UKBouldering.com

Queen Kong (Read 22726 times)

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 10:56:50 am
From the start of May but this looks looks like it could be a (hardcore) classic...



May 9th 2006:
Another modern classic added to Queen's Crag: Today Dan Varian raided from the West to grab the first ascent of Queen Kong, Font 8a. This takes the impressive prow to the right of Worldline.

Source: http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/new.html

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#1 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 11:01:12 am
Does it go all the way to the top? If so, loks a lot more like a route than a problem, serious deck potential.

Sweet line and fine effort mind.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#2 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 12:17:13 pm
  :jaw: Wow, that's got to be the best looking new problem i've seen in ages (even with the strange photoshopping)! That Wordline thing looks amazing too, how hard is that? Where exactly is Queen's Crag anyway, looks like Wainstones/Scugdale style sandstone to me?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#3 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 12:23:58 pm
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/queens_crag.htm

I asked myself the same question half an hour ago.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#4 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 01:08:39 pm
Cheers Chris.
Due west of Newcastle, just North of Hadrians wall. Could make a great bouldering weekender if combined with something like Goldsborough I reckon.

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 861
  • Karma: +73/-1
#5 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 01:16:42 pm
Does it go all the way to the top?

I asked the same question and was told "Of course it does -- this isn't the peak, you know!"
Top venue. Nice and quiet, too (shh...)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#6 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 01:24:54 pm
 Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29255
  • Karma: +632/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#7 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 01:29:53 pm

I asked the same question and was told "Of course it does -- this isn't the peak, you know!"
Top venue. Nice and quiet, too (shh...)

 :bow: sweet in that case. I suspected it would, was just wondering as the very chalked holds disappear above where he is.

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 861
  • Karma: +73/-1
#8 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 01:33:05 pm
Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:

Ah, but Kong was done by a Cumbrian, you see. We mountain dwellers have a different view on the summit experience from you lowlanders  :P Why, just the other day when I was up on t' Napes Needle with my sheep...
« Last Edit: June 05, 2006, 01:38:41 pm by tc »

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#9 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 02:04:20 pm
Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:

Ah, but Kong was done by a Cumbrian, you see. We mountain dwellers have a different view on the summit experience from you lowlanders  :P Why, just the other day when I was up on t' Napes Needle with my sheep...

Tim you're starting to sound like Si O.  ;)

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 861
  • Karma: +73/-1
#10 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 02:31:24 pm
Oh, fuck   :(
But I haven't climbed V11 blindfold, redpointed V15 & f8c+, head-pointed E9, & just pointed at things randomly, standing in a field...
I haven't soloed f8c & climbed E7 one-handed, un-roped. I wasn't the one who came very close on L'Alchimist at Apremont, after the hold broke, either...
Not  :guilty:

dave

  • Guest
#11 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 05:39:15 pm
Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:

Ah, but Kong was done by a Cumbrian, you see. We mountain dwellers have a different view on the summit experience from you lowlanders  :P Why, just the other day when I was up on t' Napes Needle with my sheep...

Tim you're starting to sound like Si O.  ;)

speaking of Si'O, has he been on the case with the sky in that photo. Subtle dude subtle.

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#12 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 08:56:09 pm
Its quite horrible. Such a nice pic in all other ways too, problem looks awesome, the guy climbing looks like he's having fun, the pictures is pretty damn good - why mutilate it so?

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#13 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 09:46:36 pm
  That Wordline thing looks amazing too


1001% with you on this one Bonjoy.



Outrageously pretty.   



It's shot straight in @ no. 1 on Arete Quest!

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
#14 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 10:29:50 pm
Its quite horrible.

I kinda like it. Looks otherworldly, with the sun an older star.

Bullitt

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 17
  • Karma: +0/-0
#15 Re: Queen Kong
June 05, 2006, 11:59:03 pm
This problem is even better than it looks, a real good effort from Daniel Son!  I keep on telling him he should stick to Armathwaite but he insists on finding more and more amazing new lines!  Good effort lad, big up the Carlisle massif, charva!!  ;)

carlisle slapper

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 193
  • Karma: +114/-3

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#17 Re: Queen Kong
June 06, 2006, 09:32:51 am
You have to have an email login and password to access those links.


squeek

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 985
  • Karma: +9/-0
#19 Re: Queen Kong
June 06, 2006, 12:55:01 pm
Ahhhh, those RINGO links are not safe for work, as I just found out  (not the climbing pictures, but some that come up in the 'other photos' section)

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#20 Re: Queen Kong
June 08, 2006, 02:02:27 am
Some amazing looking problems in that neck of the woods.

Reckon this is worth keeping an eye on:

http://www.the-county.com/preview.htm

grimer

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1578
  • Karma: +144/-1
#21 Re: Queen Kong
June 08, 2006, 09:05:27 am
I've seen pics of Guardian Angel in the guidebook. It's one of those routes that gives you willies just looking at it. What's it like?

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#22 Re: Queen Kong
August 02, 2006, 02:38:02 pm
Quote
Queen Kong sit start success. Chris Graham has added a desperate sit start the Dan Varian's awesome highball Queen Kong at Queens Crag in Northumberland "I've completed the Queen Kong Sit Start in the cool shade of Queen's Crag. I'm giving it a very very tentative 8a+ (V12) although I think (the grades of) both the stand up and sitter require confirmation. The sit start adds about 5 more quality moves to the problem taking the total length to 20+ sustained moves - absolutely exhausting. On reaching the highball moves my legs were jelly and I had the best part of an asthma attack once I'd topped out!" Chris Graham. More pictures of Queens Crag on Northumberlandbouldering.co.uk. Reported 22nd July 2006
 



Chris Graham making the first ascent of the sit start to Queen Kong V12

 And in July! This place looks like a great summer venue, Northerly and north facing

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2933
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#23 Re: Queen Kong
August 03, 2006, 10:15:16 am
Some amazing looking problems in that neck of the woods.

Reckon this is worth keeping an eye on:

http://www.the-county.com/preview.htm

Unfortunately it's been "iminent" for ages.  I remember being told it was near to completion whilst buying some rock shoes in Wildtrack before a Feb 2005 trip to font!  Still from what I saw of the footage that day (bouldering and trad) it may well justify the wait (possibly previously unseen footage of the Earl on Dark Half and the Prow etc?).  I get the feeling that they just can't stop shooting new stuff - saw them over winter at Kyloe trying to get some more Earl action on Lothlorian / Leviathon etc.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#24 Re: Queen Kong
October 03, 2006, 12:00:27 am
Sadly no sound, but here's Andy Earl doing Queen Kong:

http://www.andrewearl.co.uk/video%20clips/Northumberland/Queens%20Crag%20-%20Queen%20Kong.m1v

Seems like there's been a fair bit of acitivity at this crag:

Quote
Sept 13th: And more...Dan Varian reports that he has completed the arete project on the rabbitstone at Queens. Dan declined to give the problem, now named Red Dragon, a grade.

Sept 10th: More new problems at Queen's...Dan Varian reports that he has sent the grooved crackline above the rabbitstone, Dan called it "The Queen is Dead" and has given it Fb7a standing and 7a+ sitting although it may deserve an E grade. Meanwhile, back in August, Chris Graham finally completed the pen wall project after 6 days of stroking the hold on the crux. "S.L.O.T." goes at Fb7c+ (photo here).


Red Dragon

(No grade given, assume it's an 8?)
http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/queens_reddragon.htm
« Last Edit: October 03, 2006, 12:06:06 am by r-man »

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal