[scragrock]

Yes Gaz we need ALL the insurances.

Unless you know someone within the Highland Council, then its fine

[SA Chris]

I'm suspecting scrag is in wind-up mode.

[Stewart]

but browsing through the list I come across a particular boulder that says in the heading 'ALL PROJECTS ARE CLOSED ON THIS BLOC'.

First thought: is this a thing for boulder problems, as opposed to sport routes where someone has put the effort in to bolt them?

Second thought: I suppose it's fair enough for boulders that have taken a fair bit of cleaning etc, but I'd go more down the line of 'please don't steal my project' rather than 'CLOSED'.

Third thought: good way to advertise unclimbed problems to anyone who would steal your proj...

Which crag is that?

[andy moles]

 It was Rooftown, but since I drew attention to it, said notice has disappeared 

Definitely going exploring at Rooftown next time I'm in the area...might invite some strong friends along too   

[scragrock]

Ok
so it's ironic that on a separate thread there is a discussion on how to keep things friendly on UKB and encourage more people to post.

I no longer moderate on Rooftown{ i had forgotten about the Closed Projects thing} , When you highlighted it i immediately asked the present moderator to take it down. With hindsight it was not the best way to word things.

I was in the meantime furiously back peddling in order to reverse an oversight {sorry Gaz for the wind up}

I think it's a shame that you feel its your right to insinuate your intension to sweep in and take a line on a bloc you know nothing about.
Stu and i worked really hard to clear the bloc in question so it doesn't seep, We grafted to build a stable platform in order to get a first ascent.
I am not saying i own the rock, far from it. But if someone were to tick of a line before i had a fair go i would be heartbroken.


Rob

 

[andy moles]

Don't panic Rob, I was entirely not being serious.

Sorry if that wasn't obvious!

I'd be gutted if someone nipped in and climbed a project that I'd spent time grooming to a climbable state, and would never knowingly do the same to someone else.

Sounds like you just got your comeuppance for the wind-up though 

[Bonjoy]

Yes, I also agree regards respecting folks' projects, especially where there has been work put in. Deffo worth wording requests as sweetly as possible though, as ultimately people have the right to ignore you if they see fit and although it's a crappy thing to do they haven't broke any hard and fast rules of climbing. I tend not to publicise anything I want to do myself and if I do publicise then I definitely consider it likely to get done by someone else if I'm not quick about getting it done. I also think any claim on a project, however tenuous, is also pretty time limited. I'm generally not psyched about people holding known projects for multiple years.

[BenjyW]

I can concur that whilst Drosera is good fun and hard, it's not had any repeats to qualify it for the list really. (Hint hint). Untrained Ear is a class problem at DunT though it could be swapped out for for sure.

Vid of Drosera here for context:

Definitely some good link ups on Ruthven too.

Barry Span Commander at Barry is one of the best 7s I've done locally too. Great movement and only one way to do it!

[GazM]

With the utmost of respect I don't think we can include link ups at Ruthven in a list of the best problems in the country!

I agree with Bonjoy, if I don't want folk to come and try stuff I won't publicise it. On the flipside, in one case I made it very clear that a problem was an open project and felt very gratified when it was done and the FAist thanked me for my efforts in cleaning and publicising.

Slightly  but I don't think that many people know quite how much effort it takes to get some stuff clean and climbable. I do totally understand wanting to have a fair go at something after putting in loads of time prepping it.

[scragrock]

I agree Gaz, Link ups at Ruthven are good but probably not Scotland standard.

I cant argue with your way of operating, You have a long and varied history of first accenting in the Highlands that i have huge respect for. I think for this reason you have a clearer understanding of the work and sacrifice that goes into not just cleaning a line but developing a whole area.

On more than one occasion my hand has been forced to reveal blocs/lines/areas before they were complete by folk stumbling over them or by random chat. This has generally been fine as most of the climbing community respects the rule of "You clean it, You get first go".
i also agree that there is a time limit on this if folk are lining up behind you. {Not really an issue for me as most of you wads don't climb my stuff}.

I have and continue to share cleaned problems with passionate locals and folk who can be arsed to walk in to the various hidden away places i find.

[scragrock]

Back on Topic

My pick of the best unknown lines from Strathnairn that might make the list

Rooftown-
Reptile Disfunction
Blackjack
Kansas city shuffle
Raphael sit

Barry Valley-
Shut your Moustache
Barry span commander
Equinox   

Dunlichity-
Marla

Brin-
Sharmoth

[Alex-the-Alex]

It's a strange one. On one hand if closing projects or whole areas is deemed ok you have a weird "I saw it first" playground mentality. What's the deadline? 1 month? A year? 5? how local do you have to be to claim an area like this?

On the other hand if you play by the usual rules and just keep quiet and hope noone hears about it the community can miss out on a new area for years to decades.. and then you end up with a mess of retro claiming too... 

I think most on here know how much effort is required. But agree it's not always obvious to people just starting

[Stewart]

Fortunately in Scotland if anyone really wants to do their own FA they can generally just walk into the wilderness and find one. No shortage of unclimbed boulders. Finding something new that is relatively close to the road with a nice flat/dry landing though.....

I'm back at work today so will endeavour to update some of the changes to my list! 

[SA Chris]

Not sure what else on the NE Coast should go in; a few well regarded 7s at Clashfarquar, and a handful at Pow Kebbuck / Sharmasheugh, but not sure what is still climbable there since the block in the roof collapsed; not heard of anyone going for ages.

[andy_e]

I went twice in January but was thwarted both times by seep'n'grease. Thomnomnom went a few weeks ago. There's a few dedicated locals who even make the trip over from Inverness occasionally... When did the roof collapse?

[scragrock]

It's a strange one. On one hand if closing projects or whole areas is deemed ok you have a weird "I saw it first" playground mentality. What's the deadline? 1 month? A year? 5? how local do you have to be to claim an area like this?

On the other hand if you play by the usual rules and just keep quiet and hope noone hears about it the community can miss out on a new area for years to decades.. and then you end up with a mess of retro claiming too... 

I think most on here know how much effort is required. But agree it's not always obvious to people just starting

Ok i was hoping we might move on beyond this, I didn't sleep a wink last night and i don't post that often as i always tend to fuck things up.

So apologies if i have hurt anyone's feelings or put noses out of joint.

Thank you everyone for your patience.

[Thomnomnom]

I thought Dr Inferno at Pow was quality but the landing is a pain in the arse. Optimus Prime is the better problem on that coast and deserves its place on the list. Never been to Clash but I imagine that's where the east coast gems are?

In Strathnairn I'd second Barry Span Commander getting on - just a brilliant, unlikely move. And I'd second Barry Manilow getting nowhere near the list 

Goes without saying that Hell To The Liars should be there (btw, agree that it could come down a grade, not that it matters much once you're up there).

[SA Chris]

Optimus Prime Sit is on the list already. Lots to choose from a at Clash, not sure what the cream is.

[Alex-the-Alex]

Not having a go Scragrock. It's just interesting to explore one of the stranger aspects of development. Im pointing out there's no right way to go about it. You guys have approached it in your own unique style over east and the results speak for themselves. It's now one of the best areas in the country! If Glen Nevis had half your energy it would be transformed. Keep on keeping on 

[andy_e]

Lots to choose from a at Clash, not sure what the cream is.

Clash Arete definitely needs to remain on the list, but Ting is also brilliant. Get yourself there Thom!

[Fultonius]

Barry Span Commander felt pretty sketch and unpleasant when we were up, but then when I got it (after many, many tires) I guess I was chuffed. I probably just didn't enjoy it as it played to all my weaknesses and none of my strengths, and it was a bit damp and showery...

BTW - this is not me saying it shouldn't be included, just more a musing on how to objectively agree on "quality". Clearly most find it top notch! Edit just re-watched and remembered, once I figured it out it was quite a unique move (in Scotland anyway) and my displeasure was probably mainly just egohurt^TM.

P.S. I'd second Mestizo Sitter, and also second NOT including Mugsy - it's a classic testpiece, but given that 1 in 5 attempts seem to end up in a session ending flapper....

[Stewart]

OK, your updated list. I've made quite a few changes but there are a few things that have been mentioned that i haven't included as there is no obvious consensus, or i disagreed. eg Nipple Attack vs Hook and Go at Loch Buie - i thought the former was not a definite line but.. the guide is a bit confusing on that one. Stuck with H & G for now as it is a good obvious line.
Oh and i've kept Zeus in, can't let Thom go getting 100% completed without sweating a bit..

Please continue to press your case if you think further changes required, but also advise what you'd swap!
I had the idea that a coffee table/guide book with one brilliant picture of each problem and a short description of the area (access, number of other routes etc) would be much better than a full new bouldering Scotland guide book which would be a major undertaking with the volume of new problems. Unfortunately i know nothing about photography or publishing so if someone else wants to steal this project you're very welcome! I'd certainly buy it!


Climb name    Grade    Crag name    
SW SCOTLAND         
Blacker than Black   f7C   Girvan Bloc   
Wacke Races   f7C+ ***   Monreith   
 Broken Obelisk   f7C ***   Garheugh Port   
Bowfinger   f7A **   Garheugh Port               New
 Retroclaim   f7A+   Rankin Boulder   
 The Witch   f7B+ **   Sandyhills   
 Craig's Wall   f7B **   Thirlstane   
 Stew's Wall   f7A+ **   Cairnhead   
         
GLASGOW         
 Pongo Arete   f7A+ **   Dumbarton Rock   
 Malky   f7B+ *   Dumbarton Rock   
Spanking the Monkey   f7A   Cambusbarron     New
 Silver Back   f7C ***   Dumbarton Rock   
 Slap Happy   f7A **   Dumbarton Rock   
 Wizard Sit Start   f7A **   Craigmore   
 Abracadabra   f7A ***   Craigmaddie   
Solus Rex   f7C+ **   Lennoxtown Boulders   
Gordon Bombay   f7C ***   Lennoxtown Boulders   
Far from the Maddening Crowd   f7C **   Craigton   
         
ARGYLE         
Turbinal Nose   f7C ***   Glen Croe Boulders...   
 Precious   f7C ***   Glen Croe Boulders...   
Ace of Spades   f7A+ **   Glen Croe Boulders...   
So Jackie O   f7B **   Kennedy Boulder   
Splurge   f7A+ *   Loch Sloy Boulders   
Free Energy   f7B+ ***   Loch Sloy Boulders   
 60 Minute Mullet   f7A+ ***   Mini Magic Wood   
 Arnold Quartzenegger   f7A   Mini Magic Wood   
The Sloping Ledge   f7A   Ardlui Boulders   
The Throttler   f7B ***   Loch Lomond, West...   
Out of the Blue   f7C ***   Loch Lomond, West...   
Jenny's Bay   f7C   Carrick Castle   
Broadsword   f7C ***   Glen Massan   
 The Croe Road   f7B ***   Dubh-lic Boulders   
 A Feast for Croes   f7C ***   Dubh-lic Boulders   
         
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS         
Inhibited Mania   f7C ***   Glen Lednock...   
Reiver's Logic   f7A+ *   Glen Lednock...   
Glass Shieling Project   f7B+   Balnacoul Castle...   
Rollercoaster   f7C ***   Balnacoul Castle...   
Bro-Down   f7C+ ***   Weem Crags   
40 Minute Man   f7A+ **   Weem Crags   
An Electric Feel   f7B+ **   Dunkeld, Cave Crag   
The Tombstone   f7B+ ***   Ben Ledi Boulders   
Cortège Noir   f7A ***   Ben Ledi Boulders   
The Zealot   f7B **   Glen Ogle Boulders   
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton   f7A **   Red Craig (Glen...   
         
LOCHABER         
Pagan Uilleann   f7A+ ***   Nevis Bouldering   
The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers   f7C+ ***   Nevis Bouldering   
Catch 22   f7C **   Nevis Bouldering   
Hamish   f7A ***   Nevis Bouldering   
Them Bones   f7B+ ***   Ardgour Boulders   
The Perfect Catch   f7C+ ***   Ardgour Boulders   
Glen Pean Mystery Climb   f7A   Splitter Crag   
         
ABERDEEN         
Optimus Prime Sitter   f7C+ ***   Cammachmore Bay   
Clash Arete   f7A+ ***   Clashfarquhar   
Ting   f7B+   Clashfarquhar                                               New
         
INVERNESS         
Strongbow   f7A+ ***   Creagan Soilleir   
Gale Force   f7A ***   Creag Bhuidhe...   
The Catch   f7B **   Scatwell Boulder   
The Settler   f7C   Duntelchaig   New
The Dagger   f7A ***   Duntelchaig   
The Big Lebowski   f7A ***   Ruthven Boulder   
QED   f7C   Ruthven Boulder                          New
Woodstock   f7B   Findhorn Gorge                  New
Barry Span Commander   f7A   Barry Valley          New
Reptile Dysfunction   f7A+ ***   Rooftown/Ruadha nan...   New
The Scientist   f7B ***   Brin Rock   
Susurrus   f7C+ ***   Brin Rock   
Farr Side Facet   f7C ***   Farr Boulder   
Ginger Rides Again   f7B ***   Cummingston   
Amateur Acrobatics   f7A+ ***   Primrose Bay   
Coastess   f7C   Primrose Bay   
         
NORTH WEST HIGHLANDS         
Escutcheon   f7C   Torridon Celtic...   
The Annatomist   f7C+   Annat Boulders   
 Malcolm's Arete   f7B ***   Torridon Celtic...   
The Mission   f7B ***   Torridon Celtic...   
Stokes Croft   f7C+   Torridon Celtic...   
The Essence   f7B+ ***   Torridon Celtic...   
The Balgy Prow   f7A ***   The Balgy Boulder   
Three Streaks (and you're out)   f7A+ ***   Annat Boulders   
The Universal   f7B ***   Coire nan Arr...   
End of Days   f7B ***   Kishorn Boulders   
The Main Issue   f7B ***   Reiff in the Woods   
Red Handed   f7A ***   Reiff in the Woods   
Rubha Dubh Dubh   f7C+   Reiff - Roinn a'...   
Romancing the Stone   f7A   Reiff - Roinn a'...              New
 Facet   f7A **   Ardmair Diamond   
Ruffies   f7B **   Rispond   
Simple Jack   f7C ***   Rispond   
Zeus   f7A ***   Sheigra Bouldering   
Bound for the Waves SS   f7A   Sheigra Bouldering               New
Bio Hazard   f7C+   Sheigra Bouldering                       New
         
ISLANDS         
Shroom Doom   f7A ***   The Mushroom, Arran   
Vertigo   f7B   Coire Nan Ceum, Arran   
Hook and go, sit-start   f7A ***   Loch Buie, Mull   
Serious Music   f7B ***   Hallival Boulders, Rum   
Normal People   f7B ***   Hallival Boulders, Rum   
Snake Attack   f7A ***   Ghrunnda Boulders, Skye   
Screapadal Prow   f7C+ ***   Screapadal Path…, Raasay   
 Just MTFU   f7B **   Aird Mhighe Crag, Harris   
Hard Lines   f7A+   Clisham Pass, Lewis   
The Cnipper   f7A   Uig Sea Cliffs…, Lewis                  New
Hell to the Liars   f7B+   Bla Bheinn, Skye          New

[SA Chris]

NE under represented. Golden Brown Sit should definitely be in IMO. And love or loath, a few Porty options and something at Boltsheugh. Could quiz Rankers see what he thinks.

Something like this would be cool  https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/climbing/bleau-blocs/

Not sure it would sell though.

[Stewart]

As mentioned already by SAChris - Hell to the Liars 7b on Bla Bheinn

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CEDBxnpD4h1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQohVqUDF_r/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Bonjoy, looks amazing. Have you added this to ukc?

[Fultonius]

OK, your updated list. I've made quite a few changes but there are a few things that have been mentioned that i haven't included as there is no obvious consensus, or i disagreed. eg Nipple Attack vs Hook and Go at Loch Buie - i thought the former was not a definite line but.. the guide is a bit confusing on that one. Stuck with H & G for now as it is a good obvious line.
Oh and i've kept Zeus in, can't let Thom go getting 100% completed without sweating a bit..

Please continue to press your case if you think further changes required, but also advise what you'd swap!
I had the idea that a coffee table/guide book with one brilliant picture of each problem and a short description of the area (access, number of other routes etc) would be much better than a full new bouldering Scotland guide book which would be a major undertaking with the volume of new problems. Unfortunately i know nothing about photography or publishing so if someone else wants to steal this project you're very welcome! I'd certainly buy it!


Climb name    Grade    Crag name    
SW SCOTLAND         
Blacker than Black   f7C   Girvan Bloc   
Wacke Races   f7C+ ***   Monreith   
 Broken Obelisk   f7C ***   Garheugh Port   
Bowfinger   f7A **   Garheugh Port               New
 Retroclaim   f7A+   Rankin Boulder   
 The Witch   f7B+ **   Sandyhills   
 Craig's Wall   f7B **   Thirlstane   
 Stew's Wall   f7A+ **   Cairnhead   
         
GLASGOW         
 Pongo Arete   f7A+ **   Dumbarton Rock   
 Malky   f7B+ *   Dumbarton Rock   
Spanking the Monkey   f7A   Cambusbarron     New
 Silver Back   f7C ***   Dumbarton Rock   
 Slap Happy   f7A **   Dumbarton Rock   
 Wizard Sit Start   f7A **   Craigmore   
 Abracadabra   f7A ***   Craigmaddie   
Solus Rex   f7C+ **   Lennoxtown Boulders   
Gordon Bombay   f7C ***   Lennoxtown Boulders   
Far from the Maddening Crowd   f7C **   Craigton   
         
ARGYLE         
Turbinal Nose   f7C ***   Glen Croe Boulders...   
 Precious   f7C ***   Glen Croe Boulders...   
Ace of Spades   f7A+ **   Glen Croe Boulders...   
So Jackie O   f7B **   Kennedy Boulder   
Splurge   f7A+ *   Loch Sloy Boulders   
Free Energy   f7B+ ***   Loch Sloy Boulders   
 60 Minute Mullet   f7A+ ***   Mini Magic Wood   
 Arnold Quartzenegger   f7A   Mini Magic Wood   
The Sloping Ledge   f7A   Ardlui Boulders   
The Throttler   f7B ***   Loch Lomond, West...   
Out of the Blue   f7C ***   Loch Lomond, West...   
Jenny's Bay   f7C   Carrick Castle   
Broadsword   f7C ***   Glen Massan   
 The Croe Road   f7B ***   Dubh-lic Boulders   
 A Feast for Croes   f7C ***   Dubh-lic Boulders   
         
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS         
Inhibited Mania   f7C ***   Glen Lednock...   
Reiver's Logic   f7A+ *   Glen Lednock...   
Glass Shieling Project   f7B+   Balnacoul Castle...   
Rollercoaster   f7C ***   Balnacoul Castle...   
Bro-Down   f7C+ ***   Weem Crags   
40 Minute Man   f7A+ **   Weem Crags   
An Electric Feel   f7B+ **   Dunkeld, Cave Crag   
The Tombstone   f7B+ ***   Ben Ledi Boulders   
Cortège Noir   f7A ***   Ben Ledi Boulders   
The Zealot   f7B **   Glen Ogle Boulders   
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton   f7A **   Red Craig (Glen...   
         
LOCHABER         
Pagan Uilleann   f7A+ ***   Nevis Bouldering   
The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers   f7C+ ***   Nevis Bouldering   
Catch 22   f7C **   Nevis Bouldering   
Hamish   f7A ***   Nevis Bouldering   
Them Bones   f7B+ ***   Ardgour Boulders   
The Perfect Catch   f7C+ ***   Ardgour Boulders   
Glen Pean Mystery Climb   f7A   Splitter Crag   
         
ABERDEEN         
Optimus Prime Sitter   f7C+ ***   Cammachmore Bay   
Clash Arete   f7A+ ***   Clashfarquhar   
Ting   f7B+   Clashfarquhar                                               New
         
INVERNESS         
Strongbow   f7A+ ***   Creagan Soilleir   
Gale Force   f7A ***   Creag Bhuidhe...   
The Catch   f7B **   Scatwell Boulder   
The Settler   f7C   Duntelchaig   New
The Dagger   f7A ***   Duntelchaig   
The Big Lebowski   f7A ***   Ruthven Boulder   
QED   f7C   Ruthven Boulder                          New
Woodstock   f7B   Findhorn Gorge                  New
Barry Span Commander   f7A   Barry Valley          New
Reptile Dysfunction   f7A+ ***   Rooftown/Ruadha nan...   New
The Scientist   f7B ***   Brin Rock   
Susurrus   f7C+ ***   Brin Rock   
Farr Side Facet   f7C ***   Farr Boulder   
Ginger Rides Again   f7B ***   Cummingston   
Amateur Acrobatics   f7A+ ***   Primrose Bay   
Coastess   f7C   Primrose Bay   
         
NORTH WEST HIGHLANDS         
Escutcheon   f7C   Torridon Celtic...   
The Annatomist   f7C+   Annat Boulders   
 Malcolm's Arete   f7B ***   Torridon Celtic...   
The Mission   f7B ***   Torridon Celtic...   
Stokes Croft   f7C+   Torridon Celtic...   
The Essence   f7B+ ***   Torridon Celtic...   
The Balgy Prow   f7A ***   The Balgy Boulder   
Three Streaks (and you're out)   f7A+ ***   Annat Boulders   
The Universal   f7B ***   Coire nan Arr...   
End of Days   f7B ***   Kishorn Boulders   
The Main Issue   f7B ***   Reiff in the Woods   
Red Handed   f7A ***   Reiff in the Woods   
Rubha Dubh Dubh   f7C+   Reiff - Roinn a'...   
Romancing the Stone   f7A   Reiff - Roinn a'...              New
 Facet   f7A **   Ardmair Diamond   
Ruffies   f7B **   Rispond   
Simple Jack   f7C ***   Rispond   
Zeus   f7A ***   Sheigra Bouldering   
Bound for the Waves SS   f7A   Sheigra Bouldering               New
Bio Hazard   f7C+   Sheigra Bouldering                       New
         
ISLANDS         
Shroom Doom   f7A ***   The Mushroom, Arran   
Vertigo   f7B   Coire Nan Ceum, Arran   
Hook and go, sit-start   f7A ***   Loch Buie, Mull   
Serious Music   f7B ***   Hallival Boulders, Rum   
Normal People   f7B ***   Hallival Boulders, Rum   
Snake Attack   f7A ***   Ghrunnda Boulders, Skye   
Screapadal Prow   f7C+ ***   Screapadal Path…, Raasay   
 Just MTFU   f7B **   Aird Mhighe Crag, Harris   
Hard Lines   f7A+   Clisham Pass, Lewis   
The Cnipper   f7A   Uig Sea Cliffs…, Lewis                  New
Hell to the Liars   f7B+   Bla Bheinn, Skye          New

Sounds like a great plan Stewart. There's seems to be a bit of momentum in Scottish Bouldering at present. I just can't help but feel that what is really needed is a simple and not pay walled (or very cheap) community app that allows people to record details (Inc topos). I mean, in this day an ages you can take a snap on a phone, draw a line on it and upload in seconds. Just need to figure out what platform to use.