[Fiend]

So now you know  :roll:

[Bubba]

That's given me eyestrain!

[petje]

If the writing would be typed and not handwritten, it would be perfect way of giving beta

[Fiend]

Bubba I can send you the full size if you need it ;P Or even the original bit of paper ;P.

[bigphil]

Ou est Le Nose s'il vous plait?

[Bubba]

Burbage West.

[Fiend]

Yer. The Yosemite one starts just as the diagram indicates and then continues for another 3000 feet past various other tricky bits. Ask Lynn Hill for the short person's beta for that (don't think she did the sitter).

[bigphil]

Of course, how silly of me.  I should have known from the lack of insitu tourists.

[Steamboat Stello]

 
Just noticed your little diagram Fiend! Been trying this annoying thing for ages but can't span between the undercut and the big hold so just gave up! You put your left foot out in the big pocket thing on nostril when you've got a knee bar in the undercut it looks like? Ta, will make a return trip. 

[Dr T]

think you might be onto a winner there
when are we expecting the publication of the how to companion to the peak bouldering guide
seriously it would save me shed loads of skin every time I head up and try to remember how to climb grit again

[ferret]

seems a little complex to me. short persons beta = tall persons beta except left foot pocket on nostril right foot toe hook undercut, instead of right foot on back wall left toe hook undercu. great problem, probably more satisfying for the short

[Steamboat Stello]

 
Had a crack with this beta but it still seems very hard if you can't span from the undercut out to the good hold round the lip with your right hand. Can just reach a crap sloper below the good hold then its hard to move left hand of the undercut and onto the sidepull thing even with a knee bar! Maybe I'm just shit. 

[ferret]

move LH to sidepull first, RH still on undercut, LF pocket in roof on nostril, RF toe hook undercut next to RH, now u should be able to take edge with RH more or less static and go again to good hold. hope this helps.

[Johnny Brown]

If it feels a bit burly, just bear in mind Ferret is about 6 grades below his limit here.

[Steamboat Stello]

Cheers dude. Will give it a crack later this week.

[8A]

What are you talking about, Fiend?

Lank it.

[Scouse D]

.

What are you talking about, Fiend?

Lank it.

What he's taking about is a sequence for short people.
The thread title was a little cryptic I know

[8A]

Yes, I know, I was taking trying to wind the esoteric beast that is fiend up.

[dave]

fatboyslimfast once showed me the shortarse beta. can't really remember it though. it involved holding that LH sidepull, though to make it feel hood you don't hold it in the conventional fashion, instead get it a little more diagonal higher up and it feels loads better.

[Fiend]

LOL, this is kinda funny and cool that this is getting some attention, I'd never have thought it.

I worked this out because I had to spend a while working the problem and didn't want to forget what I'd learnt and waste energy re-working the sequence.

Ferret - it might seem complex to you but it is the easiest way that worked for me. I agree it's a better problem for the short though .

Steamboat: If you can't reach the edge marked, god only knows! Sorry. Maybe try a power-spot to confirm whether you really can't reach it?? The kneebar is to get my left hand onto the sidepull without swinging out, then I dig my left toe onto the edge, right toe up into the undercling, left foot out into the pocket, and then go for the big hold with my right hand...

[ferret]

If it feels a bit burly, just bear in mind Ferret is about 6 grades below his limit here.

true but i did climb this back in the day when it was fairly close to my limit, deffor harder for shorties but there seems to be a myth that its impossible, just trying to help

[Johnny Brown]

Ah those long lost days when I was better than you...

Goin Targa this autumn?

[ferret]

Ah those long lost days when I was better than you...

at alot of things yor still alot better than me see help the young post

Goin Targa this autumn?

in squamish right now on road trip of doom, next stop boulder n irish si's ultimate beta, then salt lake, bishop n hueco, back b4 crimbo wen u can still show me how its done on grit

[andy_e]

Tried this today, I'm halfway between lanking it and short-personing it, arse. Will do it this weekend, no sweat.

[Andy F]

move LH to sidepull first, RH still on undercut, LF pocket in roof on nostril, RF toe hook undercut next to RH, now u should be able to take edge with RH more or less static and go again to good hold. hope this helps.

Exactly the way I did it, thanks to another short bloke who came by and gave me the beta. Couldn't reach the big slope static so tried slapping for it and couldn't hold the swing. The toe hook feels precarious but gets better as you put more weight in it. The top-out was green slimy death though....