[Serpico]

I use the shouldavegoneweeksago rule. ie: when it's obvious that it's not going to clear up on it's own, and that it's in fact got worse.
If in doubt, get it checked out.

[(woz)]

Would a specialist be able to do anything about it, rather than just reccomend time off?

[Serpico]

Would a specialist be able to do anything about it, rather than just reccomend time off?

You'd hopefully get an accurate diagnosis, so you'll at least know what you're dealing with and what the most appropriate treatment is eg; transverse frictions, ibuprofen, stretching, ultra sound, rest. Some of those might make the situation worse depending on what you've actually done.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Can you recommend any physio's in particular who know about fingers? reckon i could get work's BUPA to cover it?


cheers
Tim

[Fiend]

I have a very strict and scientific training schedule:

Climb routes outdoors whenever possible.

Climb routes or bouldering indoors when the weather's crap, depending on what I feel like.

Rest in between.

...it's hardcore...

[fatdoc]

i have a 50+ hr job, family and all the trappings of late 30s life - I eat too much, too well, have little self control with alcohol and yet in 12weeks since re-starting climbing i'm back on and making progress on my old bouldering nemesis(s)....

12 weeks from nothing: i wasnt unfit though, my cardio fitness is pretty good at the mo.

Fatdoc's steps to climbing rehabilitation: DONT DIET

- build a very small very easy board, that your 5 year old son can just climb.... travel around the board using strict time intervals.
- every 2 weeks buy some more holds and make the board harder and vaguely interesting.
- extend the board out into the roof of the garage -old school cellar stylee.
- buy a moon fingerboard, despite the fact you cant hang off any of the crimps.

Get a schedule together:
mon: playstation night in
tues: boards session, specific set of pyrimidal problems, repeat set twice. then fingerboard session... whole thing no more than 90 mins... you have to motor! OR get forced to the Edge by mates...
wed: cardio (XC mtb)
thurs: now...... its climbingworks, before it was titing about on the board trying to find some harder moves
fri: get pissed
sat /  sun: get pissed or climb on grit (bouldering only) as family and work allow.

the sole intention of the above was to get fit enough to then train properly (fingerboard, locks, campus) and I'm now able to do just that.

So, even after 4 years off you can get back really quite fast... i thought it was gonna take 6 months! and dont get me wrong here, font 7a / + only at the mo..nothing startling. but it does seem to show that if yr cardio fit the relearning / recruitment and finger strength can come back.

[saltbeef]

, just a little every day.  Long warm ups/downs.  Good rest between problems.  

so you warm up, and then warm down?

and as for the fingerboard thing, i find i can half crimp the small holds on the moon fingerboard, but can't full crimp them, how does that work?

[Adam Lincoln]

Can you recommend any physio's in particular who know about fingers? reckon i could get work's BUPA to cover it?

Have you mentioned it to Steve. He is pretty good at diagnosing that kind of stuff. Once diagnosed, you can then decide on best action to getting it fixed. As serpico said.

[fatdoc]

, just a little every day.  Long warm ups/downs.  Good rest between problems.  

so you warm up, and then warm down?

and as for the fingerboard thing, i find i can half crimp the small holds on the moon fingerboard, but can't full crimp them, how does that work?

i'm now half crimping the holds, and i can use all the holds

just!

[saltbeef]

are you typing with your toes?

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Can you recommend any physio's in particular who know about fingers? reckon i could get work's BUPA to cover it?

Have you mentioned it to Steve. He is pretty good at diagnosing that kind of stuff. Once diagnosed, you can then decide on best action to getting it fixed. As serpico said.

To be honest mate i was more interested in the hypothetical how do you know when hard training is hurting good  8)rather than hurting bad . (With regards to fingers that is).

(Ste was up at the weekend incidentally with a tweaked finger of his own.) I think some intense ibuprofen/ice treatment/message is possibly best and a couple of weeks swapping to indoor routes based training rather than indoor bouldering or power based training.

Cheers
tim

[Nibile]

now im having some kind of rest.
tue hard session on plastic, thur real bouldering, trying to stay fit and nurse a finger.
friday big comp, due to shitty weather coming (surfs up).
then its work time again til the end of 2006.
three sessions per week, one fingerboard, one plastic, one campus (yes yeah i know my rungs are short, thats why i stripped them down to half the width)

last session was campusing, just a little power recall:
3-1-7 (start both hands on 3 at 90°, drop one down on 1, and then lunge with same hand as high as you can) 4 sets each arm, 5' rest.
1-4-7 with 4kg on, 4 sets each arm, 5' rest.
ice.

the guru e-mailed next weeks' schedule, and im scared.

[Monolith]

Mon-Board
Tues-Bored
Wed-Board
Thur-Board
Fri-Board then Beer
Sat-Dream about climbing outside.
Sun-Board then dreaming up this coming years country to run off to.

[Paul B]

i've had my fair share of A2 injuries and niggles and one thing ive learned is rest is best (oooh thats cheesy). You have to be ridiculously disciplined in order to not aggrivate A2 injuries.

The question is how do you know if its hurting good or hurting bad? Why is it hurting at all? Stop strong, it seriously works, maybe you should ache a bit the next day but to be honest I only ever get really intense muscle soreness doing bench press after a while off.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

The question is how do you know if its hurting good or hurting bad? Why is it hurting at all? Stop strong, it seriously works, maybe you should ache a bit the next day but to be honest I only ever get really intense muscle soreness doing bench press after a while off.

Aye but my query was strictly in relation to tendon/connective tissue soreness rather than muscle soreness. Muscle soreness is always good. and I spent enough time weight training before i started climbing to know my bodies response to such stimulus and how much it can handle .

So how much do would you rest after establishing you have a A2 niggle. i.e. not stopping you from climbing and no obvious pain whilst climbing. But sore afterwards when applying pressure to said finger's a2 region.

Cheers
Tim

[Paul B]

I had a very similar niggle to the one you described recently, I stopped long enough for any sign of pain to go away and then started back at a much lower intensity for the same amount of time, it sorted itself out.
With regards tendon's and connective tissue soreness I dont think any is good! maybe slightly stiff fingers the day after, therefore showing you've worked them but never actual discomfort.

[Nibile]

so today i start back some training.
in the evening itll be fingerboard: static-dinamic pull-ups. you pull, lock at 90° for 3 seconds, then complete the pull-up. you come downa using a step (this is really a genius tip: avoiding the negative has helped me alot in staying injury free).
3 max reps, 6 sets, 5 minutes rest.

i also started taking glucosamine-condroitine pills twice a day.

[saltbeef]

Fatdoc's steps to climbing rehabilitation: DONT EAT CHESTNUTS

[a dense loner]

don't amuse me so

[fatdoc]

Fatdoc's steps to climbing rehabilitation: DONT EAT CHESTNUTS

now: i have many vices, and that one has never got in the way of ANYTHING, try it - you'll not be disappointed - in any way shape or form!   

[Nibile]

yesterday i completely wasted a trip to the gym, that means around 15 euros of petrol, 150 km drive, 6 euros entry.
i was very tired from monday training, a bit concerned about my finger and in general unable to pull.
plus, the new setting politics after the comp seem to have raised the bar. like to the athmosphere.
fuck.

[Dr T]

static-dinamic pull-ups. you pull, lock at 90° for 3 seconds, then complete the pull-up. you come downa using a step (this is really a genius tip: avoiding the negative has helped me alot in staying injury free).
3 max reps, 6 sets, 5 minutes rest.

like these one nibs... 

[Nibile]

yes i like them too even if im currently doing more dinamic pulls, not to strain elbows in the lock off.

you would also like tomorrow schedule for campusing:
A)
start with one hand on 1 and lock off one armed 4 secs
match with left on 1, then throw up either at the highest rung (also just touching) or at an intermediate, then at the highest.
three times per arm alternated.
4 sets, 4 mins rest.

B)
both hands on 1
go to 3 (or more) with left and lock off for 4 secs.
then match with right hand and immediately go again with right as high as you can
twice per arm, 4 sets, 4 mins rest.

enjoy.

[james]

you guys seem to do a lot of training Makes me feel a bit useless

[unclesomebody]

as if... you secret trainer you....