Last week's STG: Make some plans for the autumn - no. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no. Try to take advantage of the better weather: Do something challenging on a rope outside - barely, and ideally do something inspiring on a rope or above a pad outside - a little bit, try to get away from Peak/Lancs/Yorks - no. Stay focused whilst climbing and avoid silly errors - dunno. Look after my elbows - ish, still niggly.
The usual: Elbow rehab x 2 - once, Shoulder rehab x 2 - yes, stretching x 3 - twice, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - no, deadhangs (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day) - n/a.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.
M - Rest. Necessary but tedious. Felt my body seizing up as usual. Finally forced myself to do elbow and shoulder rehab at 9:30pm with the help of some old skool industrial gabber.
T - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 6 x V1-3 (flash), 6 x V2-4 (flash), 7 x V3-5 (5 flash, 2 2nd go), 5 x V4-6 (1 flash, 3 2nd go, 1 worked). Attempted a few more V4-6 and a few V5-7 (which is obviously a bit silly because I can't climb V5-7 without a multi-hour seige). Decent session, but wall dog LingLing the highight as usual, also could have been a bit more tactical (me, not the dog - she's very tactical). Tried to focus on reducing silly errors which worked a bit. Elbows okay. Shoulders okay but stiffness / pain in neck after. Knees felt pretty creaky after inactive Monday and took ages to warm into dropping off. Stretching session.
W - Active rest - Easy route & easy bloc @ Hobson Moor. Of no real consequence. Neck sore and weird pains into shoulders. Tired after the day before. Shoulder rehab and some stretching.
T - Active rest / shoulder fatigue / idiocy - 2 hours excavating at Lester Mill. Hard-ish but not too sustained. Right shoulder a bit sore after. Generally achey but probably due to sharing bed with a small, but bed-hogging, labrador the night before.
F - Active rest / pessimism training - a bit of Easy Trad. A couple of pleasant routes and failed on a low extreme route because I was too scared to commit to blind moves. Demoralising.
S - Easy Trad @ Deeply Vale & Wilton 2. Actually counts as climbing because as well as some easy routes I actually tried hard on one route and got up it. Also tried hard on another route and came off because it was actually hard. Decent day out that felt a bit more like climbing. Early steps... Climbing partner also liked having jungle on in the car which helped.
S - Easy Trad @ Wilton 1. A few easy things and one slightly daunting low-extreme that went fine and was good fun. Another decent day out that felt a bit more like climbing, even though I didn't do very much. Should have done rehab and stretching but a bit tired and lazy. Most niggles okay.
Okay week. Got back on the wagon with actually climbing and mixed results but the weekend showed a bit of (distant) potential. Lack of getting away is rotting my soul from the inside out.
Next week's STG: 1. Make some plans for the autumn. 2. See 1. 3. See 1. Etc etc. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers. Get away from Peak/Lancs/Yorks if weather allows. Try to rally support amongst the few partners who might be keen to get away. Do something challenging on a rope outside, and ideally do something inspiring on a rope or above a pad outside. Do one bouldering training session and one routes training session indoors.
The usual: Elbow rehab x 2 , Shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs if appropriate.