[richdraws]

Tried the Nose on Tuesday, its a gorgeous line. My mate lanked it, the git. I tried the toe hook but cant get it to stick enough to match the juggy sloper. Can I avoid the toe hook at all or am I gonna have to do bat hang training?

[Paz]

The only time I got the toe hook to stick years ago I muffed the top section.  The secret is also pulling up as soon as you get the thing on t' lip to suck your body in, but this is something Dave And Scouse do all the time and something I've fluked once.  I remember there were foot holds on the right wall that I missed in my over enthusiastic state.  If you were super flexible could you jab at them or maybe even bridge to them?

[r-man]

Tried the Nose on Tuesday, its a gorgeous line. My mate lanked it, the git. I tried the toe hook but cant get it to stick enough to match the juggy sloper. Can I avoid the toe hook at all or am I gonna have to do bat hang training?

You can avoid it. It's a little harder, but not that much. I got fed up of trying to make my toe stick and did it without. Trick for me was getting feet high at the back, one on the starting hand hold, or possibly above. You can then reach the sidepull and the low sloper. I think a kneebar helps release left hand for the sidepull. It doesn't seem to matter whether you go for the sidepull or the low sloper first. Then pop for the big sloper, hold the swing, put your feet back on and finish the problem.

[Fiend]

Tried the Nose on Tuesday, its a gorgeous line. My mate lanked it, the git. I tried the toe hook but cant get it to stick enough to match the juggy sloper. Can I avoid the toe hook at all or am I gonna have to do bat hang training?

Use the beta! I found the toe-hook was to get out from the roof and the left foot in the nostril in control, then most of the weight is on the combination of the left hand sloper and left foot nostril to go to the juggy sloper.

[Andy F]

Tried the Nose on Tuesday, its a gorgeous line. My mate lanked it, the git. I tried the toe hook but cant get it to stick enough to match the juggy sloper. Can I avoid the toe hook at all or am I gonna have to do bat hang training?

As others have said, use LF out left on the Nostril, RF toe hook by RH in undercut, LH on sidepull (get the top part of it and theres a nice dish type thing for your thumb), TRUST the toe hook and reach to the intermediate and then big slope with RH. If your short teh toe hook is pretty unavoidable IMHO, unless you just slap it on and hand the swing...

[Paz]

Is the juggy sloper the thing I can reach statically off the undercut?  I'm glad someone's making use of the nostril because it would be a shame to waste it, but I'm going to stick to my lanky method the next time I'm there. 

[8A]

The nose the lanky persons way is 7a. The method without the toehook is 7a+. The short persons method is 7b IMHO. (Assuming The Nostril is 7b - I think it is nearer 7a+ ... but never mind)

[Bonjoy]

Have a plum, either one I don't mind.

[fatdoc]

thanks for the plum......keeps me at my 5 a day.

suppose I'd better go do the problem now: in yrs gone by i think i did the *jump to the sloper* from the back method - cos i'm short and then i was a little bit strong..... these days it'll be toehooks etc... galore

having said that - it really is a damn good problem: and seems to be equally satisfying whether yr tall or short.... not too common on overhanging grit. seems reasonable that it's harder the short boys way - then then it often is!! i'm not bothered on the grade, just that i get it done.

Fiend -yr beta gets tested by me asap - thanks mate!

[Bonjoy]

 I offer a plum to 8A and all the world think they can take a piece, sheesh!!

[Andy F]

having said that - it really is a damn good problem: and seems to be equally satisfying whether yr tall or short.... not too common on overhanging grit. seems reasonable that it's harder the short boys way - then then it often is!! i'm not bothered on the grade, just that i get it done.

It's not any harder for the short, just a bit more technical IMHO. Felt 7a to me once I'd been given the beta, the hardest bit was the move off the sloper once I'd got it. Brilliant problem, one of the best I've done in the Peak.

[Steamboat Stello]

Finally went and had a crack using the beta and seems to me its considerably harder than the lanky kids method which is essentially just getting a toe-hook with your hand on a jug (6c?) . I think 7a+/b would not be unfair for the shorties method.   

[fatdoc]

yum yum... thanks bonjoy

anyone got ant more out of season fruit?

i'll prob b on this after my dawn foray to the secret garden on sunday..... get those cons and miss those crowds!!!

i really hope you can get a load of weight onto those toe hooks!!

[8A]

I offer a plum to 8A and all the world think they can take a piece, sheesh!!

Sorry boyo, I'm not very good at this forum lark. What the hell does the above mean!?

[Bonjoy]

Just thought you might want a piece of fruit. It's hungry work this bouldering

[fatboySlimfast]

Have a plum, either one I don't mind.

is plum the new apple.......(OR ORANGE god forbid!)

[Bonjoy]

The apple is a singular and irreplaceable fruit. Plums are but wind in the trees

[cofe]

[Bonjoy]

Take them away! My eyes, they bleed....!

[account_inactive]

Who ever decided to climb the nose on Sunday please not dry the entire face with chalk. 

Why not come back on a day when its not wet you fuck heads?

[highrepute]

To revive an old one - went out to The Nose armed with shortmans beta today. went from thinking this is ridiculous nobody does it like this, to sending on my second or third go. easy!

[ferret]

went from thinking this is ridiculous nobody does it like this, to sending on my second or third go. easy!

told you so..

[Fiend]

Interesting, that does look quite feasible that way, if you're flexible. *Maybe* Ferret has a point. If I'm bored enough one day I might try it.

[dave]

To revive an old one - went out to The Nose armed with shortmans beta today. went from thinking this is ridiculous nobody does it like this, to sending on my second or third go. easy!

nice one, although the tall way is easier l always thought the short beta looks really fly. just make sure the sitstart nazis don't catch you starting on the undercut.

[Darren S]

To revive an old one - went out to The Nose armed with shortmans beta today. went from thinking this is ridiculous nobody does it like this, to sending on my second or third go. easy!

nice one, although the tall way is easier l always thought the short beta looks really fly. just make sure the sitstart nazis don't catch you starting on the undercut.

Yeah the tall way is easier, IF YOUR TALL. Done it a few ways and the short mans way is a great way of doing it, feels really good, first shown it by a young Hugo G who being short of stature could only do it the short mans way. Ah when we were young............

And yeah sorry lads well done on the Vid but it does start sitting.