[Paz]

Hurricane... is no where near V10, more like V7 or 8. I think the words "most technical moves in Dorset" should be followed by "over 40 feet above the ground".

OK, cheers Jimbob, thanks ever so much for clearing that up.  It's probably me who's heard it wrong about Hurricane being Font 7csomething the but I'll check.  A conditionsy V7 / 8 most of us can't touch is a lot more believable.  Ru should be pleased with himself that he was right.  All we need now is Pete to come on from Nu Zealand and tell us how hard he thinks it is and I'll be made up.  

The French route grade is irrelevant and should be ignored. How can you give a boulder problem a meaningful route grade?
Keep trying on Subyouth - don't forget the top part to the belay is tricky too!

Glad to hear we're singing from the same hymn sheet.  I'm pretty psyched to get get back to the cuttings now too.  There's just never enough hours of daylight for everything there.  Are all those blocs in the rockfax?

[Mr K]

All we need now is Pete to come on from Nu Zealand and tell us how hard he thinks it is and I'll be made up.

Pete's not moved to Nu Zealand yet - so you might still see him at the cliffs!

JIMBO

[andy_e]

You can't with pure, safe boulder problems (e.g. right hand end of slipstones - previously mis-described with route grades).

e.g
Sulky Little Boys - HVS 6c
The Square - VS 5c Wilton Three, another good example

[Fiend]

Yes those are clearly pisstakes.

I guess there's two types of boulder problem routes:

1. Proper micro-routes ( / highballs when done with mats). Actually these aren't necessarily that bouldery, they could be steadily sustained and non-cruxy.

2. Longer leadable routes with distinctly boulder cruxes. "Boulder problem in the sky" type climbing.

1s are all obvious everyone knows them and does them already usually as boulder problems.

2s hmmm can I think of some more...

A few suggestions:

Cenotaph Corner: VS 5a with one god awful V1 move in that's such a bag of... it wouldn't get in a guidebook if it was a real boulder problem.

Left Wall: HVS 5b with a steady V2 section that would be a classic warm-up.

Suicide Wall: Fairly nondescript V1 problem followed by various E2 5a death.

The Shield (Norber Scar): Interesting V3(?) wall problem in the midst of a F6a+.


Fuck, brain's gone dead, can't think of any more  :?

[grimer]

The art of white hat wearing at Curbar likewise E4 6c - I guess this would prove a classy 7b too if people took mats to the bottom.

Is White hat Wearing the square cut groove Up? If it is, is there a line up the wall to the right of this as well?

[Bonjoy]

It is a square cut shallow groove thing on a short section facing south, at the middle left end of the crag. I don't know of one going up the wall directly right.

[grimer]

yeah, i know the one, just wasn't sure if this was the one TAOWHW took, as I remember a potential line beside it.

It looks good, have you done it.?

[Bonjoy]

Tope roped it many moons ago when Andy first did it. It was excellent from what I remember, but the landing was a crippler. I'm pretty keen to take a second look with enough pads though. It's amazing what you can safely boulder above with enough pads and spotters.

[Paz]

Y
2s hmmm can I think of some more...

Cenotaph Corner:
Left Wall:

You can give the crux's boulder grades if you want but you're just repackaging a 5c move as a V1.  It's irrelevant and unhelpful to describe the climbing on those routes as bouldery in any way.  Not only can't you afford to hang around below the crux for long, you would still aim to flash the crux, same as the rest of the route, and you're more than a little boxed by the time you're there.  They're cruxy routes, that British trad grades actually work OK for, with the 5c crux where it should be...  Now if we were to give them sport grades,

F6b, F6b++.

You need a decent rest before the cruxy bit before you can describe a route as bouldery, personally I think even a shake out, (or even a rest on a bolt)  does not necessarily enable you to recover enough to describe the climbing as bouldery (e.g. max power) style.  
A lot of slabs fit this criteria by default, and it's hard to think of any that don't have a runout or more climbing after the bouldery bit or aren't 2 move wonders.  And remember, attempting a crux in a bouldery style may lead to big ledge syndrome.  

Roof Route
Groove Route
Kirkus' Corner
Jeepers Creepers
Now or Never
The roof above Great Wall (Froggatt)
what's Ontos like?
how many moves above the break is does salmon slab at Bamford have?

[Fiend]

Paz, I know, I know, I do occasionally go trad climbing you know. And I have occasionally spoken out in support of the british grading system  :wink:

However I chose those routes because they are very cruxy and have good rests before the crux (CC - whole route is a rest, LW - could bivvy off the jam in the niche, SW - the, errr, ground). The grades are just for a bit of fun, yeah?

Oh, thought of another: MGC, Sheperd's Crag - V1, rest, V2, top.

[andy_e]

Kirkus' Corner

it says it is exposed but the exposed bit is easy, i didn't flash it and lowered off to the ground, but not where the route starts! it's strange! (first E1 by the way!) it definitely falls into the second of fiend's two boulder problem routes.

[webbo]

if your not able to flash/solo this young man :shock: .you should be asking for soft touch e1s.

[andy_e]

if your not able to flash/solo this young man :shock: .you should be asking for soft touch e1s.

bearing in mind it was over a year ago

[webbo]

so you've gone from lowering off hvs/e1s to being so solid at e3 your wanting to try easy e4s in the last year .right

[uptown]

yeah, i know the one, just wasn't sure if this was the one TAOWHW took, as I remember a potential line beside it.

I reckon you could go up the wall to the right grimer.

[grimer]

Ah, i see. What you have your right hand on is what I'm thinking of. Nice pic andy.

[dave]

the wall to the right of TAOWHW has a slighty better landing but is flithy as shit at the moment. the landing on TAOWHW looks proper ill - just basicallly a big fuck off block, as visible in that phote. if you had enough mats to even the level out with the ground it may be ok, but you probably need 6+ mats, and then you'd need spotting off the mat pile....

[cowboyhat]

Off topic...

Ru - "PUTP is about font 7c/V9. I know I gave it V10 in the guide, but I've changed my mind."

Too late. And mainly good, because I disagree. Its hard. ie. 7c+...

[dobbin]

I agree with cbh and I completely disagree with Ru. Its 7c+.

[uptown]

the wall to the right of TAOWHW has a slighty better landing but is flithy as shit at the moment. the landing on TAOWHW looks proper ill - just basicallly a big fuck off block, as visible in that phote. if you had enough mats to even the level out with the ground it may be ok, but you probably need 6+ mats, and then you'd need spotting off the mat pile....

I paid a visit here yesterday and revise my previous thoughts about TAOWHW - probably a 6 mat double spot at the mo, however, there was chalk on it and with a wee bit of bloc rocking could fall into a highball category. The wall to the right is in need of roped scrubbing, yet may well give a very good 7b(?) and 3 mats should be enough. The new 7a just to the right is very good too and has a perfect landing. Anyone know what Si called this?

To add to the circuit, would Happy House (HVS 5C) and Blue Hawaii (E3 6B) fall into highball parameters? - both have flat landings and are excellent.

[Johnny Brown]

The new 7a just to the right is very good too and has a perfect landing. Anyone know what Si called this?

Be somebody or be somebody's fool.

Agree, good circuit in this area.

[a dense loner]

i ain't gettin on no plane

[Houdini]

"I love it when a plane comes together."

[Andy Harris]

Here's my Peak limestone penneth of boulder routes

Font 8b
Hubble (Tor)

Font 8a+
Bastard (Rubicon)

Font 8a
Don't't think there are any

Font 7c+
Jehova Kill
Karma Killer
Eugenics
Revelations?

Font 7c
Revelations?
PUTP
Inch test
Zeke
Culloden
Dialectics
Boot Boys
Kali Yuga?
Masculine Power trip

[Bonjoy]

  Have you been swallowing Rupert pills Andy? I'd say a fair few (most) of those 7cs and 7c+s could do with pushing up a notch! Either that or all the limestone bouldering in the peak is way overgraded. I presume the grade is for the whole route not just the crux?