Greetings to those sticking at it in the dog days of Summer.
M - Shoulder/wrist conditioning: handstands, reverse curls, side planks.
T - Westway - 300m of easy on the autobelays.
W - Glyndebourne - Tristan und Isolde. Standing at the back in the gods for four hours (have you seen the price of seats?). Utterly glorious music and a fabulous production, I was in tears at several points.
T - Down to Weston. Shoulder conditioning.
F - Could only manage to get away for a couple of hours in the afternoon and the tide was in which limited me to Uphill Quarry. Purple Sue was happy to take the time off from house repairs. Connies were not primo: you could have fried an egg on the rock. Started with Age of Extinction (6a+, 4, 6a+) doing the three pitches in one. Pleasant enough but not one of the better routes here. Repeated Santa’s Bulge (6c/+) twice, the first time with a ridiculous sequence on small crimps, the second time with a bit of a span for what I imagine is the usual method. Either way felt quite punchy for 6c and I had to try somewhat hard, not entirely due to the conditions.
S - Back to London. Started fingerboard session but tweaked right elbow warming up. Britten’s War Requiem at The Proms, a piece I admire rather than love but was on a three-line whip to attend.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Hip flexibility: prone frog stretches, sumo squats, standing pancake stretches. Fingerboard pick-ups: left hand only to 43.5kg on the 18mm edge, a PB I think.
Family duties meant climbing:driving ratio was way off this week. Stupidly tweaked right elbow again attempting to train when not adequately rested, muscularly or generally. Looking for positives, I am slowly getting markedly stronger at pick-ups and also seem to be more comfortable using small holds than I have for a long time. Come autumn I hope this transfers to some harder climbing.
Off to Italy for a family holiday on Tuesday. No climbing for the next couple of weeks or so but there might be some Via Ferrata-ing.
M - Shoulder/wrist conditioning: handstands, reverse curls, side planks.
T - Westway - 300m of easy on the autobelays.
W - Glyndebourne - Tristan und Isolde. Standing at the back in the gods for four hours (have you seen the price of seats?). Utterly glorious music and a fabulous production, I was in tears at several points.
T - Down to Weston. Shoulder conditioning.
F - Could only manage to get away for a couple of hours in the afternoon and the tide was in which limited me to Uphill Quarry. Purple Sue was happy to take the time off from house repairs. Connies were not primo: you could have fried an egg on the rock. Started with Age of Extinction (6a+, 4, 6a+) doing the three pitches in one. Pleasant enough but not one of the better routes here. Repeated Santa’s Bulge (6c/+) twice, the first time with a ridiculous sequence on small crimps, the second time with a bit of a span for what I imagine is the usual method. Either way felt quite punchy for 6c and I had to try somewhat hard, not entirely due to the conditions.
S - Back to London. Started fingerboard session but tweaked right elbow warming up. Britten’s War Requiem at The Proms, a piece I admire rather than love but was on a three-line whip to attend.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Hip flexibility: prone frog stretches, sumo squats, standing pancake stretches. Fingerboard pick-ups: left hand only to 43.5kg on the 18mm edge, a PB I think.
Family duties meant climbing:driving ratio was way off this week. Stupidly tweaked right elbow again attempting to train when not adequately rested, muscularly or generally. Looking for positives, I am slowly getting markedly stronger at pick-ups and also seem to be more comfortable using small holds than I have for a long time. Come autumn I hope this transfers to some harder climbing.
Off to Italy for a family holiday on Tuesday. No climbing for the next couple of weeks or so but there might be some Via Ferrata-ing.
opcorn:
