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Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland (Read 20952 times)

Stewart

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Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland
September 28, 2021, 10:28:10 pm
The top 100 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland.  Possibly. Some definitely are.  Others less so.. probably some glaring omissions too..
As much about the location and a tour of the country. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=4987

Feel free to suggest others more deserving or it may just be a handy ticklist to point out some locations and problems that are relatively unknown.. there's a lot more than Torridon and Dumby!

SA Chris

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I freely admit to have not done much at the grades, but Golden Brown Sit on Yukon boulder at Clash climbs pretty well, and is often in good nick (often too warm!).

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clashfarquhar-8738/golden_brown_sit_start-105601

Who nominated North For the Day? Razor sharp crimps up a non line?


Stewart

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Who nominated North For the Day? Razor sharp crimps up a non line?

 :sorry: I was trying to get a spread of venues as well and that seemed the obvious choice from Luath stones although I admit to never having been there.

There's quite a bit of guesswork for some areas. For example would be happy for Robbie et al to correct my Shiegra selections.  :smart:

SA Chris

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Fair enough!

Even though it's an eliminate, Two Peaches at Boltsheugh is a great prob (IMO). The people who give it a lower rating or grading generally don't follow the rules!

The Buzz, The Pit and Pain at Porty are generally regarded as the local classics, although I find the rock painfully sharp

Fiend

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Hiffle Piffs - not 7A, more like 6B+ (only a bit harder than Afterlife)
Bowfinger 7A ** - should replace Hiffle Piffs
Retroclaim - 7A ** - agree (not 7A+).

Mugsy 7A *** - should be on the Glasgow list
Monkey Spanking 7B ** - should be on the Glasgow (?) list
Spanking The Monkey 7A *** - definitely should be on the list, one of the very best in Scotland

Powerhouse 7A ** - could be considered as an option for Loch Sloy
Autumn Arete 7A/+ ** - could be added to Argyle

Le Toit du Cul de Mouton 7A ** - agree

Black Orc 7A ** - could be added to Lochaber

Clash Arete 7A+ *** - agree

Gale Force 7A *** - agree
The Razor's Edge 7A ** - could be added to Inverness, best 7A on the bloc.

Romancing The Stone 7A *** - definitely should be added to Highlands, could replace Razorback which is just an ugly lurch.

SA Chris

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Glen Pean Mystery Climb should be removed, I don't think it's even a problem, let along quaity.

BAndy

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Pump Up The Jam on Skye should definitely be in there. One of the best things I've climbed anywhere.

Not that I've tried it, but Hell to the Liars on the big block below Bla Bheinn looks like it should be too (judging by the video).

PlainCroi$$ant

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The fairly new stuff at Findhorn is ace and should probably make it on here.

Woodstock and Garden Party there are both class

Alex-the-Alex

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Cool list! It deserves a better platform than UKC  ;)

I thought Pushmi-Poolewe was great near Kishorn. And Kishorn Groove looks classy.

In Glen Nevis Dan V's arete Sinewave is wicked. It says worrying landing, but fine with a spotter. And the 7A+ on MacLeods Block looks like it would be good but it never gets climbed...

At Loch Buie Nipple Attack (or whatever the direct route on the nose is) deserves a spot. Such good movement! And I thought hook and go sit was debatable at 7A... Certainly compared to some of the other 7A's on your list! But then 7A is a grade range.

SA Chris

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Pump Up The Jam on Skye should definitely be in there. One of the best things I've climbed anywhere.

Is nothing else in Coire Lagan in the 7s? Surely Chieftan must be just into that grade.

Stewart

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I knew this was going to be fun  :punk:

Hiffle Piffs - not 7A, more like 6B+ (only a bit harder than Afterlife)
Bowfinger 7A ** - should replace Hiffle Piffs
Retroclaim - 7A ** - agree (not 7A+).

I find hiffle piffs desperate, never 6B+, Bowfinger stand is great but only 6C and the ss is nasty. Retroclaim is more like 7A which is weird as Roddie gave it 7A+ and the 7B next to it is much more like 7C

Mugsy 7A *** - should be on the Glasgow list
Monkey Spanking 7B ** - should be on the Glasgow (?) list
Spanking The Monkey 7A *** - definitely should be on the list, one of the very best in Scotland
No, No and No  ;D

Powerhouse 7A ** - could be considered as an option for Loch Sloy
Autumn Arete 7A/+ ** - could be added to Argyle
Didn't know about Powerhouse, will check it out. AA was very close but slightly let down by it's location, it's ok but not amazing

Le Toit du Cul de Mouton 7A ** - agree

Black Orc 7A ** - could be added to Lochaber
Good shout!

Clash Arete 7A+ *** - agree

Gale Force 7A *** - agree
The Razor's Edge 7A ** - could be added to Inverness, best 7A on the bloc.

Romancing The Stone 7A *** - definitely should be added to Highlands, could replace Razorback which is just an ugly lurch.
I preferred the latter but my lurch wasn't ugly.. you're probably right on this one to be fair

BAndy

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Pump Up The Jam on Skye should definitely be in there. One of the best things I've climbed anywhere.

The awake version of myself has just realised that this is a 7th grade thread. Oh well. I'm sure people who don't like jamming would give it 7A.

Stewart

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Glen Pean Mystery Climb should be removed, I don't think it's even a problem, let along quaity.

I added this as part of le tour. Basically to complete the list you need to get to Glen Pean and climbing something..anything. 7A for the approach.

I will review all the suggestions and try and update. And if you're going to suggest something please also suggest what it would replace!


Stewart

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The list in full

Climb name    Grade    Crag name 
SW SCOTLAND      
Blacker than Black   f7C   Girvan Bloc
Wacke Races   f7C+ ***   Monreith
Broken Obelisk   f7C ***   Garheugh Port
Hiffle Piffs   f7A **   Garheugh Port
Retroclaim   f7A+   Rankin Boulder
 The Witch   f7B+ **   Sandyhills
 Craig's Wall   f7B **   Thirlstane
 Shrinking Violet SS   f7C+ ***   Thirlstane
 Stew's Wall   f7A+ **   Cairnhead

GLASGOW      
 Pongo Arete   f7A+ **   Dumbarton Rock
 Malky   f7B+ *   Dumbarton Rock
 Mestizo Traverse   f7B **   Dumbarton Rock
 Silver Back   f7C ***   Dumbarton Rock
 Slap Happy   f7A **   Dumbarton Rock
 Wizard Sit Start   f7A **   Craigmore
 Abracadabra   f7A ***   Craigmaddie
Solus Rex   f7C+ **   Lennoxtown Boulders
Gordon Bombay   f7C ***   Lennoxtown Boulders
Far from the Maddening Crowd   f7C **   Craigton

ARGYLE      
Turbinal Nose   f7C ***   Glen Croe Boulders...
 Precious   f7C ***   Glen Croe Boulders...
Ace of Spades   f7A+ **   Glen Croe Boulders...
So Jackie O   f7B **   Kennedy Boulder
Splurge   f7A+ *   Loch Sloy Boulders
Free Energy   f7B+ ***   Loch Sloy Boulders
 60 Minute Mullet   f7A+ ***   Mini Magic Wood
 Arnold Quartzenegger   f7A   Mini Magic Wood
The Sloping Ledge   f7A   Ardlui Boulders
The Throttler   f7B ***   Loch Lomond, West...
Out of the Blue   f7C ***   Loch Lomond, West...
Jenny's Bay   f7C   Carrick Castle
Broadsword   f7C ***   Glen Massan
 The Croe Road   f7B ***   Dubh-lic Boulders
 A Feast for Croes   f7C ***   Dubh-lic Boulders

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS      
Inhibited Mania   f7C ***   Glen Lednock...
Reiver's Logic   f7A+ *   Glen Lednock...
Glass Shieling Project   f7B+   Balnacoul Castle...
Rollercoaster   f7C ***   Balnacoul Castle...
Bro-Down   f7C+ ***   Weem Crags
40 Minute Man   f7A+ **   Weem Crags
An Electric Feel   f7B+ **   Dunkeld, Cave Crag
The Tombstone   f7B+ ***   Ben Ledi Boulders
Cortège Noir   f7A ***   Ben Ledi Boulders
The Zealot   f7B **   Glen Ogle Boulders
Le Toit du Cul de Mouton   f7A **   Red Craig (Glen...

LOCHABER      
Pagan Uilleann   f7A+ ***   Nevis Bouldering
The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers   f7C+ ***   Nevis Bouldering
Catch 22   f7C **   Nevis Bouldering
Hamish   f7A ***   Nevis Bouldering
Them Bones   f7B+ ***   Ardgour Boulders
The Perfect Catch   f7C+ ***   Ardgour Boulders
Arisaig Original   f7B ***   Arisaig Cave
Glen Pean Mystery Climb   f7A   Splitter Crag

ABERDEEN      
Optimus Prime Sitter   f7C+ ***   Cammachmore Bay
Clash Arete   f7A+ ***   Clashfarquhar
North For A Day   f7A **   Luath's Stone...

INVERNESS      
Strongbow   f7A+ ***   Creagan Soilleir
Gale Force   f7A ***   Creag Bhuidhe...
The Catch   f7B **   Scatwell Boulder
Knife Wound   f7A+ ***   Duntelchaig
Drosera rotundifolia   f7B   Duntelchaig
The Dagger   f7A ***   Duntelchaig
The Big Lebowski   f7A ***   Ruthven Boulder
Barry Manilow   f7A ***   Ruthven Boulder
The Scientist   f7B ***   Brin Rock
Susurrus   f7C+ ***   Brin Rock
Farr Side Facet   f7C ***   Farr Boulder
Negative Progression   f7A+ ***   Rooftown/Ruadha nan...
Ginger Rides Again   f7B ***   Cummingston
Amateur Acrobatics   f7A+ ***   Primrose Bay
Coastess   f7C   Primrose Bay

HIGHLANDS      
Escutcheon   f7C   Torridon Celtic...
The Annatomist   f7C+   Annat Boulders
 Malcolm's Arete   f7B ***   Torridon Celtic...
The Mission   f7B ***   Torridon Celtic...
Stokes Croft   f7C+   Torridon Celtic...
The Essence   f7B+ ***   Torridon Celtic...
The Balgy Prow   f7A ***   The Balgy Boulder
Three Streaks (and you're out)   f7A+ ***   Annat Boulders
The Universal   f7B ***   Coire nan Arr...
End of Days   f7B ***   Kishorn Boulders
Don't Mess with the Shek   f7A   Sanctuary Cave
The Main Issue   f7B ***   Reiff in the Woods
Red Handed   f7A ***   Reiff in the Woods
Rubha Dubh Dubh   f7C+   Reiff - Roinn a'...
 Razorback (Boulder Problem)   f7A   Reiff - Roinn a'...
 Facet   f7A **   Ardmair Diamond
Zeus   f7A ***   Sheigra Bouldering
Ruffies   f7B **   Rispond
Simple Jack   f7C ***   Rispond

ISLANDS      
Shroom Doom   f7A ***   The Mushroom
Vertigo   f7B   Coire Nan Ceum
Hook and go, sit-start   f7A ***   Loch Buie
Serious Music   f7B ***   Hallival Boulders
Normal People   f7B ***   Hallival Boulders
Snake Attack   f7A ***   Ghrunnda Boulders
Screapadal Prow   f7C+ ***   Screapadal Path...
 Just MTFU   f7B **   Aird Mhighe Crag
Hard Lines   f7A+   Clisham Pass
Cnipped in the Bud   f7A+   Uig Sea Cliffs...

Fiend

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I wish I'd got a video of Hiffle Piffs. It's a few grades easier than Bowfinger - and the latter was voted as 7A by the curator of the top 100 List you've linked, I'd trust his judgement. In terms of the Afterlife slab, I got very familiar with it, and if you have HP at 7A, then AL is 6C+ or so, Half Life is 7B, etc...., if you're going to serious overgrade something on that slab it might as well be Half Life.

Mugsy is excellent for Dumby, a total classic by consensus and arguably better and more interesting than Slap Happy.

Ask Geek about Spanking The Monkey - "one of the best problems in Scotland". This is probably because it's one of the best problems in Scotland. As far as I can tell the list is 100 Best 7s In Scotland, not 100 Most Aesthetic Locations For 7s In Scotland. Actually in terms of climbing (and line) it's one of the best problems in the UK, if it was on the grit you wouldn't be able to get on it for queues. Monkey Spanking could theoretically be left out because the climbing is not quite as good as the line.

andy_e

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Good list. Agree about Teddy's Findhorn stuff, especially Woodstock. Good to see Coastess on there but I've heard rumours it might not be a 7, more like an 8. I'd add QED on, and maybe swap Drosera for Untrained Ear, or the Settler. Tsurugi is also meant to be amazing, and An Sgurr sitter is top quality.

Third Wave in Strathconon looks incredible, but nobody has ventured through the bracken to repeat it yet I don't think.

A damning indictment of Portlethen bouldering there too (but fair)!

Morar Monster at the Morar boulders was excellent, I thought!

Clach-mheallan at Reiff i'th'woods (actually this is 9A)

The list needs more Ruthven eliminates and link ups.

No doubt I'll think of more as the day goes on.

BAndy

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I think Cnipped in the Bud should be replaced by The Cnipper. The Cnipper is great whereas I thought CitB was a bit of a non-line (and impossible!). I didn't try Traighd Route (extension to The Cnipper) but it also looks very good.

Stewart

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I wish I'd got a video of Hiffle Piffs. It's a few grades easier than Bowfinger - and the latter was voted as 7A by the curator of the top 100 List you've linked, I'd trust his judgement.

:clap2: i really think it's way harder than Bowfinger, i have climbed the latter a few times since and it always feels straightforward, the slabs are all similar and i just picked the one that was 7A on ukc tbh, i wont argue though. 

Mugsy is excellent for Dumby, a total classic by consensus and arguably better and more interesting than Slap Happy.
i'm not sure about that, SH is such a basic obvious line that i think it's a better benchmark and more reflective of Dumby. All subjective though

Ask Geek about Spanking The Monkey - "one of the best problems in Scotland". This is probably because it's one of the best problems in Scotland. As far as I can tell the list is 100 Best 7s In Scotland, not 100 Most Aesthetic Locations For 7s In Scotland.
Who's Geek? Being the best is always a mixture of moves, line and setting. Perhaps it could squeeze in ahead of mestizo traverse then

SA Chris

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Neil Mcgeachy

Stewart

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Appreciate all the other comments as well, although i've only replied to Fiend's valued feedback so far.

Good list. Agree about Teddy's Findhorn stuff, especially Woodstock. Good to see Coastess on there but I've heard rumours it might not be a 7, more like an 8.
Wacke Races falls into that category too

A damning indictment of Portlethen bouldering there too (but fair)!
 :agree:

Clach-mheallan at Reiff i'th'woods (actually this is 9A)
 :agree:

Thomnomnom

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I reckon Coastess will remain in the 7s, maybe with a +. Will depend a lot on conditions though.

Clach-mheallan is great  (agree that it's nails!) but maybe not as good as Red Handed as a line.

Personally I felt that Wooden Nickles and The Settler are both better than Dagger/Knife Wound on that wall, but that might not be objective as they were harder for me and thus more interesting. Either Dagger or Knife Wound could get bumped for Woodstock at Findhorn though, it's total class. And what about Hyperborea or is that better off left as E7?

I think for the Central Belt, Spanking The Monkey is very worthwhile. Could definitely go on instead of something at Dumby. Personally I prefer Slap Happy to Mugsy because it feels so uniquely pure.

At Sheigra Zeus is a stand-out line but personally I felt no desire to climb it/die trying. Doppleganger SS might be a better boulder problem on that rock. The Promontory gneiss is also worth including - good problems such as Cold Steel, Chimera (Low Start) or Singing Sloth could squeeze on.

Good list!


Fiend

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Appreciate all the other comments as well, although i've only replied to Fiend's valued feedback so far.
LOL!! Still it's a good topic to back and forth about.

A damning indictment of Portlethen bouldering there too (but fair)!
 :agree:

Clach-mheallan at Reiff i'th'woods (actually this is 9A)
 :agree:
:agree: too

andy_e

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Clach-mheallan is great  (agree that it's nails!) but maybe not as good as Red Handed as a line.

Red Handed is in no way a boulder problem!

At Sheigra Zeus is a stand-out line but personally I felt no desire to climb it/die trying. Doppleganger SS might be a better boulder problem on that rock. The Promontory gneiss is also worth including - good problems such as Cold Steel, Chimera (Low Start) or Singing Sloth could squeeze on.

Promontory gneiss definitely needs to be included. Chimera Sit Start Total Extension? Bound for the Waves sitter is excellent.

Thomnomnom

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Oh yeah, forgot BFTW ss - great problem worthy of the list!

GazM

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Good thread this. Few thoughts from me:

Clach-mheallan has always felt stern at 7A but 7A+ feels about right, but agree Red Handed is a far better line and problem (it is a problem Andy!). At RITW I'd include TP&QC before Clach-mheallan (and that one is 9A).

I wouldn't include Don't Mess with the Shek in a list of the top problems in the area. It's good climbing on great rock but more of a micro-route than boulder problem. Even with a "pad party of send train bellends" (Fiend, 2019) falling off up high wouldn't be fun.

Facet at Ardmair didn't feel hard enough to be 7A to me, but certainly is top quality. I think Ian T gave it 6C+ but it was bumped to 7A in Boulder Scotland.

And in my book Barry Manilow at Ruthven shouldn't make the list. It's just a grovel! Agree that Razors Edge is a better problem and an actual line.

 

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