I know I’m rubbish on indoor routes but the grades on the main wall are even more detached from reality than they used to be.
I can never get the first move of awkward classic done, is the beta to be stronger?
F - Drove home from a work event through the peak and stopped at Tom's cave for the first time. I only had an hour before it got dark, but almost managed hannibal, just not quite sticking the cut loose after getting the left crimp out wide. I'll return to try and tick it off at some point as the moves are class (and I have quite a high tolerance for quarried holes). Late in the session I found a wild upside down knee scum with my foot in the high roof making the throw to the left hand crimp slightly more secure than the more conventional heel.
4 weeks in a sling, 3 months off climbing then another 3 getting back up to where I am now!.... I'm going to at some point have to take the best part of a year off climbing/training is a pretty tough realisation.
Feeling: decent but annoyed at Bumlog Millionaire. What a problem! I'd trade it for any 7A I've done or indeed that I've tried.
So, one question I have (that I'm sure you probably discussed with the physio) is, what are the downsides of leaving it longer? I would have thought movement disfunction, wear and tear and risk of bigger injury? (non expert view).
What a week! Up and down then up and then down... Coming to the conclusion that I'm going to at some point have to take the best part of a year off climbing/training is a pretty tough realisation. Going to explore all alternatives but from the sounds of it I'm just delaying the inveitible... There's a specialist called Val Jones in Sheff that was a great help and if she had any availability I'd be seeing her but she's fully booked up and doesn't know when she'll have space... Trying to stay positive but it's tough...
The crux is whether your current non-ideal anatomy will lead, in the long term, to arthritis and more pain and dysfunction. Your surgeon thinks so. You’ve had some expert physiotherapy opinion that it isn’t as clear-cut as that. There is probably a degree of “s/he would say that wouldn’t s/he” in both camps. Any chance of a second surgical opinion?
The medium term (2-5 years) outcomes for non-surgical management are pretty good.....
What would I do if I was in your shoes? Hammer the conditioning and wait and see.
Professor Funk