[tommytwotone]

yo yo, happy new year's felicitations and ting to all the UKB massive.

For me, 04 was pretty wack due to annoying cycle of train / irritiate arm injury tendon thing / rest / train / irritate it again...

Did manage to finally get Remergence done though.

Gonna get live for the 0-5 tho:

Banana Finger Direct (don't think I'll ever get it tho, am getting a complex about this one)
Jezzle's Arezzle at RHS
The easier T Crack eliminate
Brad's Arete
7 - Ball (ain't had chance to try the patented 'UKB Beta' yet)

a 7a in font, don't care which one...

also:

more kickboxing for fitness
get better at squash

having had a good leaf through the new guide, gonna add the slab SCIENCE section, up to 7a. Possibly in place of JA in view of recent events...

[dave]

don't think jerry's arete was touched by the chipper, from what i understood it was just the big jug flakes on the slab to the right of it.

[tommytwotone]

I may now be shown up for the 'off problem' cheater that I am, but I've been using a sly heel/toe-er with my right on/in/around that flake to get myself established on the arete proper...

so I guess:

a) is that not the done thing?

b) if not, is it still possible with the flake in its current state?

[cofe]

true.

[dave]

theres a path round the back you know TTT.  :roll:

[tommytwotone]

to be honest, when it comes to that particular boulder that might the only way I'm gonna get myself on top of it - can't get Jerry's, never tried the slab/flake pre-chipping and no amount of humping/thrutching is helping with the sloper mantle flava...

[Stubbs]

Things that are going down this year:
Demon Wall Roof (too short for nomal beta, struggling with heel thing) Yes! last weekend, should have obviously read to weak for normal beta, cos it's done now!
Deliverance (might be too short - haven't tried it yet)
Handy Andy's
The Flakes @ Earl
Beaver Cleaver
Some other N Wales stuff like King of Drunks + the minimum
T-crack

[Jim]

Having ticked buckstones dyno today    and very nearly doing blind date again!  :evil:  a new list is in order to get me phyched, here goes

underpants, earl
blind date, bbg north
wss, bbg west
piss & shit, higger tor
storm, plantation
brad pit, plantation
spring voyage, buckstones
lager,lager,lager, earl
blockbuster, caley
fight on black, widdop
full green trav, planataion

[saltbeef]

Can't believe you haven't done blind date yet! looked well steady today.
and the full green are you serious!!!! don't you have to have ticked that before being allowed to try blind date?

[Jim]

unfortunately 2 of my fingers started leaking claret everywhere and Dense was moaning about wasting his life away at remergance (or something along those lines)

[saltbeef]

it'll be all that sun lotion softening your skin up nicely...

[dave]

I was under the impression that you had to climb with one of these pinned to your back until you'd done the full green trav:

[a dense loner]

in jim's defence i don't think he's actually tried the full traverse, too much time at a grit eliminate wall

[james]

You can never spend too much time on gritstone eliminates!

[Jim]

word to that Keenus. You back from spain?

[Fiend]

Also in Jim's defence the full green traverse looks like one of the biggest piles of gash I've ever seen....natural line? proper starting holds? hello?

[dave]

to be fair no-one ever said it was good, just that it was obligatory. :wink:

[saltbeef]

it's all about the move... as Bent Spoon said i don't climb to be in nice places, but then the plantation is quite a nice place.

[james]

Not back yet, but I cant wait.  Been counting down the days for the last 2 weeks.  Hopefuly will be out on Fri, Sat, Sun as long as I'm not in there.
How has the weather been?

[dave]

2005

• Powerband, The Tor
• Blind Fig, Burbage North CAPPED LIKE AN NBA SALARY
  
• Hurricane, Curbar
• Brad Pit, Stanage
• Moffattrocity, CragX
• T-Crack, Cratcliffe
• Ben's Wall, Curbar
• Zaff's, Secret Garden
• The Good The Bad & The Beagle, Baslow
• Ronside Story, Burbage West HELL YEAH
  

whoops! forgot ronside was on me list - got it easy last satdy while most stuff was wet. nice. shame the other are all going to be a nightmare. :shock:

update: some not bad nick at north last nite, at least not bad for may at least!

[webbo]

did my first ever 7B+ at burbage south edge on sunday.i suspect its probably a typo though.

[Bonjoy]

Which one?

[Stubbs]

Things that are going down this year:
Demon Wall Roof (too short for nomal beta, struggling with heel thing) Yes!
Deliverance (might be too short - haven't tried it yet)
Handy Andy's
The Flakes @ Earl
Beaver Cleaver This is the on on the right? did all the moves t'other weekend, need some beef for the link now
Some other N Wales stuff like King of Drunks + the minimum
T-crack

Stuff i've done that wasn't on my list:
Red Baron
Sloping Beauty

Was at Burb South on saturday - surprised how good the conditions were in the heat! Want to do that Attitude Inspector now as well, got pretty close to it.

[cofe]

red baron is amazing.

c'mon webbo - which one? rib? desparete?

[webbo]

no the block thing in 2nd quarry.used to be B7 from standing.now 6B from standing :shock: and 7B+ from alow start.