[tc]

For some reason it's not in the Western Grit Rockfax. Perhaps, again, no-one knew about it?

No one will find it if you keep insisting it's at Helsby  :wink:

[r-man]

For some reason it's not in the Western Grit Rockfax. Perhaps, again, no-one knew about it?

No one will find it if you keep insisting it's at Helsby  :wink:

Goddamn.    Where's my secretary? And where's that work experience boy - I need more COFFEE! And why haven't I got a job? Goddamn.

[r-man]

Found some great photos on this site:

FRCC

All photos date from the 1890s and were taken by the Abraham Brothers of Keswick - they are part of the FRCC collection in Abbot Hall, Kendal.

This one is brilliant!

Mosedale Boulder (GR 178104)
The Y-boulder was a test piece for the Victorian climbers - who attacked it upside down. It is now more of historical interest but can provide passing amusement

[align=center]Bowderdale boulder[/align]


[align=center]Barn door traverse[/align]

[Johnny Brown]

Nice! Keep thinking I can see Dave Thomas...

In his famous hard grit article 'Dangerous Crocodile snogging', Dave Pegg heralded Careless Torque as the first 7b move on grit.... though if Ron came in from the left as has been suggested, this might not be the case....

[Bonjoy]

Keep thinking I can see Dave Thomas...

 Have you been suffering with this for long? Do you find yourself having to look twice at people as the image of an albino molerat fades from your mind? Do you recoil in horror when you walk into a crowded pub and for a moment all the faces which turn toward you are wearing a pale joker smile and limp white hair? Are you suffering any strong urges to tuck your t-shirt into your shorts then pull them up to your armpits? I would consider seeking medical advice right away!



Is the LH start easier then? How hard?

[andy_e]

sorry that V3 traverse at shiple glen is actually at Almscliffe and was done in the 50's

[r-man]

sorry that V3 traverse at shiple glen is actually at Almscliffe and was done in the 50's

Yeah, I thought that seemed a little out of line. Well then, we need another V3. First 6a move anyone?

V1 - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1900ish?
V2 - Parr's Crack - Brownstones - Eric Parr and friends - 1948-49
V3 -
V4 - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s?
V5 - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 70s?
V5 - The Beatnik - Helsby - Al Rouse and Martin Boysen - 1971
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7 - Red Baron - Shipley Glen - Mike Hammil - 1976
V7 - Desert Island Arete - Earl Crag - ? - 60s/70s?
V8 - Super Bald Arete - Ilkley - ? - ?
V8 - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 70s? (originally had better footholds)
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Hastion - 1979
V11 - Vienna - Bowden Doors - Pete Kirton - 1981 (before holds got bigger)
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13 - Isla de Enchanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

[Johnny Brown]

reckon you need to drop traverses as the crux is generally based on being pumped, rather than genuine difficulty.

[moose]

isn't the Wall of Horrors start generally thought (i.e. on yorkshiregrit.com) to be V3? I know it gets V5 6b in the guide but that's clearly rubbish - it's not that hard, and the route's E3 6a.  Now you need another V4 though.... (the virgin traverse?).

[r-man]

Alright, no traverses. Or I'll stick them on a seperate list and see if anyone knows the rest - though I would have thought traverses would be even less likely to be recorded than up problems. Could be wrong.

Above and beyond is back in.

Wall of horrors is down to V3. Was the arete on Joe's Slab at frogatt done at the same time as the slab?

Inertia Reel is out. Need another V12.How bout any of these?
4.      Working Class      8a+  Ben Moon           Bowden Doors
5.      Work Hard              8a+  Jason Myers       Curbar
7.      Jerrys Thing          8a+  Jerry Moffat        Burbage South

Also, when was the Ace done?
2.      The Ace                  8b   Jerry Moffat        Plantation

And does anyone know anything about that crack at Simon's Seat? I could be wrong, but wasn't Scoop Face one of the first 5as (V0) and climbed in 1914? So it would be surprising to have a 5b before that.

Also, when did Whillans do the direct start to Jankers at Frogatt? 50s? Contender for first V5?

V1 - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1900ish?
V2 - Parr's Crack - Brownstones - Eric Parr and friends - 1948-49
V3 - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s?
V4 -
V5 - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 70s?
V5 - The Beatnik - Helsby - Al Rouse and Martin Boysen - 1971
V6 - Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier - Burbage South - John Allen - 1976
V7 - Red Baron - Shipley Glen - Mike Hammil - 1976
V7 - Desert Island Arete - Earl Crag - ? - 60s/70s?
V8 - Super Bald Arete - Ilkley - ? - ?
V8 - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 70s? (originally had better footholds)
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Hastion - 1979
V11 - Vienna - Bowden Doors - Pete Kirton - 1981 (before holds got bigger)
V12 -
V13 - Isla de Enchanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

Traverses

V1
V2
V3
V4 - Virgin Traverse - ? - ? - ?
V5 - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7
V8
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9
V10 - Keel Boulder traverse - Almscliff - ? - ?
V11
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13
V14 - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000
V15 - History awaits...  :wink:

[andy_e]

what happened to "of note"? i want to see more of Cofe's Arse

[r-man]

what happened to "of note"? i want to see more of Cofe's Arse

Doesn't everyone...?

[webbo]

beatnik is a route.

[r-man]

beatnik is a route.

Yeah, I wondered about that. I'll take it off unless anyone can tell me it's been done with mats.

As for desert island arete, I just found this on Crag X:

E7  6c  Desert Island Arete  Earl Crag  Jerry Peel  1999  Follow arete direct to top

 
1999? Not 60s/70s then? Perhaps the idea of it being climbed previously is something to do with the alleged staging incident mentioned on the Dangerous site:

E6 6c  Earl Crag  Hard problem start (used to be given 6b!) leads to some wide breaks with bomber gear (large friends? Sling on spike), then a runout up the wall right of the arete (easier). Has been onsighted by Gareth Parry (2nd ascent). The photo in the old Yorkshire guidebook is rumoured to be staged.

So...

V1 - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1900ish?
V2 - Parr's Crack - Brownstones - Eric Parr and friends - 1948-49
V3 - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s?
V4 -
V5 - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 70s?
V6 - Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier - Burbage South - John Allen - 1976
V7 - Red Baron - Shipley Glen - Mike Hammil - 1976
V8 - Super Bald Arete - Ilkley - ? - ?
V8 - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 70s? (originally had better footholds)
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Hastion - 1979
V11 - Vienna - Bowden Doors - Pete Kirton - 1981 (before holds got bigger)
V12 -
V13 - Isla de Enchanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

[webbo]

i think the start had been done for few years before the top e6 bit.

[squeek]

Desert Island Arete is a boulder problem that was done in 70s (or sometime way back when) by Jerry Peel that finishes on a break from which you traverse off from or drop off.  The quote above is referencing the route which is the continuation of DIA above the break.  Earl's only at the end of the M65 you know I'm surprised you haven't been, (there's even a manky quarried bit you could explore!   )

V13 - when was the Ace done in relation to Isla de Enchanta?

[tc]

Yeah, I wondered about that. I'll take it off unless anyone can tell me it's been done with mats.

It's been done with mats. And without.

[squeek]

V13 traverse - I think the Traverse of the Gods at Longride get V13, well it probably gets something silly like 6c in the book, but (I've been told) it's about route 8b+/8c, which I think is V13.

[Bonjoy]

I'd have though a route length trav with a french grade 8b+/8c would only normally merit V11 max.

[dave]

true - things like powerbland and benz roof are always given F8b and they are only 7c/+ i.e. V9/10

[Ru]

Yeah the Craig-y traverse is V11 I'd say, for the easiest and original way. (its 8b+)

[r-man]

I'm pretty sure the longrdige traverse gets V11.

Anyway, I've started a new thread for traverses, as this one is getting quite tricky to keep up with: Sidewards history

[webbo]

going off thread slightly.isnt there a route at trowgill given f7b+ which is supposed to have a v7 crux section after 20 metres of climbing.

yeah right!!
yorkshire eh.

[r-man]

Desert Island Arete is a boulder problem that was done in 70s (or sometime way back when) by Jerry Peel that finishes on a break from which you traverse off from or drop off.  The quote above is referencing the route which is the continuation of DIA above the break.

Ok, it's back in. As is Beatnik.

 Earl's only at the end of the M65 you know I'm surprised you haven't been, (there's even a manky quarried bit you could explore!   )

I've only been back in the Northwest since September (didn't climb when I last lived here) and I've been injured since then. Hence all the exploring and large amount of time spent talking about problems and not doing them...  :roll:

Anyway...

V1 - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1900ish?
V2 - Parr's Crack - Brownstones - Eric Parr and friends - 1948-49
V3 - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s?
V4 -
V5 - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 70s?
V5 - The Beatnik - Helsby - Al Rouse and Martin Boysen - 1971
V6 - Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier - Burbage South - John Allen - 1976
V7 - Red Baron - Shipley Glen - Mike Hammil - 1976
V7 - Desert Island Arete - Earl Crag - ? - 60s/70s?
V8 - Super Bald Arete - Ilkley - ? - ?
V8 - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 70s? (originally had better footholds)
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Hastion - 1979
V11 - Vienna - Bowden Doors - Pete Kirton - 1981 (before holds got bigger)
V12 -
V13 - Isla de Enchanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

[webbo]

what about toms original at stoney v6 this was done around the the late 60s/early 70s.the hold had been glued on when i was shown it in 1975.