[dom]

What grade is Warm Love, and where is it?

I was going to google it, but then as i was typing it in i realized thats probably not a good idea from a work computer

[Stubbs]

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=958

here you go. One for real grit afficionados!

[Houdini]

So I'm guessing someone has top-roped it successfully and given it a UK tech grade of 7A and not 7B, which is what I thought JD gave it.

Lad pulls a most excellent gurn on that vid.

I do not care about any of the other bully, only the claim of this route.

Ditto. 

[Idol eyes]

It has to be 7B the doors. It has a tall mans sequence at 7A, but it would be a real nasty side ways fall from the crux, possibly head first if the heel hook holds! But it was lead with gear, so not an issue if you place the cam...
but OSS would have to be a flash, as whatever the story, the very last push is the end of the crux.
I would like to state that it is great to see someone else showing an intrest in this route, its an A1 route, and well suited to the first acentionist

[Houdini]

All routes that wait years for a second ascent have an aura about them.  If you are prepared to stick your head up and claim one of them (and in such a fine style) you really should be prepared to defend your claim.  If you cannot or won't, why bother saying a word at all?  The fact that this guy is fully-loaded yet still accepts free equipment speaks volumes...

[Idol eyes]

Its all kudos craving...
climbing is freedom from thought control.

[Paz]

This might be me being completely dumb or computer Gremlin's but he's since changed that article and now there's no mention of Warm Love.  With regards Stanage With Out Oxygen he just says "five minutes later I'm on the top" but doesn't mention how he got there - probably walked round the back.  I reckon he did Fish or Chips, or Breakdancer.  He's just using the route names as airy fairy section titles anyway.  At some point allowing or encouraging people to think you've done things you haven't (as he's done in his talks) counts as bulshitting and even though there's possibly confusion between american onsight and british isles ground up.  If you're a professional sponsored climber there's a bit of an onus on you to make sure you're on the right route and you know where it goes.  Otherwise you're an unprofessional sponsored climber.  He dismisses our routes as boulder problems, but didn't think to use a pad - wtf?  And he still sounds like a knob on his site. 

[AndiT]

And he didn't even come to Staffordshire... Loser..

[Stubbs]

His visit in his own words, not had time to listen to all of it yet.
http://www.podclimber.com/audio/pclb_CL_005_Reardon_002-2006-07-27.mp3

[slim]

  dont care who you are, you cant os british 7a on a grit route

[Somebody's Fool]

Why not?

[Scouse D]

Ditto?

[Paz]

Cos it'll get down graded or declared morpho as soon as anyone does it?

[grimer]

Just one thing to interject here as some of the comments, eg, slim's don't have much grounding. During Reardon's stay here, it was the most amazingly bad week of weather of the entire year. Just that people get so carried away when the smell blood that perspective gets lost a bit. Not defending what seems to be misleading propoganda on his part, as that is a bit of a wind up, but that's no reason to go just as far in the other direction.

[AndiT]

Like that french bloke once said 'if something has been climbed once, then it can be climbed on-sight'. There is no reason that someone can't on-sight 7a, it's only a grade harder than 6c (which isn't that hard anymore and 6b is approaching a rest)!

I've no doubt it's been done on grit boulders, so why no routes?

As for it being declared morpho afterwards, of course it will, but that is just par for the course, when things get technically hard grades they normally are weird morphological moves (dyno's or rounded mantles etc), especially on grit. I think we can expect that!

[grimer]

Exactly. I mean, he could be six feet tall with massive arms, good at dynoing incredibly good looking with too much dark hair? Although he did just happen to be five foot five with hair like a forty nine year old prostitute, and wierd little sticky out hooves like richie p has.

[slim]

well ok wasnt ment to be over analized...


yes there is no reason that a 7a grit route cannot be onsighted....

however whoever can os 7a on lead on route is frankly a legend, and i can see it being done anytime soon...
prove me wrong

[mark s]

of course it can be done
i saw leo onsight the hard 7a part of against the grain only to stuff up on the e4 ledge.so thats 1 example i have seen,i dont get out much.

[grimer]

You shouldn't be so modest, Mark. I've seen you fall off ledges too. Mark Sharratt, the man who put the Ledge back in Ledgend.

[mark s]

ho ho ho.