[Rocksteady]

Loving these Dad-based goals, personally I have found it nigh-on impossible to keep climbing since birth of my non-sleeping first child nearly 4 years ago. Have just about kept my hand in indoors. Now have an 8 month old non-sleeping 2nd child. But am feeling fairly motivated this year after reading Ned's Beastmaking book.

CLIMBING/FITNESS GOALS:
1. Process - at least 1x week fingerboard session
2. Process - at least 6x outside climbing weekends over the year. This probably horrifies regular climbers. Being London based with aforementioned children and non-climbing wife and with the pandemic I only managed 2 outdoor climbing days in 2021 and one in 2020.
3. Process - at least 1x week outdoor cardio (running/skipping/whatever) during work from home lunchbreak
4. Boulder - 7A+ outside. Lightning Strike or Hot Ride at The Cuttings most likely candidates.
5. Routes - I'm actually going to set an indoor goal because this seems more realistic and achievable. I have loads of outdoor routes I want to do but I can't guarantee I'll be on them when they're in condition and I don't know if I'll get enough outdoor mileage to push my grade. But I'd like to onsight or flash 5 indoor 7as this year.

Plus rehab my dodgy shoulder and neck.

NON-CLIMBING GOALS:
1. Enjoy 2 months of Shared Parental Leave being main carer for sons - use this to be more helpful to wife throughout year
2. Teach my older son to swim
3. Finish writing my second novel

Hope everyone has a happy and productive 2022.

[cheque]

Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown"

Do you think he meant stronger on mass or stronger en masse? There’s quite a difference!

[Bradders]

Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown"

Do you think he meant stronger on mass or stronger en masse? There’s quite a difference!

Pissed me off either way

[Duncan campbell]

What a difference a year makes!

Feeling much better but still been kind of wary about setting any goals. However it’s not like I don’t have any may as well set my stall out.

I definitely feel like I am on an upward trajectory at the moment so my main aim is to continue on the same path of self acceptance, self love and appreciation for what I have. In the past year I also aimed to have more fun and I wish to continue this into 2022 (and beyond).

The above are my main goals and any goals I state below are secondary to these. If trying to achieve one is contradictory to maintaining good mental health then I hope I will drop it.

Climbing

Never sure whether highly specific or vague is the way to go. I’ll try and hit both.

In no particular order...

More E6 attempts from the ground.
Specifically; LOTF, Suicide blonde, Big in America, Pulsebeat, Sixpence, Ghost Train, Grezelda.

Be good to regain my previous overall trad form.

More ~8a sport.

The Groove or Urgent Action would be ace. Zoolook and soft option being others I’m keen for.

Visit some new crags; Yew cogar, trow Gill.

Have a tickle at an 8b? Not too sure which one id try ...

Boulder more 7B+s sneak a 7C out? Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

Life

Finish house ASAP so fun can resume. (But do a good job)

Switch to part time work. Whether that is at this company or back on the ropes. I don’t care which as long as I’m not working 5 days a week, 47 weeks of the year.

Don’t fuck up the amazing thing I have just found myself hopefully on the verge of getting into. (Don’t want to jinx it). If it doesn’t work out don’t lose myself in process.

So in summary; continue mental health improvements

Try and do more cool climbing at a challenging level for me. With my fiends

Finish house graft

Work less

Don’t fuck up the thing that is too young to have a name 😂

Hope 2022 is a good one for everyone

[Wood FT]

Congratulations! 6 months paternity, sweet deal! I've got 4 weeks, and then taking the odd extra week tagged onto other holidays, so hopefully will have plenty of family time.

Roll on the new one being old enough for the running buggy!

Feel like I really dropped the ball on this one and just had the 2-weeks...

[Wood FT]

Suicide blonde

I am not belaying you on that. Torbay Choss.

Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

But I would like to try this with you.

re: 8b... Surely Predator?

[Fultonius]

Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.

After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.

I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.

I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical), and give me some space to:

• Train
• Start / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get done
• Develop my freelance network
• Get better at Sea-Kayaking with OH,
• Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)
• Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there.
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron.
> Start working Reqiuem
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.

[Fiend]

Malc's Arete isn't that local to Glasgow....

I liked Monkey Spanking but the climbing isn't as great as the flawless line. That's my sole contribution to any 7B debate ever.

[Fultonius]

Malc's Arete isn't that local to Glasgow....

No, but happy to head up for a few weekends for a play.

I liked Monkey Spanking but the climbing isn't as great as the flawless line. That's my sole contribution to any 7B debate ever.

I've had a few goes on that. Will remember to drag my mat in when going in for Moving Shadow.

[SA Chris]

Well 2022 looks set to be off to a better start, with new job and less time commitments and WFH for at least some of the time so;

Winter

Still hoping to get to the Alps, not looking like it will be this month as planned, might need to put back.

More ski touring. Had some great days last year, but limited to "local". Be nice to get to West Coast, and never skied 'Coe.

Failing that, get on some winter routes if conditions for skiing don't come good. Nothing crazy, a few IIIs or IVs maybe, not swung an axe in about 8 years (apart from easy ski approaches). Might even upgrade kit, Vegas and Pirahnas look archaic.

Rock

Local bouldering projects.

Get to more Scottish spots; Drumore / Torridon / Strathnairn etc.

Couple of mountain trad routes.

Get psyched for a local sport project.

Climb the trad line I spotted locally on an unrecorded crag a few years back, that no-one has found yet.

Do some local DWS.

Sea

any of;

More surfing

Some more SUPing

Just getting in the sea more - it's only a 15 min walk from the door.

Running

1000 km total in the year

otherwise; still undecided, might do another marathon or ultra, or maybe focus on a half marathon PB.

Not neglect strength and conditioning and don't get injured again.

Personal

Get face out of screens and read more.

Sort out finances.

get house extension done.

[Duncan campbell]

Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

But I would like to try this with you.

re: 8b... Surely Predator?

Let’s go try corridors together!

Yeah predator is probably the one. I just don’t know if I have the vitamins. Guess I’ll just see. Tbh the groove captures my imagination more.

[yetix]

Also keen on corridors at some point if an extra pad or 2 would be desired

[Duncan campbell]

Great stuff 

[TobyD]

Suicide blonde

I am not belaying you on that. Torbay Choss.

Its perfectly fine,  by Devonian standards. IIRC, a tight eliminate, but decent enough climbing. 


My aims for 2022; start climbing again properly having spent the last year just going to a wall occasionally to tick over. I haven't really got my head into particular routes yet, but anything about E3 / 7c that I haven't done before,  I'd be content with. 

[JohnM]

• Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)

That thing looks amazing. I had thought about that route as a possible objective in the past. Are there any security issues round that region these days?

[Fultonius]

• Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)

That thing looks amazing. I had thought about that route as a possible objective in the past. Are there any security issues round that region these days?

Seems pretty safe these days, plenty teams out in the last 10-15 years without any incidents.

[shark]

Walked away empty handed for the second year in a row in terms of projects. Basically ticked nothing hard since September 2019 when I did Bens Roof. I put all efforts late summer and autumn into Cross N Angry and it didn’t work out and was dispiriting.

I still aspire to tick one or more of my projects. Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

Overall in 2022 I want to enjoy my climbing more and tick something that’s hard for me.

Things I’ll do differently this year.
- No limit projecting when it’s too warm/humid as it’s demotivating
- Drop my grade in the summer
- Travel more
- Resume trad climbing (still aspire to onsight an E6 at some point so need to start building back into it)

If year pans out well it will include:

Jan: 3 week trip to Spain with Duncan leaving on Friday 🤞
Feb: Focus on Bens without kneebars
Mar/April: Malham season. Oak/Mescalito
April/May: Host a yank I hit it off with  n Chulilla and weather permitting take him on a South West sea cliff tour
Summer: Van trip to Briancon area with Sonia
Autumn: Tor or Malham projecting
November: Red River Gorge (be fit for it this time)

List of outstanding projects: Cross N Angry 8a+, Statement of Youth 8a, Mescalito 7c+, Austrian Oak 8b, Blind Date 7b+, Moffatrocity 7B+, Bens Roof without Kneebars 7C+/8b.

[Liamhutch89]

Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

This is extremely inspiring to me!

[shark]

Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

This is extremely inspiring to me!

  The really big win here this year was the improvement in recruitment strength ie latching a hold and being able to apply a higher % of force from doing velocity/speed pulls. Always been a weakness for me ie struggling to jump and latch holds especially double handed

[Duncan campbell]

Walked away empty handed for the second year in a row in terms of projects. Basically ticked nothing hard since September 2019 when I did Bens Roof. I put all efforts late summer and autumn into Cross N Angry and it didn’t work out and was dispiriting.

I still aspire to tick one or more of my projects. Age is against me (58 in April). On the plus side my fingers keep getting stronger / less weak.

Overall in 2022 I want to enjoy my climbing more and tick something that’s hard for me.

Things I’ll do differently this year.
- No limit projecting when it’s too warm/humid as it’s demotivating
- Drop my grade in the summer
- Travel more
- Resume trad climbing (still aspire to onsight an E6 at some point so need to start building back into it)

If year pans out well it will include:

Jan: 3 week trip to Spain with Duncan leaving on Friday 🤞
Feb: Focus on Bens without kneebars
Mar/April: Malham season. Oak/Mescalito
April/May: Host a yank I hit it off with  n Chulilla and weather permitting take him on a South West sea cliff tour
Summer: Van trip to Briancon area with Sonia
Autumn: Tor or Malham projecting
November: Red River Gorge (be fit for it this time)

List of outstanding projects: Cross N Angry 8a+, Statement of Youth 8a, Mescalito 7c+, Austrian Oak 8b, Blind Date 7b+, Moffatrocity 7B+, Bens Roof without Kneebars 7C+/8b.

If it is in any way helpful to hear I thought you climbed very well when we climbed together at Malham that day. I was surprised you didn't get any of your projects done (specifically mescalito which it sounds like you snatched defeat from the jaws of victory and Cross'n'angry which I thought once you'd linked the crux you might of had a good stab at)

[shark]

Thanks Duncan,

After dropping clipping the belay on Mescalito the following visits were a bit too warm IIRC and I didn’t go back to Malham or LPT for that matter in the Autumn as I was concentrating on Cross N Angry. After linking the crux section of C&A on top rope I went to Berlin for a long weekend then caught a nasty cold on the way back and never really got back where I needed to be after that. Nevertheless my efforts on Mescalito, Statement and C&A helped me regain my route endurance which with hindsight has been lacking over the last few years (an assessment by John Kettle revealed I had a boulderers profile). Hope I can cash some of that endurance in this year.
Should add that I still enjoyed the vast majority of my sessions last year but got stale and frustrated on C&A towards the end.

[Will Hunt]

I'm sure the belay of Mescalito has been moved/is going to be moved this off-season. Retro-ticks for those who've dropped it while trying to clip it in the original position? 

[duncan]

Keep them short and ambitious this year.

Foil - one hand on the (wrong part of the) top of the crag. The only time I tried hard on a trad. route all year and it was very satisfying. Don’t know why I didn’t do more of this, well I do, and I’ll be trying a bit more in 2022.

1. Try hard more often. In the last three or four years I’ve mostly avoided pushing myself, especially on trad., defaulting to mileage days which are fun and sociable but I won't be remembering in 10 years time. This has been necessary at times due to not feeling mentally robust and influenced by not trusting my body after dislocating my shoulder in 2017. There is a balance to find between pushing myself and pressuring myself but I could do a bit more of the former. This is an aim rather than an objective.
2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland).
3. 7b+ (Road Rage
4. E5 (or at least more than E2...).

[Wood FT]

Suicide blonde

I am not belaying you on that. Torbay Choss.

Its perfectly fine,  by Devonian standards. IIRC, a tight eliminate, but decent enough climbing. 

I belayed Ferdia on it and didn't enjoy the belay.

[SA Chris]

2. Climb something from my best Christmas present this year (The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland ) and last year (The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland).

If you are in the East and need a string holder for anything of a reasonable grade give me a shout.

Also note my tiny contribution to the latter (pg 70).