I often feel like Tyler just comes up with a load of stuff to fill in another podcast episode and try and sell a few more strain gauges through his website!
What I really struggle to understand with this is that in @c4hp example video (video 7, on the 45) all of the moves are very slow/static, and that just doesnt make logical sense to me if the handholds are small/bad enough to be working finger strength, even if the moves are very small. When climbing on holds that are taxing for the fingers surely by necessity the moves must have a speed component? The point about skill in grabbing holds also doesn't make sense to me; grabbing holds slowly surely just indicates an easy(/ier) move; the skill in taking a hold quickly is totally different (e.g. hitting an edge open handed and engaging on it to stick the move, then closing up into a crimp to pull on it - trying to do that slowly just doesn't make sense as it's completely unnecessary if you can go that slow).
Quote from: teestub on September 07, 2022, 01:30:21 pmI often feel like Tyler just comes up with a load of stuff to fill in another podcast episode and try and sell a few more strain gauges through his website! He certainly likes to package things as being revolutionary and very clever. However, when pushed he rarely explains well or engages, he blocked me from posting on his insta posts for a while and I don't even remember being mean! He also seems very bad at extrapolating beyond his very limited experience - e.g. to trying to actually be good at sport climbing. It's a pity - he has lots of interesting ideas and it would be cool to get to the bottom of which ones are worthwhile and which aren't... but he shows no interest in that, instead posting in a very prescriptive way, not distinguishing between opinion/hypothesis and facts, and trying to dismiss probing comments by vague appeals to authority and sounding sciency. It's funny watching him occasionally get owned by someone sensible in the comments on insta. I now only go near his insta if I want to wind myself up
it does suggest a route for getting stronger finger flexors with lower overall injury risk, perhaps by mixing up FB and overcoming isometrics during a training block.
There's probably some truth to the speed/power component being more important than we have previously realised ...
I think that he is often using the word ‘recruitment’ in the sense of the flexors working rather than as shorthand for fast recruitment as most of us use it
Instinctively I wonder if it depends on who you are - someone who's at risk of injury because of getting strong fast (these people might want to keep hanging more) or someone at risk of injury because of overload/overuse niggles (like you or me, who might want to play around with the fixed-arm overcoming isometrics a bit more). Thoughts?
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