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Ultimate Nemeses (Read 38297 times)

Moo

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#75 Ultimate Nemeses
November 28, 2004, 06:58:44 pm
Bloody steffan grossman on the langdale boulders. Been to try it about 6 times now, can get my hand over the top but aint managed to stick the final hold.
Also in northumberland, the motherland, one on the main buttress of shaftoe. it starts at the very back of the roof, and comes out via a break and a poor crimp, then goes over a bloody mono at the lip of the slab before turning into a highball top out. it gets 6b/c but feels a lot bloody harder than that to me, then i guess most of do till you get em.

cofe

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#76 Ultimate Nemeses
November 28, 2004, 07:59:55 pm
ive done bashers so it can't be that hard

scouse is like a shark, just avoid him when he's hungry

a dense loner

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#77 Ultimate Nemeses
November 28, 2004, 09:10:28 pm
it is hard to be hungry when the climbing is so good

Jim

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#78 Ultimate Nemeses
September 20, 2005, 10:00:56 pm
managed to put the nose to bed this evening. its now curled up in ball and snoring peacefully. now just gotta put shit and blind date to bed. damn

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#79 Ultimate Nemeses
September 21, 2005, 03:05:35 am
anything in font thats less than vertical regardless of the grade

is sweet thing still possible thought the crimp was smashed?

Bonjoy

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#80 Ultimate Nemeses
September 21, 2005, 08:27:43 am
I doubt what's left of Sweet Thing is climbable :( .

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#81 Ultimate Nemeses
September 21, 2005, 08:40:30 am
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
I doubt what's left of Sweet Thing is climbable :( .


Left of sweet thing is a grassy gully - this is certainly climbable.

:wink:

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#82 Ultimate Nemeses
September 22, 2005, 01:14:24 am
classic in the making

MB

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#83 Ultimate Nemeses
September 22, 2005, 11:30:53 pm
Early Door's, tried this many, many times.

Rattle and hump was one, now power humps is!

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#84 Ultimate Nemeses
September 23, 2005, 03:32:18 pm
Crescent Arete would have to be mine.

I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point. :evil:

On the slightly harder but less scary front I still have not managed the full green traverse despite finding the shorter version alright going.  I again failed only a couple of moves before the end.  I reckon "it's all in the mind".

Jim

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#85 Ultimate Nemeses
September 23, 2005, 07:47:33 pm
the tops the easy bit?
ticked sickle crack on the sheeps head block at bbg sth this pm. another nemesis bites the dust!

Moo

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#86 Ultimate Nemeses
September 23, 2005, 10:19:36 pm
Ok I sent steffan from the standing thak god, so now I've moved onto the sit start to picnic sarcastic. I can do all the and link all but the last move together. I've been up to the last move out left for the jug about seven times and just fudged it every time or pumped out.

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#87 Ultimate Nemeses
September 26, 2005, 05:30:13 pm
Quote from: "DScuffle"
Crescent Arete would have to be mine.

I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point. :evil:

On the slightly harder but less scary front I still have not managed the full green traverse despite finding the shorter version alright going.  I again failed only a couple of moves before the end.  I reckon "it's all in the mind".


question?

you can rinse out the crux of GT but not the pizzazz easy moves at top of CA? Word to the wise - bit of right heel or toe hooking on the arete and it'll be all gravy.

Rice Boy

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#88 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 10:41:05 am
"I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point." DScuffle

"I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point." Rice Boy 2003/4/5/6.......

Keep fingering the top of Deliverance. Will sell my soul for beta on that bugger.

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#89 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 10:57:43 am
strawberries still can't quite do - infuriating

had a good year this year and finished off the other old nemesis's  :D

need to find me some new ones.

this winter im going for the flash of pockman (slab one not puck ) hope i make it, i've been waiting for the right time for ages!

also - one tried and failed once but when i go to caley again i'd love to get mr smooth done and bobs bastard

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#90 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 11:04:06 am
the slot on the sloping top at wimberry -  despite having pissed up local hero and getting baxter's wall (the 6a+ version) third go i still couldn't do it. its only V0 (5b) fer fucks sake!

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#91 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 11:23:47 am
Quote from: "andi_e"
the slot on the sloping top at wimberry -  despite having pissed up local hero and getting baxter's wall (the 6a+ version) third go i still couldn't do it. its only V0 (5b) fer fucks sake!


shit the bed.you've actually gone to a crag outside lancashire.

andy_e

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#92 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 11:29:40 am
Quote from: "webbo"
Quote from: "andi_e"
the slot on the sloping top at wimberry -  despite having pissed up local hero and getting baxter's wall (the 6a+ version) third go i still couldn't do it. its only V0 (5b) fer fucks sake!


shit the bed.you've actually gone to a crag outside lancashire.


yeah wnet to bridestones the weekend before!

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#93 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 11:46:46 am
Quote from: "andi_e"
having pissed up local hero


That's really quite unethical.

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#94 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 12:28:50 pm
On a Wimberry tip and whilst talking about failing (something I am so good at):  I must have tried the sitter to Fish Arete something like 7,403,663 times yet still can't manage it.  It's the last slap into the stand up that foils me everytime.  Even absolute zero conditions last winter and I couldn't do it.

Likewise, the sitter to Incredible Shaking Man at Porth Ysgo.  Must have got on that like 200 times and not done it.  

(Note to self: don't ever bother with these problems again.  Walk away, it's not worth it)

Jim

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#95 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 12:33:33 pm
Which bit on ISM? on't stick it and other people go over to ledge with RH. I went with LH, its easier and you also don't risk falling down the big gap in't rocks if you don't hold it

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#96 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 12:39:13 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
Which bit on ISM? on't stick it and other people go over to ledge with RH. I went with LH, its easier and you also don't risk falling down the big gap in't rocks if you don't hold it


I can cruise up the first couple of moves but then get stuck just before the big move to the ledge.  Just can't bring my left foot round from where it started.  Going left sounds a good idea, I'll try it next time as I seem to remember that I've always gone right first.  Thanks.

Jim

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#97 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 12:45:35 pm
I presume you do the real mans start as opposed to the gypo start. I do gypo start so LF is there, then when get sidepull, match feet, take left off and flag, get RH hold (balancy + subtleness required) swap back feet and throw with LH to ledge

moose

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#98 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 12:50:13 pm
Managed a few of my nemeses this summer - Demon Wall Roof and Dreamland at Almscliff, Ripper Traverse at Caley (the crux was deciding to attempt it spotterless), Cave RHS at Bowden etc.  

This winters projects are the standing version of Pinky at Brimham (got to the top-out ages ago but bottled it and since seem to have lost ability to use the mono), Red Baron at Shipley (have repeatedly got RF on and then matched the arete but can't do owt with LF and very slowly barn-door off (pop for the top I think , rather than try to static it), and Horror Arete (take spare matt!) ... but the main one is Hitchhiker's at Kyloe - the number of times I've crossed my RH through for that flake , felt it, but been unable to curl my fingers around in time... arrgggghhhhhhhhhhhhh!

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#99 Ultimate Nemeses
September 27, 2005, 12:52:05 pm
Quote from: "moose"
Ripper Traverse at Caley


did that other week. very good/green isn't it.

 

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