[al]

agree adam, attitude plays a major part in this stuff, u big hippy.
tried john at the clinic, and had a few goes, but it's not cheap if the injury is chronic.
rate the therabandwagon though, and am trying to get into the habit.
my problem is never having been injured before, i'm finding it hard to get such a routine going.

[ferret]

short on cash work on it yorself or get mates to help. rmemorise the spots that john works and apply pressure yorself if ya cant reach get friends to help. if youve got antagonistic stuff in yor back the best way is to get somebody to apply pressure to the area. 1 hand vertical pushing down with pinky finger side of hand the other horizontal on top. start gently at first. try too relax into it with yor breathing as they apply more pressure. keep moving around until youve found the spot that refers pain to another area neck bicep elbow etc and work this for about  10 mins ( dont overdo it ) if you can do this regularly in combination with theraband should be able to climb thru it.
try to avoid moves where you are at full extent of reach especially dynamically shock loading in this position as this is mainly wot strains antagonistics

[webbo]

the theraband exs you mention do you mean like a straight arm tricep pulldown with the theraband fixed to something above you or like a chest expander movement.

[fatneck]

the theraband exs you mention do you mean like a straight arm tricep pulldown with the theraband fixed to something above you or like a chest expander movement.

I use the theraband mainly for warming up and chest expander type excercises. Kepp elbows tight into your side, palms face up, and pull outwards as far as you can (I know one very strong individual who can barely get an inch of outward movement doing this excercise). Also as the ferret described above (arms straight out in front of you and pull outwards).

I imagine the excercise you describe would be usefull as well.

Hope that helps!

[Falling Down]

Al... I get sore pains in the shoulders but not to the same extent that you describe but here's my two penneth anyway.

All round muscle and strength training - since I work away a lot staying in one place or another and don't have access to a gym I've had to figure out how to train using body weight. It's taken a while but I now have a routine that I can do a few times a week anywear that involves Tuck Planches, Pistons, Supermans, (trying) One Arm Pushups and a few other things.  As well as feeling better 'n stronger I've also noticed that aches and pains in elbows, shoulders and fingers are not as frequent.  

My conclusion is that whilst I'd realised that core strength and antagonistic muscle training was important I hadn't realised quite how specific and intensive these years of climbing and bouldering have been... It's been quite a revelation in some ways...

[a dense loner]

tuck planches, pistons? what are these falling?

[Falling Down]

Tuck Planche (note elbows aren't touching knees) ...



But it helps to start with the Frog Planche (knees outside and resting on elbows)



There's a great article here http://www.dragondoor.com/articler/mode3/229/ that is about building up to a full front-lever and a push-up planche (AKA the gobsmacking Fb8c+ manouver that our breakdancing mutant does in Huffy's video) as the two are complementary for abs and back development.  To quote Sommer

"They're a lot of fun to work, require no specialized equipment and yet give enormous returns in strength. Basically these two exercises promote extreme strength and stability throughout the shoulder girdle both anteriorly and posteriorly. In addition, they'll trash your core and work your lower back/hips thoroughly."

Pistons.. sorry that should've been Pistols.

Basically a one-legged squat but keeping the shin as vertical as possible to avoid straining the knee - whilst being great for the legs it's really a core strength/body tension thing.


Pistol Bottom Position

Have fun !

[Johnny Brown]

Just to clarify I'm not saying John Ostrovskis is full of shit or reiki is bollocks, I still rate the guy, however I'm not sure its that applicable to cod-shoulders. As is clear on this thread climber's shoulders are rarely actually injured as in damaged in some way, instead its muscle tension or imbalance.

All the reiki/ acupuncture stimulates stuff to heal, but if not actually damaged I'm not convinced it has a great effect. As soon as I went in with an actual injury (popped a tendon halfway through treatment) I got the all the reiki tingles etc in my hand but my back/ shoulder didn't seem interested.

[webbo]

the theraband exs you mention do you mean like a straight arm tricep pulldown with the theraband fixed to something above you or like a chest expander movement.

I use the theraband mainly for warming up and chest expander type excercises. Kepp elbows tight into your side, palms face up, and pull outwards as far as you can (I know one very strong individual who can barely get an inch of outward movement doing this excercise). Also as the ferret described above (arms straight out in front of you and pull outwards).

I imagine the excercise you describe would be usefull as well.

Hope that helps!

i do those,there was an article on cocktalk.which suggested the ex you describe but holding a folded towel under your arm so you are keeping your elbows in.also do them the other way pulling across your body.then the ex i mentioned.followed by lateral raises with a thumbs down grip.

what colour theraband do most people use.am i right in thinking it goes yellow,red,green,blue, black.i've been using red for about 3months doing the exs described above.i've just nipped across to the local wheelchair shop to order some green blue and black.need i have bothered.

[SA Chris]

Basically a one-legged squat but keeping the shin as vertical as possible to avoid straining the knee - whilst being great for the legs it's really a core strength/body tension thing.


Pistol Bottom Position

Have fun !

You should hear the noises my knee makes when I do those. Most unpleasant.

[fatneck]

what colour theraband do most people use.

I use the blue, but only cos that's what the physio gave me. She reckoned climbers should use the stronger ones...

[al]

i'm on the red band, found the yella a bit weedy, and the green went down well with some rice and peas.
on the john O thing, he seemed ok, but fuck it hurt

[saltbeef]

i feel your pain. i went to john ostrovoskis... ok not a slating but he reeled out the same thing to a number of people i know, ie probs with elbows, you have a problem with posture, do lots of wide arm press ups. and i think the massage he did actually damaged my elbow. alison macfarlane is the british team physio, she is apparently very good. i saw one of her colleagues, i forget his name but he's a senior lecturer in physio at hallam. he was very honest, refused to let me pay and gave me very good advice. I use a grey thera band.

[moose]

might be worth noting that the strength vs colour order for thera-bands seems to depend on whether they are latex-free or not.  

For latex therabands it's: yellow (light) < red < green < blue < black < silver < gold (super-super-heavy).

But on some websites I've seen latex-free bands listed: orange (light) < green < blue < plum (extra stong).

There's a useful exercise finder at  

http://www.thera-bandacademy.com/

click on a body part and it lists a load of suitable exercises:

[Paz]

I got the all the reiki tingles etc

And The Rhythm Of Life is a powerful beat, Puts a tingle in your fingers and a tingle in your feet,

Minted that I just found the musical I first heard that in :D

[SA Chris]

From the Guinness advert?

[Johnny Brown]

I use a grey thera band.

I can see a repeat of the CoC scenes here... saltbeef, dobbin etc in the schoolroom with a gold theraband...

I got the all the reiki tingles etc

And The Rhythm Of Life is a powerful beat, Puts a tingle in your fingers and a tingle in your feet,

Well, I was trying to believe it was the reiki at the time. With hindsight, it could have had more to do with the fact I had five massive needles stuck in my hand...

[Paz]

A shorter version was used in the Guinness advert than the extravanganza in Sweet Charity, where Big Daddy's church The Rhythm of Life is this month's choice of The Religion of The Month Club.  I'm just happy more people got to hear the track.  

[
Well, I was trying to believe it was the reiki at the time. With hindsight, it could have had more to do with the fact I had five massive needles stuck in my hand...

You'd believe expertly sticking five needles in your hand will do something.

[Nigel]

I use a grey thera band.

I can see a repeat of the CoC scenes here... saltbeef, dobbin etc in the schoolroom with a gold theraband...

I use a green and a red one. Together. Check me out.  :roll:

P.S. no one will beat Ferret, he uses a tractor tire. Doubled over. On fire. Then he swallows it in one.

[Johnny Brown]

whilst a friend maintains careful, precise-but-still-painful pressure on his back. Amazing. Is it coincidence he looks like Jesus?

[Johnny Brown]

Also look at the pictures of some of my current group of athletes. Pretty buff for boys who mostly range from 7-11 years old

Good article, though I'd be worried about reading it around paedo-paranoid types... or have I just been watching too much brasseye? That guy is as gay as a window - you can't have gays in the forces, they sing songs, they muck about, they nudge others when they are shooting...

[ferret]

had a hair cut a while back  :D

[Lostboy]

I've just developed serious pain in my left shoulder, was lucky enough to spend an intimate evening with four physio friends of mine.  After various test etc the diagnosis was actually tendonitis of the bicep where it joins the scapula.  This has been totally caused by over development of chest, biceps, and esp romboids which are apparently the muscles in the middle of your back at the top.  The difficulty is that you have to totally isolate the muscles which are underdeveloped, theraband excercises etc, this is a very common problem with climbers which gives the classic climbing hunched over look.  my friends are putting together a regime for me, will post it on here for anyone else with a similar problem.

[saltbeef]

something that struck me at the foundry yesterrday was how everyone who climbed on the steep bit had a sort of rucked up bit of t shirt around the front of their shoulders, normal people with reasonable posture don't get it. huffy has a white thera band...

[Pemb]

Found this on UKClimbing, it may have been mentioned earlier in the thread. It just gives some information on shoulder tendonitis and some theraband exercises you can do.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=119

This website also has some different theraband shoulder exercies and other therband exericise rountines for various injuries.

http://www.thera-bandacademy.com/default.asp

These exercises have been quite helpful to me and probably worth a go as they only take a few minutes to do each day.