Home
Forum
Search
Login
Register
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
chuffing
Last move horrors
« previous
next »
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Last move horrors
(Read 3630 times)
Andy F
forum hero
Posts: 1987
Karma: +129/-13
Ex-ex-climber
Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 09:56:29 am
Some routes have easy finishes, others spit you off right near the belay. Contender for me are:
Raindogs (obviously), The Maximum (you think "I've burled through the bottom so this move is easy), The Ashes (scene of many infamous lobs) and Overnight Sensation (stunning move though)
Any others
Logged
Houdini
forum hero
Posts: 6497
Karma: +233/-38
Heil Mary
#1 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 09:59:31 am
The Manic Strain. Hideous (for stumpies) super-reachy run-out top out.
Logged
fatboySlimfast
forum hero
Posts: 1557
Karma: +49/-1
#2 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 11:31:23 am
Shaoshing 8a, Volx. two polished slopers, rock over to distant jug next to belay. Bolt way below you and if your belayer doesnt pay enough slack out you slam into a slab below.....so 30ft mandatory
Logged
Paul B
forum hero
Posts: 9628
Karma: +264/-4
#3 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 12:26:05 pm
Rumble in the jungle - Large dyno to finish.
Logged
Houdini
forum hero
Posts: 6497
Karma: +233/-38
Heil Mary
#4 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 01:46:41 pm
(Not a route I know but...)
Eclipse, eclipse, eclipse.... How this tiny lad loves/hates you. You let me piss the steepness too often and let me caress your top jug briefly on occasion. You tight bitch! When you let me top out!?
Logged
Andy F
forum hero
Posts: 1987
Karma: +129/-13
Ex-ex-climber
#5 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 01:49:44 pm
should that have been posted in the Ultimate Nemesis thread
Logged
Ru
Global Moderator
forum hero
Posts: 1973
Karma: +120/-0
#6 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 02:28:07 pm
Last move horrors are only horrors when they're NOT the crux move. If the last move is the crux (ie Eclipse and Rumble) then by falling off the last move you're just falling off the meat of the route. A last move horror is when you've blasted through the crux, kept it together till the top (ie say it was an 8b route, you've already done 8b's worth of climbing) and THEN find an awkward/annoying/droppable move.
Logged
Stu Littlefair
forum hero
Posts: 1838
Karma: +283/-2
#7 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 02:32:15 pm
Like Andy on the Maximum. Andy - I swear to god I still thought you might drop it even with your hands round the chain!
Logged
Ru
Global Moderator
forum hero
Posts: 1973
Karma: +120/-0
#8 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 02:35:18 pm
Aye, I couldn't look. Both hands on the finishing jugs and THEN starts power screaming. Have another
Logged
Houdini
forum hero
Posts: 6497
Karma: +233/-38
Heil Mary
#9 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 02:44:00 pm
Surely if the
last
move is horrific it doesn't matter if it's the crux or not. Like on Eclipse.
Logged
Ru
Global Moderator
forum hero
Posts: 1973
Karma: +120/-0
#10 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 02:46:52 pm
Sort of, but then you could nomiate Hale Bopp.
Logged
Houdini
forum hero
Posts: 6497
Karma: +233/-38
Heil Mary
#11 Re: Last move horrors
August 30, 2006, 03:04:37 pm
I guess you could/couldn't. It's the last/first move as well as first/last move.
It's an extreme example.
But better the crux @ the top (where it should be) than the crux being the 1st move off the deck.
Andy, it hasn't quite reached Ultimate Nemesis status yet. Usually just drained by the time I've let go with both hands for the top a few times. Or some other excuse...
«
Last Edit: August 30, 2006, 03:10:14 pm by Houdini
»
Logged
Andy F
forum hero
Posts: 1987
Karma: +129/-13
Ex-ex-climber
#12 Re: Last move horrors
August 31, 2006, 08:34:01 am
Quote from: Ru on August 30, 2006, 02:35:18 pm
Aye, I couldn't look. Both hands on the finishing jugs and THEN starts power screaming. Have another
That'll be because the jugs had become very greasy due to drippage from above. It was a case of pull on them and you'll grease off, hence the power scream...
Logged
Print
Pages: [
1
]
« previous
next »
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
chuffing
Last move horrors
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal