Aims for 2022

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jwi said:
James Malloch said:
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!

Yeah I think I’d like to give it an onsight go. Would love another crack at Blockagé Violent too, hopefully I’ll be going better than I was 7 years ago!
 
James Malloch said:
jwi said:
James Malloch said:
[...]
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
[...]
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse

Good combination of goals. Cent patates is eminently onsightable!

Yeah I think I’d like to give it an onsight go. Would love another crack at Blockagé Violent too, hopefully I’ll be going better than I was 7 years ago!

Cent patates is a lot, lot easier than Blocage. I thought it was 7b but happy to take the tick given everything else at Ceuse is nails. The fact that CP gets the same grade as changement de look is a joke! I love it there, want to go back again this year.
 
spidermonkey09 said:
Cent patates is a lot, lot easier than Blocage. I thought it was 7b but happy to take the tick given everything else at Ceuse is nails. The fact that CP gets the same grade as changement de look is a joke! I love it there, want to go back again this year.

Well, yes. (Cent patates is also given 7b in both of the local guidebooks). Fun fact: Changement de look was given 7c in the first printed topo for Céüse. I am not sure why they changed the grade. In its current status it is a lot closer to 7c+ than to 7b+. However there is a 7b+ that is even harder to its right. Got to love the mid eighties and their competitive grading on mid sevens.
 
A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.

Ged said:
Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.
If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.
2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).
3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).
4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.
 
Congratulations! 6 months paternity, sweet deal! I've got 4 weeks, and then taking the odd extra week tagged onto other holidays, so hopefully will have plenty of family time.

Roll on the new one being old enough for the running buggy!
 
Congrats Stabbsy, and 6 months! Quite jealous. Thought I'd done well with 6 weeks + 2 weeks holiday.
 
I would like to add "Do Bumlog Millionaire 7A and Colt 7A+" to my aims for this year as they are currently the two problems I've put the most time into without doing.
 
Hoseyb said:
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.

If we're adding to the aims, I should declare that I'd better finish a certain Cwmfynnon patio that I've pottered with for the last 5 year's or so. Although it's unlikely it will get much action. It's more of a performance piece or installation
 
Time to set the 2022 goals. Some are dependent on injuries and other factors out of my control but even a couple of things off the list will make for a good year!

Climbing

1. Fix my right elbow.
2. Finish Der Schwarzer Schwann (8c).
3. Finish some 8a-8bs I have tried in Tirol - Particularly Rose der Zeit (8a+).
4. Climb on some sport sandstone (NRG, RRG or Taipan if it opens again).
5. Go bouldering outdoors again.

Running/Cycling/Fishing/Skiing

1. Fix my ankle and knee tendonitis (or at least keep it at bay).
2. Do a ski x-country marathon.
3. Finish one or more of - Bob Graham Round, Eiger Ultra, an Everesting, UTMB (dependent on entry lottery), Dragon's Back Race (dependent on not getting in UTMB and getting a place via the waiting list), run 3000km.
4. A nice cycle tour (2-3 days).
5. Catch a 20lb+ pike.

Misc./life

1. Sleep more/better.
2. Drink less.
3. Get less stressed about work + work less (maybe try and take Q4 off work).
4. Learn more French.
 
Fun
Try harder on a rope
7A
Funny little wild moorland locations
Read more
Use phone less
 
same same, but different

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. See Ryuichi for inspiration. (briefly tried last week and didn’t last a second on either hand!)
- 5 eights
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes
- 5 off the highball list
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups)
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays)
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects
- 5 training room PBs (hopefully set some benchmarks in the next few weeks)
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts (benchmarks all set, but haven't really spent much time pushing them, so 5% might be too easy, we'll see).

wildcard lifetime goal
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022)

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).
 
Shockingly, lockdowns, injury and becoming a parent has meant my last logged outdoor climb/boulder was in May... FFS. Shouldn't be too hard to better that in 2022 I hope, so my aims are simply:

1. Jumping on the bandwagon here as well - be a good Dad/partner.
2. Build the woodie (shed is up, materials have arrived, holds on order... just need a precious day or so to put it up)
3. Get back to the outdoors in general with family - walking, camping, van, etc
4. Do more climbing than 2021.
5. Look after bicep.
6. Get in some more Trad days with my brother, like the good old times!

Less of a priority now and seemingly impossible:

7. Finish (haha!) house renovation and endless list of DIY jobs
 
36chambers said:
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).

Glad this isn't just me (although also sorry to hear you're similarly afflicted).

Hard to say what it really is but I definitely feel shitter than before, despite objectively being as good / maybe just not ticked anything quite as difficult as before but it's all there, just a lack of opportunity. Dunno.

Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown", was thoroughly irritating when that was absolutely miles away from my own experience!
 
36chambers said:
same same, but different

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list
- 5 sec, one hand, front 3, BM2K outer edge. See Ryuichi for inspiration. (briefly tried last week and didn’t last a second on either hand!)
- 5 eights
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 sessions on new to me 8B’s
- 5 sessions on 8a+/< sport routes
- 5 off the highball list
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups)
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays)
- 5 Dragon/God level board projects
- 5 training room PBs (hopefully set some benchmarks in the next few weeks)
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifting lifts (benchmarks all set, but haven't really spent much time pushing them, so 5% might be too easy, we'll see).

wildcard lifetime goal
- do an 8A in the forest (close during my short trip in Oct 2021, hopefully I'll get another punt in 2022)

and finally
- get back to pre-pandemic perceived level of ability (might be purely psychological, but I feel like my general climbing level has dipped during the pandemic, so it will be nice to feel like I’m properly cranking again).

You've got a few more offwidths at Brimham to see off as well fella.
 
Climbing-wise - same as last few years:

Do a new (to me) 7a outdoors somewhere.

Easy to say, but getting the stars of weather / time / family life / ability to all align suitably is the challenge here.

Outside of climbing:

Carry on working from home without going too stir-crazy
Learn to maintain, and actually maintain huge / complex garden on the new house
Be / carry on being an alright Dad and partner
 
Loving these Dad-based goals, personally I have found it nigh-on impossible to keep climbing since birth of my non-sleeping first child nearly 4 years ago. Have just about kept my hand in indoors. Now have an 8 month old non-sleeping 2nd child. But am feeling fairly motivated this year after reading Ned's Beastmaking book.

CLIMBING/FITNESS GOALS:
1. Process - at least 1x week fingerboard session
2. Process - at least 6x outside climbing weekends over the year. This probably horrifies regular climbers. Being London based with aforementioned children and non-climbing wife and with the pandemic I only managed 2 outdoor climbing days in 2021 and one in 2020.
3. Process - at least 1x week outdoor cardio (running/skipping/whatever) during work from home lunchbreak
4. Boulder - 7A+ outside. Lightning Strike or Hot Ride at The Cuttings most likely candidates.
5. Routes - I'm actually going to set an indoor goal because this seems more realistic and achievable. I have loads of outdoor routes I want to do but I can't guarantee I'll be on them when they're in condition and I don't know if I'll get enough outdoor mileage to push my grade. But I'd like to onsight or flash 5 indoor 7as this year.

Plus rehab my dodgy shoulder and neck.

NON-CLIMBING GOALS:
1. Enjoy 2 months of Shared Parental Leave being main carer for sons - use this to be more helpful to wife throughout year
2. Teach my older son to swim
3. Finish writing my second novel

Hope everyone has a happy and productive 2022.
 
Bradders said:
Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown"

Do you think he meant stronger on mass or stronger en masse? There’s quite a difference!
 
cheque said:
Bradders said:
Neil Gresham's article on the other channel about training during the pandemic, and how "overall it seemed that climbers were getting stronger on mass during lockdown"

Do you think he meant stronger on mass or stronger en masse? There’s quite a difference!

Pissed me off either way :lol:
 
What a difference a year makes!

Feeling much better but still been kind of wary about setting any goals. However it’s not like I don’t have any may as well set my stall out.

I definitely feel like I am on an upward trajectory at the moment so my main aim is to continue on the same path of self acceptance, self love and appreciation for what I have. In the past year I also aimed to have more fun and I wish to continue this into 2022 (and beyond).

The above are my main goals and any goals I state below are secondary to these. If trying to achieve one is contradictory to maintaining good mental health then I hope I will drop it.

Climbing

Never sure whether highly specific or vague is the way to go. I’ll try and hit both.

In no particular order...

More E6 attempts from the ground.
Specifically; LOTF, Suicide blonde, Big in America, Pulsebeat, Sixpence, Ghost Train, Grezelda.

Be good to regain my previous overall trad form.

More ~8a sport.

The Groove or Urgent Action would be ace. Zoolook and soft option being others I’m keen for.

Visit some new crags; Yew cogar, trow Gill.

Have a tickle at an 8b? Not too sure which one id try ...

Boulder more 7B+s sneak a 7C out? Would also love to try Corridors if Power.

Life

Finish house ASAP so fun can resume. (But do a good job)

Switch to part time work. Whether that is at this company or back on the ropes. I don’t care which as long as I’m not working 5 days a week, 47 weeks of the year.

Don’t fuck up the amazing thing I have just found myself hopefully on the verge of getting into. (Don’t want to jinx it). If it doesn’t work out don’t lose myself in process.

So in summary; continue mental health improvements

Try and do more cool climbing at a challenging level for me. With my fiends

Finish house graft

Work less

Don’t fuck up the thing that is too young to have a name

Hope 2022 is a good one for everyone
 
Ged said:
Congratulations! 6 months paternity, sweet deal! I've got 4 weeks, and then taking the odd extra week tagged onto other holidays, so hopefully will have plenty of family time.

Roll on the new one being old enough for the running buggy!

Feel like I really dropped the ball on this one and just had the 2-weeks...
 


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