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Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland (Read 21036 times)

andy_e

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And in my book Barry Manilow at Ruthven shouldn't make the list. It's just a grovel!

Not if you do it properly  :whistle:

Although it is a good problem, it's probably not one of the top problems in Scotland to be fair!

GazM

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What's the proper way? I seem to recall it involved udging over the bulge off a high left foot to reach a quartz cauliflower far back. And some random rule lower down about not using the jug that's 5cm right of the hold you are allowed to use.

andy_e

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Hmmm, nothing is out on Barry Manilow. Barry Manilower, on the other hand...

Match the slightly higher rail of crystals, left heel on the bulge, and lock static to the cauliflower. Graceful!

GazM

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Betts always told me the jugs were out. Not sure where he got that from though.

And on reaching the cauliflower I then have to udge my hips over the bulge in a most ungracious manner. All good fun, but yep, not one of Scotland's best.

SA Chris

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or Ruthven's best...

richieb

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 :whistle:

GazM

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He's lurking...
Come on Betts, don't be shy.

gardinrm

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For what its worth, in terms of Sheigra, its a shame there is only one there. Particularly given that Rispond has 2 and is a significantly smaller venue (don't know how good Ruffies is cause I've not tried it, would be good to hear how others think it compares to RSVP which I really liked).

Zeus is undoubtedly one of the most impressive lines up there, but to the best of my knowledge I'm the only one to have climbed it. Biohazard has seen more ascents and is brilliant.

Another from the Promontory would make sense (different rock, amazing problems). Perhaps Singing Sloth or Bound for the Waves SS would have been good to include. Cold Steel is also very good.

But I would say that. Proud of my patch..... :)

andy_e

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Stewart

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But I would say that. Proud of my patch..... :)

And so you should be! I'd love to get up there but not sure its suitable for young kids.  I'll definitely work a few more in and make some adjustments.  It's just choosing what to take out is the trouble.. that's a good thing though.

gardinrm

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but not sure its suitable for young kids. 

No, it really isn't. The stuff next to the beach is fine. But the promontory and land of giants both have quite serious approaches. I managed to wrangle it so my own kids were in France with their Grandparents :)

Droman pier is family friendly and has some nice stuff. All the details are on UKC.

andy moles

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Cool list, I'd give you a waddage point if I knew how.

Why limit to 100 though? It would be even better if you just opened it out to include all the problems above an arbitrary level of quality.

And even though it isn't all about Dumby, you should really have a bit more Dumby  :lol:
Mugsy, Mestizo Sit, Totality, The Shield...

andy moles

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Not that I've tried it, but Hell to the Liars on the big block below Bla Bheinn looks like it should be too (judging by the video).

I didn't know that block had been developed, where can I find the video?

scragrock

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Ruthven-
Barry is NOT a 7 even if you eliminate and don't use the cauliflower. Great problem though.
Neither is Lebowski but should be on a must do list.
Agree that both Razors Edge and QED should go on {Mike Lee mentioned that QED is probably the best climb he has done in Scotland, Praise indeed}.

DunT-
Drosera should probably not go in {i think Benjy would agree it's Not the kingline of the bloc let alone Scotland}
Dagger and the Settler should go in

Rooftown-
Neg Prog should come off, its not the best on that bloc or Strathnairn.

Primrose-
Amateur Acrobatics is class and should be on everyone's tick list.

Cummingston-
No votes for Finger Licker?

Sheigra-
Something at the Promontory would well be worth adding.
I would love to repeat Zeus but i don't have 85 thousand pads, Amazing line.

Arisaig Cave-
should come off{its ok climbing but only if its raining everywhere else}



How about a BEST IN SCOTLAND or Desert island bloc list {forget the grade} ?




Bonjoy

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« Last Edit: September 30, 2021, 08:19:40 am by Bonjoy, Reason: I\'m thinking 7b rather than 7b+ now »

SA Chris

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Not me, can't claim credit. Looks class tho'

Bonjoy

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Sorry, it was BAndy who mentioned

andy moles

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There is another impressive big block approached by the scree slope beneath the Great Prow on Bla Bheinn, over on the right, obviously seen from the path... Just in case you're ever back there and feel inspired to carry a pad even further.

Bonjoy

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The one way up on the boulder terrace below Clach Glas?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/49159768@N00/29949158942/
I went for a look at this the day I did HTTL. Wild location for a boulder! Deffo some decent bits to do on it. Unfortunately the best lines are too close to the edge. You probably wouldn't stop bouncing for a few hundred metres if you fell off!
« Last Edit: September 30, 2021, 10:12:52 am by Bonjoy »

andy moles

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That's the one. Top scouting, I've only checked it out when descending from the Putting Green. And yes, you'd need two spotters on ropes or something for the downhill side, might be pushing the reasonable lengths to which most humans would go for a boulder problem...

There's also another better hidden one further north below that east face face of Clach Glas, above the little gorge than runs down between it and Sgurr nan Each. Not quite as impressive, but not troubled by a death landing.

andy moles

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 :off: but browsing through the list I come across a particular boulder that says in the heading 'ALL PROJECTS ARE CLOSED ON THIS BLOC'.

First thought: is this a thing for boulder problems, as opposed to sport routes where someone has put the effort in to bolt them?

Second thought: I suppose it's fair enough for boulders that have taken a fair bit of cleaning etc, but I'd go more down the line of 'please don't steal my project' rather than 'CLOSED'.

Third thought: good way to advertise unclimbed problems to anyone who would steal your proj...

Bonjoy

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 :agree:

Alex-the-Alex

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It can take a bit of cleaning. But yeah stating they they're closed (in caps locks or otherwise) would goad me on.

On the flip side I sometimes struggle to see why closing bolted lines is any more legit than boulders or trad routes. Yes it takes effort but it can be so proprietary... This bit of wall is mine until I say etc just because I own a big drill... Like you say, the way it is asked and the individuals approach makes all the difference.

scragrock

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No No....The developer ran out of money so there is no longer the funding to complete the projects without the proper Insurance on That particular bloc.

We are hoping for a positive development soon.

 

GazM

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Eh? What's the situation there? Does the landowner require developers to have insurance to clean and climb new problems? What about would-be repeaters, do they need insurance too?

 

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