[Coops_13]

M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +70lb HC *3sets. Kilter board 45 degrees. 1 V3, 2 V4, 7 V5, 3 V6.

T: G1. Weighted pull-ups 75lb X3 *3sets. Kilter board 20 degrees. 1 V2, 2 V3, 9 V4. 40 degrees 1 V3

W: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. G1 Legs. Squats 185lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 75lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X5 *3sets. Shoulder press 40lb X5 *3sets. Incline chest press 40lb X6 *3sets.

T: G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +55lb HC not feeling it. Two arm OH 20mm +20lb - first time adding weight OH! Kilter board 45 degrees. 1 V3, 2 V4, 5 V5, 5 V6. 13 boulders total.

S: Dark Waters Cave, Clear Creek Canyon. Five inches overnight left few dry options. Went to the DW cave, permadry Gneiss V6 - V14. Got on Light Waters V6 which I did fairly quickly. Nice crimping up a 40 degree wall. Spent the rest of the session sampling some moves of a few V10-11 boulders, definitely some future projects. Watched a mate cruise up Dark Waters V12 which was sick to see


S: G1. Legs. Squats 185lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 75lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X5 *3sets. Shoulder press 40lb X5 *3sets. Incline chest press 40lb X6 *3sets. Tried bench press for first time in c. 6 months. Feeling weak and wrist (hand) wobbly but managed 5 reps at 135lb.

[Duma]

M - 2m plank. Eve bouldering @ TCA, good session trying hard on blues upstairs. Did four, and the moves on a few more, plus got one from the comp wall that got away last week.
T - 12 hr shift
W - 12 hr shift
T - 12 hr shift
F - 8 hr shift, then childcare.
S - did the Bloc comp while daughter trampolining. 25 problems, not many easy, but not many desperate either. Very modern style setting (unsurprisingly, I believe Percy B was down to set), that also included several jams, and even some chicken wings. Flashed 22, should have flashed another but dropped the last move due to trying to static it, then was too tired on subsequent goes. Got high on one other, and made no real progress on the last. Ran out of time as had to meet daughter, but probably only cost me one point at most.
S - 2m plank. childcare. Eve ancap @ BW on 20mm edge. 7:3 x 6 x 6 sets, 3 min between sets.

70.5kg

[Wellsy]

Monday - think it was a day of pressing and light circuits, and then core at home. Fucking hate doing core.

Tuesday - rest

Wednesday - big splatboard session and another pressing session. Really good and productive with hard moves not in my style and progress in some old moves and projects

Thurs - rest

Friday - went out to Burbage before work and did Twin Cracks Arete 6C+, took me about 5 goes including the warmup. Pretty chuffed with that. In the evening went and did weighted pullups at 18kgs, lockoffs at 35kgs and hangboarding at 35kgs (8x 10 seconds, 20mm edge)

Saturday - rest

Sunday - Weighted pullups and lockoffs.
Fingerboard max testing. Got to 52.5kgs added for 5 seconds on the 20mm edge, bang on 170% BW which is a personal best! Then tried the new Red Circuit, managed one, did some other bits and pieces.

Good week, seeing definite improvement from training in my PB, and managed a 6C+ on grit very quickly. Given that my max grade on grit is 7A so far, that feels like a shift forward. Feel very strong.

[Fultonius]

Thanks Coops, nice one getting out despite the snow.

I'd done half of my Critical Force testing on Sunday, and then got a bit caught up in the evenings so:

Mon: Nowt
Tuesd: Nowt
Weds: 70% & 80% repeaters to failure.
Thursday: TCA aerocap/base endurance session. 7 x 6b (given 6c but no way...) 35 moves each rep, 1.5min on:2.5min off. Mild pump but completed all sets until I swapped for a slightly harder circuit. 
Friday: 3 hours on the MTBs at Glentress, 700m climbing. Felt pretty hard work on the upper body and cardio.
Sat: Not much, DIY (finally got the fire door fitted and building warrant completion cert sent in.
Sun: Ratho session. Felt a bit tired after having folks round for dinner and staying up a bit late, but felt fitter than expected given:

• Relative lack of route climbing/circuits recently
• Low Critical Force:Max strength score on recent tests

7 x 7a onsights, 1 x 7b fail (burly/and couldn't get much recovery on the rests) and some autobelay laps on 6b/6b+ for Aerocap. More of a "fun climbing session" than training, but tagged on some at the end.

Going to shift focus gradually off anaerobic base to aerobic base, keep up the strength stuff. Feel like I'm recovering well this week.

[Fultonius]

Monday - think it was a day of pressing and light circuits, and then core at home. Fucking hate doing core.

Tuesday - rest

Wednesday - big splatboard session and another pressing session. Really good and productive with hard moves not in my style and progress in some old moves and projects

Thurs - rest

Friday - went out to Burbage before work and did Twin Cracks Arete 6C+, took me about 5 goes including the warmup. Pretty chuffed with that. In the evening went and did weighted pullups at 18kgs, lockoffs at 35kgs and hangboarding at 35kgs (8x 10 seconds, 20mm edge)

Saturday - rest

Sunday - Weighted pullups and lockoffs.
Fingerboard max testing. Got to 52.5kgs added for 5 seconds on the 20mm edge, bang on 170% BW which is a personal best! Then tried the new Red Circuit, managed one, did some other bits and pieces.

Good week, seeing definite improvement from training in my PB, and managed a 6C+ on grit very quickly. Given that my max grade on grit is 7A so far, that feels like a shift forward. Feel very strong.

  Jesus fucking Christ you're waay too strong. Wish I had those numbers!

[Wellsy]

I wish I had your technique so it goes both ways :D

[Fultonius]

I wish I had your technique so it goes both ways :D

You've not seen me climb 

[duncan]

M - Shoulder conditioning. 12km walk.
T - Drove down to Weston via a cold and damp Sand Point. First time i’d been here since scrambling around as a teenager in the mid-70s. How long is the statute of limitations for retro-claims?! Soloed a bunch of moderate stuff including an alleged VS 4c and a few of the easiest boulders. Didn’t try The Prow or any of its variations as they were gopping but they look worth coming back for.
W - Shoulder conditioning. 10km walk, which included wandering past Uphill Quarry. Bumped into Taunton Sam who was shunting Inhuman, the extension to Proper Job, and offered to belay him. Weird how it’s acceptable to trust a complete stranger with your life in climbing but he was keen to get on the lead, partnerless, and I was an upgrade on random dog-walkers. Gratifyingly he dispatched it efficiently. Looks like a worthwhile addition and probably a far more appropriate 7b+ for me than Road Rage (and a much softer one I suspect, I need to check with Gordon Jenkin on what he’ll be giving it in the upcoming guide before getting too excited). Also psyched for the trad.: Crematorium looks ace, I’m trying to rationalise it as an Etxauri 6b+ with spaced bolts on the basis of not much.
T - Brean with Weston Sue. Chilly but sunny: really lovely. One other team who did one route and bailed saying it waS too cold. It was perfect! Warmed up on Coral Sea with the new left hand finish. Sketched up Bikini Atoll, feeling like an onsight even though I’d done it 7 years ago. Then we tried a new line between Clashing Socks and Kamikaze. Sue had heard it was “mid-6s”. It isn’t. It is still in the process of stabilising but the climbing was good and, when it cleans up, will be a worthwhile addition. Worked all the moves with some effort. Went for the redpoint, was nearly off twice, finally fell slapping for a good hold at the end of the hard climbing but couldn’t quite stick it and took the lob having opted to go for it rather than clip. Asked Gordon about it later and he said the strong first ascensionist wanted to give it 6c and they had settled on 6c+. It’s possible some holds have broken. I suggested a reconsideration. Very slowly improving my route working efficiency and properly engaged try-hard so a satisfying failure.
F - Battered. 10km walk.
S - Shoulder conditioning.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Westway autobelay: 9 mins. continuous climbing getting moderately pumped going up and de-pumping going back down on easier ground x 5.

A good week. Half term next week so may not be able to get away. Weather looks iffy so hopefully not missing much.

[shark]

11.7-11 average 163.6lbs up 1.2lbs

M. AM. Home warmup. Tor. Bit of winter sunshine at least to begin with. Joined by Buster and Will. Buster did Bens without as a warmup but learnt nothing useful watching him. I was better on the throw move this time but each time got the crimp as a drag three times and failed to close it. Did the the other hard moves ok. Tried the starting section twice but failed on it. At least could THFML at the end this time doing it 5x with short rests failing on the 6th attempt. Went to Rubicon for some token traversing but it was waterlogged.

T. AM Session with Yoga Dan to sort out some mobility exercises

W. Showed our new super keen and very tall German lodger around the Plantation who had a great time.

T. Home warmup. Tor. Really struggled doing hard moves in isolation. Eventually managed cross through and to do throw and move off it this time but couldn’t do kick move in isolation. Felt glum and started having thoughts about sacking it off entirely. Then managed start to failing on throw twice straight off which cheered me up. Third attempt fluffed getting pinch though it was getting dark. Couple of goes on THFML but lost the core to do it

F. PM Took Morritz to Tor with the aim of having a stamina workout on Tin Of but it was seepy and also occupied. Had a quick play on the lower moves of Toadside which predictably established I was still trashed from yesterday. Left Morritz with Nick S and took dog for a long walk

S

S PM New mobility routine then systems board Felt good on benchmarks First set of 20/10s timed 2 secs per move got to move 104. Think I could have done while set if hadn’t lost my feet. 5mins rest 2nd set at normal speed

Weight up and down a lot. Weighing heavy but judging by midriff don’t think I’ve much fat to lose. Some progress on Bens but still well short of my best. Weather permitting might get a day in at Kyloe on Tuesday. Booked a chalet near Briancon for 12-22 June for family holiday. If anyone likely to be around there then let me know

[Aussiegav]

A deload week to complete a 6 week block.

Monday - rest

Tuesday

Went to Awesome Walls after work, although it was on 2 weeks since I’d been, it felt like ages since I tied in.

Routes climbed 5a, 5c, 6b, 6b+, 6b, 6a, 6a.
All the 6bs I dropped the Onsight on a simple error. The first one I should of done a longer or harder route than 5c to get the arms a bit pumped and ready. I only read about that a few days ago. Take heed of what you read 😖

Overall it was a really good session.

Wednesday
30min  ride on the peloton


Thursday
Evening max hang assessment in preparation for 6 week block of 10s max hangs.
Warm Up
Crimp Curl repeaters with 12.7kg
20s density hang with 20kg assist
30s hang with 20kg assist

10s Max hang Assessment
Base weight with dipping belt =87.4kg
Max hang was 87.4kg + 17.7kg = 106kg

Friday - Rest

Saturday-rest

Sunday
Morning at the School, a later start, 930ish.
Splat Board traverses
Feet on Campus Pulls 1-5 match x6
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2
Feet on Campus 2-4-6.5 x2
4 Warm up problems. Felt good in the warm up

15min Send Session
I didn’t do the the first problem in the 15mins. Second problem I stopped trying after 10 mins then rested and had another go at the first problem and did it. Didn’t do the 3rd &4th problems.
Finished the session came home & did a 45min Fartlek ride on the Peloton.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: New (to me) outdoor 7a somewhere

Thurs: LSD after work, got there about 7.30pm and it was absolutely rammed! Good for the guys that run it though I guess, especially after opening the place in the midst of the pandemic. Thinned out a bit after a while so managed to knock off a decent circuit of V3-V5 stuff, but didn't close my account on one that's been evading me.

Sun: Took kids to Big Depot daughter tore it up, did 7 routes on top-rope, all the kid's problems on the bouldering and a couple of the adult easy whites. Hoping this is the shape of things to come. Good belaying warmup for me, then got a few problems done, inc a flash of a purple (V5-V7) which I was pretty happy with.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M. Hip mobility routine. Not done this in ages and it shows.
T.
W.
T.
F.
S. 1.5 hours board climbing in the shed, early morning session before heading out on family duties for the day. 6th session on it so far and seeing rapid improvement.
S. Visited my brother and niece, had a play on his home board for about 45 mins, good fun!

[James Malloch]

Booked a chalet near Briancon for 12-22 June for family holiday. If anyone likely to be around there then let me know

Not certain on our plans yet, but hoping to visit a friend around there on our trip around that time. Depends if we head back the the U.K. for a wedding around then though.

Will try to remember closer to the time and get in touch.


M. Acro yoga

T. Warm up, 80% max hangs 6x10s on 20mm edge. Board session- felt strong. 1 on 1 off for 20 mins.

W.

T. Same as Tuesday

F. Dinner in leeds

S. Kilnsey - trying pillar problem 7B+. Didn’t think I’d get very far as it was the first time I’d been back since injuring my finger and was being very cautious. Found a way to get the main hold more on my front 2 which made me commit. Made it to the (wet) 2 finger LH pocket. Didn’t work out what to do from this and didn’t commit to moving my RH due to the dampness. Would be keen for another go when it’s dry.
Had to dry out and hoover the pads the next day. Not the nicest conditions!

S. Chilled day

[Yossarian]

M - 8km walk. Wall (2nd day on, after random Sunday session the previous week). Felt good on the board, more floaty and able to static stuff that I have for a while. Then tried some harder projects on the main wall - good to start, but starting to feel quite fatigued and maybe should've stopped sooner. Hard when things are going well though. Also was trying problem involving pulling very hard with high LF heel, and did something painful to that hamstring.
T - Rest
W - 8km walk. Assisted one-arms, wide weighted pulls, locks, hammer / biceps curls, mini stretch. Really good, although this session does seem to exacerbate fatigue / tenderness feeling in my forearms which sometimes lingers for longer than I wish it would. I think this might be a volume issue, and maybe I should alternate 1 arm assist / locks rather than stacking them in every session.
T / F - Rest (had planned wall on T but felt too tired)
S - Wall. Felt extremely strong. Very floaty on the board. Did crux of one of my oldest projects static (I think 3x in a row). Finished another quite sustained board-like prow problem downstairs and generally quite enjoyed myself. Definitely felt like a breakthrough of some sort.
S - Rest

Feeling like things are going well, though not for the reasons I'd envisaged when planning the first bit of this year. Weight loss has tailed off because I've been eating quite a lot to try to recover from what feels like hard training. Also not doing as much running / walking as I'd planned. But also climbing now feels more like it did when I was around 80kg, even though I am 98-100kg. Problem is that arms seem to take a long time to recover (eg no press / antagonist training this week because I knew that even picking up a kettlebell on Wed was likely to exacerbate forearm tenderness). I think this is the problem with trying to be a strong heavy and old climber.

I think I need to get outside asap - hopefully routes later this week and some boulders before long to recalibrate, and maybe get a mental boost from ticking some stuff. And then be more ruthless in planning sessions and limiting volume. That would be a lot easier if I could get to the wall more often.

[Bradders]

M - fingerboard. Started with flared pinch block pick ups. Then one arm hangs, half crimp Lattice edge. 6x each side 5s straight arm -20kg, and 6x each side 5s 90' lock -17kg, 2 min rests. Followed by weighted pull ups 4x 5 +16kg, superset with hamstring bridge holds. 

Tu - City Bloc in the afternoon. The Precision Team were in at the same time, so I was treated to a bit of a power endurance masterclass from Jo Neame on the Kilter Board. Impressive stuff. I did a bit in the main wall, then made up a couple of randoms on the splatter board, before trying some of the grit replicas on the Kilter (all of which are clearly much harder than the real things!). Did 4 of them anyway. Then moved onto some low 7s. Did 2 7As and a 7A+. Tried and failed on 3 7Bs. Most of the session at 35' although some at 30 and 40. After this did conditioning, weighted pull ups 4x4 +21kg superset with Arnold Press, then rings Ts and wide press ups. Finished with foot on campus ladders, 10x 1 min on 1 min off. Started on the medium rungs but after set 6 moved to the big slopes and intermediate things to avoid pumping out.

W - rest

Th - a day of frustration. Out later than planned due to work running over and having to do other life admin stuff. On the way down to Lobwell to do Source of Secrets when the motorway traffic ground to a halt and stayed that way for 45 mins. Managed to get off and turned around, deciding to go to Smeaton as closer. More traffic on the way meant I was in a rage by the time I made it there. This was made worse by finding Little Pex wall ruined by apparently religious rock carvers. Started climbing on Senator Buttress just warming up. Took ages to repeat Utopia. Started on Elysium and couldn't for the life of me do the first tricky move. Everyone else just locks it to a good hold but I couldn't do it, despite having tried it 18 months ago. Eventually worked out what to do and had a couple of good goes. Best go was last one, got properly stood up into the left undercut but bicep hurt so dropped. Bit of a write off really.

F - rest

Sa - City Bloc, on the Kilter Board with Stubs and Foley. Like old times. Most of the session at 50'. Did a couple of 6Cs, 3 7As, then managed a 7B 3rd go. Few attempts on other 7Bs but shut down by one or two moves. Went to 60' and did a long 7A then failed on another. Few more 7As and 6Cs at 40' to finish. Loving the Kilter Board atm, complete contrast to my own board which I reckon is good.

Su - big mixed session. Started with pick up fingerboarding; pinch grip, pinky and index mono and middle 2 in half crimp. Same weights as recent weeks. Then did a bit on the board, including a first go repeat of a nice harder medium that I can only really do when going well. Then boulder triples, failing 2nd & 3rd reps on 3/6 sets. Bit of conditioning; single arm rows upping the weight to 30kg, and superset with board Copenhagen planks. Finished with aerocap, 5 mins on, 3 mins off, and some rotator cuff work.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Not bad but skin was a problem.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - Lattice edge 85%, loaded carries.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - wrecked from Saturday's log splitting. High pulls, cleans.

[yetix]

M rest
T FB 5x7s 27.5kg added 18mm edge HC. 45 mins on the Sandhills board, close on a couple of projects
W rest
T FB 1 arm hangs 23mm edge 5x5 RH at bodyweight, 3x-6kg LH 2x-4kg. Briefly tried 3 problems from the woods circuit at the Matchworks, all felt doable aside 1 move on each. May go back and try them again before the reset. Flashed a 7A on the board just to get a feel for the holds and feet. Not sure I like it as much as the 50 at Sandhills.
F Sandhills board, managed to send both moderates from the previous session
S building board
S building board - fucking hell its heavy! But just needs to be stood up now.

Week before I don't recall all I did, but I think I did 1 fb session 2 armed as per Tuesday this week, 1 board session which I don't recall how it went and wasted a little more of my life with another session at the cave.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Rest Club...

M: Rest
T: Routes @ AW - Warmed up on a few F6's then rinsed "project" F7a+ first go (not without a fight mind  )... Did a few more up to F6c+ then called it as was starving! Good session.
W: Rest
T: AW with the kids - Autos up to F6b+ and Moonboard up to 6B+ (first of the grade on the MB...) Both kids led some F5's and flashed F6a...
F: Rest
S: Mamouth boulder sesh @ Last Sundance in Leeds - Met up with a full crew of old dads who don't get together that often (and Fiend)... Great vibe doing all the V4's and V5's and a few of the V6's... Ended up out on't beers in Hebden singing along to an ace pianist playing Lionel an shit... Proper good night out!
S: Felt like shit... Worth it tho 

Rested as much as I climbed but did get a fair bit actually done... Ace to meet up with a full crew to climb with even though it was wet outside... Good times!

[JohnM]

M - Trail run 23.6km +1,011m

T - Trail run 23.65km +1,030m

W - AM: Trail run 23.65km _1,012m. PM: Indoor bouldering up to 7A+. Not too bad but felt a bit clunky. 16 move PE boulder x 3.5 with 5 minutes rests.

T - Rest

F - AM: Trail run 5.65km +145m. PM: Indoor bouldering comp/coloured circuit boulders. Felt really good, light and bouncy. Got close to one of the second hardest circuit colours (probs about 7C) and couple of the third hardest (7b/7b+). Really enjoyable session.

S - Trail run 19.74km +593m

S - Trail run 46km +1,863m.

Just as I was feeling pleased with myself that I could put in 120km of running in the week before and then knock off a marathon distance without too much bother injury struck. I now have region of inflammation and swelling on my Achilles. Probably not a great surprise with the excessive volume but I always hope to get away with it. I may still be in the denial phase but I hope a week or 2 rest with icing etc and I can get it under control. Less is more with my climbing at the moment and the sessions are generally pretty good as my upper body is never too tired. My elbow injury is almost gone so I have managed to replace an upper limb tendonitis with a lower limb one     

 

[Duma]

That is a truly ridiculous amount of running. Good to hear your elbow has improved though.

[Rocksteady]

Have to write up 2 weeks today as although I have been quite good sticking to training I have not been good sticking to documenting. from upthread sounds like everyone is going well!

End-of-year goals:         
Onsight/flash 5 F7as         
Boulder Fb7A+
AIM: 71kg 12% bodyfat   - actual 71.8kg 14.7% bodyfat. I'm hoping my scale is overestimating my fat. Weight is coming along nicely though.      
         
February goals:         
Ancap without getting injured.

Week commencing 31st Jan:

Mon: Rest

Tue: Max hangs test for benchmarking. Got to bodyweight + 26kg for 5 secs which was 98.2kg. This is 1kg heavier than the last time I tested last year. Two more positives: one I have only been doing repeaters, no max hangs, so it's encouraging to have same max strength plus more endurance. Also I'm 1 kg lighter than last time I tested so relative strength is higher 135.5% bodyweight vs last test 132%. Decent gainz!

Wed: Rode new bike around to test it out

Thu: Aerocap climbing, triple laps. Got the intensity about right this time. Hardest was 2.5 laps on 6b+. Feeling much better ability to recover between efforts, so even after this and getting pumped was able to do 3 more easier climbs.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Swimming

Sun: Boulder triples - ancap training. This went well and I finished all sets. Some circuit boulders in V3-4 and V4-5 circuits then some invented ones on the board. Suspect hardest really about V3. Can go a bit harder than this. Also did 3 x density hangs.

Week commencing 7th Feb:
Mon: Rest

Tue: Didn't have time to work out

Wed: Repeaters 6:4 * 5 reps, 6 sets. Completed this at bodyweight which I was pleased with as would have been miles off in the past. Don't know whether to go heavier now or try to reduce rest/increase duration to get to 7:3s.

Thu: Casual routes session at incredibly busy Westway. Made a bad mistake of trying a fingery 6c+ without being properly warmed up. Did it easily which was good - except had tweaks on both mid finger DIP knuckles where I get inflammation and pain. RH particularly sore on back of knuckle and has limited range of motion when compressing to palm. Amateur mistake carried away by enthusiasm. Didn't affect climbing too much though, afterwards got 7a on the comp wall to the top clip before running out of steam. 6 weeks ago I got to the 4th clip then dogged up it struggling clip to clip so the training is working. I suspect I would be able to get this next go.

Fri: Rest
Sat: Rest

Sun: Ancap boulder triples at Arch Acton. This went quite well again despite being a bit short on time. Powered out a bit on last set. Did a finisher set of 3*7 pull ups with 1 min rest in between. First two sets were super easy then 3rd was super hard on last two reps. Should be able to build on this, haven't done pull ups in ages. I enjoy this boulder triples workout, but think I need to up the intensity a bit.

[SA Chris]

M-S intermittent pull ups and press ups through the day.

M - 10 km run
T - board session. still struggling TBH, how did i used to do some of these fucking problems. Need another lockdown
W - hill reps while daughter at swimming 6km.
T - lunchtime walk to have a look at some new developments - 3 km.
F - not much
S - a few new probs, but nothing much new, mostly repeating probs.
S - 16.7 km coastal trail run, great views but minging run, mostly hummocky path or edge of ploughed field, fell on my arse in mud once.

Finally just ahead of my required daily distance to get 1000km running in this year.

[Fultonius]

Wed: Repeaters 6:4 * 5 reps, 6 sets. Completed this at bodyweight which I was pleased with as would have been miles off in the past. Don't know whether to go heavier now or try to reduce rest/increase duration to get to 7:3s.

I'm sure others will have better advice, but from my limited knowledge I'd go for 7:3 rather than upping the load - more time under tension.

[abarro81]

Depends on what you're trying to train, surely

[spidermonkey09]

I've always just done repeaters at 7:5 because I generally like to chalk up, especially on that bottom outside edge on the 2000, and 3 secs doesn't allow that. If I'm trying to do a set on the slopers I generally need to chalk up every 2 reps. Any downside to this? I did Anderson hangs for months like this and got very good results, so would have thought any effect is marginal.

If barrows gives it the all clear you could give that a go Rocksteady!

[abarro81]

I don't think there's anything special about 7:3, it's just easy because it makes a block of 10s! 7:5, 6:4, 10:5... obviously the more you increase the % time spent resting the more strengthy it becomes... I find longer rest needed on tweaky grips due to time spent carefully resetting fingers

[Rocksteady]

I don't think there's anything special about 7:3, it's just easy because it makes a block of 10s! 7:5, 6:4, 10:5... obviously the more you increase the % time spent resting the more strengthy it becomes... I find longer rest needed on tweaky grips due to time spent carefully resetting fingers

I have always found 7:3 quite tweaky which is why I've always done 5:5 or 6:4. From your descriptions on other threads Alex my finger problems sound quite similar to yours except I have started getting them from about 6c/7a rather than 8c!

I find if I put any torque through my fingers or twist them into holds the joints flare up. So on fingerboard I have to be careful to pull straight down if that makes sense.

I'm trying to train ancap, if there's nothing special about 7:3 timing I'll stick with the longer rests and maybe just up the hang duration and do 7:4 for starters.

[Fultonius]

An Cap can also be trained very effectively on a campus board, laddering up and down to create a
circuit; due to the faster movements than on a climbing wall this will involve more like 15-20 moves.
Training it on a fingerboard is likely to be less effective but it can be done: your ‘circuit’ is now 4
hangs of 7 seconds with 3 second rests between hangs.
This energy system responds best to increasing the difficulty or length of the circuit (still roughly
within the given boundaries) in order to increase intensity between sessions rather than reducing
the rest times used. This is where performing these exercises on a campus board really comes into
its own, since it’s very easy to steadily increase either the number of moves or the difficulty (simply
make 1 movement harder every session or move to smaller rungs).

^^^ why I should do more reading and less typing on subjects I'm not expert in...

[SA Chris]

Apologies if it's teaching elderly relatives about egg inhalation, but I thought it was 7:3 purely because it was reckoned 7 sec was how long it took to hang a hold to the next hand move, with 3 sec the time the hand was unweighted moving to the next hold.

[rginns]

M - Board session - good - minimised the warm up and got straight on to some of the harder problems on the board. Concentrated on trying hard and accurate foot and hand placements. Quick, decisive movements helped. Rocket science eh? 26 - 1hr20
T -
W - board session - climbing new problems - devised 2 new hardish circuit problems. Good sesh, but no new progress on the projects.
Went to the opticians and instead of a new pair of glasses I came out with an emergency referral to the eye hospital for a problem with retina. February keeps getting better...
T - rest
F - Eye hospital most of the afternoon, so no training. Diagnosed with CSCR, Fluid beneath the retina... no treatment but need to go back in 3 months. blurry eyesight for the next 6 hours due to the drops they put in!
S -
S - Run - jumbles loop. Only short but felt good to get outside, even if only running. Evening board session, again concentrating on trying hard - great session, 1hr 30

Didn't have too bad a week training wise, 3 good board sessions but I couldn't get motivated for the fingerboard. The eye problem is a concern especially as there's not much they can do except monitor but hopefully it won't develop. Apparently induced by stress but hey ho, not sure I can do much about that... roll on next week!