[a dense loner]

Trackside - flashed after years of getting nowhere

now is it just me... :wink:

[Fiend]

ELLO ELLO Chief Inspector Twat of the Ethics Police here, I'm getting reports of a disturbance in this thread...

[a dense loner]

there is another sky...walker

while we're on't subject. i've only been climbing roughly 10 years, what's it called when you flash somethin (i've already dropped the term onsight from my vocab, cos i'm not much use with it) n then flash the sitter next go. is the sitter still regarded as a flash?

[Carnage]

New year and new country, so new ticklist...........

If the Shoe fits - Balkans
El Kookoo - Balkans
Travis - Sissy
Burst - Sissy
Penis Cling - Sissy
Savage - Villas

Now just bring on some cool weather...........

[dave]

is the sitter still regarded as a flash?

if you've never tried summert before then its a flash. obviously not an onsight, but a flash still i recon. say of someone had done breadline that wouldn't stop them flashing beneath the breadline for example.

[Paz]

Banana Finger Direct (don't think I'll ever get it tho, am getting a complex about this one)

This took me ages when I lived up here (near The Peak), working out the precise smear to use, and put exactly the same hole in three pairs of trousers from the knee bar.  Eventually one day I just pulled harder and slapped it though.  However today, working B Reverse (slipped off last steady move off the pocket before it started properly raining - Doh), it's weird but the crux of BFD feels so much easier in the middle of it, pretty much static cos you're further in on the side pull/gaston, so maybe try that.  Crazy advice I know, trying two extra moves and a match before trying the move you can't do but they're rad and it just might work! (you could always just start matched on the side pull).

[dave]

i used to find that move on BFD ten times as hard when doing it as part of the reverse, then i realised it was cos i was dropping my left foot which i would normally keep it on when doing the normal direct.

if anyone wanta  good little variation to the normal BFD then start it standing into undercuts on the low overlap, then move up into the normal starting position - nice couple of moves extra!

[Jim]

I only did this recently and 1st time I did it I jumped for th hold and managed to hold it (which is quite hard) I've been back since and figured out hoow to do easier. the foot smear for rght foot is obvious and when you go in with knee bar, instead of pulling back on your knee against the roof to jam it, move it back and left to jam it, then I could reach the hold static. Does this make any sense? it worked for me

[SA Chris]

I haven't got a really ticklist for 2005, just hoping for the following;

Some decent cold weather in Scotland so I can swing an axe in anger. Failing that, a really mild dry winter so that rock climbing can be done.

At least a couple of powder days in Les Gets and hopefully tick Vallee Blanche in Chamonix.

Get solid on at least E1 or E2, like in my glory days.

Get to loads more Scottish destinations, and down to Northumberland more.

Get some decent surfing and mountain biking in.

Have a good trip to Font and NZ

and most importantly;

NOT fuck up my year at day one by injuring myself really badly doing something dumb on my first climbing day of the year. Saying that, we got out to Portlethen on Tuesday evening and I didn't hurt myself, so I'm doing better than last year.

NOT spend year trying to figure out what MMV is short for.

[dave]

Tip: theres also 2 other threads from the last 2 years called MMIV and MMIII Big Tickz.

[tommytwotone]

I only did this recently and 1st time I did it I jumped for th hold and managed to hold it (which is quite hard) I've been back since and figured out hoow to do easier. the foot smear for rght foot is obvious and when you go in with knee bar, instead of pulling back on your knee against the roof to jam it, move it back and left to jam it, then I could reach the hold static. Does this make any sense? it worked for me

god, I've tried everything including:

jumping for the pocket (including one v painful left shin clatter against the lower overlap)
using pebbles/clusters as intermediates
knee bars, tho been trying a "knee back" jam

cheers f't beyda Jimbo - if weather holds for weekend I'll be at Burb Nth to put the 187 down.

[hongkongstuey]

it always amazes me the trouble people have with BFD - it was my first ever UK tech 6b so i always thought it must have been a bit of a soft touch.

guess my legs etc must just be the right size for it to work well....

[RT]

OK so I realise most of you are waaay better than this but cast your minds back to times of extreme weakness. . . any good 6a/ 6b suggestions for font so I can add to my tick list?  Not keen on slopers (sorry, wierd I know), more of a crimping fan, ta.

[Fiend]

You mean English 6a-6b or Font 6a-6b?

Either way there's fuckloads of evil crimpy slabs (which Jim and Dense had to forcibly drag me away from) at those standards. And walls and shit too. Too much good stuff.

If you've never been before, take your ticklist, and throw it in the bin right now. In fact, tear it up too, to make sure you don't look it again. Just grab a few recommendations for good areas and follow the lines once you're there, man. It's just too inspiring to be hampered by a ticklist.

[dave]

any good 6a/ 6b suggestions for font so I can add to my tick list?

put it this way, you'll probably have to look hard to find a bad font 6a-6b!!

[Jim]

just go and do red circuit slab/wall problems. crimps, crimps and more nasty crimps

[Falling Down]

it always amazes me the trouble people have with BFD - it was my first ever UK tech 6b so i always thought it must have been a bit of a soft touch.

guess my legs etc must just be the right size for it to work well....

Me too (as in 1st 6b unless we count Broccolli 'n Chips on the old Edgedale Rd board) - I'm on the short 'n stumpy side of the bell curve side and have always found it a bit of a path - it's all in the left shoulder IMHO.

[Stubbs]

it always amazes me the trouble people have with BFD - it was my first ever UK tech 6b so i always thought it must have been a bit of a soft touch.

guess my legs etc must just be the right size for it to work well....

i thought it was ok, and it was pretty near my limit when i did it. Didn't use a knee bar, but had to move my hand right to the top of the sidepull, so i only had two fingers on it before i could actually reach the next hold.

Maybe it is just a body size thing though.

Things that are going down this year:
Demon Wall Roof (too short for nomal beta, struggling with heel thing)
Deliverance (might be too short - haven't tried it yet)
Handy Andy's
The Flakes @ Earl
Beaver Cleaver
Some other N Wales stuff like King of Drunks + the minimum
T-crack

that should keep me going!

[webbo]

i feel a bit anxious about setting goals this year as i will be hitting another decade in 6 months.the last time i got to oneof these times in my life i.e. 10 years ago.i set various goals like red point 7c before my birthday which lead on to injury and having to give up climbing for years.

this makes me sound sad and grade driven,which is true.

[Fiend]

Webbo, out of interest are you in any way related to Joe Webb of that scary Sandy Crag route fame?

[Pantontino]

No it's Steve - the punk - Webster. (I think?)

I recall an old B/W image of you (again I think?) on a 5c boulder problem in between the quarries at Burbage South.

I was talking to Streaky the other night about how you posted on here.

Or have I got it all wrong?

(Does Joe Webb still climb?)

[webbo]

No it's Steve - the punk - Webster. (I think?)

I recall an old B/W image of you (again I think?) on a 5c boulder problem in between the quarries at Burbage South.

I was talking to Streaky the other night about how you posted on here.

Or have I got it all wrong?

(Does Joe Webb still climb?)

oh dear i'm exposed.i shall disappear back in to east yorkshire anonymity.

[SA Chris]

Webbo, out of interest are you in any way related to Joe Webb of that scary Sandy Crag route fame?

There's that classic pic of him on it in the new Northumberland Guide. Seeing it was a blast from the past, sitting in my flat in Joburg paging through high magazine in awe!

[webbo]

I was talking to Streaky the other night about how you posted on here.

the man who gave me a rock as a wedding present.the wife was really impressed. :roll:
on the rare occasions i bump in to streaky and mention it to the missus.she usually says "who". "you know the bloke who gave us the rock"it usually blows what little credibility i have.

[dave]

2005

• Powerband, The Tor
• Blind Fig, Burbage North
• Hurricane, Curbar
• Brad Pit, Stanage
• Moffattrocity, CragX
• T-Crack, Cratcliffe
• Ben's Wall, Curbar
• Zaff's, Secret Garden
• The Good The Bad & The Beagle, Baslow
• Ronside Story, Burbage West HELL YEAH
  

whoops! forgot ronside was on me list - got it easy last satdy while most stuff was wet. nice. shame the other are all going to be a nightmare. :shock: