Maybe you could try the in vogue 4 finger half crimp on an edge, I know alot are trying this ATM.I can just about hang bodyweight on a 14mm edge doing it now, have noticed when I full crimp my pinky is adding alot more support going into that half crimped position, where as before my pinky would drag even in full crimp in most cases. Seems like it would have alot of carry over for full crimp, which I believe is the desired effectI've mostly been doing it whilst warming up at the crag, (after doing a decent number of normal half crimp hangs) doing a bodyweight 4 finger half crimp pull on my portable fingerboard feels alot harder than doing a weighted max hangs session in half crimp for me...
I literally can't get my pinky bent 90 degrees at the PIP joint and on the same edge as my other fingers. Huh.
I pissed around on a fingerboard for a while trying to find any position where my pinkie bent like that and no chance. I think it might be due to the size and shape of my hands.
Quote from: Wellsy on September 08, 2022, 10:09:04 pmI pissed around on a fingerboard for a while trying to find any position where my pinkie bent like that and no chance. I think it might be due to the size and shape of my hands.What position is your little finger in when full crimping? This grip should essentially be the same position for the fingers as that just without the thumb over!
If both your joints were at 45 then your fingernail would be digging into your hand 😂
OT - as another "crimp everything" climber, I wonder if it's affected my wrist stability on slopers - engaging the thumb with the wrist in flexion naturally stabilises it, whereas on large slopers with the wrist in extension my wrist feels very unstable to the point of subluxing (don't know if this is the right word) and stopping me doing certain moves. I find it very hard to train open without my wrist(s) feeling like I'm damaging them somehow.
It's quite funny to see that most people don't like crimping. When I'm climbing something fairly hard, I will look to crimp everything,...
I've no doubt crimping on a hangboard is a good idea and the pinky can be trained in a crimp position but can you train getting into that position? Has anyone gone from being unable to get their pinky into that position without use of their other hand (therefore totally useless when climbing) to being able to crimp with their pinky? My hand when crimping: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MPPrLEHhZXFAtnjm9
My hand when crimping: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MPPrLEHhZXFAtnjm9
Quote from: YorkshireTea on September 09, 2022, 10:37:24 pmMy hand when crimping: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MPPrLEHhZXFAtnjm9That's bizarre! Sorry but is that really the position your pinky sits in when under tension? Just doesnt make sense to me, I don't understand how you could be resisting tension with the joints at that angle.
Yeah that's the position with front three in a high angle crimp. Means it feels like I'm getting absolutely nothing from the pinky but I physically can't get it into another position
you mean as a result of DC, or responsible for DC?
I don't know; maybe it is just utter nonsense...
...there seems to be very little / no link at all between any activity and DC,...
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