[dave]

word up homies. Its that time of year again - time to review the last 2 years ticklists of top ten things you wanna do that year, 2003 and 2004.

Mine 2004:

• Submergence, Burbage Iced it
  
• Playhard, Curbar not really tried it
  
• T-crack, Cratcliffe not tried it this year yet
  
• Brad's Arete, Eagle Tor tried it in bad nick, got further
  
• Aerodynamite, Cuvier dispatched it like DHL
• Noir Desire, Rempart a non-starter - desp
  
• Moffattrocity, CragX not tried it this year
  
• Powerband, The Tor done all but last move in a 1-er
  
• Ben's Wall, RHS not tried it this year
  
• Breadline Iced like a cake
  

2003:

• That big dyno, Roaches Iced it
  
• Horror Arete, Kebs Got it 2nd go
  
• Submergence, Burbage see 2004
  
• Incredible Shaking Man (SS), Porth Ysgo fell repeatedly off the top easy moves :crying:
  
• Aerodynamite, Cuvier see 2004
  
• T-crack, Cratcliffe fell off high up
  
• Spring Voyage, Stanage tagged near the top
  
• That dyno R of NTBTA, Stanage Iced it
  
• The Storm, Stanage damn straight
  
• The Geek(?), Caseg boulder not been there again
  

9 out of 20 ain't great. maybe be more realistic this year............????

nah fuck it, i'll go for broke:

• Powerband, The Tor
• Blind Fig, Burbage North
• Hurricane, Curbar
• Brad Pit, Stanage
• Moffattrocity, CragX
• T-Crack, Cratcliffe
• Ben's Wall, Curbar
• Zaff's, Secret Garden
• The Good The Bad & The Beagle, Baslow
• Ronside Story, Burbage West

[Fiend]

Ah this thread, worth it to see Dave's descriptions of his success.

Pretty much all of my aspirations involve routes, and hopefully I will be doing a hell of a lot more this year as the second half of 2004 was one of the worst climbing seasons I've had, but keeping it purely bouldering:

2003:

No bouldering aspirations.

2004:

Go bouldering in Wales - Yes.

2005:

Go bouldering in Wales in cold conditions
Go bouldering in The Lakes in cold conditions
Climb a few V6s that aren't on grit


That's it =).

[clm]

most of the time in the past two years has involved getting up too late, crawling over the snake pass behing some fools, stepping out of the car and getting rained on....or all of the above wothout the rain and burning out or trashing skin on summat too hard.

so...for 2005
go to wales a bit,
do west side story,
get the rope out more (no lead above e2 for abvout 3 years now...bumbledom approaches),
do some lime climbing cos i reckon it gets you fit,
win nobel peace prize.

i think the last one is more likely than doin westside

[RopeBoy]

Just generally boulder more to improve strength and get on some harder problems, still new to this bouldering thing, I mean I do a bit but never taken it too seriously.

J  

[r-man]

Didn't really have any goals in 2004, apart from climb a grade harder, which I managed. I was aiming for a grade a year, which meant I'd be climbing B15 before I was thirty. Somehow I don't think it was the most realistic aspiration, but one small step at a time... Could be disaster now that the B grades are being killed.

Anyway, 2005:
Heal the world, or failing that, heal my elbow and let me climb again for the first time in months.
Then go back and finish...
The Press
T-Crack

Plus do at least one or two of my lancs projects in
L. Montcliffe, Lester Mill, Cadshaw, Harcles/Holcombe Hill, Deeply Vale, The Wiltons, Brownstones, Egerton

And go back to Portland and lead Hall of Mirrors.
And do some roof problems. I love em.

It's weird, but what I miss most about climbing are just those moments of pulling hard, having loads of body tension and going hnnnngh! Such a satisfying way to puncuate life.

[Pantontino]

2004 tick list

get bastard guidebook finished - ticked
go to sleep for a bit - ticked
Complete the original 'big 4' (Rock Attrocity, Sonic Boom, Barrel traverse, Jerry's Roof) by doing Jerry's - failed. Was getting close in the autumn, but got distracted by first ascent projects elsewhere.
T Crack - see: Driving round in circles thread.
Jelly Bowl Crack (awesome jamming test piece at Porth Oer) - failed, never went back in 04
do some local classics not done before - ticked loads: Foam Party, Arse Soul, King of Drunks right hand etc
Boneyard - failed - kept forgetting to go back
The Pinch - failed - kept forgetting to go back
Chocolate Wall - haven't been back for ages
do more first ascents in N Wales - did stacks of these in the Pass, and still got plenty left to do. Also developed a funky cave on Anglesey during the summer.

2005 tick list

Project number 1 in Pass - could be a while this one.
The Yorkshireman - saw this the other week and fell in love again (having gotten very close about 10 years ago)
new low sds to Mutant Child at Porth Ysgo - looks stunning
Jerry's Roof - the final furlong?
any one of the 40 odd projects or existing problems in the Pass that I want to do, but haven't done yet
Join the 100 club for Gogarth - I've done 70 odd in the graded list, but only added 3 new ticks during 04

[MB]

2004
No particualar goals aprat from to put more effort in and i did

2005
Early Doors, Curbar
Jerrys Traverse, Cratcliffe
Powerhumps, The Tor
Get back up to woodwell and tick something on the steep bit

Will be adding to this list as the year gets going.

[RT]

2004: mostly sport climb aims, shame as ended up bouldering mostly
Mezzotinter at saddletor - yup
Accelarator, portland (route) - looked at it, ate sandwiches in sunshine instead
the unworthy - got most of way up, chickened out at top
laws traverse - got on it, fell off, sunbathed instead

2005:
Do any (not soft touch) 6a at Font
Not have a major strop when can't do problems at Font
Laws Traverse at Lulworth
Rippled wall at Bonehill
Saddle Tor: the Hidden traverse, Bjorn again
Attempt to get at least half way on V7 traverse at Northcott
Go to North Wales more!
Go to Northumberland for first time.

[bigphil]

I had no goals for 2004 other than have a good year and visit more places, and I did.  Although I did mainly routes including a couple of E3s and onsighting 6c+, I visited Yorkshire (which, given I live in Shef, I should have done a long time ago).  This year I want to train harder, put more effort in and nail some proper boulder problems and those ones that I can never quite do.  I also want to get solid on english 6b and do at least one 6c.

[Falling Down]

After a couple of years in the climbing doldrums and taking exotic surfing holidays abroad I've rediscovered my enthusiasm and motivation for pulling on bits of rock.  So 2005 is set to be the year that I lead F7c+, on sight E5, I don't really have any bouldering projects (aside from The Soul Slinger if I manage to get back to Bishop), although if I have scrabbled my way up T-Crack, Westside, The Yorkshireman and spent more time bouldering in Yorkshire then it will have been a good one.

[blockhead]

2004 was a decent year. Managed to tick Brad Pitt, the storm, Zaffs at the secret gerden (thanks to Dave's photo of which holds are in), famous grouse, power humps, zippys variations at minus ten and sean's start.

2005 do the ones that got away:

powerband -  got to last move about 5 times
play hard   -  got decent beta now
spring voyage
flatworld    -   got very close
blind fig
the hulk - hard
the pinch - close

For the font trip:

carnage       - eats fingers (when you try it 20 times)
la berezina   - v close in 2004
Michel Ange  - ditto
l' ange naif   - not tried it

And:

Get Ru's guide and make a new tick list

[vivahate]

seeing as most of the problems i picked for 04 i never touched this year, 05's list will be shorter, at the moment I want to nail

Tierdrop
Clever Beaver/Beaver Cleaver (got closer than i thought I would last month)
NTBTA (never went to stanage all year!)

thats pretty much all i have at the moment, main plan is not get injuredand get stronger

[tc]

2004 was a year off pretty much.

2005:
Thirlstane (Chinese Democracy)

Glen Trool

Criffel (Concrete Wave)

Garheugh (Life is beautiful - Split Boulder)

Dumby (In Bloom - E boulder)

Loch Lomond E (the Bottler - Rob Roy's Cave)

Loch Sloy (free Energy - Roadside Boulder)

Glen Croe (Turbinal Nose - Woodwell boulder)

Glen Massan (Bladerunner - House boulder)

Trossachs (Watercolour Challenge)

Ben Ledi (Dawn Wall - Sunstone)

Glen Nevis - (Maizie Gunn - Heather Hat)

Skye - Sron na Ciche - (Snake Attack - Venom Boulder)

Applecross Boulders (north east arete Russell Boulder)

Torridon Annat - Three Streaks (graveyard boulders)

Torridon Celtic Jumble - (Squelch - Ship boulder)

Reiff in The Woods (Haven - Cube boulders)

Rhiconich - (Blood Music - Bloodstone)

Cummingston - (The Jerker)
 
Portlethen - (Turtle Traverse)

Luath Stones (Prow Direct)

Ruthven Boulder (The Big Lobowski)

Loch Buie - (Nipple attack - Mushroom Boulder)

Fionnphort - ???

Narnain Boulders (The Crucifix - top boulder)

Lewis - Post Nis (Synchronicity)

GlenClova

and a bunch of projects in the Lakes and Scotland! Should keep me busy.

[clm]

what is there to do in glen trool??? do you mean all the granite up on craig naw/ the dungeon.  i did three newies at garheugh this autumn.  none hard - details on scottish climbs.  ill try to remember to pm you next time im up...my gran lives in wigtown

[nik at work]

Hmm aims for 2005, well lets see

General climbing aims:
Start climbing regularly again (this has been an aim since about 2003, maybe this year...)

Bouldering aims:
Do something worthwhile on this springs font trip
Get a copy of the new bouldering guide

Route aims:
Onsight a couple of routes (there identities will remain undisclosed at this time to protect the innocent)
Get on a couple of old projects

General aims:
Inspire world peace, cure cancer, save the environment, invent a car that runs on water, install central heating...

[dave]

a car that runs on water is called a hovercraft. duh!!


I thank you.

[Danny]

For me its gotta be E5 onsight, the holy grail.
Theres not time to do much apart from bouldering at the mo, but when the summer comes...  :D
Targets; Right wall, Track of the cat, the nectarine run and crimson cruiser

On the bouldering front; the boneyard, done all the moves, need better power endurance, keep falling off the last dyno.
Do more at V7 and above, and find some new areas to develop.

thats it i think

[sto]

2004
beachball -- no (but need to try w/ heel toe beta)
trackside -- yes
el poussif -- no no no -- last move mental blockage
cortomalese -- yes
twister -- no
NTBTA -- yes
7-ball -- yes

2005
beachball
twister
sheep boulder
gorilla warfare
early doors
check out yorkshire and some yorkshire V6-ish's: dolphin belly slap, demon roof, new jerusalem
el poussif finally or another real 7a+ (done le p'tit toit but felt too easy) or soft 7b at font

[moose]

2004:
first year of really bouldering for it's own sake.  I feel I've done okay in terms of "ticking" but the real gain though has been discovering how great movement right at your limit can feel: cranking hard under body tension and then just launching for it... bliss.  The list:

-The Pinch, Cream Egg elim, Mr Smooth, New Jeruslam  (all Caley)  - bagged like colostomies.
-DBD, Pebble Wall (Almscliff) - Nope, so near... but now mental blocks on both.
-Neb Roof, Long Reach, (Shaftoe) - sent like FedEx
-Font Traverse (Shafote)  - Nope.
-Small & Smart  (Bridies) - Yep
-Horror Arete (Bridies) - Not tried: eunuch-esque lack of balls.
-Pair in a Cubicle - Failed.. a lot (with much skin loss)
-Manson's Walls (Shipley) - Yep

2005:
Finish last years unfinished business and aim to get steady on V5/6 with the odd forray onto harder stuff I can lank my way up. Specifically:

- boulder more away from Yorkshire grit (get to know Northumbria better).
- go to font
- Demon Wall Roof (Almscliff)
- Red Baron (Shipley)
- Cleopatra (Bridies)
- Not My Stile (Caley)

[Graeme]

Hmm, for 2004 went to the peak more, still managed fuck all.

For 2005:
The Nose, Burbage West
At Almscliff, Patta's, Demon Wall Roof, V7 on the virgin, maybe Si's Arete
Wall of Horrors Traverse.
Earl: Handy Andy's, The Flakes
Go to Whitehouses, specifically to do Bush Bully and Rageh Omar.
Go to Wimberry, to do the stuff on the Fish.
Go to Lots of New places, Northumberland, Wales etc.

[tommytwotone]

yo yo, happy new year's felicitations and ting to all the UKB massive.

For me, 04 was pretty wack due to annoying cycle of train / irritiate arm injury tendon thing / rest / train / irritate it again...

Did manage to finally get Remergence done though.

Gonna get live for the 0-5 tho:

Banana Finger Direct (don't think I'll ever get it tho, am getting a complex about this one)
Jezzle's Arezzle at RHS
The easier T Crack eliminate
Brad's Arete
7 - Ball (ain't had chance to try the patented 'UKB Beta' yet)

a 7a in font, don't care which one...

also:

more kickboxing for fitness
get better at squash

[Bubba]

For me I'll be happy with doing just about anything in 2005.

Those who know me will know I've been battling a gnarly bout of clinical depression for quite a while now and hopefully 2005 will be the year that it lifts and I will finally get motivated to lose weight, train and....well....get motivated for anything really would be good.

It'd also be nice to fully shake off the plantar faciitis and get back to thai boxing and to dig out my mountain bike again.

[Sloper]

General aims,
Lose another half stone sub 2 hours for the Robin Hood 1/2 marathon

Bouldering aims, just to do more, Irish bouldering meet.

Route aims, Narcissus, Lepton and Done years ago direct, finish my longstanding project.

General aims, to be happy.

[Control freak]

Got plenty done in 2004 thats been needin sends

NTBTA - easy but im a puff
Conan @ Moter Cap - sent
Trackside - flashed after years of getting nowhere
Early Doors - same day as Trackside, must have had my weetabix

The ones that got away
Blind Date - Its ok, Ive got short arms...
WSS - dont get me started

This year. Its kinda hard cos I is outa here in three weeks ( going travelling for 7 months then oz for a few years) but here goes
Zoo York - f**king hard but do able
Bens Groove - get scared up there
WSS, Blind Date ( who am I kidding)

Apart from that, learn to surf in time to hit Oz

[clm]

NTBTA - easy but im a puff

i new there was something funny about you as soon as i saw that dancin :wink: