mrjonathanr said:
^^that is what i would suggest.
devonshirepiemuncher said:
I thought i was working on power endurance as the rests were so short but i am probably wrong, certainly was brilliant when needing to power through sport cruxes when pumped
Sounds like a very effective way to build a pump Devonshire; I am glad it worked for you. I don't see how it can be anaerobic capacity because the rests are short; they would need to be fairly long, to deal with the lactate produced and reboot the anaerobic system. To me it sounds like you were digging deep into aerobic systems and boosting your capacity to work with lactate levels. Very important, but not anaerobic.
I'm being super lazy here mrJR, but went off to the boulder tonight, thinking about this thread.
My thoughts, and answer to your post here, echoes Pete's post.
I think the
mistake people make - if I can put it that way, is that it's assumed that the energy system you're reliant on at the point of failure, is what you need to train and develop to perform better.
The principle of working your base line aerobic system, is that you can rely on this far more, before having to dip into anaerobic systems.
Thinking about your first post, the words that stood out for me were "when gripped".
I've found that, on good, slightly harder trad routes, having better aerobic capacity allowed me to feel far less stressed/tense, and I could maintain better breathing too. In short, I felt under less pressure.
As an experiment tonight, I started with x 4 single circuits of 16 moves, with quite short rest in between. Working like this, it's surprising how well you can recover between reps without achieving much appreciable training effect on your aerobic system.
After a slightly longer rest, I then did two sets of 2 x 16 moves - double length reps - with slightly longer rest between.
I'm not very fit at the moment, and it shows. However, this anaerobic capacity isn't something that would normally be the deciding factor on harder trad.
Four x single reps to finish.
One of my go to sessions involved traversing at Rubicon (maybe 6b+) between poor rests, recovering enough to do a 7 move problem (~6C) up/down before traversing back to a poor rest. I found it really targeted my capacity for recovery between slightly harder sections.
I also found that it helped me judge how well I was recovering.