UKBouldering.com

Ondrawad (Read 1004151 times)

thunderbeest

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 68
  • Karma: +0/-0
#2475 Re: Ondrawad
April 09, 2024, 11:10:51 am
Is that a Genius on his right foot? Been a while since people have been climbing the no edge shoes. It always surprises me that Sportiva has 35 different shoes but you need to search long to see a pro not use Skwama or Solution (maybe Theory indoors)

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2772
  • Karma: +176/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#2476 Re: Ondrawad
April 09, 2024, 11:39:51 am

Is that a Genius on his right foot?


Low volume Katana lace I think?

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3048
  • Karma: +354/-2
#2477 Re: Ondrawad
April 09, 2024, 11:49:50 am
I thought that was great. Ondra is such good value. As I non-Czech speaker I feel I'm missing out on the full range of expletives when he slips off after the crux!

He started with Geniuses, then tried Solutions, and finally a Solution on his left and a (women's) Katana lace-up on his right. 

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2715
  • Karma: +119/-0
#2478 Re: Ondrawad
April 09, 2024, 02:19:43 pm
As I non-Czech speaker I feel I'm missing out on the full range of expletives when he slips off after the crux!

Yeah, I thought the English subtitles seemed to be understating it a bit. I tried switching youtube to Czech but they still seemed to be somewhat incomplete

Was generally impressed not only by the difficulty and the runout, but also by the style - that sort of vertical ultra precision on microholds not the most fashionable thing these days

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4339
  • Karma: +337/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#2479 Re: Ondrawad
April 09, 2024, 02:43:02 pm
I watched half, and the main thing I learned is that when Ondra climbs in the Verdon he pulls on the goutte d'eau with his thumbs unless the moves are really hard. That is just too bisarre not to try the next time!

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • junky
  • Posts: 769
  • Karma: +41/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#2480 Re: Ondrawad
April 09, 2024, 02:45:35 pm
I though that too! I'm off there in May - will report back if it works for mere mortals  :-\

lukeyboy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 593
  • Karma: +28/-1
#2481 Re: Ondrawad
August 20, 2024, 08:50:57 am
No 'news', but I saw a Gripped article earlier which included the stat that Ondra has now climbed 212 routes at 9a and above. It's just jaw-dropping, one of those things that really sets him apart from the rest of the field.

Quote from: Gripped
Narcissus was Ondra’s 212th route 5.14d (9a) and above. According to his 8a.nu page, he’s sent a mind-boggling 134 5.14d’s (with four onsights and two flashes), 50 5.15a’s (with one flash), 24 5.15b’s, four 5.15c’s, and one 5.15d. How’s that for a pyramid?

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5694
  • Karma: +362/-5
#2482 Re: Ondrawad
August 20, 2024, 09:01:29 am

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13657
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
#2483 Re: Ondrawad
August 20, 2024, 09:43:06 am
That really is quite a sensible grade pyramid. I reckon he could do quite well with that steady approach.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4339
  • Karma: +337/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#2484 Re: Ondrawad
August 20, 2024, 12:01:17 pm
That really is quite a sensible grade pyramid. I reckon he could do quite well with that steady approach.

Not so much a pyramid as a tectonic plate.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal