Thanks Shark. I’d be interested in seeing the structure to your lock off training.
Out of curiosity how much is 3/4 seconds compared to your max one armed lock-off time? Do you run quite close to maximal or reduce the time substantially?
“you’re not in Catalonia” as one of the locals put it and I don’t see it becoming popular with Climb Your First 7a coaching holidays.
Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky
Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky after a lot of driving and few left heel hooks yesterday.
Fri: Visit 5, arrived just as main wall started losing the sun but actual climbing was done!Was a pleasant surprise too, School's Out, Rotund Rooley then the full onsight experience on Private Prosecution, felt trad like, even more so thanks to the bolt spacing. Would've done more but was too cold and condensing by then.
Quote from: Duma on January 16, 2022, 09:05:36 pmTook it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky My knee twinged as I read that
Quote from: Duma on January 16, 2022, 09:05:36 pm Took it easy as my "cider soak knee/hamstring" was feeling tweaky after a lot of driving and few left heel hooks yesterday. I've never been on Cider Soak but this sounds quite similar to something I've been feeling in my hamstring recently. Only flares up when I really pull on a left heel hook or sit cross legged or similar. What did you diagnose yours as/ do to help it recover?
Good effort clipping bolts in these temps. I’ve been wondering if it’s been possible to get out side.
I hate heel toes Sounds similar to what I have. Ironically I didn't hurt mine climbing, felt something in my knee lifting a box as I was moving house! Mine seems broadly ok on heel hooks for balance or positioning but if I'm really pulling on them I can feel it in my hamstring and down into the back of my knee. I've noticed this mostly inside on the steep roof at the Manc Depot. It seems to have improved a bit recently as I've stopped stretching my hamstrings, which might have given it some breathing space? Anything you do to aid it other than 'don't piss it off' Barrows? I experimented with doing some squats but not convinced they were doing anything without additional weight being added.
Sat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed.
Quote from: Rocksteady on January 18, 2022, 02:23:20 pmSat: Put my mid-upper thoracic back out by doing a stretch designed to improve back mobility. Lesson learned, don't do neck/back exercises when I first get out of bed. Isn't the lesson here "don't do stretching"?
Could not comprehend how Omega works. Any videos / beta?
Feel free to write those grade opinions (and any other info) in my guide, please. Helpful info.
Quote from: Wood FT on January 16, 2022, 06:04:29 pmFeel free to write those grade opinions (and any other info) in my guide, please. Helpful info.Unfortunately the pages are too glossy to write on