[(woz)]

Reading that BBC Jerry article (the bit about dominator) has got me thinking about climbers performance boosting pre-climbing rituals. Has anyone got any useful/strange/just plain wrong tips for increasing short term performance (preferrably non-steroidal)? My current favourites are: not eating for several hours beforehand, strong coffee, climbing in front of girls (one of jerry's favourites too?) and being very hungover.

With regards to the last one, the best I have ever climbed followed a particularly heavy night, resulting in having to stop on the way out to the crag to be sick (a la Leo houlding on wild climbs) - perhaps alcoholism/bulemia is the way forward?

anyway, share the knowledge...

[Mike Tyson]

I agree with the coffee, always a winner. I tend to smoke more than usual, quite easily buthching 20 B&H in an afternoon session at the Bowderstone.

Cant say I've done the being sick thing though, I have once drank 6 cans of fosters whilst trying a problem...... needless to say I did not succeed.....

Anyone have the alcoholic anonymous number...

[BenF]

Hmmm...  the only ritual I share with the previous posters is caffeine.  I don't like coffee one iota, so I tend to drink some form of cola during a day climbing.  Not intending to drink so much that I shake, just aiming to have a bit of a lift.  Maybe later in the session after a bit of a rest or chill.

Warming up can become a bit of a ritual, often lasting into two hours worth of warm up if I'm on a trip.  Font being the best example of me spening hours gradually warming up.  I find it helps me get the most out of my day and extends my day significantly if I warm up for over an hour.  Obviously this luxury can't be managed after work.

Can't think of any other rituals other than going through a prolonged period of pessimism and self-doubt if I'm attempting anything even remotely hard or project-like.  This ritual is very important if I'm to get the least out of my session.

[JaseM]

Can't think of any other rituals other than going through a prolonged period of pessimism and self-doubt if I'm attempting anything even remotely hard or project-like.  This ritual is very important if I'm to get the least out of my session.

I feel rather guilty now as I always thought all that self doubt was just your way of making me feel bad about myself i.e.
"I can't do that project you worked on for months I'm too weak....oh, look at that I just flashed it, how surprising"

[dobbin]

The first day I climbed In Brine in a one'r I had to be driven to tideswell to buy comfort food and alka seltzer. I cant say it works reguarly for me to be honest.

[BenF]

I feel rather guilty now as I always thought all that self doubt was just your way of making me feel bad about myself i.e.
"I can't do that project you worked on for months I'm too weak....oh, look at that I just flashed it, how surprising"

   Well, obviously my prime aim is to make you feel crappy.  In my mind, me achieving something comes second to you failing on it. 
All the better if you now feel guilty though.  Do you want a violin smiley? Here, a token of my understanding...

[andy_e]

being very hungover.

With regards to the last one, the best I have ever climbed followed a particularly heavy night, resulting in having to stop on the way out to the crag to be sick

Hmm... that reminds me of when I once went to caley. The night before had been very "interesting" and heavy on the wallet (need I say more?) and the next day I was severely hung over. Terribly. I threw up on every street between My mate's and Leeds Wall, (where we went to buy a mat), and then threw up lots at the Leeds Wall. I was then fine, except when we got off at the Stile bus stop at caley, I threw up lots. I then immediately flashed Our Father's Arete (quite an achievement for me then) and threw up off the top...

[Houdini]

General tip: Fasting.

Rituals:  Tabbing, brewing, taping, stretching, brushing, a little dead-hanging, and some swearing.



I used to boulder on 'shrooms a bit when I was younger, mostly for their dyno-boosting properties.  I don't now.  It's too much for my swede.

[(woz)]

I threw up on every street between My mate's and Leeds Wall, (where we went to buy a mat),

Sounds like you fitted right in with all the tramps/students

[a dense loner]

i prepare by clicking my left little finger, i know of no other way

[Houdini]

Rituals differ acording to where I'm climbing.

If I'm away and have stacks of climbing time, I try and be on the rocks for 7am - avoiding heat, people and (this is region specific) bugs: my nemesis. Other rituals might include smearing myself (and my speedo's) with a coctail of 95% DEET and citronella oil (just to take the carcinogenic bite out of the DEET) and maybe stake my patch out with mosquito coils and sometimes (if I'm feeling proper weird) light some joss sticks (opium, preferably).

It's a bit rough getting into the routine unless you're already an early bird, but you see the best part of the day; not so much traffic noise etc.. by 11 am it's warm, I'm goosed, and ready to return to digs and make like a junkie-vegetable.  And early nights.  Not very rock n roll, but... it's good, if you're in a mind to spend some time getting better.

[Control freak]

Definitely Coffee first thing.Silvo Karo and Gullich cant be wrong. Ive also been partial to some pastries from the cake shop and the odd can of over-caffeinated sugary drink company to get the blood flowing. Dont really get much time to warm up cos its usually a race to beat the sun, a few easy problems and then onto the main event

[lorentz]

Spending ages warming up and coffee once you start to flag

Just before starting a problem (or when campusing) a few yogic breathing exercises. It, like, gets the prana flowing right and the chakras aligned, man.

Serpent breathing is good. Boosts oxygen levels to the body and increases lung capacity. Inhale through the nose counting three, pause briefly, continue inhalation counting three, pause briefly, and inhale counting three again. Exhale slowly with control through the nose again. Repeat exercise counting four. Then try a set of fives etc.

[andy_e]

Serpent breathing is good. Boosts oxygen levels to the body and increases lung capacity. Inhale through the nose counting three, pause briefly, continue inhalation counting three, pause briefly, and inhale counting three again. Exhale slowly with control through the nose again. Repeat exercise counting four. Then try a set of fives etc.

Er... I must have dodgy lungs. I can't get to the third three...

[lorentz]

Cheat. Count faster! (Or quit the ciggies.)

It does take a bit of practice. Haven't got beyond the fives.

[Red Dwarf]

Definitely Coffee first thing.Silvo Karo and Gullich cant be wrong. Ive also been partial to some pastries from the cake shop and the odd can of over-caffeinated sugary drink company to get the blood flowing. Dont really get much time to warm up cos its usually a race to beat the sun, a few easy problems and then onto the main event

I'm with Control Freak (and most of the rest of you by the looks of it)...Coffee...real...strong...and before I get anywhere close to leaving the house. A couple of pies / giant sausage rolls (breakfast of champions) on the way to the chosen venue, and load up on "V" (a bit like over-caffeinated sugary drink company only it tastes a damn sight better...& available in the UK in some places)...

The only slightly perplexing thing about my pre-falling off routine is that I always put the left shoe on first and if I screw things up I'll actually take them off and start again 

[SA Chris]

I've noticed the last think I do is say "OK" to myself before I start to climb. No idea why.

[Nibile]

i try to warm up very well.

the real routine is choosing one particular pair of shoes for the problem and double checking crashpad positioning is i dont feel 100% sure.