[dave]

We tried Hacienda last year and thought it was one of those that looked better than it is. Basically all the way up your right hand is in a crack which when climbed on it's own is a few grades lower than Hacienda. Which kind of makes Hacienda in effect a bit eliminate. Plus we got shut down on it, and you know how problems you get shut down on are shit?

Anyway, having done a few things on the other bit I won't be going back in a hurry. Also found that Red Clover a bit dabby, but a really great problem is the Red Clover sitstart moves then climb up the prow into the start holds of Gene then finish up this, which is about 7c and knockout.

[36chambers]

but a really great problem is the Red Clover sitstart moves then climb up the prow into the start holds of Gene then finish up this, which is about 7c and knockout.

My thoughts exactly.

[turnipturned]

Hacienda; yeah I couldn't touch it for about 30mins, and thought it didn't climb very nicely. A bit wide and didn't flow. But then I sussed it out and did it twice for camera and it felt really nice. One of those I guess. Supergene is cool, but I guess it's a bit eliminate.

[Sasquatch]

You're not allowed to talk bout "getting old" at 28...

Love the series-keep it up.  Interview some other folks too

[turnipturned]

Haha, mid 20's crisis.

Thanks, Freemo twin episode coming soon.

[willackers]

Some more Perth granite. This one's a really cool boulder, even if it does bite a little 

[monkoffunk]

Really excellent problem at Sand Point. Fantastic moves in fantastic location; just a shame there is not much else there! First of the grade for me so very happy. Someone has put 7C on UKC for some reason but it most definitely isn't.

[Duma]

Interesting - I did this many years ago around the same time as Tombstone in Cheddar - didn't feel much different IIRC. That said, I'm pretty sure we did the big move in the middle from a LH sidepull rather than what looks like decent undercuts - these may have appeared since?

Decent problem anyway

[monkoffunk]

I think the holds were there, Mark did it same way as me from the undercuts in 2015 and thought 7B, and Ian thought 7B in 2013. Think there are harder ways to do it though!

[remus]

Interesting - I did this many years ago around the same time as Tombstone in Cheddar - didn't feel much different IIRC. That said, I'm pretty sure we did the big move in the middle from a LH sidepull rather than what looks like decent undercuts - these may have appeared since?

Decent problem anyway

As hard as tombstone?! They're about 3 grades apart!

[Duma]

 

you lot just have shite PE and cant squeeze

 

[remus]

And you're obviously not very good at hanging around on jugs 

[monkoffunk]

I've not tried Tombstone but seen the videos and like to give it a go some time!

[Duma]

Really?! do it - best thing round here by a way imo

[Eth]

Was playing on this on Monday. Same start as Mr Funk, but using a small crimp and a tiny two finger slot on the seaward face for right hand, with small incuts on the opposite side for left hand to compress my way toward the big jug. Got this beta off a video on the net and feels hard for me (have only climbed 7B+). Was with a very strong climber on the day who did it with this beta and reckoned it just got in as 7C.
Given me something of a dilemma now as was going to project this as my first 7C.....if there's easier beta do I sack it off?? 

[monkoffunk]

Ha, well you can climb it with whack beta but that doesn't mean it's that hard. Still graded for easiest beta...

[monkoffunk]

For context this is my first 7B and it didn't feel much harder then the recent 7A+s I've done. I haven't done many 7A+.

[Sasquatch]

I can't believe it starts with a bathang  

[Eth]

Meh, I'll stick to the original 'whack' beta - feels right at my limit but doable, I've done all but one move. It's a good problem nonetheless and I'll have fun working it (yes I'm a masochist).

[monkoffunk]

Dude totally. Should climb it because it's an awesome problem and really fun. It's not all about grades, no doubt you'll do 7C some time.

[205Chris]

V1 to V10 at Castle Hill. Mostly shaky hand cam footage.

Also featuring a one legged duck.

[user deactivated]

Nice set of problems there Chris!

Warning

Keeping it seriously non quality I made this earlier in the year  with a dodgy old digital camera. All a bit experimental it was sort of meant to try and capture the feel of the day 'in my head'

Watch this video on Vimeo: . Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios

[Wood FT]

You really need some Adam Curtis narrative over that Dan, lovely stuff

[user deactivated]

Thanks Guy, I've never heard of him until now but like the idea of 'hypernormalization' Ill definitely check it out. I'm quite into listening to 'waking up' with Sam Harris at the moment some great ideas to get my head around while walking the dog

[Wood FT]

Just checking that out - Can you recommend a particular one you enjoyed?