[moose]

probably my favourite "moves" this year - nice technical traverse with a curious-feeling teeter into the groove,  lovely.  I'd walked past it for years and not even touched it; but, recently, at the end of a long days boulder,  decided to give it a quick "feel".  The plan was to maybe work out the traverse and come back another day with an extra mat.  10 minutes later I was standing in the lichenous groove, at a loss as to how to reach the top, weighing up whether to leap off sideways and try to hit my mat (handily protecting the traverse!).  Used up an entire chalk-bag contemplating my fate in the near-dark before deciding to smear my way to safety (and that top-out isn't as positive at it looks from below isn't it?)..... happy days!

[DScuffle]

question?

you can rinse out the crux of GT but not the pizzazz easy moves at top of CA? Word to the wise - bit of right heel or toe hooking on the arete and it'll be all gravy.

It's not the moves that were to hard, more that my head is to soft.  The top looked so close, but it meant getting further from the ground which looked so far away.  Unrational brain kicks in and before I know it I'm  downclimbing back through the crux.

Surely other people have nemesis (nemisii :?: ) which are not physical, more mental.  

Or am I the only pussy on UKBouldering :?

[Jim]

not done it for a while but I'm sure the holds are absolutely massive at the top of CA with some good footholds as well and topping out is less scary than reversing

[Bonjoy]

There's plenty of things I repeatedly get within a move of doing, but the always bottle it. Spare Rib (Brutal Arete is never going to catch on), Sauvitto and the SW arete of the pebble (on either side), off the top of my head.

[cofe]

sure i've seen you reverse CA. mental.

Surely other people have nemesis (nemisii :?: ) which are not physical, more mental.  

hands up anyone who's happy to traverse off from the pocket on west side story? tag back of hand and drop off on deliverance? match chip on the keel and drop off?

[DScuffle]

Downclimbing, in hindsight, was much harder, perhaps I could claim a new problem Crescent Arete reverse (but I haven't done the first few moves so I guess the FA is still waiting ).

Spare Rib - what a line, it looks scary enough from the ground, and I always find lines look bigger (and way more scary) when you get half way up them.  Has anyone done the Arete Right of it yet :?:

[lee white]

Having climbed a few eights taking no more than a day or two max for each.:

Hold on, What 8's were they mate ? same as tony simpson's ?

[Carnage]

On good ol' Aussie rock -I finally did Travis (Obe does this in the Frequent Flyers vid) at Sissy a couple of weeks ago and Detonator will go very soon. Bonjoy will know these I expect.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, I remember them both being class.
 Do you ever bump into a guy called Matt Kelly out on the Sydney crags? Say hello from me if you do.

[Fiend]

Not counting things I've irretrievably fucked up by failing to onsight them, these are some things I've kept trying (all without pads)...

The Trial, Bowden Doors (have climbed up and down from the crux several times, getting pretty good at that which is scary in itself).

Silly Arete, Tremadog (failed to second when I was a newbie, later retreated on lead due to rain).

Swine, Wilton 2 (up and down to crux several times in one session).

Absent Friends, Cheedale (reversed twice from tricky wall bit, although wasn't trying easier RH version).

Rainy Day Blues, Turning Stone Edge (reversed twice from hideous campus moves over roof).

The Knock, Burbage (attempted and reversed from lower crux a few times)

Finger Distance, Curbar (ditto)

[cofe]

Absent Friends, Cheedale (reversed twice from tricky wall bit, although wasn't trying easier RH version).

had to rest on that after spending 12 hours knitting the lower wall. not really a nemesis but certainly summink i wanna clear. remember using my 7 quickdraws up pretty quick and extending wires with friends higher up. great route.

[webbo]

Not counting things I've irretrievably fucked up by failing to onsight them, these are some things I've kept trying (all without pads)...

The Trial, Bowden Doors (have climbed up and down from the crux several times, getting pretty good at that which is scary in itself).

Silly Arete, Tremadog (failed to second when I was a newbie, later retreated on lead due to rain).

Swine, Wilton 2 (up and down to crux several times in one session).

Absent Friends, Cheedale (reversed twice from tricky wall bit, although wasn't trying easier RH version).

Rainy Day Blues, Turning Stone Edge (reversed twice from hideous campus moves over roof).

The Knock, Burbage (attempted and reversed from lower crux a few times)

Finger Distance, Curbar (ditto)

i'm not sure how much a pad would help on absent friends. :wink:

[sharkey]

The Trial is just that,i think most climbers have the same experience, one day when everything is going right it just clicks and you pull through that top bulge, hard won and very satisfying, certainly if it is at the top of your grade anyway.

[Fiend]

Webbo, it would keep your feet out of the usual Chee Dale muck  :wink:

Sharkey, well I think The Trial has got a bit easier now it's (rightly) gone up to E3  :wink:


I'll also add:

Slate
Gogarth
(never seem to get it organised to do what I'd like there)

[Carnage]

Yeah, I remember them both being class.
 Do you ever bump into a guy called Matt Kelly out on the Sydney crags? Say hello from me if you do.

Yeah, I know Matt. He's a really good guy. I'll say 'Hi' for you. In fact, here he his gurning away at Bungonia.......

[Bonjoy]

Haha, and there he is. Tell him to get his ass in gear and do a Europe trip. I've been goading him about it for ages.

[c.j.d.]

My ultimate nemesis is no more.  Jerrys Problem, Sheep Pen.  I was getting close to this (hitting the slopey rail) before the old guy popped up and cruised it, leaving a V9 in his wake (about 7 years ago I think).  Katz and Cattel managed it after this at a more realistic V10.  Still no joy for me  though (its going on a bit now).  So finally, after katz tells me the intermediate crystal collection/pocket has gone shit, and now worthy of V11 (?) I finally haul my fat ass up the thing - fag on top of the boulder?  You bet.  Thank fuck for that.

[squeek]

I finally haul my fat ass up the thing - fag on top of the boulder?  You bet.

Are you into self homo-abuse or just getting the insults in before someone else does?  

[Fiend]

The wales mafia is pretty close knit  :wink:


Funny how nemesii get more feasible when they get upgraded....

[BenF]

The wales mafia is pretty close knit  :wink:


Funny how nemesii get more feasible when they get upgraded....

Well that's the thing about a true nemesis.  You know you should really be able to do it, you get soooo close and the grade well within your abilities but for some reason you keep on failing.

King of Drunks was a perfect example for me that finally went with a bit of effort.  Now Catelepsy at Pex is getting there.  Perfectly within my abilities, can cruise nearly all of it but still I ain't done it despite doing hundreds of harder stuff since I first tried it.  Something inside me tells me I will never climb it.

[Andy F]

The wales mafia is pretty close knit  :wink:


Funny how nemesii get more feasible when they get upgraded....

Well that's the thing about a true nemesis.  You know you should really be able to do it, you get soooo close and the grade well within your abilities but for some reason you keep on failing.

King of Drunks was a perfect example for me that finally went with a bit of effort.  Now Catelepsy at Pex is getting there.  Perfectly within my abilities, can cruise nearly all of it but still I ain't done it despite doing hundreds of harder stuff since I first tried it.  Something inside me tells me I will never climb it.

I feel the same about Breakaway  :x  :x  :x

[BenF]

Yeah and you're dead close on Breakaway too.  It's proper hard though.  Plus it's reachy and I know how much you love long reaches Andy! :wink:

[cowboyhat]

WHAT! I have seen you at the tor, all this time you're harbouring a dark secret. You really have no excuses:
Normal Height
Long Arms
Strong Fingers
Visited the Tor over 500 times...

That is why this thread is called nemesises. I'd get on with it before the guide reprint comes out and ru has given it 7b+

[Fiend]

I'd have thought one attempt on Breakaway would be enough. In fact, I'd have thought attempting Breakaway and not succeeding would not be the sort of thing you've survive to have as a nemesis.

We are talking about the Mick Fowler "triple dagger" Culm Coast horror-show Breakaway, aren't we??




....which leads me in an exciting thematic link onto a further nemesis that could also easily be confused with a sea-cliff death route albeit somewhat tamer:

Conan The Librarian - determined to do this as a route, onsighted the start sans mats but had to retreat off the top soloing as it was damp. Went back with a rope, did the start first go again, shoved in loads of gear, faffed for ages, and gave up. Annoyingly I'm tempted to go back in my committment gets better...

[cowboyhat]

A biscuit for anyone who can figure out where my last post on this thread is supposed to go...