[remus]

Young spanish wad Ainhize Belar has made the first female ascent of Iñi Ameriketan 9a/+ in the Blatzola cave in Spain. Opinion on whether it's worth the + is split, but if it settles at the higher grade it would make her one of only 11 women to have climbed 9a+ or harder. One to watch.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_qpIJEtQBo/?img_index=1

[duncan]

Desnivel are going with 9a+ following the view of two more recent ascentionist including Ondra. She would be the first Spanish woman to climb 9a+.

Seems appropriate that she is a Basque and on such a historic route, likely the first 9a+ in Spain depending on your view of Orujo.

It is amazing to think Josune Bereziartu climbed 9a/+ in 2005.

[jwi]

Very good article in Desnivel, by the way. Not just a rewrite of an instagram post. How on earth can Desnivel afford actual journalism?

[remus]

Katie Lamb has climbed Equanimity 8C in Tahoe, making her the first woman to climb more than one 8C.

[Duma]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_veDK8tfDo/?igsh=NXowcTdqdmQwcjht

[Steve R]

Rachel Pearce repeated Olwen E9 6c today (saw it on ukc logs)
Significant in itself I'm sure but also worth a look at her logbook for the past couple of months or so - relentless waddage!

[lukeyboy]

Katie Lamb has climbed Equanimity 8C in Tahoe, making her the first woman to climb more than one 8C.

I'm not familiar with the problem but looks very unusual for 8C, being basically vert and slopey sidepulls / underclings. Very cool, and great work Katie!

[teestub]

Rachel Pearce repeated Olwen E9 6c today (saw it on ukc logs)

Is this one essentially designer danger, or is there some rules about where the bolts have been placed on this wall? Must be odd clipping some bolts then having to place RPs!

[andy moles]

Rachel Pearce repeated Olwen E9 6c today (saw it on ukc logs)

Is this one essentially designer danger, or is there some rules about where the bolts have been placed on this wall? Must be odd clipping some bolts then having to place RPs!

I could be wrong, but I think it's more or less where there were originally pegs at the start, and then it joins a pretty much fully bolted route at the end, but there are no bolts on the independent section of climbing.

[teestub]

Thanks Andy

[remus]

Katie Lamb has climbed Equanimity 8C in Tahoe, making her the first woman to climb more than one 8C.

I'm not familiar with the problem but looks very unusual for 8C, being basically vert and slopey sidepulls / underclings. Very cool, and great work Katie!

Indeed, Carlo Traversi described it as "Heinous power tech boulder with the worst footholds imaginable." and Jimmy Webb as "Potentially a contender for the hardest technical boulder in the world?" Sounds pretty hardcore to me.

[Fiend]

That does sound cool!

[remus]

Nathan Philips has climbed Beautiful Mind at badger cove. Second ascent, unless Aidan or someone else snuck in for the second asccent.

[Duma]

Vid on his insta:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_-_DwsNHOq/?igsh=enpieDA0N2gzODky

[remus]

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has made the fourth ascent of Move 9b+ in Flatanger https://www.instagram.com/p/DAF713ytR-i/

[remus]

Anna Wild did Bat Route 8c at Malham yesterday according to the UKC logbooks.

[PeteHukb]

She rested her way up it, as per usual. Spent about 25mins just resting! Impressive.

[Wellsy]

She rested her way up it, as per usual. Spent about 25mins just resting! Impressive.

If you think that's impressive you should see me mate, I can spend hours doing fuck all, no problem

[remus]

Laura Rogora has climbed Goldrake 9a+ in Italy (though looks like it's borderline 9a based on other people's opinions). A remarkably quick ascent as she did it on her first try of the second session, in a total of 6 attempts.

[jwi]

Seb and Alain did a group solo of Total Tower in La Defense the other day

https://www.instagram.com/p/DAdz9Fit3P_/

[remus]

Barrows has placed a load of controversial bolts onsighted an 8b+ called Los Robavias in Valdegobia, Spain.

[remus]

Looks like yesterday was a good day for climbing things first go. Molly TS flashed Le Mari de la Baleine 8a+ and onsighted Les épinards aux violettes 8a+ at Saint Leger.

[Bradders]

Josh Ibbo has done Change P1. Seems he's had a pretty incredible trip.