Michael Reardon on grit onsighting mission (Read 37218 times)

irish si · October 31, 2006, 01:31:19 am

so some interesting stuff.....

Ricky bell has just turned up at my house for a week or so. Ricky bell to those of you who do not know is a very reputable climber with a string of first ascents and repeats up to E8/9 all over the place. He bumped into reardon at squamish few weeks ago as he was giving a slide show.

During the slide show reardon showed various pictures including one of him on the jug at the start of end of the affair and the shot of him on rampart/soledoubt and a shot of him on masters edge just off the ground. He told the crowd of 150 people at least that these shots were of him ABOVE the cruxes on all the routes. He said that he onsighted the routes but had to downclimb through the cruxes becasue the top easy sections where wet. HE TOLD THIS TO THE CROWD INFRONT OF RICKY BELL AND VARIOUS OTHER IRISH PEOPLE. It was very embarrasing.

The hardest route he did in ireland was an E5 called blockhead at the burren. He top roped the route to death then soloed it. Bare in mind that I onsighted this route when i was a child. The route is probably e4. The crux is 8 foot protected by an rp of the ground followed by the rest of the route which is no more than VS.

Now where the fuck are all the routes upto 13 X that reardon sprays about on his websight.

Michael reardon sprayed a complete load of embarrassing bullshit, depending on who he is talking to or where he is lecturing. Im gonna be so syked if he brings his lying gritstone tour to boulder colorado.

irish si · October 31, 2006, 01:33:37 am

just of note

ricky bell has just informed me that his mother did sunset slab

mark · October 31, 2006, 09:23:20 am

Quote from: irish si on October 31, 2006, 01:31:19 am

... the crowd of 150 people at least ...

Jeebus! That's a lot of people turning up to hear bollocks. Does no-one at these lectures give him any grief?

Dr T · October 31, 2006, 10:24:31 am

Quote from: mark on October 31, 2006, 09:23:20 am

Jeebus! That's a lot of people turning up to hear bollocks.

Maybe he should do a UK lecture tour with Si O'Conner

Fiend · October 31, 2006, 10:45:36 am

Okay so what about the stuff in Return To Sender??

mark · October 31, 2006, 10:51:52 am

Haven't seen it. What does he do in that?

Andy_P · October 31, 2006, 01:07:38 pm

Quote from: Dylan on October 29, 2006, 12:05:55 am

I applaud you Grimer

Me too. You must have a diploma in diplomacy.

grimer · October 31, 2006, 05:24:31 pm

I remember watching the photographer taking pics of him on the 5b crack at the start of Rampart, as he went up and down loads of times. I jusk knew where the pic was going, you could almost see the caption.

Mick Ryan · October 31, 2006, 07:19:18 pm

Quote from: Fiend on October 31, 2006, 10:45:36 am

Okay so what about the stuff in Return To Sender??

Is that at Malibu Creek? If you've been to Malibu Creek.....(where they filmed Planet of the Apes and Mash)...let's just say I've soloed 5.11 there.

dom · October 31, 2006, 08:14:17 pm

Quote from: Fiend on October 31, 2006, 10:45:36 am

Okay so what about the stuff in Return To Sender??

its not very impressive, he soloes some 5.11s (F6c or something) and does a 5.10 at joshua tree. I don't get how people get all excited about these climbs when half the people climbing have soloed these kind of grades at some point.

At the end i think he solos a 12c (7b+) sport route, and the caption says 'First solo of this route' like its something people aspire to do, it a fucking sport route, it has bolts there to protect it, i don't get why anyone would want to solo it, it looked pretty shit.

The movie doesn't talk about how mch practice he's had on the routes but by the fact theres qds at the top of the routes at malibu creek i'm guessing he practiced them on top-rope first.

I just don't get what the fuss is about 8b and 8b+ have been soloed by other people, thats impressive, this guy is way off the pace. He's totally hypocritical talking about how you have to solo for the right reasons otherwise your going to have an accident, hen he's obviously doing it for the media attention. it almost makes me wish he had an accident.

nicely written article by the way grimer.

Paul B · November 01, 2006, 02:21:47 pm

did ricky put up with that shite si? I hope not.

i'd say its time for you boys to take a trip TO one of his lectures to sort this debacle out.

(ps - grit weather is good, -2 at burbage this morning at 7 bet you wish you were here

)

Idol eyes · November 01, 2006, 07:21:13 pm

So Warm Love has been repeated? this is, for sure the greatest os going, someone point this guy at London Wall. sorry, on second thoughts do not...

Houdini · November 01, 2006, 11:52:33 pm

I take it that the ascent of Warm Love has been captured on video? I don't believe that this yankee punter is telling the truth.

In fact! I put it to you Sir, that you are a liar and I challenge you (Motherfucker) to prove me wrong. Go!

Houdini · November 02, 2006, 07:45:53 am

Ah! The perils of posting after going on the lash... I'd like to scratch that comment about your mother. But RE Warm Love, if you are going to talk-the-talk then you really should walk-the-walk & prove it. (In a pigs' eye!)

(Assuming you read this drivvel...)

Idol eyes · November 02, 2006, 10:07:04 am

Tell me about it, been on a bender recently, and am totaly cringing about the pimping stuff in france thread. Been hanging out with the wrong crowd and been subject to much "pay to play" girl action, thought i would share it with the climbing lot and now wish i had not, will make my last post today and hope every one forgets about it. There are loads of prozzers at Bas Cuvier though...

Idol eyes · November 02, 2006, 10:16:16 am

Oh yeah, this "taking the mick Readon" guy, Hes a photo slut so he should have his proof, There are things that are unbelivable, If Jonny Brown, or one or two members of his crew had claimed an os asscent, it would go without saying that the hype would be buzzing and there would be no doubt.
I am totaly out of touch with the scene, however i have worked this route and will say this much, it is totally condition dependant and i would love to know the temp on the day he sent the second asscent of one of the last great taboo routes....

Bonjoy · November 02, 2006, 10:59:29 am

Whatever happen to that innocent young dancer?

Idol eyes · November 02, 2006, 11:15:51 am

I take it thats me on the right...

Idol eyes · November 02, 2006, 11:17:44 am

sorry, i ment on the left, shit now i am confused.

Nibile · November 02, 2006, 11:57:13 am

the motto on his website "lifes short play hard" was an old reebok advert featuring patrick de gaillardon sky surfing.
anyone remember?

Falling Down · November 02, 2006, 01:00:20 pm

Quote from: Houdini on November 01, 2006, 11:52:33 pm

I take it that the ascent of Warm Love has been captured on video? I don't believe that this yankee punter is telling the truth.

In fact! I put it to you Sir, that you are a liar and I challenge you (Motherfucker) to prove me wrong. Go!

I called him a liar on the UKC thread... he responded sometime later and I couldn't be arsed replying.

Nibile · November 02, 2006, 01:48:14 pm

doesnt the pic of him climbing the stautue seem a bit strage, like the left arm/hand?
seems pasted.

dr blowfin · November 02, 2006, 01:48:31 pm

http://www.climbing.ie/cgi-bin/cieyabb/YaBB.pl?num=1160047343/15#15

reardon's reply on climbing.ie

Houdini · November 02, 2006, 06:55:59 pm

If it does turn out to be true that he OS soled WL then I'll kiss his arse, his mothers' arse and if she's still alive, his grans' arse too.

Can't say fairer than that...

Idol eyes · November 02, 2006, 07:36:38 pm

No mention of warm love. this guy seems to be covering tracks. I do not care about any of the other bully, only the claim of this route.
I am not a bitter person but i would claim it is a possibility that this route is totally on site-able, just not by some maverick chancer.
still you have to lend the guy the credit.
Well done mate, E mail me your sequence...
PS was it wet.
ppS did you take any falls?