I know I’m rubbish on indoor routes but the grades on the main wall are even more detached from reality than they used to be.
I can never get the first move of awkward classic done, is the beta to be stronger?
F - Drove home from a work event through the peak and stopped at Tom's cave for the first time. I only had an hour before it got dark, but almost managed hannibal, just not quite sticking the cut loose after getting the left crimp out wide. I'll return to try and tick it off at some point as the moves are class (and I have quite a high tolerance for quarried holes). Late in the session I found a wild upside down knee scum with my foot in the high roof making the throw to the left hand crimp slightly more secure than the more conventional heel.
4 weeks in a sling, 3 months off climbing then another 3 getting back up to where I am now!.... I'm going to at some point have to take the best part of a year off climbing/training is a pretty tough realisation.
Feeling: decent but annoyed at Bumlog Millionaire. What a problem! I'd trade it for any 7A I've done or indeed that I've tried.
So, one question I have (that I'm sure you probably discussed with the physio) is, what are the downsides of leaving it longer? I would have thought movement disfunction, wear and tear and risk of bigger injury? (non expert view).