[andy moles]

Does seem a little odd that he's not improved his diet yet given he's trying to perform at the absolute highest level of the sport.

My partner is a nutritionist, and sometimes remarks on the differences in literature about 'performance' nutrition compared to general long-term health nutrition. I won't butcher an attempt to sum this up in any detail, but as a very rough gist the former seems to be a bit more laissez-faire about additive-laden junk, within the context of lifestyle and when it's consumed etc.

[SA Chris]

He's Scottish, by national standards his diet is good!

[chicane]

 Will & bourdon were on ITV news at ten last night.

[Bradders]

Does seem a little odd that he's not improved his diet yet given he's trying to perform at the absolute highest level of the sport.

My partner is a nutritionist, and sometimes remarks on the differences in literature about 'performance' nutrition compared to general long-term health nutrition. I won't butcher an attempt to sum this up in any detail, but as a very rough gist the former seems to be a bit more laissez-faire about additive-laden junk, within the context of lifestyle and when it's consumed etc.

Yes seen similar, e.g. eating donuts is actually totally fine from a performance perspective if you're then going go and actually use the energy, and may in fact be optimal given such foods tend to be lighter and easier on the stomach than "healthy" foods.

BUT

Is it that odd given that he is performing at the absolute highest level of the sport?

Fair point, just seems like an obvious thing to consider when you're trying to push your limits.

[Fultonius]

While her diet was, perhaps, a but more healthy, Janja also had a refreshingly lassaiz faire attitude to food. Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?

[Will Hunt]

Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?

I'd love to see someone try and convince Dave Brailsford of that.

[edshakey]

Will & bourdon were on ITV news at ten last night.

https://www.itv.com/watch/news/how-3d-printing-helped-one-man-scale-the-hardest-boulder-in-the-world/g0zl3xn

A fairly respectable, and not too cringey, report for non-climbing journalism . First outdoor boulder ascent covered by a British mainstream news outlet?

[sirlockoff]

Nice little film.  And not a deck of cards/dice in sight.   Would have been funny if there was a little 'easter egg' pack of cards, or even better, some furry dice on the rear view mirror  .

maybe not intentional, but there was a crash pad that had 6 dots on it, reminded me a bit dice

[mr chaz]

Will & bourdon were on ITV news at ten last night.

https://www.itv.com/watch/news/how-3d-printing-helped-one-man-scale-the-hardest-boulder-in-the-world/g0zl3xn

A fairly respectable, and not too cringey, report for non-climbing journalism . First outdoor boulder ascent covered by a British mainstream news outlet?

Excellent! On the subject of replicas - the climbing community agreed unless Will climbed the boulder on his first try he hadn't done anything wrong 

[dave k]

Will & bourdon were on ITV news at ten last night.

https://www.itv.com/watch/news/how-3d-printing-helped-one-man-scale-the-hardest-boulder-in-the-world/g0zl3xn

A fairly respectable, and not too cringey, report for non-climbing journalism . First outdoor boulder ascent covered by a British mainstream news outlet?

Excellent! On the subject of replicas - the climbing community agreed unless Will climbed the boulder on his first try he hadn't done anything wrong 

Weird how they didn't show the replica set at 40 degrees at Lattice!

[Dingdong]

While her diet was, perhaps, a but more healthy, Janja also had a refreshingly lassaiz faire attitude to food. Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?

Doesn’t Ondra also eat like that? Also heard he’s not averse to a good drinking sesh either!

[Bradders]

While her diet was, perhaps, a but more healthy, Janja also had a refreshingly lassaiz faire attitude to food. Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?

Doesn’t Ondra also eat like that? Also heard he’s not averse to a good drinking sesh either!

I don't think so. The only bit of info I remember about his diet implied he was mostly vegetarian, or at least pescatarian, and otherwise sounded very healthy indeed. Which, you know, for the best climber in the world shouldn't be a surprise?

[cheque]

If you train or climb as often and as hard as the likes of yer Bosis and yer Garnbrets then not only can you eat the most calorific diet going, you need to.

I listened to the latter on Jam Crack and she said she ate whatever she liked and I thought “what the fuck am I playing at eating sensibly when she isn’t?” What I failed to factor in was that I’m a weekend warrior in my 40s with a full time desk job and I soon found myself leaving for what could be described as the trip of a lifetime as heavy as I’d ever been  . On said three week trip though I ate American portions supplemented with high fructose corn syrup-based filth every day just to keep going and still came back lighter than when I left. Also spent the best part of £2500 on dental work the following winter.

[User deactivated.]

While her diet was, perhaps, a but more healthy, Janja also had a refreshingly lassaiz faire attitude to food. Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?

Doesn’t Ondra also eat like that? Also heard he’s not averse to a good drinking sesh either!

I don't think so. The only bit of info I remember about his diet implied he was mostly vegetarian, or at least pescatarian, and otherwise sounded very healthy indeed. Which, you know, for the best climber in the world shouldn't be a surprise?

I don't doubt that he is, but in terms of pure physicality (strength and power at least), Bosi appears to be ahead. However, if the climbers at the top are meeting their energy requirements, I suspect that even going from a supposed poor diet to a good one, it wouldn't make a significant difference to performance in the short term. Longevity may be different....

And I say this as a full on diet nerd who has counted every calorie for about 15 years!

[Mike Highbury]

Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?

I'd love to see someone try and convince Dave Brailsford of that.

Well, cycling nutrition must have changed a great deal since DB stood down.

[sherlock]

He's Scottish, by national standards his diet is good!

This^

[Fiend]

Very nice film. When he did it the fingerswap seemed like sleight-of-finger it was so smooth.

I think Will has taken the crown (from Adam) for "Most endearing top climber in the world" 

[andy moles]

I think Will has taken the crown (from Adam) for "Most endearing top climber in the world" 

He could go the final mile for me by swapping some American lexicon (super bad, real instead of really, for sure in the middle of sentences) for more of his home vernacular. I mean he can't be expected to talk like a character in Trainspotting (ah cannae hold this fuckin grip man, passus the fan ya cunt), but a few incomprehensible central beltish outbursts to confuse the international audience would be the cherry on top

[Duma]

ah cannae hold this fuckin grip man, passus the fan ya cunt

LOOOOOL

[Fiend]

Definitely. Pings off a small foothold "och yah wee bawbag!" with a big beardy grin.

[SA Chris]

He's posh Edinburgh though isn't he, nae from Leith (although Leith is nae whit it wis in the Trainspottin' era). 

[Hoseyb]

Very nice film. When he did it the fingerswap seemed like sleight-of-finger it was so smooth.

I think Will has taken the crown (from Adam) for "Most endearing top climber in the world" 

My first thought on watching the film was nice music.

My second was " I bet no-one has climbed that crack "

I'm obviously an outlier.

Cool film 

[thunderbeest]

But what would the E grade be if he put a piece of protection in there and had a rope? Not to mention the ground fall potential.

[Johnny Brown]

my mind wandered to a thread on here years ago in which JB and Stu L mentioned how a crag diet of (iirc) haribos and coke never did them any harm.

Coke must have been Maccy-Stu. But I'm still here, still struggling to see much difference between haribo at the crag and sachet goop race nutrition for runners/ cyclists. Except haribo tastes better and doesn't have annoying pseudo-science on the packaging.

[SA Chris]

Wine Gums FTW. Perfect size, texture and sweetness to be consumed by the handful on the move.