[Paz]

no thanks mate

[a dense loner]

a man with taste. i like a challenge...

[webbo]

nice to see you two have got things back in perspective.

[SA Chris]

Sometimes it's just a better use of your time to try a problem that you actually get to do some climbing on, whether you do it or not, than one that you spend all your time sat on your mat throwing everything you can think of at it and getting nowhere.  All you're doing is training failure.  There's more than one reason the best place for the crux is at the top.  Maybe I'm just trying problems that are technically too hard for me, but this in itself is solved by a piece of training SCIENCE - drop your load and increase your volume (maybe I should say lower the load - the difficulty, before someone starts - but feel free to use piece of advice in other areas of your life).  If you try longer problems, like traverses, or longer up problems, or basic problems, dynos even, where you can try `the' move, you can feel like you're improving from go to go.  I hesitate to say you feel like you're training, but the fact of the matter is you will improve - and as a bonus it keeps you warm in winter. 

Paz, I would have thought this was elemental (and obvious) to training? You need to set yourself achievable goals. Little point in going and spending weeks trying an 8a prob when you are climbing 6c. You will benefit more in the long run from doing a few 7as 7bs and 7cs along the way, and get a lot more enjoyment from it, than plugging away at an 8a until you get it when all that means is you have one 8a prob you can do and then spend forever trying another one. Or is that stating the obvious.

If you wanted to train for big walls, there's nothing stopping you heading down to Bosigran or Dewerstone and trying to tick as many of the classics as you can in a day to build up the stamina and the rock knowledge. There's some good big wall stuff in the Alps too; Chamonix, Handegg, the Pyrenees where you can escape the crowds if you choose your routes right. Then spend time in the Valley, or better yet the Eastern Sierras to escape the crowds.

I kind of feel like I'm stating the obvious though? 

[Paz]

Does big wall granite really have that much in common with that of Devon and Cornwall in how it climbs?  The last time I tried that `trainers on and do lots of easy routes fast with a ruck sack' for the alps thing I fell off.  Not that I personally think this is a bad thing, but isn't all that European stuff bolted, or more or less, equipped?

You're talking sense, but you might be answering `what's the best thing to do on a font trip' whereas I'm justifiying what the best thing to do with my current 2 or 3 annual good winter grit days is.  I was wondering more about the types of problems to try, rather than the grades.  Whether it's doing some climbing as part of working a problem instead of floundering on your arse, or doing lots of easier problems at first to get your skills before working your way up, (even though I've called it doing climbing too, as opposed to only failing) I think we're both saying mileage is the key.

[SA Chris]

Having not been done any big walls I can't really say a definitive "yes", but if you choose your routes I don't think it's far off. I know for a fact though, that very little of the Alpine stuff is bolted and a lot of it is climbing long cracks on rock of similar quality. One of the peaks has a section called Little Yosemite for a reason.

For the second part, I'm not sure if we are both agreeing to the same thing.

[Nibile]

ok, today ill test the real thing soundtrack at the campusboard.

 

[Nibile]

before you ask the answer is yes, that campusboard with ridiculously close rungs.

[Nibile]

im absolutely smashed.
im glad im already at home.
i hope i can lift the pan for cooking.
holy f***!!!

[mireeves]

Mon - Bouldering
Tues - Bouldering plus one hour of skipping
Wed - Bouldering
Thu - Bouldering plus one hour of skipping
Fri - Bouldering plus 5 hours of drinking
Sat - Bouldering plus drug-taking and 6 hours of twitching like a spastic to grinding beats
Sun - Bouldering plus one hour of skipping

Hope this helps.

Bolox.

Surely you mean
monday-arsing about
tuesday-ranting
wednesday-moidering
thursday-squawking
friday-drinking
saturday-dancing
sunday-church!

[Bonjoy]

wednesday-moidering

Is that irish for mithering, or bronx for murdering?

[Nibile]

to be precise:
- long warmup
- 317, three times per arm alternated L/R, 4 sets, 6 minutes rest;
- long rest
- 147, two times normal and two times with 4 kg, 5 minutes rest.

today deadhangs.
tomorrow surfing. (you need to have fun sometimes!!!)