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Ultimate Nemeses (Read 38313 times)

Bonjoy

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Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:05:34 pm
Years come and years go and I still keep failing on the jump to the break on West Side Story. Likewise with Deliverance. It must be something about jumping off poor smears whilst laying off a RH sidepull, that my brain just won't accept.
 What be your ultimate Nemeseeees then?

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#1 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:12:07 pm
Nemesii, surely??

Mine: Climbing routes with confidence and normal, uninhibited mind.

Everything else pales into extreme insignificance compared to that. And if one has to say a specific line as an answer, well, that makes every low-mid extreme route I haven't done a nemesis (potentially).

Boulder problem-wise, ah, ummm, getting remotely feasible conditions on Sulky Little Boys. Next time, I'm going at night.

Bonjoy

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#2 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:17:29 pm
Nemeses according to spell check on Word, for what that's worth.

fatboySlimfast

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#3 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:20:17 pm
Piss at Higgar, can i do it? Can i fuk
Buckstone dyno......ditto

Johnny Brown

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#4 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:21:51 pm
Was at the plantation on saturday and was reliably informed by the bush telegraph that you had finally just succeeded on WSS. So was that bollox then? I'll have to give you the masterclass sometime... :P

Seriously though, I've got some good beta on a left foothold that has helped others nail that last move... what's it worth??

dave

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#5 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:34:44 pm
i think i might be partly responsible for the lovejoy-WSS rumour, still not sure if it was true or not. I still swear that birkby came off the phone and said you'd done it. question!

Bonjoy

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#6 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:38:26 pm
Yeah, that was bollox. The Champagne is still on ice.
 Ultimate technical mastery is my aim this winter (codfinger has put paid to my power ambitions - 'if you can't be strong, be good') so the masterclass is probably in order. Do you take payment in Royal Jelly?

Bonjoy

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#7 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:40:47 pm
Ahh the Birkby is to blame eh?! Seeing as he's sat opposite me at work these days I can deal with him right away.

dave

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#8 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:42:52 pm
sorry about the rumourmongering then :oops: i swear he said you'd done it!

dave

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#9 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:44:25 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Ahh the Birkby is to blame eh?! Seeing as he's sat opposite me at work these days I can deal with him right away.


word, and find out how he got on with ulysees or bust anall. :shock:

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#10 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 12:47:40 pm
Still haven't done Demon Wall Roof, but I've given up trying knowing its not a lack of strength its just lack of any discernable talent.
And then there's Si's Arete, and then there's the V7 on the front of the virgin, then there's Patta's Arete, and thats just bloody almscliff.

Then if we move on there's everything above 5c at Earl.

Christ I'm shit.

dave

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#11 Re: Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 01:05:52 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Years come and years go and I still keep failing on the jump to the break on West Side Story. Likewise with Deliverance. It must be something about jumping off poor smears whilst laying off a RH sidepull, that my brain just won't accept.
 What be your ultimate Nemeseeees then?


i've got a lot of things i've tried a fair bit but not yet done (i.e. brad pit, blind fig etc) but nothing that feels like nemesis material yet, they feel like they'll deffo go just a matter of time.

i suppose the only thing that comes close is T-crack, cos i always piss the bottom then fall off the top, split a tip etc, but probably not tried it for a year or so.

aerodynamite WAS my nemises, but it recently got capped like a bad tooth. :8)  :guns:

Jim

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#12 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 01:06:28 pm
Quote from: "fatboySlimfast"
Piss at Higgar, can i do it? Can i fuk
Buckstone dyno......ditto

I feelin that vibe an'all plus a long list of other probs that I can nearly do.
(underpants, blind date, wss, blockbuster etc....)
Currently been on bad form for last few weeks so

squeek

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#13 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 01:12:47 pm
Hanging Arete, Earl.  Probably tried it nearly everytime I've been for the last  year and a half.  In that time I've managed to pull myself up a lot of other problems that get a harder grade than V4, but I still can't do the thing.  I've stopped trying now because it pisses me off so much.

I've had a few nemises, but I seem to have got through them all this summer. Out Of Sight at Bridestones was a problem that I tried everytime I went for probably 15 visits before dragging myself up it.

dobbin

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#14 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 01:22:43 pm
Powerband at the Tor. Despite being able to do all of Powerband and climb to the match on PUTP I cannot do the last move on the link. Not for love or money (or royal jelly).

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#15 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 01:30:03 pm
WSS is definitely up there. Got new sequence last year which makes the start piss but still failing on the top, though its a miracle Ive managed to get that high. And dont even get me started on Blind Date - can I do the move to the break? Can I fuck. Ive given it a good tickle tho.

 With an impending move to Oz theres not much time left
javascript:emoticon(':x')
Mad

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#16 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:06:44 pm
I found that the hard bit of WSS was ignoring all people walking along and giving me beta on their way that makes it 5c.

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#17 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:08:31 pm
Quote
With an impending move to Oz theres not much time left


I've heard that with proper beta, the move to Oz is only 5c as well. :wink:

Control freak

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#18 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:11:42 pm
Its more like Fb8b with a cheeky toe hook that only the locals know. Been 11 months now and still no visa. Shite doesnt even begin to explain it

 :cuss:

dave

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#19 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:11:49 pm
I found the hard bit was not being put off by the sound of stu little's teeth grinding together when he saw me miss out his first 15 moves. :up:  :wink:

the best thing on WSS is that theres a different sequence for everyone, its just takes time to work out what yours is.

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#20 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:23:00 pm
Black 22 at Elephant despite climbing things with bigger numbers and getting the good hold out left I'm to tall enough / flexible enough to do the next (easy move) and yes I know about the heel / toe on the right.

Others include deliverance (given up I'm just too short and shit) Demon Wall Roof and a cast of 1000's

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#21 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:31:24 pm
Font, spiritual home of the nemesis!

#1: Angle Parfait. Every visit I  try and every visit I get nowhere.

#2: Angle Jean-Luc at Sabots. 6b+? Solid 7b+ for sure!

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#22 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:34:03 pm
Whilst in Leeds it was always pebble wall, what an arse, think i tried every sequence known to man, rubbish. Now its probably the nose at burbage, can i top it out, answer- no!

grimer

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#23 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:37:53 pm
That's very new age of you Dave. And I suppose there's no such thing as strangers, only friends you haven't met? (insert smiling annoying yellow thing here.)

dave

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#24 Ultimate Nemeses
November 22, 2004, 03:42:08 pm
word to that brother.

boulder problems are human beings too.
chipping is murder.

 

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