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Michael Reardon on grit onsighting mission (Read 37204 times)

Paul B

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think the incident was a little way back was it not? (Narcissus maybe?)

dave

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isn this shit for real?  :wank:
what a load of funking bollards.

Johnny Brown

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Its all strikingly at odds with what Grimer told me whilst informing me I wouldn't be required to take photos of Reardon for his article...

Its a hilarious choice of routes though. Hopefully he'll inspire Si O into a one-upmanship bullshitting war.

Will Hunt

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Guy strikes me as a bit of a fool.

drdeath

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undoubtedly a total tool but the pictures of him onsight soloing romantic warrior look nice...if you believe he did it...


Houdini

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This dude is clearly very bold but he talks more shite than I do.  Some achievement...

the_dom

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This dude is clearly very bold but he talks more shite than I do.  Some achievement...

Give him a medal...

Houdini

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soapy

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posthumously awarded

Houdini

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soapy

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here's the original shot, before being photoshopped. if you look really closely you can just about make out the faint trail of a rope or two..



Houdini

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I'm getting ET to the rescue of this one Soaps.

dom

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the guy comes across as a bit of a knob on return to sender.

I'm looking forward to reading the article about him in Rock and Ice.

james

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Only briefly skimmed through the article so please ignore the following if I have wildly missed any hidden subtleties,
In Brief:
A fair few amusing, mocky comments about the white polo shirt wearing, bay watch wannabe - nice one Grimer ;)
A mass of random grit info about the people, places etc - presumably because Michael was nothing to write home, or to America, about, and thus something was needed to bulk what would otherwise been a very short article.
Lots of pictures of other people climbing on the grit - presumably because Michael didn't do/wasn't witnessed doing, anything worth snapping?
One token shot of him on the ramp of rampart, captioned as if he is soloing soul doubt - presumably to try to save his rep by missleading the average Joe into thinking he has done something impressive?

All in all, well done grimer,

grimer

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oh thank you James. Yeah, it did need some fleshing out from the original brief because apart from anything, it did rain an amazing amount when he was here. Sorry if it was rambly, but it was kinda hard to get psyched about just another article about the grit.

Well done yourself, by the way. :)

Sloper

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So what did this demi god actually do?

irish si

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Dave (supertopos.com)
 
I met Michael this summer at Tahquitz, it was interesting to say the least. Goes something like this: We're playing hacky sack in the lot waiting for some friends, finishing coffee,etc.. MR speeds up skids to a stop says high to a mutual friend of ours and gives us his itenerary: warm up Whodunnit, Super Pooper next and then the Vampire!! Jumps in his car and speeds away. Wow I thought. Later at the crag he warms up on Wong climb 5.7, then we see him later top out on Whodunnit, while sitting on the summit he says he did Y crack and Green Roseeta (.11c o.w.) before Whodunnit. So back at the base hanging out under Fred he commences to tell us how he just got back from the Brittish Isles claiming to have on-sighted, solo of course, all the Brits "headpoint" test piece routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak!! Says the Irish climbing federation or club or something like that paid for him to develop some crags that they could'nt touch, all solo of course. So after that mega spray session my friend and I do some short 5.9 slab before we bail and Michael eye's it for a sec. ask if it's all face climbing and then shrugs it off and bails out of sight. Should'nt that be lite for him, being that he sent the Vampire which has several .11 slab/ thin face cruxes? Hmmm.?! 
O.k. so I'm not saying he did or did'nt do stuff, but those claims about the brits are pretty bold, any brits know anything about this? I have a friend whos' president of a climbing club in Manchester (grit home turf) he says he never even heard of the guy. You'd think those brits would be up in arms over that, or at least have to say cheers if not! One last thing, one of my friends who I was climbing with that day, whom many of you know was just blown away, saying that (in comparison to Bachar) that if you were hanging at the cookie the difference was that Bachar would walk up and solo Crack-a-Go-Go right in front of you.

grimer

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Is that you or not Si?

Ay up. I climbed and hung out with Michael quite a bit over in uk. But yeah, he did some good stuff over here. When I wasn't with him, he did the boulder problem start of Neon Dust and West Side Story. At Froggatt with me he did loads of stuff, including Sunset Slab, Checker's Buttress and Tody's Wall.

account_inactive

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I applaud you Grimer  :bow:

Idol eyes

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Did this psysdo guru do any thing at Stanage, fuck this wana be grit on site bitch ass ass hole holic, there is no way he did warm love OS,,,,
Heason events will do a lecture... .com

Dave Westlake

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Is that you or not Si?

Ay up. I climbed and hung out with Michael quite a bit over in uk. But yeah, he did some good stuff over here. When I wasn't with him, he did the boulder problem start of Neon Dust and West Side Story. At Froggatt with me he did loads of stuff, including Sunset Slab, Checker's Buttress and Tody's Wall.

soloing an e2 and a couple of hvs's is a far cry from doing warm love or any of the other shit he claims.

seems like a total bullshitter to me.

 :thumbsdown:

irish si

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yeah grimer its moi.  Hope your good. Im in colorado livin it up.

Yeah I email michael just cause i was interested in the stuff he had done in uk and the homeland cause its close to home you know, but he just brushed me off. funny article.  old sunset slabs a tricky one eh.  I have seen nigel kershaw solo it in his hi tec silver shadows with no hands, impressive.  Maybe rock and ice would be interested in that.

regards mate.

dave

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At Froggatt with me he did loads of stuff, including Sunset Slab, Checker's Buttress and Tody's Wall.

now if we were talking Chequers Crack not Buttress then that would have been a good effort.

grimer

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soloing an e2 and a couple of hvs's is a far cry from doing warm love or any of the other shit he claims.

seems like a total bullshitter to me.

 :thumbsdown:

He did an E2???

Dave Westlake

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sorry i was thinking of sundowner!! not sunset slab!  :oops: :-[

 

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