 09:26:21 pm
Flat with a chance of a ripple over here. Not fussed at the minute as summer is usually shite.
Off to Ireland with family in two weeks and might get down sw before then as I have meetings in Wiltshire.
You southern boys seem to e having a good year. It was our turn last summer.
Funny hanging around with climbers still   Last year was constant moaning about all the rain but I was as happy as a pig in shit as every low brought swell.
This year seems like it could be a vintage climbing summer but flat east coast. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 15, 2010, 07:55:33 am
want to see some bullshit waves.
for all you natural footers, start belting off over perfect 4ft J Bay.
http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay10//live/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay10//live/)

Yeeewwwwwwwww  :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 15, 2010, 09:15:53 am
Already the best comp this year, perfect perfect righthanders, best surfers in the world.

What more could anyone want.

Other than it to be going the other way obviously.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 09:24:57 am
goofy wierdos.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 15, 2010, 10:56:15 am
Already the best comp this year, perfect perfect righthanders, best surfers in the world.

What more could anyone want.

Other than it to be going the other way obviously.

that is G Land my friend, and we'll be there next year  :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesD on July 15, 2010, 11:36:35 am
This thread has inspired me to give surfing a go, after thinking about it for many years, booking up shortly at the quiksilver surf school for a lesson and a days gear hire with the missus and friends in 2 weeks, woohoo  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 11:56:15 am
Get in the pool and do some lengths, now!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesD on July 15, 2010, 12:10:17 pm
Haha I just spent 12 days in Croatia swimming every single day for like 3/4 hours plus, but don't worry...i'm gonna start working on my front crawl sprints and get a shedload of lengths in between now and then, I want to get the most out of the day ;D
Really excited, i've skated a bit in the past, am a really experienced snowboarder, and can skimboard a bit, so i'm hoping these things will help with the balance etc.
Actually I might take the skimboard for a laugh later on lol....if I can still stand/walk/summon up the energy afterwards.
I saw a zap skimboard demo once out in portugal, it was amaaaaaaaaaaazing, Steve boomhower is ridiculous.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 12:22:59 pm
boomhower is ridiculous.

I know, you can't understand a word he says.

(http://www.wvah.com/programs/kingofthehill/boomhauer.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 03:53:43 pm
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?

http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 15, 2010, 03:55:05 pm
Yikes. Live stream of the comp has just died here. Is it working elsewhere?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 03:58:44 pm
Don't think so, mate just email me bitching about the same problem.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 15, 2010, 05:36:43 pm
Face is fixed and I can now chew, albeit with a little pain!! :thumbsup:
I am now sporting a sort of semi-undercut hairstyle on one side with half a side burn (the lower half) remaining, could catch on? :thumbsup: (Why they didn't shave the whole lot off I don't know)
Can I watch the pros ripping it up in perfect J-Bay whilst I recover, can I fook :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesD on July 15, 2010, 05:39:33 pm
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?

http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)

Urgh, I really regret clicking through, that's a gnarly wound.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 15, 2010, 05:46:17 pm
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?

http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)

Urgh, I really regret clicking through, that's a gnarly wound.

Actually made me feel a little better about my little mishap last week, very similar circumstances and reassuring for my confidence to see that it can happen to the best. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 15, 2010, 08:19:09 pm
Double overhead... Offshore... Krankin!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lund on July 19, 2010, 09:32:24 pm
No idea if this has been posted on here before.  Had a quick look, but couldn't find any evidence.

Verizon Wireless Wipeout of the Year Nominees - Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hszs-3xZ5lQ&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 19, 2010, 10:46:48 pm
 :spank:

Seen it before Lund.. but don't think anyone posted here.  Most entertaining is the last one, 1st 2 at 'Jaws' look brutal but at least they both get the opportunity to take a gasp of air on the way over the falls.  Whoever said 'the safest place is in barrel' may have to reconsider, probably better than taking any of those lips on the head though...

Weather sucks, surf is up, I think I'm gonna have to get back in the water tommorow.   ;) 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on July 20, 2010, 09:58:39 am
Ouch.  The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2010, 10:18:47 am
I think that proves you are sane.

Some good stories around the wave, esp Jeff Clark surfing it alone for 15 years http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mavericks_(location) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mavericks_(location))
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 20, 2010, 10:24:47 am
Ouch.  The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me.

Check out Powers of Three (https://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three) about three mates surfing some of the huge waves on the West coast of Eire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on July 20, 2010, 10:37:24 am
Ouch.  The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me.

Check out Powers of Three (https://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three) about three mates surfing some of the huge waves on the West coast of Eire.

Seen it slackers  :thumbsup:  one of my fav surf films.  Really engaging characters and some insane surfing  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2010, 12:13:08 pm
Another two days of perfect surf down here... Think we have got a week off after noon tomorrow! It's been an unbeliveable summer... I think Autumn is going to be epic.
Surfed a secret wedge mid tide on the push yesterday... Total shack attack! Knee paddleing, and popping up as I cross step... And getting these insane air drops directly into the pocket, and fully getting barrelled...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2010, 12:14:39 pm
....yeeeeeeooooow!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 20, 2010, 12:19:55 pm
Surfed a secret wedge mid tide on the push yesterday...

Share the knowledge then  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2010, 09:46:48 pm
It's between Woolacoombe and Sennen...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 21, 2010, 09:49:20 pm
It's between Woolacoombe and Sennen...

Yeah.. I think I know the spot. :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 21, 2010, 10:36:14 pm
Just off to Thurso area for 4 days. Anyone got any tips on good places other than the obvious. Any must see's up there. Climbing?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 22, 2010, 08:54:31 am
Just stick to the main spots in the guide. If you dont want to just use your nose. Watch what you are doing though as its a BIG place up there with a BIG sea BIG rips and BIG seals. Off the beaten track you will be on your own.

Looks like a bit of swell for you but to much west in it to get the main event working. head west to the beaches as they pick up more swell.

For camping i usually stop at torrisdale if out west, posably the best camping spot on the planet. Or point of ness. I always try to avoid stopping in the yard at TE as its a shit tip and hardly what you drive up there for.

Skinadis nightclub will put a smile on your face. Smoked salmon from the fishmongers at the end of the pier in thurso is to die for.
Mussels of the rocks at low tide at torrisdale plus a sea trout from the river, pretty easy to catch on a spinning rod and fishing is free from the sea to the first bridge upriver on any of the rivers.


No climbing up there that i have seen but some further west and south. A bit of sports climbing on conglomerate i believe around Tain, but i dont know the details.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2010, 08:58:24 am
Thanks for that. Some good knowledge. How shallow is TE, its been a while since i surfed regularly.  :'( MS is predicting overhead for Sunday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 09:11:25 am
If you don't fancy TE there are loads of great beachies along that coast, culminating in the beatiful one with the long walk. Are planning A9 there and back?

There is some great trad climbing off the A9 at Latheronwheel and Mid Clyth, although Mid Clyth is best avoided if there is a big sea.

If you head down the west coast on the way back you can't throw a stick without hitting a good crag, Sheigra, Inverpolly, Reiff, Stac Pollaidh, etc.

Have a look in the UKC database, SMC Nothern Highland North, or the Gary Latter Guide.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2010, 09:16:55 am
Reiff

I wasn't that moved by Reiff i have to say. Mainly be riding and surfing, so not too much of an issue. May go over to the beautiful place with the long walk.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 22, 2010, 09:22:58 am
When its big its fine and not too shallow. When its small its shallow, plenty of split heads on the inside. I good friend of mine ended up over night with concussion in wick hospital on a two foot day, still has the scars to prove it.

MSW will be wrong, if your specifically going for TE then re plan your trip, the swell is too west. It may just be surfable on one day but very small.

Dispite what everyone thinks the north coast is very fickle, its rare to get TE looking like the pictures you see. I go up there 2-4 times a year at short notice following the charts and still sometimes only get TE good for a few hours out of 4 days. To get it on 3-4 days in a row you need a lot of luck.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 09:26:59 am
Each to their own. Which areas did you climb at?

If you are mainly surfing and riding, why did you ask about climbing? 4 days is not very long.

For riding, you will go past Learnie Red Rocks, with some super rocky black circuits, and Golspie, take your strongest set of thighs. You will go pretty close to Woftrax at Laggan too.

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W (http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W)

http://www.highlandwildcat.com/ (http://www.highlandwildcat.com/)

http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html (http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2010, 09:30:17 am
Each to their own. Which areas did you climb at?

If you are mainly surfing and riding, why did you ask about climbing? 4 days is not very long.

For riding, you will go past Learnie Red Rocks, with some super rocky black circuits, and Golspie, take your strongest set of thighs. You will go pretty close to Woftrax at Laggan too.

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W (http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W)

http://www.highlandwildcat.com/ (http://www.highlandwildcat.com/)

http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html (http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html)

Well, we are taking the gear in case surf is poor. 4 days riding solid will hurt, so be nice to break it up. Will call in at one of trail centres on way back to break up journey.
Cheers for all info.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 09:33:02 am
There was alittle topo kicking around the net for a while of a bouldering spot near thurso, but can't find it now.

Vertical walls on crimpy sandstone. Will keep looking I'm sure it's out there. Might have a printout at home with an URL on it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 22, 2010, 10:12:49 am
MS is predicting overhead for Sunday.

Waist high onshore mush then?  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 02:08:45 pm
Looking at the forecast, i would head straight to the place with the walk (or cycle it if you have a shoulder strap on your board bag). Stick a pair of rock shoes in for immaculate wave washed Gneiss on a sandy beach. Or maybe Oldshoremore (just for a look) and possibly Balnakiel Bay (might be a bit too much W for that too).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 11:07:30 am
Hi guys, looking at ordering my first custom board from JP surfboards of swansea, has anyone had (or heard about) any good/bad experiences of them?

cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 11:55:53 am
GME has loads and knows him well.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 12:01:44 pm
GME has loads and knows him well.

Thanks. If he's got "loads" perhaps he'd like to donate one?  :P

JP has been helpful with questions/advice but always good to hear first hand experiences.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on July 23, 2010, 12:51:29 pm
Not to distract from that (the ordering of surfboards from JP thingy of swansea - in which I am also interested, but it will be some years I suspect), but has anyone ever been to Islay?

She and I are thinking about going in September.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2010, 12:57:18 pm
Not been but heard great things. Essential if you are into your single malts.

Some nice looking beaches http://www.islayinfo.com/beaches_on_islay.html (http://www.islayinfo.com/beaches_on_islay.html)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 23, 2010, 01:12:56 pm
now then Chris 05, looking at a custom stick  :-\

here's some pointers for going for a custom board;

1. go into JP shop and look at the boards that are very similar to the board you want him to shape. look at the quality of workmanship (glassing, the foam where the board is clear. the planing of the balnk should not have jagged edges

2. also look at other shapers such as simmons et al,  look at boards they have made similar / same to the type you seek.

3. look at other surfers boards in the water / on the beach and ask them questions about the board. be specific, dont just ask 'how's that board go? most surfers will happily talk about their boards.

4. look at surfers boards who are of a similar standard to you. be honest with your self assessment to. better to surf better with a vauxhall than look like a kook in a maclaren. if you get my drift. remember you turn up with a slick board and people will be expecting some flairing, if you dont deliver, you can forget about people offering you a wave any time soon.

5.also where is the board going to be surfed? ie, no point asking JP to shape you a board for Hawaii and vice versa no point asking Darren Handley to shape you a board for putsbourgh.



i assume you know what to look for since you are ordering a custom.
without sounding like a know it all prick, if you dont know exactly what you what from a board, i'd reccomend you get one off the shelf that you like.


the joys of a board off the shelf are its ready to wax and go straight away, and you can negoiate a price.
if you see one in the shop you like do a bit of investigating, see how long it has been there for. the longer its been there, the more chance you can barter.
look for dust over it.
pick it up and see if there is a dust imprint around where the tail was. the bigger the imprint, the longer its been there.

ask around, to see if your mates, other surfers have noted how long its been in the shop.


you are about to spend a decent wedge of cash, especially as JP charges premium rates now days  :shrug:  make sure you do your homework before ordering.

good luck and happy hunting. let us know how you go. Caveat Emptor "let the buyer beware"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 01:19:43 pm
I have had quite a few boards from JP(FD is correct a i have 6 in my rack at the minute). I have always liked the personal touch of getting a board from a shaper and now always get my boards from John or from Sam Egan if i am in Australia.

I cant fault his boards at all and would recommend that if you can go to his shop and talk to him. He carrys loads of stock boards if you dont want to go custom and has a try before you buy policy, that is you can take a board from him for a few weeks to try it, if you dont like it bring it back and you can swap it or return it. Dont know of any shops that will do that for you.

Regarding my boards, i am having a bit of a clear out (only to get new ones)and have 2 6`3"s and a 6`10" to get rid of. All JPs and a few years old. None are beginners boards however. If you, or anyone is interested i will post them up with full specs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 01:24:05 pm
remember you turn up with a slick board and people will be expecting some flairing,

I was dazzled by the blood red paint job & sleek pintailed curves of my 7'0 Aloha mini-gun in the shop all those years ago.  You can feel the eyes on you when walking & paddling out :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2010, 01:31:12 pm
If this is the type f thing you are after, make this guy an offer

http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23166 (http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23166)

(emphasis on the IF - see notes from oldfella above).

Rather pay full whack for the ideal board for you than get a bargain that is unsuitable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 01:32:12 pm
Thanks for the info oldfella, very useful.  :thumbsup:

I dont know a great deal about surfboard design but decided on a custom as it would allow me to get something better suited to me. Most boards off the shelf are on the thin side (fish etc excluded), i'm after something shorter but with plenty of buoyancy to suit my kook surfing style! I couldn't find what I wanted off the shelf.

Jp do have the option of borrowing a board for a couple of weeks which I'm hoping to make use of (although it will be in August when there probably wont be any waves!). I dont surf very often but want something which will work ok in a variety of conditions (beach break slop and good waves in indo and morocco) - I realise that this is basically impossible but I havent been that unhappy with my current board for all these waves so I'm hoping a model like JP's Hybrid will fit the bill.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 01:39:00 pm
gme: cheers. the try before you buy sounds good. I think your boards may be a bit to "performance oriented" for me, not quite a beginner but want something with a bit of float, probably about 19 3/4'' x 2 1/2'' or 2 5/8'' !

S.A Chris: thanks, good spot. Unfortuantely thats bigger than my current board, looking for one around the 6'4 mark.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 01:49:40 pm
Did he not have any of these on the shelf?

http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm (http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm)

6'4 x 20.5 x 2 1/2

I ride an almost identical template but it's Bunty
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 02:05:24 pm
Did he not have any of these on the shelf?

http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm (http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm)

6'4 x 20.5 x 2 1/2

I ride an almost identical template but it's Bunty

Haven't been to the shop yet. I thought this type of board might be great for the surf here but less good abroad in good waves? Did you use it on your Banyak trip? I can see I need to get down there and give a few a try. Whats the betting there isn't a ripple when I head down? ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 23, 2010, 02:09:33 pm
my other 2 pence worth,

by the sounds of it.
i reckon you'd be better of with the the good old round square tail. 6'4 -6'6 x 19 wide x 2-1/2 thick. maybe with FCS if you can if you plan to travel. however if youre looking at indo / morrocco, you be better off getting a 2nd board anyway, which i would get a board tailored for those waves. one of GME's 6'10s would be ideal.

you can get a good round square tail like that i mentioned above 2nd hand or off the shelf.
i personally dont buy into these hybrid mongrel boards. just stick with a convential board, get to know it inside and out. once yo can get that board to do everything you want it to do, then you are ready and capable to appreciate the variations in surf board design.

the standard tri fin (thruster) round square is standard because it fucking works in everything.

i know and see some many just above begginerrs surf all weird shit thinking they surf like derryk hind or rasta.
all it does it screw your basic tecniques.

it is like learning to climb using hob nailed boots because you see a few videos of ondra climbing in ceause with this shit on his feet, and think fuck thats cool. they must work!!

PS, dont be afraid of thin rails, the key thing is width in the right areas, bigg rails catch more water, and it want be long before you are burying the liitle bastards hard on a turn. rather than having them catch and buck you off and do the ball slap on the open face. i know GME knows the sensation, anyone else??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 02:29:12 pm
Did you use it on your Banyak trip?

Yeah it goes great in good waves.   On the bigger days I have a 6'9 rounded pin with a 2+1 setup.

Oldfella's on the money with his advice though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 23, 2010, 02:38:17 pm
arent i always???? shit, you dont get 10 negative points for talking drivell.......
as they say truth hurts sometimes......


on a positive note, GME and yours truly will be in G land next April / May for some proper goofy footer pr0n.
7 days or maybe more if Ms E will allow a 9 day stay. the extra days will reduce the effects of jetlag on  GME when he gets back home..

maybe he better hang on to those 6'3 & 6'10 round pins.


5 days of head and half to double g land then to finsh with double to triple o head for the climatic finish. 
then a night in kuta before we part ways  :pissed:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 02:45:55 pm
One of my boards i am getting rid of is 6`3" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2. JP squash. Not a lot of rocker and a good bit of weight under your chest for paddling and (as pointed out by oldfella) not thick around the edges . I got it shaped 4 years ago as my slop board and it goes great in usual british conditions. I am 78-80Kg and six one so not small and its a great board for me in anything from knee to head high waves. Its in pretty good nick with a few dings but all fixed up. Should be perfect for you.

I am only getting rid to make space as i now have a 6`0" and 5`9" i ride on small days.

You can have it for 100.00 in deck pad and then get your self a good travel board. Oldfella is right re having different boards for travelling as a lot of UK style boards just dont work in better waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 03:27:54 pm
One of my boards i am getting rid of is 6`3" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2. JP squash. Not a lot of rocker and a good bit of weight under your chest for paddling and (as pointed out by oldfella) not thick around the edges . I got it shaped 4 years ago as my slop board and it goes great in usual british conditions. I am 78-80Kg and six one so not small and its a great board for me in anything from knee to head high waves. Its in pretty good nick with a few dings but all fixed up. Should be perfect for you.

I am only getting rid to make space as i now have a 6`0" and 5`9" i ride on small days.

You can have it for 100.00 in deck pad and then get your self a good travel board. Oldfella is right re having different boards for travelling as a lot of UK style boards just dont work in better waves.

That sounds really interesting. Do you have any pictures? I'm about 65 kg and 5'8 but have been riding a 6'10 x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2 so should work ok. Where are you for picking it up?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 03:36:42 pm
the extra days will reduce the effects of jetlag on  GME when he gets back home..

then a night in kuta before we part ways  :pissed:

Not sure a night in kuta will help with the jetlag, you may not get home after that.

cheers again oldfella, you cant always be this helpful if you have that many punter points? ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 03:56:13 pm
Other board members sometimes don't get his sense of humour...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 04:10:25 pm
I am in the NE but in sheff every week. Will take a pic over the weekend and get it to you if I can work out how to do that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 04:15:19 pm
I am 78-80Kg ..

  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 05:46:24 pm
I am in the NE but in sheff every week. Will take a pic over the weekend and get it to you if I can work out how to do that.

That would be great. I'm away at a conference from sunday until wednesday, perhaps you could give me first refusal once i'm back?!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on July 23, 2010, 06:38:50 pm
I am 78-80Kg

lost weight since i saw you last then gav....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 07:54:43 pm
Cheeky bastards. I was 78 kg flat last night on the scales. My love handles were coming on nicely since becoming a surfer. Now I am bouldering a fair bit I have realised that they don't really help so have dropped half a stone.
Anyway FD you hit the big 40 soon this is the point in your life where everything starts growing where you don't want it to so with your taste for fine wines and kebabs your fucked.
And dave I can't quite remember but suspect the spreading years are already upon you.

Re the board chris 05. Will bring it down to sheff this week but only there until wed. Then off to Ireland for a week. Back in sheff around the 11th so can hook up then. No hurry as only selling them word of mouth at the minute.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 08:29:42 pm
 ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on July 23, 2010, 11:02:06 pm
I was 78 kg flat last night on the scales. My love handles were coming on nicely since becoming a surfer. Now I am bouldering a fair bit I have realised that they don't really help so have dropped half a stone.


i think you should mass produce those scales you used and sell them to the world over.

which activity are you referring to about your love handles?
a. surfing
b.shagging
c. bouldering


given that most of us are well into marriage and into / nearing 40's i guess that all three are a rare commodity to enjoy nowdays.....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on July 24, 2010, 10:04:53 am

And dave I can't quite remember but suspect the spreading years are already upon you.
 

well into them Gav, embracing them I'd say, its nothing to be scared of......adds character.....remember, muscle weighs more than fat.....

i still want some of those scales of yours though
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on July 24, 2010, 05:55:42 pm
after another fucked up dolomites trip I am currently at the sea.
mega swell coming in since last night, going to be offshore tomorrow morning.
problem is that I probably won't dare paddling in, after many months without surfing.
on another note, I got the van back, fixed a few dings and even put in a double sized, 15 cm thick new mattress. so now I will only empty your fridge but will sleep chz moi.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2010, 08:09:40 pm
Get on that swell. If you don't you will regret it, and never get the chance to ride that wave again, it will be gone forever.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on July 24, 2010, 08:17:48 pm
oh yeah chris,
I will paddle in for sure! I only hope it won't be too big, because the spot is super crowded and the takeoff is very very narrow: there is some kind of a rocky channel underwater, so the wave breaks exactly in the same point. it clearly has pros and cons. it's a great wave to be honest, and can be quite intimidating for a mediterran longboarder. I can still remember one time when I paddled for a wave, stood up and realized it was fa steeper and bigger than I had judged. I trimmed the roundest, smoothest and longest bottom turn of  my life, there was a shorboarder in the inside and he started whistling and yelling, it was great.
but hey, I was young then.
 ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2010, 08:24:35 pm
You were younger then, you are stronger now :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2010, 02:44:10 pm
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=107865479263645#&ref=mf (http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=107865479263645#&ref=mf)

This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on August 04, 2010, 02:49:32 pm
'scuse my ignorance,  :shrug: but has got no fin on that board  :bow:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 04, 2010, 02:50:49 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 04, 2010, 02:57:34 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...

just? I suggest you give it a try.... ;)

Is that derek hynd at j-bay?

Looks amazing on such a good waves and by someone so good, probably less impressive if i take my fins off and surf a uk beachie!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: oldfella on August 04, 2010, 03:16:47 pm
his quads must be aching after surfing that board.

hynd is a magician on a surfboard.

and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2010, 03:18:45 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...

Like saying he has just climbed 8c barefoot. Have you ever lost one fin and tried to surf? Some of the spins and stuff are just about impossible.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2010, 03:21:20 pm
and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.

Pretty sure it isn't, bit too deep too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 04, 2010, 03:30:36 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...

Like saying he has just climbed 8c barefoot. Have you ever lost one fin and tried to surf? Some of the spins and stuff are just about impossible.

Not saying i could do it! I have enough trouble surfing single fin!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 04, 2010, 05:57:31 pm
and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.

Pretty sure it isn't, bit too deep too.

Was just looking for more footage, according to this caption for the same video it is jbay....

http://video.mpora.com/watch/ftIAcwIJ6/ (http://video.mpora.com/watch/ftIAcwIJ6/)

dont think the video includes the caption but if typed into google it takes you to the site.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 04, 2010, 06:10:50 pm
 :oops: that didn't work well!

If you type:

Derek Hynd finless @ JBay // Surfing Videos

its the first link
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 12:25:46 pm
Just a heads up - a lot of Weever Fish at Porth Ceriad at the mo. I got stung twice, Ellie once. None were too bad but my toe is still numb and I daresay if you stood on one properly you'd be in a bad way. Shame to wear booties in summer but probably wise.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 12:29:31 pm
Did you stick your foot in hot water? Apparently best way of stopping pain.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trachinus#Treatment (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trachinus#Treatment)

How was surf?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 01:15:23 pm
Small, and got smaller. Very clean though, good for learning. Got to feel smug about having the most suitable board, and had a few rides where I felt really solid, but still not managed a turn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 01:36:28 pm
It's not an easy board to turn much, especially in small / slow waves. Need to really compress on the bottom turn and get the fins and rail in. Great for trimming on though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 02:00:27 pm
Trimming? Is that moving fore and aft to keep the ride going? I felt like I was a lot better at that this time... still a few nosedives though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 02:11:43 pm
Trimming? Is that moving fore and aft to keep the ride going?

Yup. You should be able to find the sweet spot though, and just stay there and fine tune by moving body weight onto back and front foot.

At least nosedives mean you aren't too far back. Try a slightly diagonal takeoff, esp in small steep waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 02:35:40 pm
Ah right, thanks for the tips. I ran right off the back of the board a couple of times in my trimming attempts.... definitely getting there though, managed some fairly neat takeoffs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 03:06:56 pm
yeah, I've done that. Moving backwards, combined with board accelerating because you are moving backwards, tricky not to let it disappear out from under you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Willriseley on August 09, 2010, 06:05:53 pm
How cool does this look? I ride a 5,10ft anyway so not a lot smaller plus I can sort of skim but this thing looks awesome :)

http://store.magicseaweed.com/Catch-Surf-The-One/Item/7171/ (http://store.magicseaweed.com/Catch-Surf-The-One/Item/7171/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on August 10, 2010, 02:54:23 am
Just a heads up - a lot of Weever Fish at Porth Ceriad at the mo. I got stung twice, Ellie once. None were too bad but my toe is still numb and I daresay if you stood on one properly you'd be in a bad way. Shame to wear booties in summer but probably wise.
Poor boody weever fish a having to sting one of your toes!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 10, 2010, 08:35:46 am
Yeah, I'm taking some solace from the thought of it dying a slow flaky death.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 17, 2010, 03:12:21 pm
Occasionally the N Sea plays fair. 2 hour low tide session on extended lunch, warm(ish) water, sunny skies, no wind and a nice clean swell with actual sets. Now got sand in my ears, welts under my arms and on my neck, as I forgot a rashie, knackered arms but a big grin. Hope this is the start of autumn swells.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 18, 2010, 06:42:24 pm
I sampled the delights of the same swell, far from great but fun all the same. Nice shoulder high glassy A frames on a local beach, sunshine, summer suit, no boots etc ( a rarity on NE coast). Good bit of punch for about an hour before the tide got to high and turned it into a loggers wave.

Bit crowded though with a whole 7 people in the water, some of which had travelled more than 2 miles to get here. I got fully local on there asses though as perscribed earlier in this thread, that sorted them all out. ;)

Nice little session but cant wait for some proper grunt to arrive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 18, 2010, 06:56:05 pm
Sounds nice, think the Baron is over there at the mo too. How much colder is the North Sea than the Irish? MSW seems to think only a couple of degrees, but I was expecting more...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2010, 09:41:13 pm
Bit crowded though with a whole 7 people in the water, some of which had travelled more than 2 miles to get here. I got fully local on there asses though as perscribed earlier in this thread, that sorted them all out. ;)

Nice little session but cant wait for some proper grunt to arrive.

Started off just two of us, peaked at 5 (two of which FD's mates who were on first boat trip).

Certainly seems a bit more life in it for a while.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2010, 09:44:04 pm
How much colder is the North Sea than the Irish? MSW seems to think only a couple of degrees, but I was expecting more...

3 or 4 maybe, not much more? I had boots on (but I always wear them now), and tatty 5/3 and felt fine. Fingers a bit cold for first 5 mins.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 19, 2010, 11:17:07 am
Its a good bit colder than ireland, my east coast summer suit is a 4/3. i was in for 3 hours the other day with no boots and started to feel a bit chilly by the end as we were sat around alot. I dont feel the cold badly though, everone else had boots and 5/3 s one even had gloves which is a bit OTT.

In ireland three weeks ago but didnt surf, went in the sea surfing with the kids though in a pair of shorts and teeshirt for 3/4 hour without feeling cold at all. only waist deep so stood up most of the time but did a fair bit of body surfing.

SA Chris, it must have been Paul, Sarah or Ritch. Say hello from Gav next time you see them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2010, 02:02:45 pm
First two. Will say hi next time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 19, 2010, 03:08:05 pm
Off to Abersoch tonight for the weekend if anyone is in Lleyn.  Surf doesn't look too bad for the North Coast and sheltered spots.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:15:21 pm
Off to Abersoch tonight for the weekend if anyone is in Lleyn.  Surf doesn't look too bad for the North Coast and sheltered spots.

Just thought that myself! Off trad climbing tomorrow in wales, then Lleyn for some surf Saturday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:28:01 pm
Planning to head down on tues/ weds for the best part of a week. Anyone in the area and fancy some surf or trad adventure, hit me up. All the birdbans are off now so we can get in as deep as you dare...

That reminds me, has the point break between Vatican zawn and Dorys ever been surfed? Looks amazing - long ride potential.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 19, 2010, 03:29:32 pm
Two weeks of flatness...
Been some epic partying scenes though.
And I have been doing climbing... Yipee!
Tintagel... (Superbloc).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:30:11 pm
Planning to head down on tues/ weds for the best part of a week. Anyone in the area and fancy some surf or trad adventure, hit me up. All the birdbans are off now so we can get in as deep as you dare...

Could very well be keen. Weather dependent. Trying to get trad partners in the current age of sport is hard work up here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 19, 2010, 03:32:08 pm


That reminds me, has the point break between Vatican zawn and Dorys ever been surfed? Looks amazing - long ride potential.
[/quote]

Slab?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:36:24 pm
Quote
Trying to get trad partners in the current age of sport

Tell me about it. I keep taking a trad rack to the Cornice, but getting people across the river you'd think it was the Rubicon ;)

Quote
Slab?

No, there's a steep slab with some boulders at the bottom but I think its sand as soon as you get a little way out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:37:52 pm
Quote
Trying to get trad partners in the current age of sport

Tell me about it. I keep taking a trad rack to the Cornice, but getting people across the river you'd think it was the Rubicon ;)

Quote
Slab?

No, there's a steep slab with some boulders at the bottom but I think its sand as soon as you get a little way out.

Would love to do Honey Dew.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:41:52 pm
It is good, a tricam is crucial for the start. After that its not so bold.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:44:38 pm
It is good, a tricam is crucial for the start. After that its not so bold.

Any hint on size?   :whistle:
Don't normally carry tricams!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:50:24 pm
Oohh, not sure about giving that much away!
NSFW  :
Red or Brown I think. Though it could be pink.  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 19, 2010, 04:21:49 pm
That reminds me, has the point break in that area ever been surfed? Looks amazing - long ride potential.

Yes. Please edit your post accordingly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 05:28:31 pm
Eh - you can't edit stuff that far back? Are we back on the secrets again? I thought using the climber's names would avoid annoying anyone... or are you winding me up?

So is it decent? I can't see it ever getting crowded what with the walk and the scramble.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 19, 2010, 11:41:19 pm
Some crazy feeding going on around the town beaches...
Can not make out what it is, tell tale seagulls above...
Keep seeing fast fin movements, but not seen a Seal or a Dolphin yet!!!
Last two days???
Two foot and offshore tonight... Doubling in size tomorrow. 6:00 start!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2010, 08:35:31 am
Sand eels rising? usually bigger fish go after them, and gulls do after bigger fish and so on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 20, 2010, 11:16:24 am
 :thumbsup: a small swell has arrived along with southerlies in the SW it's been at least 3 weeks, lets hope this is the start of cracking autumn!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 20, 2010, 06:22:45 pm
Nah... It like a Plankton blanket... There was a Sunfish. Pod of Dolphins all this morning. Reckon its going to be good Basking shark spotting soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 23, 2010, 11:52:20 am
Spent a few days north of Whitby last week checking out overnight parking/quieter spots. Sunny, clean and in a 3/2. Discovered what a difference the tide can make, e.g. Sandsend - flat at high, firing at low. Scored a couple of classic Saltburn sunset sessions. Great wave.

Thursday looking good. Buying a van for the autumn. East is beast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 23, 2010, 12:44:35 pm
You guys further down the coast always benefit from the swell, but don't get nailed by the winds associated with the low creating it. Life aint fair sometimes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 23, 2010, 01:12:00 pm
We are kind of stuck in the middle where i am. anything 3ft or below or too northerly just passes us by and hits yorkshire, but when its bigger we can get a lot of winds. On the plus side NW winds are better the further north you go and not good yorks way.

Yorks also has a well known secret spot that has the magical ability to turn a 2ft swell into a head high barrel, a rare trick indeed.

I got in a few times last weeik but hardly cranking, shoulder high at best but not big enough to get the reefs working.

And whilst i agree with the east coast love given out by baron if you want surf like we had last week on a regular basis head west and south, i think they get 3 or 4 times the amount of surfable days we get.

Roll on the winter when we get some proper stuff then the east really does show the sw what proper waves are like.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 01:17:47 pm
Brown?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 23, 2010, 01:38:35 pm
Hoping to head up to the NE to try out my new (old) board (cheers gme) this weekend, surf permitting. Anyone got a recommendation for a campsite close to surf in the scarborough region? Needs to have showers but not bothered about anything else. Realise finding one with any room at this late notice could be difficult.

Also if anyone fancies pm'ing me with any ideas for breaks which might not be rammed on a bank holiday weekend, would be greatfully received!  ;)  (unlikely I know, but worth a try!)

cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 23, 2010, 01:44:15 pm
not where i am, clear blue sea.. Its for the same reason its on of the uks top dive spots. i have had days here on certain reefs where you could see fish, rocks, weed etc refracted in the water as well as you do in indo.

and the colouration in yorks is mainly from the soil anyway. In the top 20 most polluted beaches in Uk only 1 was on the east coast. five in devon, five in cornwall four in cumbria.

I have never gotten  ill surfing the east coast. Most spots are fine other than the secrect spot mentioned in my earlier post which has shit water quality (i have not gotten ill there) and the two river mouth spots on the tyne and tees which can be fucking horrenduous after rain. (again i have not been ill from either but know lots who have, i put this down to and iron constitution gained from eating at the grand potato 3-4 times a week during the 90s.)
The only place i have become ill after surfing was hells mouth, and i am not sure that was from the sea either, it just seemed like it at the time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 01:54:34 pm
Only joking, I'm keen to get over this autumn! There's a photo on this thread somewhere of an enormous brown yorkshire barrel, quite a sight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 23, 2010, 02:46:36 pm
Thats yorkshire. Its Eugene Tollmarche and was the 2nd feb 2008. biggest and best swell in a decade. Perfect up my way as well. Got one or two of the biggest waves i have ever surfed and without doubt the biggest, heaviest flogging i have ever had.

Its the only time i have surfed waves that i would call properly double + over head, only four of us out and watched Gabe Davies getting full hands in the air barrels. He had just returned from hawaii and said it was comparable to any session he had had there (it was a bad season in the pacific). There is some footage of the session on "rise"

I bought a 7` 4" a week later ready for the next big swell, this still stands unridden in my board rack two and a half years later. one day though.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 23, 2010, 02:58:13 pm
Johnny - lets get involved on Thursday!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 03:00:34 pm
I'm heading down the Lleyn on weds. You're in the Pass over the bank holiday aren't you? I'll let you know if its any good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 23, 2010, 03:05:14 pm
Hope there are some gaps in the forecasted wind!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 23, 2010, 04:03:39 pm
Yes please, it's our planned wet weather option!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 23, 2010, 07:08:30 pm
Quote
Brown?
:lol:

Quote
I'm heading down the Lleyn on weds. You're in the Pass over the bank holiday aren't you? I'll let you know if its any good.

Good plan, Thursday promises a pumping swell that will deffo get into N. Wales spots but you'll need to find shelter from those SWerlies :-\  10ft+ @ 11secs  ;D

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 07:18:34 pm
Sounds perfect for that place I'm probably not supposed to mention despite it being all over the web.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 23, 2010, 10:43:18 pm
Yes indeed... But which one?  There's quite a few of those.. 

That little beach on an island, round the corner?

Down this way I was thinking somewhere beginning with M between Widemouth and Tintagel or another place in same the vicinity beginning with B or that place right round the corner in a County not associated with surf.. Or there's that place etc. etc. 

Forecast is shifty at the moment but it's definitely gonna be strong onshore, anywhere facing south or west will be mush, will the swell hold enough size to get in to sheltered spots?  Got a funny feeling we're all gonna get skunked.. Will report back Friday!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 24, 2010, 08:41:28 am
That little beach on an island, round the corner.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 25, 2010, 12:03:56 am
Spent all day today waiting for climbing folk to find car keys and stuff! waited three hours.... thought the surf was gash, drove past three foot Tolcarne pumpin....
Whippsyderry also looked OK for On Shore Swell!!!
Bet its trash till mid Sept!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 25, 2010, 01:05:01 am
Spent the day DWSing at Berry Head  :thumbsup:  Surf looked poo this morning.

Looks like this swell is gonna miss N Devon (too much south in it :wall:) but charts are looking super strong for N.Wales/  SW. Wales, wind direction looking perfect for you folks too!

Still a day for things to change again, come on storm track a little further bluddy north :spank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2010, 08:47:17 am
Come on Danielle, show your dark side.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 25, 2010, 08:52:42 am
Fistral three foot and offshore!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 25, 2010, 08:54:33 am
Same at Hell's Mouth... just need to get there now.
(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/daily_photos/surf2a.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 25, 2010, 10:34:04 am
1 to 2 ft in N Devon, nice and clean but a pretty weak swell it is..

Low tide onwards could be promising though...

Tommorow is the day but south coast spots could be better..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 25, 2010, 04:00:54 pm
Three foot and clean here. Little head high barrels on my fav reef. Nice to feel a bit of juice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 25, 2010, 05:05:51 pm
Synoptic forecast is 2.5mt on Saturday... Low is holding in the Bay of Biscay, so plenty of South in the swell
2.5mt+SW=6-8ft Praa!
Should wrap to N Spots....
I be going Porthcurno on the low...
hits Thursday eve and should be a three dayer!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 26, 2010, 10:30:00 am
North Coast tail end of next week and into the weekend looking very very good!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 10:50:46 am
Which North Coast?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 26, 2010, 11:08:41 am
Which North Coast?

Cornwall/Devon North coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 26, 2010, 11:34:43 am
Swell is not showing at this end of the coast :thumbsdown:

Quote
Low is holding in the Bay of Biscay, so plenty of South in the swell

South coast spots will be going off, swell's got far too much south in it and is missing the bloody target up here. 

Might manage 2ft and clean later but if you're mobile head west and south my friends, expect Lev'll be heaving.  I gotta a fickin hospital appointment at 4 which kinda spoils things for me, will be heading into frontier land across the border into N Kernow once they're done poking my cheek (which is now sorted thanks for asking).  S. Coast tommorow though :great:

There are some interesting developments in t'atlantic at the moment, we could be in for some treats in the coming weeks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 01:40:43 pm
expect Lev'll be heaving. 

I was thinking that, in both senses of the word.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 26, 2010, 04:02:49 pm
Leven and two spots further round (East)... four to five and no wind...
Chapel cove and (?) Glassy and solid four!
North Coast... not good!
Going to bloody Tintagel bouldering... then going South Coast tonight for the dawnnie!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 26, 2010, 10:40:17 pm
Croyde managed a pathetic 1ft and clean  :o 

South Coast definitely having the better of this swell..  Did it make it up to the Lleyn?

Normality will be restored next week when we will score good waves on the N. Coast and the S will be onshore!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 07, 2010, 02:15:35 pm
Granticus, is this really Westward Ho?

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=179650&photoOfTheDay (http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=179650&photoOfTheDay)

I only drove by and had a brief look once (it was flat and I was supposed to be working), doesn't look right somehow. Longboard paradise in that pic if it is.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 07, 2010, 05:30:26 pm
stunning picture that
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 07, 2010, 05:31:57 pm
Yep! Indeed that is the Ho!  looking all lined up and it is indeed a very good longboarding spot, far less punchy than Croyde
and a good quieter alternative to Saunton with similar waves. 

Eyeball called it 1ft and just about rideable on Monday morning.  The regulars at Croyde know very different, absolutely
pumping heaving A-frame low-tide barrels were served up right on cue (solid 4ft+ ? ).  Chatted to a couple of landlocked
visitors that were  :o by the heaviness of it all.  Definitely an intimidating proposition on days like this.  Been in 5 days in
a row and this was the session of them all, quiet, mostly regulars and wave after wave, no competiveness just folk calling
each other into waves, most unlike Croyde! (sometimes the web-sites and the charts are wrong so wrong).



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 07, 2010, 07:12:01 pm
Don't think I could cope with Saunton crowds ever again. Last time we were there for a wedding we went up to Woollacombe and headed along the beach until we found an nice empty peak. Saunton had hundreds in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 09, 2010, 01:46:49 pm
Our very own Dave Lamacraft styling at Ceriad.

http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5 (http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5)

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2010, 02:36:47 pm
Not sure what rest of E Coast is like, but big swells this morning, after 2 days of onshore gales. Waves breaking in places I have never seen before this morning. Hopefully be a bit smaller and cleaned later.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 09, 2010, 03:23:44 pm
Cranking down here last night once the winds dropped, a few 5 footers in there. Four of us on a right point, still a bit bumpy.

Perfect this morning, again 4ft ish only got an hour and half at first light before having to get train to Sheffield for two days, now being bombarded with texts about how good it is. Bollocks

 Dont get that many good SE/ E swells but this one looks like its one of them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 09, 2010, 08:43:28 pm
Our very own Dave Lamacraft styling at Ceriad.

http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5 (http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5)

 :thumbsup:

nice
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2010, 09:51:29 pm
For once Aberdeen facing more SE paid off for once. Probably shoulder high ish this evening, only managed an hour or so before dark, but caught a half dozen great waves. Felt lack of fitness paddling out in big waves though, had to take a breather after each paddle out. Not good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 09, 2010, 10:52:19 pm
For once Aberdeen facing more SE paid off for once. Probably shoulder high ish this evening, only managed an hour or so before dark, but caught a half dozen great waves. Felt lack of fitness paddling out in big waves though, had to take a breather after each paddle out. Not good.
Good training for next time though buddy :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2010, 09:38:44 am
Word. That muscle (you know the one at the back of the top of your shoulder) aches like bollocks this morning. I think lunchtime yoga didn't help.
Hopefully it will last through until tonight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 13, 2010, 05:37:09 pm
Crantock last week.
(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/180956.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 13, 2010, 06:32:06 pm
Great shot - anyone we know?

I got hammered; the story as follows:

Local mates: Lets go to Watergate

Me: Ok

Local mates: Whoooooo!!!!!!

Me: AAAARRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 13, 2010, 06:39:04 pm
Great shot - anyone we know?

Josh Knowles. Its from MS, not one of mine.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 13, 2010, 06:53:56 pm
Crantock last week.
(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/180956.jpg)

that's fucking beautiful mate
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 13, 2010, 08:15:12 pm
East coast this weekend should be looking like a brown version of that - and the sun might even come out too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 13, 2010, 09:12:18 pm
shit.

I got the kids in swiming galas, a work shift (24hrs) & a freeride bike to dial in... hence *fatdoc no go sponging this weekend*... :wall:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 13, 2010, 10:15:35 pm
Leven at its best. Excuse the fb link. Hope you can see it.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs565.snc3/30839_411446382552_677927552_4783187_1424552_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 13, 2010, 11:58:07 pm
Russ Mullins in the pit!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2010, 09:10:13 am
East coast this weekend should be looking like a brown version of that - and the sun might even come out too!

Never say things like that, beware the jinx (although I have a family weekend down in London, so that might up the odds).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 14, 2010, 10:25:08 am
Russ Mullins in the pit!!!

You must have seen the pic before to know who it was in there!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2010, 02:22:39 pm
That was taken when Russ and two gays on trays were in the water... Think they printed, Russ was the first one out.. Within minutes, he tamed it like a pussy cat". Ledgend.
He also got the "Queen of Kernow" centre spread in Surf Europe.
One of my greatest mates!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on September 14, 2010, 05:05:08 pm
If I was to drag my unfit arse to Scarborough with my Decathlon wetsuit over the next few days would I a) freeze to death and b) drown, (given the MS forecast)???  :shrug:

Essential imformation:  only second time I've surfed this year and I'm not very good  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 14, 2010, 05:45:55 pm
Go to south bay. You can get changed in the underground car park and stay warm. The water will be fine still too, just depends if the winds up or sun's out.

Surf off the arcades, in the lee of the harbour wall. The northerly swell should wrap around giving a smaller, cleaner wave.

Might be busy though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2010, 05:49:04 pm
The Crantock picture, it is proberbly breaking into waist high water... we had it like this right on the inside wedge... 9-10 close out on Saturday... but the ones that peeled..........
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 14, 2010, 07:29:00 pm
shit... that wave at the arcades sounds mighty fine..


OK, though I'll not get out for a few weeks....

someone give me some shopping sites / recommendations for bodyboarding  shoes / flipper combos.

I aint prepared to wait till next summer..

oh... and  a Hood.

cheers!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 14, 2010, 08:20:26 pm
I got one of these you can have for a tenner:
http://www.secretspot.co.uk/catalogue/1/product3947 (http://www.secretspot.co.uk/catalogue/1/product3947)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 14, 2010, 09:03:14 pm
size?

I'm  a large medium ( 56cm for DH MTB).

and whats wrong with it?
 this year's and from 28 to 10??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 14, 2010, 09:52:32 pm
I'm normally a medium in everything, but this came up a little tight so went for a large (it's a large).

I bought it last winter (obviously) and it's in perfect condition. I use a hooded rash vest instead now.

How does 15 sound then, ha ha!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2010, 10:07:17 pm
Sipping Jetstreams (Placebo Teaser) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGT36D7TcLE#ws)

Patrick King likes this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 15, 2010, 12:17:23 am
Patrick King likes this.
I'm happy for him but let's not start this again I was lost the first time, who owes who what? :shrug:

I have this film and it is pretty cool.  The final section with Kelly Slater at Soup Bowls in Barbados is epic, nice to see him take a beating and enjoy it at the end as well... :thumbsup:

Strong SWerlies today, headed east with the intention of catching the Tour of Britain skirting the edge of Exmoor in the morning.  Went past a cool little left reef (not fecking Lyndaka that was blown out dribble) on the way, couldn't believe my eyes :o it was working 2 to 3ft clean punchy peelers on sets.  Boards and suit in my car still from Saturday evening.  Got in on my own and surfed it alone for an hour and half, then bloke who lives over the road got in (but he can't surf for toffee so didn't really affect the situation apart from the occasional drop-in belly ride and some exploratory reef inspections), then after 2 hours a couple of the Somerset crew got in. Surfed for another hour or so, good vibes, the tide dropped out and it was gone.  A great morning but I never did get to see the Tour..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 15, 2010, 03:29:19 am
Is it Vietnam?
Patrick King... almost as elusive as Dave Angel!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 15, 2010, 04:31:55 am
sounds perfect granticus
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 15, 2010, 07:11:24 am
Maybe 20!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2010, 09:18:08 am
recommendations for bodyboarding  shoes / flipper combos.

Hard to know what combination will work without trying on unfortunately, but they might sell them near you, maybe in Decathlon? Make sure you gat a pair of fins that are comfy and float, and get a neoprene sock specifically designed for use with fins (most surfing ones have a rubber sole which makes them very hard to get into fins.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 15, 2010, 09:52:02 am
cheers.

suddenly realised the ones I have now that sink like a stone have been somewhat of a hinderance
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on September 15, 2010, 10:22:21 am
Go to south bay. You can get changed in the underground car park and stay warm. The water will be fine still too, just depends if the winds up or sun's out.

Surf off the arcades, in the lee of the harbour wall. The northerly swell should wrap around giving a smaller, cleaner wave.

Might be busy though.

Thanks Baron. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2010, 11:10:19 am
suddenly realised the ones I have now that sink like a stone have been somewhat of a hinderance

If they are old they may have been a bit heavy. Newer ones are lighter, but floatiness is as much so you don't lose one if it comes off, or gets washed out your hands at any point.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 15, 2010, 11:24:06 am
Is it Vietnam?
Patrick King... almost as elusive as Dave Angel!!!

It's Bali...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 15, 2010, 04:12:30 pm
Fully inaccessable is it not...
Heli ride in?
looks so fuckin cute!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 15, 2010, 09:12:07 pm
PM with the details mate, cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 15, 2010, 10:52:31 pm
Not on today but you can watch the Hurley Pro (World Tour Surfing) live from Lower Trestles right here.http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/ (http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/)

I do believe I have met Pat King a few times, once at a boulder installed in a stately home in Warwickshire, once at Bear Rock indoor climbing wall (Warwick Uni) and once somewhere in the Peak (can't remember where?).  If I'd only known I would have abducted him and held him for ransom...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 16, 2010, 03:35:48 am
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on September 16, 2010, 06:57:55 am
http://www.shipsterns.com/ (http://www.shipsterns.com/)

HUGE low pressure area moved over Tasmania over the last 24 hours. Swells peaked at over 18 metres off the SW coast last night. They're expecting it to remain at 8-9m for the next couple of days so there might be some 'intersting' shots and footage on the Shipsterns site coming up.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2010, 08:53:12 am
Shipsterns - all that scares me about surfing condensed into one wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 16, 2010, 01:35:49 pm
There's a monstrous slab further out that was photographed briefly earlier this year.  Like Shipsterns but Cortez Bank sized. Terrifying!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 16, 2010, 05:32:01 pm
Zorbas.
Please break again soon!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 17, 2010, 12:21:40 am
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
:-\  This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 17, 2010, 03:13:50 pm
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
:-\  This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...


Did he eat all your food without asking whilst wearing a pair of Calvin Klein boxer shorts?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on September 17, 2010, 03:34:58 pm
Before persuading you to swap your mountain bike for an old suit that didnt fit you and then leaving it in town where it got nicked?!

"Dolly! you're gonna die tonight!"

Have fun those of you lucky enough to be north east bound this weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 17, 2010, 03:40:59 pm

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...

That's the one!  :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 17, 2010, 06:34:03 pm
Cheers D

East coast kelp breakfast for me in the morning. Apparently today was epic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Drewski Rootbitch on September 17, 2010, 08:56:39 pm
Update from today;
Cayton Bay wasn't working at all, although there were a few people out on the point doing Billy-Big-Balls stuff (which apparently was not great either).
North Bay, Scarborough wasn't happening, general carnage.
Unfortunately, South Bay, Scarborough was nothing like the 2 stars MSW would have you believe.
Busy, as it was giving all impressions of working, but that was just a trick to lure you in.
On closer inspection very few waves were being caught as things were quite messy and choppy.
Lots of double hitters etc.
We were in for about 3 hours trying to get somewhere, but.....  :(
So if you didn't make it today, don't worry.

Last night however was quite nice...in the water until about 8:30pm..... :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 17, 2010, 09:09:03 pm
The MSW star system is the curse of the internet enabled surfer.  Ignore if you can.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: robertostallioni on September 17, 2010, 09:38:34 pm
Don't encourage him FFS. I lend him Jerry's book and the next thing I know is he's sacked climbing and using words like 'choppy' and 'double hitters'.   :'(

WTF.  ::)

 Anyway, carry on.  :alky:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 17, 2010, 11:32:31 pm
the next thing I know is he's sacked climbing

Good, might give us all a chance at Ratho in October!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 18, 2010, 03:22:10 pm
The MSW star system is the curse of the internet enabled surfer.  Ignore if you can.

It's fuckin my head in, and I've only used it since July!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 18, 2010, 07:22:41 pm
had an amazing day in tynemouth, 8am only a handful of surfers in for some amazing waves. 
Some really clean sets.  Only two major downfalls of the day,
managed to tweak my shoulder and i have just realised the great north run is on tomorrow  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on September 20, 2010, 11:14:04 am
Update from today;
Cayton Bay wasn't working at all, although there were a few people out on the point doing Billy-Big-Balls stuff (which apparently was not great either).
North Bay, Scarborough wasn't happening, general carnage.
Unfortunately, South Bay, Scarborough was nothing like the 2 stars MSW would have you believe.
Busy, as it was giving all impressions of working, but that was just a trick to lure you in.
On closer inspection very few waves were being caught as things were quite messy and choppy.
Lots of double hitters etc.
We were in for about 3 hours trying to get somewhere, but.....  :(
So if you didn't make it today, don't worry.

Last night however was quite nice...in the water until about 8:30pm..... :thumbsup:

I surfed the point break late afternoon/early evening as the tide was on it's way out, caught a few waves but it was hard work. First day out after cartilage operation on my knee, so it was nice just to be in the water. No climbing for 3 months *apparently* - surfing felt ok-ish...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 20, 2010, 11:44:40 am
Glad to hear there have been some waves for you east siders...

MSW star rating system and forecasts have their limitations, a sprinkling of local knowledge and sneaky peeks at webcams will help decision making further..

 :jaw:  West side is about to receive some post hurricane delights, could be all time, could be maxed out carnage.  Some smaller warm up swells to start the week and then things should get spicey, spring tides too...  IF the forecasts hold, swell starts 2ft at 20secs (could convert into a sizeable wave when it strikes shore) peaking at 5ft at 15secs with light offshores predicted...  :bounce:
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
:-\  This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...


Did he eat all your food without asking whilst wearing a pair of Calvin Klein boxer shorts?
Ate all my food and alleviated me of my crashpad for the afternoon (or was that Johnny Dawes!!?).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 20, 2010, 12:28:12 pm
Epic up here on sat if you knew where to go, all main beaches were just closing out and i suspect a lot of people spent a lot of time driving and looking.

Tides (or lack of any)didn't help but due to the size of the swell loads of new/ rarely ridden slabs got a hammering. My favorite spot was solid five foot and jacking to double over head with the odd bigger ones. Got some of the best waves i have had for a while and one proper good flogging when we all got caught chatting and failed to see the biggest set of the afternoon. Total carnage as nine of us took the full set on the head.

The only downer which takes me back to the localism issue was the fact that the van loads from the SW including a few of our top surfers cant go anywhere without cameras. I suspect one of our waves will now be all over the next issue of Carve and in the next UK video.

To make it worse they now all bring jet skis to surf waves that have been paddled by a few people for years. This time they failed to tow surf a slab that's been ridden lots without skis and was happily paddled into at the same size by three young kids from newcastle who are hardly old enough to be out without there mums.

Matty capel however, who did not use a ski, give the best surfing performance i have ever seen  on a seldom ridden slab. total pleasure to witness.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 20, 2010, 06:24:18 pm
Aye.

Got the tour from a mate who lives in Whitby this weekend and popped my east coast slab cherry. Amazing.

I have 1 board; 7' 2'' x 22 x 2 7/8 quad fish. Felt like I needed something snappier.

Suggestions for east coast reef/point board?

I'm 5' 11'' and 10st 12lbs
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 20, 2010, 08:14:31 pm
Ha! Josh Hughes killing it at Staves too!!!
Seen the photos...
Love them boys!
Skis are gay though, but if your in rehab all week... you need help at weekends!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 20, 2010, 08:42:54 pm
Gay is a good word for them. Very lame and lazy. I work too much and could triple my wave count with them as it's my arms that give out before the will, could afford one but wouldn't get one as the waves here really don't need one. Ireland maybe but not here, ain't seen a wave that couldn't be paddled yet.  Seams like there the latest must have gadget.

Baron. Your board sounds way to wide for the heavier east coast waves. Generally you want something a bit narrower with more rocker for the steeper waves. Length may not be an issue but I would guess from the description it's a pretty wide fat board for the average waves we get. My standard beach short board is six foot but 19 INS wide. My reef board is 6.4 x 18 3/4 and my step up that I rode sat was 6.6 but only 18. 1/2 wide. Ie they get thinner as they get longer.
Also I like round pins on the reef/slabs as they hold better than squares.
Re fins. I am a thruster man. Never found the twin /quad thing any good. Think it's just to sell more boards.  And I already have to many.
I have a 6.3 for sale but it may be too small for you. I love it in indo etc when I am in shorts but it's too small for uk winter with all our clobber on. I am bigger than you at 6.1 and 80 kg.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 20, 2010, 09:36:58 pm
Good knowledge gme, cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 21, 2010, 08:22:01 am
We got waves all week again...
just a heads up for a SW visit!!!
Weekend looking better, Friday Saturday it should peak?
Still in a 3.2
Going to see Adam Beyer at DRUMCODE, so going to miss most of it!



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2010, 08:49:54 am
Epic up here on sat

Great weekend I chose to go to SE to see relatives. Gutted.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 21, 2010, 06:29:04 pm
It would be my first true short board so I'm wary of going too short too soon.

Tried a 6' 6'' beachbeat thruster with a bit more width (around 19'' I think, maybe more) and volume than yours a while back. Seemed to get on with that ok. Sound reasonable?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on September 21, 2010, 09:10:49 pm
i got a 6'8" x 19" rounded pin rusty thruster off of ebay after a bit of advice from falling down and chris. It goes great. Got it for indo but reckon it would suit the east. Im a similar size ti yiu. Touch heaviier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2010, 02:48:48 pm
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 22, 2010, 03:34:35 pm
A good four to five... six on the sets, blowing out afternoon type shit... building on the push scenarios, but improving through the week!
Called Skinner off a double overhead bomb today at Whippsy! fully funny! really good surfer that guy, and leaves the Ego out!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 22, 2010, 06:19:27 pm
Nice to see they put all the locals waves on the video as well and its not some SW centered wave fest !!!

Still good and eugenes wave at the end gets my vote as the best.

Wasnt quite as big where we were but only just a bit smaller, there are pics about but they are all on flickr and i cant work out how to get them onto here.

Heres a link to his page if it works http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/ (http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/)

 just shows what the east coast can produce the once or twice a year we get a proper 6 ft swell hitting. If only there was a way to get rid of scandinavia and russia.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2010, 06:28:38 pm
I reckon it would be better to push NE tip of Scotland westwards a bit so the Aberdeen Coast faces NE and doesn't get in the way. That way we will get more swell, and you will get a wider window.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 22, 2010, 06:34:30 pm
The guy in the red top suit getting the reform barrel. Ruler.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2010, 07:14:01 pm
there are pics about but they are all on flickr and i cant work out how to get them onto here.

Heres a link to his page if it works http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/ (http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/)

Read Backlinking Flickr the easy way (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Pictures_to_UKBouldering#Backlinking_Flickr_the_easy_way) (or the official way from Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/help/photos/?search=bbcode#2265887))

Et voila!

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/5008177840_949fcb5558_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/swin_hoe/5008177840/)
DSC_4004 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/swin_hoe/5008177840/#) by swinhoe industries (http://www.flickr.com/people/swin_hoe/), on Flickr


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 22, 2010, 07:34:14 pm
Well done.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2010, 07:37:28 pm
T'was nothing, I wrote the UKB Wiki page to save having to type the same thing each time someone was having trouble posting pictures.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 22, 2010, 09:23:03 pm
Great film - Just show's how good UK surfing can get when it's on.

Gav - Any pics of you on the Flickr stream?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 22, 2010, 09:48:49 pm
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.

this looks amazin

give some climbing context here... is this what.. E5 onsight? E8 ??

bolted 8b redpoint or on sight??


I have no idea.. but, damn.. that was cool!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 22, 2010, 10:10:19 pm
The guys in the vid are all good surfers and have some form of basic sponsorship, photo's in mags etc or another.  They can surf and have also surfed much more impressive and demanding conditions...

Difficult to make a comparison with climbing as the two don't really match up and it depends what you do on the wave once you're on it, but, when you surf outside of England you regularly see surfing to this standard regularly and the surfers in question are rarely sponsored.

It depends on where you put yourself and what you do with the wave rather than the wave itself - that's why you can't grade surfing thank god.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 11:03:46 am
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.

Hey Chris do you know where this is exactly?, unless it says on the vid but im watchin it wit no sound. Im thinking shitty water so not to far north.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 23, 2010, 11:19:39 am
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.

Hey Chris do you know where this is exactly?, unless it says on the vid but im watchin it wit no sound. Im thinking shitty water so not to far north.

Its 'Cookie Monsters' but i assume its a heavily guarded secret!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 11:50:44 am
Aye, I think mum is the operative word there. I don't know, but think gme might. PM him with a good bribe and he might just tell you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 23, 2010, 11:59:31 am
It's in Yorkshire...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 23, 2010, 12:01:43 pm
This has caused an absolute shit storm in the last 48 hrs, the locals (non of which are in the vid) are totally fucked off with the producer of the video. Even one of the surfers in it isnt happy. i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.

Despite it being the worst kept secret in the world its still a secret spot and does not feature in any guides. So if you know where it is keep it to your self.

Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 12:02:30 pm
Quote
It's in Yorkshire...


No shit

(http://tnrdlibrary.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/sherlock-holmes.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 12:05:43 pm
i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.

Hardly the first time Carve have fucked people off with cats getting out of bags. Managed to do it in ireland, Scotland and Wales already IIRC.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 12:14:04 pm
This has caused an absolute shit storm in the last 48 hrs, the locals (non of which are in the vid) are totally fucked off with the producer of the video. Even one of the surfers in it isnt happy. i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.

Despite it being the worst kept secret in the world its still a secret spot and does not feature in any guides. So if you know where it is keep it to your self.

Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.

Locals, fuck em, surfings now pretty much fucked anyway, half the residents of greater london have got boards on there roof. Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.
Anyway when a place like that is ripping your pretty unlikely to get joe bloggs rocking up for take off, he'd get splattered.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 12:49:52 pm
Sorry gme, just re read thats not suppose to be a rant at you, just a the old local attitude in general. Having been on the receiving end of some localism it hits a nerve with me everytime.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 01:02:14 pm
Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.

Crags accessible 180 days a year compared to breaks that work like that maybe 3 or 4 days a year do not equate. I can see why people get fucked off.
Magazines have little to gain in the long term by publishing things like this other than selling a few more copies of that current issue.

There is dickheadish chestbeating "I am a local this is my wave" localism and then there is justified, "I have waited for this day all year and don't want too big a crowd " localism. Two ends of the scale.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 23, 2010, 01:03:19 pm
i am not getting involved in this again. Read a few pages back for my stance
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 01:24:57 pm
Yeh i appreciate what your saying Chris, there's the local nobs and the local good guys, but it still doesnt cut. Eg. I was trying a certain traverse local to me, and you only get really good conditions once a month tops, especially when you have to fit it around job etc. So i been training and trying for this thing for over a year, i rock up, dry wind from the north, suns out, low humidity, perfect, only happens 4 or 5 times a year. Place is fucking packed, and now ive got to climb past people, put up with distractions, people laughing etc etc.. its same thing, buts its my problem not their's.
Anyway, i guess this subject has been bashed to death n is tiresome  :yawn: so ..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 23, 2010, 01:35:19 pm
Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.

Crags accessible 180 days a year compared to breaks that work like that maybe 3 or 4 days a year do not equate. I can see why people get fucked off.
Magazines have little to gain in the long term by publishing things like this other than selling a few more copies of that current issue.

There is dickheadish chestbeating "I am a local this is my wave" localism and then there is justified, "I have waited for this day all year and don't want too big a crowd " localism. Two ends of the scale.

Ok, soooo... if it  only works 6 times a year... shurly only the locals /  those able anable that can get there (and one would presume not fuck up the line up as they would know they are in a special place with equally minded souls) would go?

I and a vast army of punter just wouldnt / couldnt go?

I dont quite get the *crowds are anathama for surfing to be any good* concept. there again I just like flailing around on a sponge so what do i know? I presume that puts me right down at the bottom of the pecking order.. which is wierd.. as from my very limited experience spongers have a high sucess rate in catching a wave they go for.

It's all new to me, but in the UK with it's over population I find it hard to believe there are few regularly breaking secret spots  :shrug:

may as well get em all out in the open, to dilute the other breaks if crowding out the back is a national problem  :shrug:

there again, if i knew of such a place... i'd perhaps have a different view :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 23, 2010, 02:49:16 pm
Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.

Indeed, a certain landmark in the background of one is a big give away. Might want to take that one down.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 02:58:18 pm
I wish i had taken gme's stance

Quote
I am not getting involved in this again

I understand why it happens but don't necessarily agree with it. Like many things in life unless you are in the exact situation you can't really appreciate it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 23, 2010, 06:03:32 pm
at least they cant come to my local barrel fest and just shoot videos of it like this!
oh wait, brb
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 23, 2010, 06:34:25 pm
how do i remove my post.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 07:49:21 pm
Hopefully a mod will read this and do it for you ask Bubba or one of the IOs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 23, 2010, 08:38:43 pm
Not sure of the impact of removing them from here tbh, flickr is a site with rather more traffic.

I can identify to some extent to the secretism in surfing (as opposed to localism) but I think this illustrates why its going to struggle in the information age. The research I've done on Lleyn spots suggests a lot of info all ready online, and very little consensus on which are secret.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 23, 2010, 10:37:53 pm
Looks like there was quite a collection of visitors from down this way, including a youngster from Croyde with 'acting skills'..

Not gonna get involved either I think all that could be said has been said and that's 'nuff said.

Solid swell is arriving SW tomorrow along with Northerly winds, perhaps the NE mafia could start an impromptu exchange programme with their Cornish chums and pile on down to the Lev or nearby secrets that'll be cranking :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 24, 2010, 12:00:31 am
Like anyone actually "owns" waves/breaks, they're so ephemeral!  :P

(I do however understand that that is part of their appeal)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on September 24, 2010, 08:45:12 am
I'm probably heading down to pembroke tonight based on the promise of long period small waves. Its a 41/2 hour trip from here so want to get it right. Msw is suggesting 3ft at 15 secs, anyone care to take a guess whether this will be genuine 3ft or should I apply the usual msw conversion for wave height/stars?

It looks as though I'd be better heading to Croyde or somewhere nearby but I'm put off by stories of packed waves.

I'm guessing lots of people will say go and find out but would appreciate any local (or not) knowledge. I dont mind it being small but would like some reasonably clean waves (who wouldn't I know).

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 08:53:48 am
Don't know the breaks well enough to be certain, but it looks likely you will get something at Fresh W or  Newgale, may not be what you want though. N Devon only looks marginally better. Can't give any better advice than suck it and see, I'm afraid.

Stick ropes and mat in just in case.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 09:06:36 am
Big swells on the east coast but with north winds.

There will still be spots where you can get a good wave though to save you the trek down to Pembroke. South Bay and filey will be cleanish and worth a paddle.

Lots of other spots as well all up the coast just get out a map and look for anywhere facing SE, the swell is more than big enough to wrap into most sheltered bays.

I love the east coast when its like this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on September 24, 2010, 09:21:35 am
Cheers for the info guys, guess I'll wait until the last minute to make the call.

By the way gme the boards great, its taken no time at all to get used to, well pleased. I did pm you but think it was just before the site crash.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 09:41:11 am
Glad to here it. I thought it would be good for you as its a great board, short but with a good bit of width and thickness where its needed to get you into waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 24, 2010, 10:07:47 am
Quote
It looks as though I'd be better heading to Croyde or somewhere nearby but I'm put off by stories of packed waves.

Too much north in the wind today for Croyde to be any good, if you were to head down this way you'll be better off heading to the south coast where the wind'll be offshore.  Not much shelter from north winds on the north coast, a little bit of protection at Saunton and Polzeath. 

Croyde can get very busy, particularly at weekends when warriors and stuntmen arrive from all over.  The standard of surfing is very high and the regulars are very 'competitive'.  So it can be a game of patience for newbies and visitors to get a wave off the pack (who take off late and deep).  However, at low-tide Croyde can be an epic beach break with heaps of power and barrels (this can be very dangerous, scarey and intimidating if you're not used to it).  You could get the wave of your life or you could get the flogging of your life. Usual rules apply DON'T drop in (always check over your shoulder), show respect, don't snake and all will be fine.

I will be mostly walking into a rarely ridden right hand point break that should be turning on the magic and high tide this evening. Fingers crossed we don't get skunked :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 12:25:14 pm
I've never actually surfed Croyde (actually I think I did once, but it was v late on a weekday). Other beaches in the area better suited to non-experts IMO>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 24, 2010, 03:03:52 pm
just got back from a blowout of white water and ridiculous northern winds.  It was at best unsurfable and dangerous.  Couple of hidden spots ill check tonight, tomorrow on the other hand... everything is in the pipe to be somewhat clean
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 03:11:36 pm
N Sea is looking lively for sure, standby in holding position, keep watching the wind. Swoop when the time is right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 24, 2010, 07:04:42 pm
Anyone surfed Bridlington? Visiting folks in NE Lincs tmr and looking to find nearest place with some shelter from wind/swell.

Am I better off just heading straight to Filey?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 08:38:24 pm
Probes.
Where you heading. I am off to a certain,black, spot in river mouth up north that loves this swell  Don't know where your based.
In a blue bilbo transporter.
Always cool to hook up.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 09:14:49 pm
Anyone surfed Bridlington? Visiting folks in NE Lincs tmr and looking to find nearest place with some shelter from wind/swell.

Never been, but I would have thought Bridlington would have been a bit too sheltered. Faces South doesn't it? This isn't deep groundswell, so doubt it will do much wrapping around.

I think.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 09:44:47 pm
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 25, 2010, 06:35:22 pm
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.

Northern winds again destroyed today, went in at sland pier for an hour but it was again a wash out.  im thinking low tide when the wind dies might create something cleaner. 

Was thinking slightly further south with another pier and harbour in mind for tomorrow but ill see what happens.  im based in sunderland and tomorrow im going to look for more sheltered spots.  Whats your plans gme
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 25, 2010, 07:06:44 pm
philo.
Great session at middens this morning. head high and A little bigger on sets. Hard work as usual paddling against an outgoing tide and a river.
Then got a nice beach session at seaton point up north. Usually a heap of crap wave but always gives out on storm swells like this and I can see it from my house so no driving. 
Good day allround.
Family stuff tomorrow so probably not surf. Winds look shit with a bit of east in them.
Monday potentially better. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 27, 2010, 10:01:26 am
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.

Was thinking that was a bit too stranger friendly? :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 28, 2010, 01:49:12 pm
Any good punts for the weekend? considering jumping on a cheap'ish' flight on friday evening.
 Back from three years in Aus and despite being a british national yet to surf over here! Any recommendations for a weekend hit?
 im going nuts in London
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 28, 2010, 02:27:22 pm
There's a blast from the past. Can't believe it's 3 years already. I still got your Miki Dora book, do you want it back?

SW looks good. Putsborough would be where I put my money for a weekend blast from London.

Hope you got a useable wetsuit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 28, 2010, 09:46:58 pm
 ;D hahha.... no worries. yep i need to get hold of something warm eh. not sure my aussie 3x2 will cut it. In fact im not sure i can cut it.
was thinking about Ireland.....MSW has lots of stars. Its all i have got at the mo in the way of knowledge :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 28, 2010, 10:46:53 pm
3 years!!!


bloody hell mate  :hug:

good to hear from you  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 29, 2010, 08:52:19 am
 ;D :beer2: Time zips by! Just got back a few of weeks a go. The locum /surf travel dream had to end at some point. I very nearly got sucked into the
 vortex of jungle surf where weeks simply drift by. A dangerous however quite pleasurable path to have trodden... ( for a time)..
 
Fat doc i have noted your frequency of posts on this 'surfer' forum :), tell me your surfing regularly...... beer? surf weekend up north?
 How are tricks at ches vegas?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 29, 2010, 08:53:14 am
God i sound like Machado
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 29, 2010, 09:20:10 am
God i sound like Machado

You wish.

I thought you were after a weekend hit. If you got time on your hands head for County Claire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 29, 2010, 10:54:03 am
Any good punts for the weekend? considering jumping on a cheap'ish' flight on friday evening.
 Back from three years in Aus and despite being a british national yet to surf over here! Any recommendations for a weekend hit?
 im going nuts in London

Your local spot would be The Witterings...  Should be classic this weekend :whistle:

If you're gonna jump on a flight, Ireland's gotta be a good call for the weekend.  France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...

SW UK will be OK but looks like you will need to seek shelter from the wind which is gonna be shifting around Southerly SouthWesterly all weekend.


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 29, 2010, 12:08:34 pm
France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...

The whole country? Never realised they were that popular ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 29, 2010, 02:02:02 pm
haha... im not sure sounding like Machado is a good thing.  Im certainly at the other end of the spectrum on the style? front as well.  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 29, 2010, 11:10:17 pm
;D :beer2: Time zips by! Just got back a few of weeks a go. The locum /surf travel dream had to end at some point. I very nearly got sucked into the
 vortex of jungle surf where weeks simply drift by. A dangerous however quite pleasurable path to have trodden... ( for a time)..
 
Fat doc i have noted your frequency of posts on this 'surfer' forum :), tell me your surfing regularly...... beer? surf weekend up north?
 How are tricks at ches vegas?

no fuckin idea what you & chris have just communicated in the last few posts ben!!

I'm a middle aged sponger, shite and proud  ;D

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 30, 2010, 10:40:51 am
Cloudbreak September 2010 (http://vimeo.com/15181963)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2010, 10:47:41 am
I would fill my pants. Both ways.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 30, 2010, 12:30:35 pm
Quote
I'm a middle aged sponger, shite and proud
:lol:  Brilliant!  The only way is up... Step 1)Middle aged sponger that charges Step 2) Middle aged sponger does drop knee 3) Middle age sponger realises standing up is much more fun.....

Just one thing, in the meantime, would you, PLEASE, get out the fecking way.  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris j on October 02, 2010, 07:08:39 pm
First time out on the surfboard in a long, long time today. Morning session at Putsborough, 4ftish, pretty clean. Probably caught more waves today than in all the last 5 years  :) Even managed to stand up on one or two. Memo to self though, must put more wax on the board...

Looking good for tomorrow too  :bounce:

Just wanted to share...  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 02, 2010, 07:23:07 pm
Waking over to Baggy for a few routes at low tide, then catching Puts on the push used to be one of my favourite days out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 03, 2010, 09:48:34 pm
Quote
First time out on the surfboard in a long, long time today. Morning session at Putsborough, 4ftish, pretty clean. Probably caught more waves today than in all the last 5 years   Even managed to stand up on one or two. Memo to self though, must put more wax on the board...

Yep it was certainly pumping Saturday if you could find shelter from the Southerlies, P-Land wasn't the only place firing on Saturday either. :great:   Shame the wind ruined things today...

And the charts for the foreseeable are :jaw:

Love midweek mornings after 9am in the autumn/ winter; No weekend warriors, the dawn patrollers have gone to work, have a go hero tourists have gone home, the roads are quiet, water's still warm ish and the swells keep coming... best time of year!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 04, 2010, 02:51:02 am
i agree with that, although theres a certain satisfaction sitting on your board waiting for the sets to come in when its 6.30 and your the only person anywhere near the beach


edit:

on beach breaks has anyone had any issues with fisherman?  Couple milling about near the rocky side of tynemouth the other day with at least a dozen in the water.  Must scare the fish away so they cant be happy really.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2010, 09:00:07 am
There have been a few fishing at Banff in the past when we have gone in. They were really friendly though, and not at all bothered about us scaring the fish away. Even offered to look after car keys for us. Just chatted to them to get an idea of where they were casting and stayed out the way of their lines. They offered to move up the beach a bit, but wern't cating onto the main peak anyway.

Managed to get a great hour in just before dark yesterday. Only one other person in the water, the wind had dropped completely and there were some nice longboard waves coming in. Got about half a dozen great rights in before it got too dark, then just sat out the back for a bit just feeling the swells and looking at Aberdeen lit up against the night sky. Then got a bit paranoid and rode a wave back to shore.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on October 04, 2010, 09:11:43 am
If you're gonna jump on a flight, Ireland's gotta be a good call for the weekend.  France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...

Not just heaving with people, have you seen some of the footage from the Quiky?  even Slater was struggling to get out back. Absolutely macking, I'd have been firmly enscounced in the cafe de la plage I think..

nice waves at a sheltered spot here Saturday, air temperature cooling but the sea still lovely in a summer suit
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris j on October 04, 2010, 03:46:20 pm
Quote
And the charts for the foreseeable are :jaw:

Love midweek mornings after 9am in the autumn/ winter; No weekend warriors, the dawn patrollers have gone to work, have a go hero tourists have gone home, the roads are quiet, water's still warm ish and the swells keep coming... best time of year!!



Tuesday looks a little big & scary for me but somewhere sheltered for Weds and then Thurs looks mellow  :)

Got to agree, best time of year for hitting the beaches, no crowds, easy parking, warm water...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 04, 2010, 07:29:48 pm
Any good recommendations for winter suits then- to go fixed hood or not?
 Any personal recommendations much appreciated.
Reality is im looking at long weekends- ireland, scotland and europe/morocco (reckon my 3/2 will cover me for the warmer climes)-
really just chasing good waves as a weekend warrior quick hits with cheap/late flights...... man im missing living next to the beach :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2010, 07:34:19 pm
I've got an XCEL Infiniti O Zip (got on sale, can't afford full whack!) which I wear together with a XCEL hooded polypro rash vest on really cold days.

Keeps me toasty even when air temp is hanging around zero. Nice and flexible too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 04, 2010, 07:58:55 pm
Anyone tried the Patagucci ones yet? Spiel sounds impressive...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2010, 08:40:22 pm
Couple of blokes on MSW forum have got them and rave about them, but at the price you would hope they be good. I would love to get one, but with an "unconventional" body shape, would be loathe to shell out 400 buying something on the tinterweb I haven't actually tried on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 04, 2010, 10:14:25 pm
Got a reduced price kwiksliva ignite 6/5 during the summer built in hood chest zip jobbiee for when it gets baltic, I always buy outta season to get a bargain.  Alas_ I have yet to test this out but it looks nice and doesn't smell of piss (yet).
Like climbing shoes, I reckon wetsuits are pretty much of muchness, pay for quality and you'll get quality infact anything high range from the main manufacturers will perform.  Fit is important and finding the brand that fits you (unless you're buying a measured to fit such as SNUGG) is half the battle.
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 04, 2010, 11:25:14 pm
Anyone tried the Patagucci ones yet? Spiel sounds impressive...

oooh they do look nice...... i had a fondle down at the patagonia store in Torquay. The merino wool lining tripped me out  abit. i could not get round the thought of an itchy school jumper! That said.. lovely idea, nature often does stuff best.
 but a little outta my budget at the mo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2010, 08:53:12 am
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!

I hear what you are saying, but depends how long it lasts and how well it performs? If you can get all the warmth without the extra weigth and still have the flexibility it's got to be pretty valuable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on October 05, 2010, 10:27:08 am
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!

I hear what you are saying, but depends how long it lasts and how well it performs? If you can get all the warmth without the extra weigth and still have the flexibility it's got to be pretty valuable.

plus don't they have the "cast iron guarantee" like the rest of their stuff? Send it back 18 months down the line when you've ragged a seam and get a brand new one. . .
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 05, 2010, 11:09:50 am
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!

It also partly depends one where you live and surf throughout the winter months  :)

I've got an Excel Infiniti Hooded Drylock 5:4 that's toasty warm. That said, (and before GME and Dave get it in ) I've turned into a right fair weather surfer and rarely venture into the water unless I'm in boardshorts and sunscreen.  :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2010, 11:41:43 am
Curly Ben, you didn't say if you want the Miki Dora book back. I can either post it back to you or pass it on to any other UKBers who want to read it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Paul B on October 05, 2010, 11:46:42 am
Didn't know if this might interest some of you.

52-camera rig setup catches surfing moments http://cot.ag/c5QAAq (http://cot.ag/c5QAAq)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Durbs on October 05, 2010, 11:50:53 am
Also - Boston Globe have this today:
http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html (http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2010, 12:03:06 pm
Also - Boston Globe have this today:
http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html (http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html)

Great set of images, the dog in pic 22 looks very unhappy, I know that feeling sometimes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 05, 2010, 10:27:26 pm
Curly Ben, you didn't say if you want the Miki Dora book back. I can either post it back to you or pass it on to any other UKBers who want to read it?

pass it on if someone would like to read it. all good
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 09:26:06 am
Will do. Anyone want to read it, FD, do you still want to?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Few-Perfect-Waves-Audacious/dp/0224075861/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286353495&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Few-Perfect-Waves-Audacious/dp/0224075861/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286353495&sr=8-1)

PM me with an address and I will post it on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2010, 09:47:56 am
Now't special but my brother snapped this at the weekend whilst down in Tramore surfing himself (although I'm hoping this is before/after he was in the water as he had my lens :P)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5046922350_a7d3db67db_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gpshephard/5046922350/)Surfing (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gpshephard/5046922350/#)
 by gpshephard (http://www.flickr.com/people/gpshephard/), on Flickr
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 12:02:09 pm
Thinking of heading down to Woolacombe/Puts/Bude tomorrow.  How's it looking given my beginner status??  MS reports messy at the moment but possibly improving over the weekend as the wind shifts round to the east?  Help!   ::)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 12:21:33 pm
I would say it would be fine for you. I would have a look at Suanton, which I expect will be absolutely heaving (look down from parking on cliff edge) and if it is head over to Woolacombe, head south down the bech until you find a quieter peak and enjoy the day there. Croyde (and often Puts) are a bit heavier and are often busier with better surfers.

IMO of course. I'm sure the local will be along shortly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 12:31:48 pm
Thanks Chris!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 06, 2010, 01:02:34 pm
Crantock rules outright when its like this... i had a very fortunate day about 3 yr ago with about 8 hours solid of these, like clockwork every ten minutes, you were getting barrelled when you didnt even want it, didnt leave the water all day  ;D

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/185356.jpg)

enjoy
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 02:33:22 pm
Ermmmm, once again showing my ignorance.  I've picked up from a number of sources that some breaks work better at different stages of the tide.  So, is there a general rule here?  If I'm going to Woolacombe or Putsborough, and low tide is bang in the middle of the day, when are the best conditions likely to be?   :please: :shrug:

Yeah, could have phrased all that better I'm sure  :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 06, 2010, 02:56:21 pm
John, a good rule of thumb, the way i look at places before i ve sussed out exactly what happens and generally speaking anywya is most beach breaks are heavier at low tide (the result of steeper sea bed) and most breaks are nicest on the dropping tide.
As i remember puts picks more swell (it seems to rap in quite well) and is really quite fast at low tide, woolacombe is more chilled and works ok right throughtout the whole tide, and doesnt change its character very much.
...i think, im sure Chris will put me right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 02:58:31 pm
AFAIK, Woolacombe is fine at any tide and I know Puts there are some rocks you can do with avoiding at high tide, but generally due to the big tide difference in the Bristol Channel, the N Devon Breaks are best surfed on a rising tide (the "push") as this can add half a foot or so to the swell size. So best conditions are most likely to be after the low tide, but if waves are big enough it's unlikely to make much difference.

But I can c