[duncan]

Hello power clubbers.

M - Siurana Herbolari with Emmi. Three lowly graded routes that didn't feel easy. 

T - Siurana Primavera with Emmi. Two 6bs and two 6b+s. Shoulder conditioning: handstands and so on.

W - Siurana Grau dels Masets on my own. Abseiled La Muerte del Sponsor to check if it was a realistic prospect this trip. Slightly better hip flexibility compared with December meant I was able to go back to my original beta on a couple of key moves so this could be on as a project. Leg conditioning and flexibility.

T - Siurana Siurunella Est with Emmi. Repeated Mucho Papito, onsighted Border Line (excellent, a bolted E3!) and failed to onsight Pocapena (ditto). Feeling a bit tired. 

F - Rest day. Walked up to Montsant ~9km.

S - Siurana Grau dels Masets. Worked La Muerte del Sponsor using a Taz Lov. First time I’ve tried one and it seems very good for this purpose. It slides up the rope as smoothly as a shunt but catches and lowers like a grigri so there is no need to remove or change the device if you want to try the same section repeatedly. It was still a scary process but I’m hoping it will become a bit less so as I get more accustomed to it. I’m very inefficient at working routes but did all the climbing between the boulder problems at the start and finish in two parts. The next goal is to do this section in one which will be about 7a/+. Rain was forecast the following morning so had three separate working sessions and was pretty tired by the end. A local lad onsighted it between my tries as his warm-up (I felt less inept after discovering he was projecting an 8c nearby).

S - Battered. Rain as forecast so taking a rest day. A little shoulder and hip conditioning.

A pretty good week, getting back into the swing of climbing on rock. No recurrence of the health issue that nearly scuppered the trip and not feeling any tweaks. La Muerte is on. Would also like to onsight a 7a but it might be a stretch to do both so I’m going to focus on projecting for now.

I have had toothache (or a gum infection?) in one of my molars the whole week. This is a known issue and it may need to be extracted. Any pointers on how to find a dentist in the area? I wouldn't know where to start.

Also, the rental car had a front door lock smashed whilst parked overnight in the main car park in Cornudella. I presume an attempted break-in though there was nothing in the car of course. I’ve been renting cars in Spain for 30 years and this is the first episode of this kind so I suppose I’ve been lucky. Still a bit depressing that it should happen here, which has felt like a home-from-home, and not a bigger city. Should be covered by the excess insurance but will no doubt take time and a pain to get my money back. Doors all still function with the electronic lock, is there any need to report anything before dropping the car off?

[Wellsy]

Sounds like good time on rock Duncan, sorry about the tooth and the car

Monday - 7secs on 53 off x 6 on the 20mm edge, @25kgs added. Gentle recovery circuit.

Tuesday - short (1hr) board session, pulling session.

Weds - rested.

Thursday - Max hangs up to 55kgs on the 20mm edge for 5 seconds, an all time PB Cleans up to 80kgs.

Friday - indoor bouldering, good session. Feel much much stronger, faster, more confident etc since this training block started in Jan. Press: 3 x 8 dips, benched up to 90kgs for a single (annoyingly hard, 80 for 3 was okay tho).

Saturday - Went out to Burbage South with an old mate. Did a few problems, beautiful day. Discovered that I can now dog sit but not without dabbing the one time I got it from the bottom. I noticed people in vids overwhelmingly (as in, all of them) French the first move, is that allowed? I did, but as I did, this is about as shaky a tick can be without gaskins being involved

Friday - Weightlifting, 35kg snatches over and over to get the technique. Back Squats. Push Press up to 70kgs, pleased. Kilter; did a couple new 7As but skin failed before anything else. Some pulling training which really felt like it was the last of the tank for this weekend. 45 mins gentle yoga this evening to ease everything out

All in all a great week. Feeling probably better at bouldering than ever before, technique and strength at its peak tbh; enjoying the psyche, keen for more good weather. Long may this continue!

[Duma]

Good luck with the next few weeks Duncan, hope the car and tooth don't cause any more issues. Glad you're feeling good Wellsy, what's made the difference do you think?


M - eve, run, 6k hilly trail, muddy and slow. Just testing out my calf really, and seems to have passed which is nice
T - eve TCA, 120 min, new whites (high 6's). 18 problems, flashed 11, 3 pretty quick, 1 with a bit of work, 3 not done. DIP seems to have settled, elbow improved but ongoing.
W - eve, TCA, 120 min new whites. 15 problems (including the 3 left from yesterday), 10 flashes, 2 quick, 1 with a bit more work, 2 not done.
T -
F - lunch, Flashpoint Swindon, 60 min. Circuits, time to start putting some moves in my arms before spring. On the 4 minute mark, so approx 40% climbing time. 5, 6b, 6b,  6c, 7b, 6b, 6b, 6c, 6c, 6c, 6c, 6b, 6b, 6c, 6c. Aimed to keep pump below 50% and mostly successful, apart from being tempted by the 7b early on, and the last couple of laps.
S - lunch, Bloc, 90 min. Change of scene as the TCA comp was on. Load of mid 6 to low 7 stuff. Bit parkour for my taste but fun for a change.
S - woke up with very sore R neck/upper back, annoying and painful all day. Aft, run, 5k flat pavement, wet, cold, 27 min. Calf ok.

L DIP and golfers both regressing a little since I've been back, still better than before the holiday though. Calf seems fixed at least.

71 kg.

[Wellsy]

Honestly climbing loads and just having a happy positive mindset, accepting I'm a bit competitive but that I also do love this, etc etc

I will say taking time out (or at least, changing focus) last year to focus on lifting helped mentally and physically. Mentally it gave me a break and makes me feel more confident about my knee. Physically I feel like even though pushing a bigger squat, bench and deadlift made my bouldering worse at the time, now I'm doing a lot of bouldering specific training and climbing loads, I definitely feel way more athletic and even though I weigh a little more, on the fingerboard, the woody, and on things like weighted pullups, my max had gone up in absolute AND relative terms. So that could be it too

But really I think bouldering loads and just letting myself enjoy it and try hard

[Aussiegav]

Nice reads. Home and abroad.


Monday -

30min Peloton Tabata ride

Tuesday
Elbow operation
Check in at 7am. In theatre by 8:45am.
Had nerve block & general anaesthetic
Back on ward by 12:30pm. Spent until Friday morning in the continuous passive movement machine.  Flexing 130 degrees to 0 degrees.
Finally regained sensation in my fingers at 4am on Wednesday.

Wednesday

All day in CPM machine. Able to move my hand & fingers by 12pm.

Thursday
Had shower in the morning with another another 24 hrs of CPM

Friday
Began physio work. Basic movement extension & flexion. Noted increased movement from before. My right arm is very bruised and very swollen. 
Given a short list of exercises to do from
The physio. Had none to very little details on number sets etc…..

Did some research and built a more detailed rehabilitation session on Crimpd


Saturday
Elbow rehab sessions. 2 sessions per day
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband

30 minutes on peloton elbow discomfort was mild to moderate.

Sunday
Virgin Gym. Strength training

Elbow rehab sessions.
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband
3x10 asian squats
4x4 pistol squats

Evening elbow rehabilitation session
Off for physio appointment tomorrow at Hallamshire Hospital

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Look after arse (and knock-on effects down the leg chain) - didn't do much but seems to be okay. Keep up with physical self-care - no. Indoor volume - only a tiny bit, but needed to rest skin. Maybe increase things a LITTLE bit if body feels okay - no.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - yeah. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - a couple of blocs. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - I'd say yes this week, a social evening, couple of social sessions. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - didn't try but they're okay, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 2 (maybe) - no, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - x 1 and should have been more.


M -  2 x 6C+ (~6 attempts each).

T -  Tried 1 x 6C+ (~6 attempts).

W - Rest. Intended to stretch, failed to do so.

T - Nothing. Intended to go to either Depot Board or Blochaus with a friend. Low mood and failed to do either.

F - Indoor Bouldering @ Rockover Shartson. 4 x V1-3, 4 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (5 flashed, 1 2nd go), 5 x V4-6 (4 flashed, 1 3rd go, also attempted 3 more). Despite two rest days, better skin, and having had 6 dumps in 2 days, I felt weak and slipped off holds easily, and had a strop mid-way through. Grades were normal ones not RO Bolton softies so I probably did okay. No LingLing to cuddle. Full and overdue stretching session.

S - Leg day: 2 hours brrrrucking out to serious jungle beatz from dem manz like Type and Artilect. Also did a 6B in a few goes and a 6C+ in a few goes (after 2 previous short sessions)

S - Digging day: 1 hour digging a small ditch. Also 2 hours failing to do a 6C+ and getting hypothermia.


Mixed week. Did a couple of great boulder problems and a decent indoor session, but fell off the wagon with motivation and stretching. TE and shoulder seem to be holding up, arse is sore but functional. But need to get back on the physical self-care. Going to a jungle night was mental self-care at least.


Next week STG: Re-focus on physical self-care including stretching. Maybe increase things a LITTLE bit (inc board) if body feels okay. Mentally prepare for regaining some routes focus for spring.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab if needed x 1, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[monkoffunk]

Nice reads. Home and abroad.


Monday -

30min Peloton Tabata ride

Tuesday
Elbow operation
Check in at 7am. In theatre by 8:45am.
Had nerve block & general anaesthetic
Back on ward by 12:30pm. Spent until Friday morning in the continuous passive movement machine.  Flexing 130 degrees to 0 degrees.
Finally regained sensation in my fingers at 4am on Wednesday.

Wednesday

All day in CPM machine. Able to move my hand & fingers by 12pm.

Thursday
Had shower in the morning with another another 24 hrs of CPM

Friday
Began physio work. Basic movement extension & flexion. Noted increased movement from before. My right arm is very bruised and very swollen. 
Given a short list of exercises to do from
The physio. Had none to very little details on number sets etc…..

Did some research and built a more detailed rehabilitation session on Crimpd


Saturday
Elbow rehab sessions. 2 sessions per day
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband

30 minutes on peloton elbow discomfort was mild to moderate.

Sunday
Virgin Gym. Strength training

Elbow rehab sessions.
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband
3x10 asian squats
4x4 pistol squats

Evening elbow rehabilitation session
Off for physio appointment tomorrow at Hallamshire Hospital

Good luck with surgery recovery!



M - Post nights. Yoga.
T - Still exhausted. Yoga. Two sets of 10 - 7 on, 13 off repeaters, half crimp.
W - Gym AM - Deadlifts - light warm up, then 3 sets 5x65kg 1 set 5x80, 1 set 3x80 1 set 2x100kg.  Think maybe should have less sets total and more at the heavier weights?
Then weighted pull ups up to 12.5kg, gradual progress here. Bench press, one arm dumbbell rows, external, shoulder rotations, grip reverse bar curl. Yoga evening.
T - Yoga.
F - Yoga
S - Portland, New Cuttings. Bit of an unexpected window, but felt pretty good so tried Pastoral again. Couldn’t really have been closer. Best go blew it messing with feet when should have matched hands and gone to finish jug. Spent far too long on it. Still, best session in about a year, loads of moves, great weather, met some people. Definitely got it wired for next time.
S - Yoga

Eating dirt with pad too close to wall:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3xvddAtGTI/?igsh=eDV1dHZ0N2NyMGx1

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - spent. 2x AM session.
Wed - left ribs pain flared up again. Bentover rows, volume. Shoulder static holds.
Thu - light weights, Lattice edge mixed grips.
Fri - push ups, Tyson push ups, planks and BW squats in hotel ŕoom.
Sat - as above.
Sun ‐ AM push ups; PM 2x AM session. High pulls, back work, ab wheel static.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

Business as usual

M.
T. Evening board session - normal warmup on the fingerboard and then 1 hr limit bouldering.
W.
T. Evening board session - struggling slightly with some strange wrist pain that seems to have come from nowhere, not enough to worry about it 
F.
S.
S.

[Wellsy]

Nice reads. Home and abroad.


Monday -

30min Peloton Tabata ride

Tuesday
Elbow operation
Check in at 7am. In theatre by 8:45am.
Had nerve block & general anaesthetic
Back on ward by 12:30pm. Spent until Friday morning in the continuous passive movement machine.  Flexing 130 degrees to 0 degrees.
Finally regained sensation in my fingers at 4am on Wednesday.

Wednesday

All day in CPM machine. Able to move my hand & fingers by 12pm.

Thursday
Had shower in the morning with another another 24 hrs of CPM

Friday
Began physio work. Basic movement extension & flexion. Noted increased movement from before. My right arm is very bruised and very swollen. 
Given a short list of exercises to do from
The physio. Had none to very little details on number sets etc…..

Did some research and built a more detailed rehabilitation session on Crimpd


Saturday
Elbow rehab sessions. 2 sessions per day
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband

30 minutes on peloton elbow discomfort was mild to moderate.

Sunday
Virgin Gym. Strength training

Elbow rehab sessions.
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband
3x10 asian squats
4x4 pistol squats

Evening elbow rehabilitation session
Off for physio appointment tomorrow at Hallamshire Hospital

Good luck with recovery

[Fiend]

Yes deffo good luck with that Gav 

Eating dirt with pad too close to wall:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3xvddAtGTI/?igsh=eDV1dHZ0N2NyMGx1

Good mudslinging petulance 

[shark]

M. Tor. Bens. Can’t really remember much about it other than the cave got crowded with Leo Skinner and crew

T.

W.

T. Tor. Dismal weather. Ok connies on Bens crux section. Few goes at cross through touching the pinch then applied a bit more conviction to grab it and did it twice in a row. Several goes on the throw before getting my eye in then did it twice in a row - first time failing on cross through and second failing on kick. Then tried start and linked twice to pocket. Felt pretty good.

F

S

S PM LPT with Sonia. Was looking to jump on Statement but there was a swell and biting wind so sacked it off

Bit of a rubbish week. Going to de-prioritise Bens to concentrate on getting route fit.

[SA Chris]

Should be covered by the excess insurance but will no doubt take time and a pain to get my money back. Doors all still function with the electronic lock, is there any need to report anything before dropping the car off?

I think you are supposed to get a police report and report any incidents as soon as they occur? Have you considered taking out your own rental car insurance policy?  I get an annual insurance4carhire policy. I've only had to claim once (flat tyre and dented rim when I hit a rock in the snow on road, and they refunded me within days.