Was that supposed to come with a link? Did he address any of the points discussed here (e.g., passive tension actually being a useful thing in climbing; being above-BW only being a real issue for those that can deadlhang a small edge 1-armed; strength training being about more than recruitment)?I've done some of these out of interest over the past few months. My thoughts are still broadly as they were - this is an interesting tool to have in the box but is unlikely to be the best thing since sliced bread. Mostly useful if you want a session that is fast to warm up for (seems much faster than normal max hangs to warm up for this) and is not too tiring - e.g. a quick first session before work on a double session day (seems perfect or this), or as part of a warm up at the crag.
Was that supposed to come with a link? Did he address any of the points discussed here (e.g., passive tension actually being a useful thing in climbing; being above-BW only being a real issue for those that can deadlhang a small edge 1-armed; strength training being about more than recruitment)?
Having said all this, I haven't done any hanging* from any fingerboard for 6 months and feel to have gone from finger strength being a significant weakness (with poor scores to back it up), to now subjectively feeling like finger strength isn't a concern, but having no idea what my actual hang scores look like. *Instead have been doing the weird active tension stuff Tyler Nelson preaches and I rate it highly.
I'm not surprised at all that your day-to-day variability on active pulls (lets go with this as the name) is high.
interestingly my time needed to warm up for every climbing session drastically reduced, whether i'm doing the active pulls or not on that day. I've always been very slow to warm up, but now i'm at almost Will Bosi levels of readiness, able to pull hard almost straight away!
On form, I don't fully isolate my fingers with equipment, but I try to just pull with the fingers. I did try a setup with my elbow on a table but didn't get on with it. For the benefit of others, what I do is attach a large full pad edge (26mm) to a Tindeq anchored to the floor, so that I can hold the edge at a comfortable height with my legs and elbows locked out. I then pull to peak force just by contracting my fingers and not by leaning or pulling with my body. I say peak force, but what I actually do is pull to 95% of my measured peak force and do this for around 5 reps (at this point i'll usually have dropped under 95%). That would be one set and is what I did for the first few months seeing great progress, a corresponding increase in performance on the wall, and interestingly my time needed to warm up for every climbing session drastically reduced, whether i'm doing the active pulls or not on that day. I've always been very slow to warm up, but now i'm at almost Will Bosi levels of readiness, able to pull hard almost straight away!
For the last few months, I've introduced concepts from French contrast training, which I first read about from a rugby coach. Before performing (in our case this would be climbing on rock or even a board session), the idea is to do a strength exercise followed by a power exercise for a few sets, a few hours before performing. What I do on this session is pull to a subjective 90% of peak force for 3 reps without looking at the Tindeq reading until afterwards, then after 1 minute rest, I do 5 speed pulls using the same edge and the RFD program on the Tindeq, trying to get the best scores I can. This is 1 set. On set 2, magic happens, the two exercises potentiate each other, my 90% is now higher and the speed pulls are higher. I get stronger and faster each set, and when I'm just starting to plateau I end the session. The first time I did this I hit a new PB whilst subjectively thinking I was at 90% of peak force! A few hours later I had an amazing session on rock.As of last week, I added some hangs in again for the first time this year, more for curiosity than anything. I'm doing assisted 5 second 1 arm hangs on the BM2K middle edge and i'm really pleased to see that I'm a lot better at it than I ever was.
When you try to contract to your maximum, are you moving your fingers, like heavy finger rolls? Or keeping eg a half crimp position but putting it under tension. I get the impression you are creating the feeling of a lift, vs putting your fingers under tension for a certain amount of time. Do you then have a lowering feeling like with weights, or do you pull to max (or 95%) then release all tension at once?Thanks!
Re the RFD thing and going for best scores. The various videos online about this have confused me a bit. Are you scoring this on the 28-80 RFD number, or a 250ms time interval number? I literally dg out my Tindeq earlier today and suddenly realised it seems to do more fancy things than it used to do!
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