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Rubicon conditions reports (Read 333571 times)

abarro81

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#650 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 16, 2012, 12:19:38 pm
Na, Peckit's Problem aka Ru's Problem is using the RH pinch but not the LH crimp, going straight to the pinch from the back wall. There's a video somewhere. The way I'm talking about was very reachy, even at 6ft 2.

Andy B

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#651 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 16, 2012, 02:54:53 pm
So you went all the way to the break from the sidepull next to the crack?! That's miles!

Personally I think that Ru's direct is the superior line anyway as it naturally takes you away from the crack. That sidepull on the original is very close to the jug you're not allowed.

abarro81

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#652 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 16, 2012, 03:20:32 pm
So you went all the way to the break from the sidepull next to the crack?! That's miles!

Being tall is definitely my strong point.

Personally I think that Ru's direct is the superior line anyway as it naturally takes you away from the crack. That sidepull on the original is very close to the jug you're not allowed.

I agree. Maybe when I get back there I can claim my sequence as a double eliminate and give it 8B since short people will find it nails   :)

Ru

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#653 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 16, 2012, 09:31:32 pm
I tried this again at some point last year. There was a bit of crimp/pocket at the end of the pinch that has snapped off since I did it and I couldn't repeat it just holding the pinch. So technically I've no longer done it.

Jaspersharpe

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#654 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 17, 2012, 01:41:36 pm
Just when it looked as if this was all cleared up......

Gritlad

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#655 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 19, 2012, 10:36:54 pm
anyone been down today?

OffshoreAndy

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#656 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 20, 2012, 12:26:41 am
Yup, conditions good, close to sticky damp. Wet and muddy under Rubicon, though all climbable. People on Zeke and the other one to the left. Kudos all good.

Gritlad

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#657 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 20, 2012, 11:03:47 am
Cheers  :)

Dicker

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#658 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 21, 2012, 08:22:53 am
went and played on kudos wall yest evening (sunday) - was all pretty dry - some pockets were a little damp but generally all things do'able.

travs

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#659 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 22, 2012, 08:55:05 am
Anyone been to x? is it dry?

JayJ

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#660 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 22, 2012, 08:01:42 pm
Kudos wall dry, warm up/traverse area pretty much all dry.
The puddle under rubicon is still there though.

Andy B

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#661 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
May 22, 2012, 08:18:47 pm
Anyone been to x? is it dry?

Apparently wet today.

schloosh

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#662 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 01, 2012, 09:39:13 am
Not too bad this morning.

The very back of the slots on traverses area are slightly damp, top holds are a bit greasy but manageable.
Ground a bit clarty (sticky mud) but OK.

Didn't climb anything on the left hand side but it looked fine

spinmaster

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#663 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 01, 2012, 04:02:16 pm
Routes all under the roof holds went damp after a few uses, today. The mist was just ontop of the valley and it was hanging under the roof condensing out.

cheque

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#664 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 17, 2012, 01:23:34 pm
Anyone know if it'll be worth a visit later today?

Cheers!

Tiresias

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#665 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 18, 2012, 07:43:49 am
Had a look yesterday eve. Never seen it so wet. Kudos wall seeping, even the middle of th warmup t traverse was damp.

cheque

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#666 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 18, 2012, 10:46:38 am
Cheers mate. Glad I didn't go in that case!

T_B

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#667 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 20, 2012, 08:44:34 am
Just had a look last night - warm ups and Kudos Wall all dry and no water beneath these, though you would want a tarp for below the warm up as muddy. Midgey tho!

X was drying out well too and might be worth a look this evening...

nai

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#668 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 21, 2012, 12:56:34 pm
kudos wall holding out this morning but felt whatever the opposite of sticky-damp might be.

slackline

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#669 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 21, 2012, 01:17:22 pm
kudos wall holding out this morning but felt whatever the opposite of sticky-damp might be.

damp-sitcky? :clown:

I knew you'd head out and give it a go this morning after your undecided tweet!

rodma

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#670 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 21, 2012, 01:27:05 pm
kudos wall holding out this morning but felt whatever the opposite of sticky-damp might be.
damp-sitcky? :clown:

Saw Mariusz Pudzianowski on worlds strongest man years back trying to describe the shit conditions he had experienced during the atlas stones event, and he said something like "it is hot-sticky, not sticky-sticky, sticky-slippy" so I use sticky-slippy (said in a vaguely Eastern European accent) as the opposite of sticky-damp, although this may not be entirely pc behaviour on my part :P

nai

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#671 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 21, 2012, 01:33:26 pm
kudos wall holding out this morning but felt whatever the opposite of sticky-damp might be.
damp-sitcky? :clown:

maybe clammy-slick

Yeah, it was inevitable although ultimately pointless.

kingholmesy

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#672 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 23, 2012, 08:32:52 pm
Traverses area bouldering dry but big puddle. All routes from and inclding Rubicon rightwards dry. Routes leftwards up to and including Zeke wet. Looked like Sissy was OK.

Kudos wall all good and no puddle. Stuff around Caviar wet.

Gritlad

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#673 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 26, 2012, 02:05:57 pm
any predictions what kudos wall will be like if raven tor is condensed..... ?

bedrock

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#674 Re: Rubicon conditions reports
June 26, 2012, 02:53:19 pm
went this morning. Traverses area holds mostly dry, but puddle underfoot. Kudos - ok ish undefoot but nothing really climbable,lots of seepage and dripping from above. A bigger Prize only one with dry holds. Tried bigger splash but too wet really.

 

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