UKBouldering.com

Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21 (Read 2290 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8019
  • Karma: +574/-16
  • insect overlord #1
Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 09:57:16 am
Guten morgen

11.4-5 average 159.3 up 1.1lb

M. Early AM home warm up. Stunning weather driving out. 6.5 degrees at tor and  fresh. If there had been an on crag wind it would have been velcro. Dogged up to AM headwall and did the top half of the crux section straight off. Went from Prow hole and felt good but fingers got tangled in rope by the bolt and got tired sorting it out. 15 mins rest then got link of the hole to the break where it joins Crucifixion. Finally! Second tie muffed Push Up as usual but linked from top of it to clipping bolt in middle of AM headwall. Too powered out to do the rest of it. Was starting to get warm. Went from break to Crucifixion crux placing quick draws. Dogged the crux and in the process rediscovered a hidden incut sidepull at the end of the crux traverse that I now remember using 10 years ago when I did Crucfixion. Doh! Dog walk then home. 17 degrees driving back

T. Eve. Aero Cap on systems board. 20/10ís. 2 sets

W.

T. Early AM Home FB warm Tor. Bit grim driving out but cleared up. 14 degrees but a decent wind made it ok. Dogged up Cross N Angry and refined moves at end of Crucifixion crux - much easier now. Went from ground and with a lot of effort and a higher foot got through Push Up with screaming tips and carried on through to the Prow hole but only just. Got enough back to get 5 moves into the crux section before coming off. Was utterly spent and came down. Thankfully Nick stripped it.

F. AM Recruitment hangs set them a couple of speed pulls. Amazing foot-on campus laddering session. 6 Laps. Improved first lap PB from 35 to 53 seconds! followed by 44 and 38 secs.
Eve. Flew to Berlin

S

S

Good week. Redpointing Cross NíAngry this autumn has gone from unlikely to possible now Iíve finally linked the crux section. Iím sure the week out will do me good and going back on it I can get slicker and fitter on the bottom section to the Prow hole (good rest) so Iím fresher and stronger for the crux section above. Next Tor session is on Friday.

Enjoying Berlin. Soniaís Achilles held up for the marathon. First trip abroad for two years since RRG and a good reminder that the faff arranging these things is worthwhile.

RobK

Online
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 219
  • Karma: +12/-0
#1 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 10:21:49 am
Good progress Shark, fingers crossed you get a good session Friday.

M - Rest. Stretching (30 mins).

T - Dinbren after work. Gorgeous evening. Draws in Out of Body Experience, nice long rest, and then did it first RP. Thought I was off about 3 or 4 times, required an embarrassing amount of power screaming. Enjoyed putting this together a lot, some very cool moves. High end 7c+ or low end 8a, Iím not sure. A lap of Orgasmatron to warm down. Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/CUHaWVYokof/

W - Run (30 mins). Stretching (30 mins). Starting to see some small but definite flexibility improvements.

T - Board after work. Quick warm up and then a volume session. About an hour working through 6C-7A+ problems, but using the big feet. Feeling good.

F - Rest.

S - Max hangs at 25kg. First 3 complete at the full 10s, 8s for reps 4 and 5, 5s for rep 6.

S - Mayfair Wall after bailing from a gopping Gorge. Great day of easier stuff with good company. Started with Mayfair 7a+, dropped the low crux on the flash but felt steady second go with a good sequence. Great position going all the way to the top of the crag. Then retro-flashed The Bloods 7a+. Took a nasty fall off this a few years ago so good to get back on it. The bolting is dreadful. Finished with a failed flash of Harry the Clamp 7a+. Got all the way through the hard climbing and then missed some holds on the easier top section. Feet too sore for a rematch.

In other news, inspired by Liam, I bought some anti-hydral a couple of weeks ago. Absolute game-changer. More effective than about three years worth of training. Canít believe Iíve been putting up with my awful sweaty tips all this time. Season seems to be winding down a little bit, hoping I still get a good couple of sessions in at LPT before winter.

James Malloch

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1123
  • Karma: +44/-1
#2 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 10:25:09 am
Iím going to give Power Club another go to try and keep some focus into the Winter Season. Starting a new job on Wednesday so itíll be easy to get into the habit of working later and climbing less as the sun sets ever earlier - hopefully this (and my current psyche levels) will help!

Listed a bit of the previous week as it was when my time off work started.

W. Quick hit after work to Yew Cogar. Warmed up bolt to bolt on Vorsprung Power (7c) and had my first red point on it after that. Fell off after going right to the rail after the crux. Didnít get it where I normally did and didnít commit. Next red point I used the same bit as #1 but committed to it properly and got it. First 7c for me and went pretty quickly (Three quick goes on a TR and then 2 redpoints).

T. CrossFit after work - doing squats and got up to 80kg (new PB). Bunch of similar stuff as a tiring circuit after that.

F. Start of my week off. Back to Yew Cogar. My friend Barry had already RP his route by the time we got there! I had a B2B on Cruising to warm up and Barry stuck around to give me a bit of beta on Staying power (7b+) which joins the top of the 7c I did on Wednesday. Had a proper fight but managed to get it first go putting the clips in. Some real try-hard and nearly came off 2/3 times. Feeling pretty fit at the moment. Really pleased with this one.

S. Craig-y-Longridge quick hit. Bunch of easy things and then did Muscle (7A/+) quickly.

S. Morning in Saltaire eating loads of cake/pastries and then drove to Wales

M. Trip to Elephantitous Cave to try the 7A of the same name. Took a bit to work out how to get the sloper on the lip but made it. Was a really warm day with lots of sun - good excuses already. Must have had 30+ goes once I got the beta, always getting to the sloper or falling going for it. Being shit in a narrow grip (see other thread) meant I punted the top every time. So much climbing but no tick! Went to the roadside boulder across the lake next. Did Hitcher (7A+) quickly and Seadogs Arete Sit (7A+). Had many attempts at the lower start and dropped matching the top jug 3/4 times. Absolutely knackered. Huge day for me after nor bouldering for a while.

T. Went to the pass and up to the Meadow Boulders. Flashed Meadow Roof 6C as a warm up and then did the 6B exit which I found way harder (bad beta for sure). Spent ages (so many goes) getting Killer Weed (7A) before dropping down to the Satellites and did Northern Soul (7A) and Arse Soul (7A) pretty quickly. Another big day - really feeling it after this.

W. Woke up to rain and was planning to head home to join a lost dog hunt. Went via Llandudno to get coffee + ice cream and stopped at the cave as the sun came out as we were passing. Did Left Wall Shothole start (7A) and then had a few goes at the full traverse but was too tired so gave up. Drove home and managed to find the dog (not mine) - YYFY.

T. Rest day - went to the Spa to float around in Bubbles.

F. Back in work.

S. Caley Crag Boulders. Some warm ups and did roof of the world + the aretes on the same block before getting stuck into a 7A+ arÍte. Came close a lot of times but no cigar. Tried the Horn and the Pinch, both of which I flashed 4 years ago. Both felt awful this time - horrible hot and sweaty conditions is my excuse.

S. Short session at Kilnsey. Some warm up boulders and then gave Launch Control (7C) a go. Iíve done the 7B stand before and had a few goes on the sit. Managed to refine my beta on the sit and climbed into the stand 3/4 times which Iím psyched about. Best go was not quite getting the RH pocket well enough to hold. Think it could go with a bit more work and would be my first 7C boulder if so. But for now I need some real rest after climbing 7 days in 10 - most of which bouldering after mainly sport climbing for a while.

It was a nice week off work before starting a new job in a few days. Nice to boulder more too and tick a bunch of 7Aís. Also found some things to work on over winter which is why Iíve decided to join in Power Club. Hopefully Iíll be able to continue getting out sport climbing for a bit more but after work sessions are probably coming to and end.

Keen to start setting some more things on the board and getting back to the wall for some more varied climbing. If anyone around Skipton fancies a session (board, inside or outside) then let me know. Would be good for the psyche!

yetix

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 333
  • Karma: +31/-0
#3 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 10:49:41 am
Careful with the antihydral Rob, it's great until it fucks you. I degloved an entire tip 2 weeks ago at Rhiw Goch and only now is my skin remotely back to where it was.

But it's defo v useful if used well!

Liamhutch89

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 361
  • Karma: +19/-0
#4 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 11:17:09 am
Good week. Toned down the training and did more climbing.

M - Rest

T - Max hangs in the morning to get recruited. 3 sets each for half crimp, full crimp, chisel, drag.

Nearcliff Wood. Finally managed to see off Red Devil, which has taken 3 visits to get done. Mummifying my index finger with tape allowed for full power cranking on the pocket. On previous visits I only managed to get so many attempts before going through skin and it's not even particularly sharp, so I must just have awkward sized fingers for it. Repeated Breach of the Peace then spent an hour trying to make up some links from one problem into the other.

W - dragon flags, planche progressions, front levers

T - max hangs in the morning to get recruited. 3 sets each for half crimp, full crimp, chisel, drag. Straight to Barnburgh Cliff and managed to do house of cards quickly, which was surprising as it felt quite knacky. Fluked up it in a few goes, but couldn't do it again for a video! Did a few easier problems then went to meet Bradders at Lound Hill.

Having done Colour Of The Sky already, I wanted to do the independent line Mind Echo, but first tried Synaesthesia which links from one to the other and perhaps combines the best climbing from each to make a great problem. Warmed up with a few links then managed to do it first try from the bottom! slightly harder than COTS but not by much.

Next had half an hour or so trying Mind Echo, but couldn't do the crux move, which is a huge, blind deadpoint at full span into quite a poor crimp slot from underneath a roof. hard! For me it will take some luck to hit that move, but I reckon I will see the rest of the problem off when it lands.

Finished the session on the highest problem there on the right hand side of the roof, The Hills Have Eyes, which must be around 8m high. Fortunately the hardest parts were lower down so it didn't feel like a true highball, but I thought it was a good problem anyway. For a small venue, Lound Hill packs in some quality for the mid to high 7's climber!

F - one armers, handstand presses

S - Arrived at Wharncliffe and it began raining as I parked up. Considered going straight home but walked in with 1 pad just to see. The rain stopped and Kobe was dry, but very warm and humid conditions meant I didn't get very far. In fact i'm not sure I even managed a move! Not sure i've got the fingers for this yet regardless of conditions.

Flashed the two 7A's in the outlook area, Kim Span and Sneaky Little Fingers. Both soft at 6'2. Finished with a few eliminates on outlook roof, the normal non-eliminate boulder being an improbable feature for the alleged grade of 6A!

S - rest

Climbing highlight below (featuring Bradders doing some gardening):



There are videos for Red Devil and The Hills Have Eyes uploaded too if anyone wants beta.

Liamhutch89

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 361
  • Karma: +19/-0
#5 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 11:22:56 am
In other news, inspired by Liam, I bought some anti-hydral a couple of weeks ago. Absolute game-changer. More effective than about three years worth of training. Canít believe Iíve been putting up with my awful sweaty tips all this time. Season seems to be winding down a little bit, hoping I still get a good couple of sessions in at LPT before winter.

Nice! I didn't even realise I had sweaty skin until I stared using antihydral!

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 504
  • Karma: +25/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#6 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 11:25:16 am
Nice one Simon... Sounds like it's on! Congrats to Sonia on the Marathon!

M: Recovery from festival....
T: Drive to Portland - come down with cold!
W: Feel like shit - Think it's Covid... Do test - all clear! Do some easy routes up to F6a... Wasted!
T: Feel like a pig shat in my head - More easy routes up to F6b...
F: Bleurggghhhh - Do another covid test... Still clear! Do some routes up to F6b+...
S: Some esoteric bouldering up to 6B and some routes @ Winspit up to F6a+.... Still feeling shit but can feel it waning!
S: Snot is now in full effect but actually feel better - Did some routes up to F6c inc. a techy one with a stiff crux and brilliant roof that took me ages (about 40 minutes on the route in all) to figure out but showed that the fitness is pretty good as managed to downclimb the crux once after going too far right and the roof 3 times before finding the correct sequence and rinsing it... Nice finish to an otherwise disapointing trip (climbing wise... the situation, weather and company were amazing!)...

Mixed bag... Being ill on me holiday sucked. However I'm definitely prepped and psyched for Kaly... All good.

RobK

Online
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 219
  • Karma: +12/-0
#7 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 11:34:03 am
Careful with the antihydral Rob, it's great until it fucks you. I degloved an entire tip 2 weeks ago at Rhiw Goch and only now is my skin remotely back to where it was.

But it's defo v useful if used well!

I can definitely see how this could happen. I used a very small amount twice last week and even that was enough for a dramatic effect. Haven't had to touch it since. Will be going with the very slow and steady approach.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3432
  • Karma: +189/-3
#8 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 11:42:53 am
Goal: new (to me) outdoor Font 7a ticked

Tues: LSD after work, bit of a crap session as I'd ticked everything I could and they'd stripped the slab and vert, so everyone was squashed into what was left. Tried sieging a V6 I'd been making inroads on, only to get to the top and drop the top hold. Arrrgggh!

Thurs: Off the back of the arrival of the Beastmaking book, high psyche so went back to wall. New set on slab and vert seemed a step up in grade...no impact on any of the V5s or V6s. Did 3 sets of repeaters, more in an attempt to check my grip form.

Sun: Unexpected window so back to wall for a chilled Sunday lunchtime session. Knocked off one of the V5s, and should have done another of them but powered out.

Good to get to wall 3 times a week, don't think I've done that for a few years. Just need to a) keep it up and b) not crock myself in the process now.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 6943
  • Karma: +504/-95
    • Unknown Stones
#9 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 01:23:34 pm
F - day off at Malham. Started on Against the Wall which I hadn't done before, though had done the parent routes. Then Dead End Job, then Rose. Clipsticked up Baboo and was dismayed at how hard it was. Andy, seeing my flailing, told me he was going to get on The Maximum instead. A combination of doubt over how long it would stay dry and nobody to shout beta up meant I stripped it. Had two plays on the Maximum, linking the start but for the move bringing the right hand up to a good undercut just next to the tufa-pinch thing.
Not sure I'll get back on the Maximum soon but is there any beta? I'm going to the tufa-pinch thing with my left hand and holding it kind of like a gaston (all fingers on its right side), but it feels like a major obstacle to then get the feet up and move the right hand to its neighbouring undercut - didn't do that move even on dog.

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1568
  • Karma: +89/-3
#10 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 01:57:57 pm
Much better week this, than last.

M - Lound Hill. Humid and still but dry at least. Did People Under the Stairs Variation to warm up, then put a rope down Colour of the Sky and worked the moves. Did the stand second go, then worked the hard bit. Decided that Mike and Liam's beta just wasn't wild enough, so ended up with a double toe hook method that felt tricky but for some reason less scary. Had a good go from the start dropping the first hard move in the stand, and one more go dropping the crux and then ran out of time.

Tu - rest

W - fingerboard pick ups. 6x 10s each of false grip, front 2 and middle 2. Weights still ticking up nicely. Also did wrist work including pinch grip pick ups.

Th - Lound Hill with Liam. Much better conditions. Haphazard warm up then did Colour of the Sky stand again. Top felt harder than on Monday. Re-did all the moves of Colour of the Sky, and tried a couple of alternative methods that didn't work, then did it first go from the start. Had to try pretty hard and my fingers went numb on the headwall which made the top feel quite nervy. Chuffed to get another one boxed off anyway, great movement. Afterwards put a rope down Mind Echo to give it a scrub and briefly tried some of the moves but struggled on the rope, then did the same on The Hills Have Eyes which Liam dispatched whilst I'd gone cold and wasn't fussed so one to come back for.

F - rest

Sa - AM fingerboard, 8x 10s 26mm edge, half crimp, 3 min rests. Did first 3 reps +37kg but this felt just too easy, so upped it to +39kg and completed. Considering my tested max on this edge at the start of July was +42kg, and late July I was doing this session +30kg, this feels like good progress! Really interesting to see, especially having gone up an edge size from what I was used to. Did wrist work after including pinch grip pick ups which went well.

PM board session for 90 mins. Tried same 3 hard problems as last week, actually did 1 of them albeit with a small dab, which was a surprise as it had taken 2 sessions to do 1 of the moves. Linked moves together on the others as well. Still a move to do on 1 of them though. Finished with 6x easy-mediums +4.5kg weight belt.

Su - conditioning, 90 and 135 degree dumbbell isometrics, leg lifts, Arnold press, hammer curls, wrist curls and scapula work.

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1061
  • Karma: +49/-0
    • YouTube
#11 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 03:15:37 pm
M: DBC. Training phase 1, week 2 , session 1. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ 1st go). Max hangs 7/53 *7hangs 18mm +40lb, felt hard at end. Moonboard for 50 mins, did 4 6B+ 5 6C all BM. SST to finish

T: In Atlanta with work, managed to fit in a 6am session (waking up at 0330 (bodyclock time) was not fun) The Outlook Bouldering & Fitness, Atlanta. Holds very new so ruined skin pulp quickly. Completed my 7 sets of 7/53 max hangs then tried kilterboard. Only managed one problem as skin too sore so did deadlifts up to 225lb X3 *3sets and a set at 275lb

S: Lincoln Lake. Started at Brown Wall V5 which went very quickly. Moved onto Lonely Carpenter (V7 -> 6) from stand, V9 from sit. Did the stand fairly quickly then got into the sit. Great moves apart from a nails thrutchy horrible first move. Put a lot of time and skin into it but no luck - not psyched to return too soon either. Finished by putting down Moonboard No. 8 V7 pretty quickly on the walk out, a really cool 2-move boulder
« Last Edit: September 27, 2021, 03:20:38 pm by Coops_13 »

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7801
  • Karma: +727/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#12 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 05:29:08 pm
Power Club

Mon - board climbing + some tests. EMOM high pulls 5x15 30". EMOM cleans 5x15 30".
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 60 kg 5x10. Bar work. Loaded carries.
Thu - rest.
Fri - EMOM weights.
Sat - EMOM weights very short on time.
Sun - Lattice edge 90/100% hot and humid. Full cleans in between, 5x5 60 kg. Loaded carries.

Liamhutch89

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 361
  • Karma: +19/-0
#13 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 27, 2021, 11:47:58 pm

26mm edge

Which edge do you use? I'm considering going up an edge size after hearing both Tyler Nelson and Lattice state that more force is exerted on a bigger edge and therefore it is probably better for strength gains.

I currently use a lattice edge which is a rounded 20mm and it's barely half a pad for my gigantic shovel hands! The lattice edge is very nice for drags but I don't think the large radius promotes very good half crimp form.

oldfella

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 394
  • Karma: +16/-10
    • Climberbiker.
#14 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 12:07:00 am
M: rest day
T: Awesome Walls after work.  7s max hangs. Body weight plus 20kg (106kg). Followed by routes. 6c, 6c, 6b+, 5c, 6b. 10min core.
W: 45min Peloton session. 10min core
Th: Feet on Campusing 10 sets of 1min on:1min off.
F: 60min Peloton session.
Sa: afternoon session climb at Chee Dale. Worked moves on Lunatic Fringe 6c+. The initial start moves were soaking wet. I climbed Max Pact Indirect twice and  then came back down to the crux section of Lunatic Fringe. I worked out a sequence for the crux move but the holds were too wet. I then linked from the 2nd bolt to the top and then stripped the route. Thereís a hands free rest on it and then thereís 6b climbing to the top. The moves are nice and the rock is good.
Walked up to Embankment and got on The Man Who Fell to Earth 6c+. It reminds me of the routes in Nowra. Short with a definite boulder problem crux section. Thereís nice wall climbing to the break & 3rd bolt. Getting to the break needs a bit more refinement. The break has big holds and decent foot holds to recover for the the next 6-8 moves powerful section to clip the bolt. From there itís straight forward.

Su: 45min Peloton ride 10min core. 3x30s density hangs on 20mm edge. Body weight less 7.5kg.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4896
  • Karma: +191/-3
#15 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 12:49:49 am
Good news on the link Shark - what's the rest like at the break before the junction with Crucifixion?
Nice work on OoBE Rob, looks good!
Good week James - so you did your first 7c and then 2 days later basically flashed 7b+? Need to try something harder!

M - Nothing, 12 hr shift
T - Nothing, 12 hr shift
W - Nothing, 12 hr shift
T - Listless hour or so at TCA on new blacks (high 6's) no energy or psyche, felt very vague tweak in shoulder but seemed nothing serious.
F - Nothing, mostly childcare and errands, but could have fitted something in if I was psyched. Could still feel something in shoulder.
S - Def shoulder impingement, pissed off. took daughter to UCR, she did really well. Then 12hr night shift.
S - nothing, 12hr nightshift

72 kg

Shit week. Heavy, got no training done, tweaked shoulder just before Kalymnos.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8019
  • Karma: +574/-16
  • insect overlord #1
#16 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 08:09:14 am
Good news on the link Shark - what's the rest like at the break before the junction with Crucifixion?

Thanks Duma

Not great - a mid two finger pocket and flat hold with rubbish feet on steep ground so best to press on for a few more moves to the shakeout on Crucifixion where it diverges from the Prow which is on good handholds but not ideal as itís super steep so you need to be fit to get much back. Itís all about energy conservation from there to have enough oomph for the Crucifixion crux 8?m higher

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 865
  • Karma: +61/-0
#17 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 08:43:38 am
M - Rest

T - Indoor bouldering. Shoulder stability + one arm hangs. Campus progressions (the road to 1-4-7). 8c replica boulders. Managed crux 1 a few times but it turned out to be at the sacrifice of my left rotator cuff. Therefore, maybe in the process of trying to get over strong on that crux I will now be weaker on it for the foreseeable  :slap: I didn't make much progress on crux 2. Assisted one arm hangs BM2000 middle lower edge (-10kg x 5). These felt very steady which has made me realise the fact that my home setup flexes makes things exponentially harder!

W - Routes indoors. Sore rotator cuff so was meant to be doing laps on easy routes but felt good and got drawn in to harder routes. 6b+, 7a+, 7c, 7c+ (2nd go), tried an 8a (felt good, some clips felt desperate and couldn't do the final move even in isolation), 7b+.

T - Nowt. Drove to France.

F - Road run 12.18km.

S - Climbing in Cotes de Beaune. Finished off "After Eight" a nice 8a there and the first of the grade in the region. Tried to onsight a long 7b+ slab. Loads of good drilled pockets until there wasn't and I became stranded in a kind of starfish shape between the final bolt and the chain. Remembered why I don't like slabs!

S - Nowt.

Nice to finally get something finished off outdoors after a long period of failure! Been feeling a bit crappy the last week or so. Partly self-inflicted (too much booze), some kind of allergy (maybe some kind of tree?), work stress, a very sore rotator cuff and negative mindset during outdoor climbing. Hopefully things are on the up now though. I might go to Kalymnos for a break and pull on some big tufa holds. It sounds like a lot of people are going!     

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1568
  • Karma: +89/-3
#18 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 08:55:08 am

26mm edge

Which edge do you use? I'm considering going up an edge size after hearing both Tyler Nelson and Lattice state that more force is exerted on a bigger edge and therefore it is probably better for strength gains.

I currently use a lattice edge which is a rounded 20mm and it's barely half a pad for my gigantic shovel hands! The lattice edge is very nice for drags but I don't think the large radius promotes very good half crimp form.

It's just a Taylor Made Holds campus rung turned upside down.

I've certainly got better at hanging that edge....whether it's actually translated to climbing though who knows, I mean I've had a good month or so since I started this cycle but could be any number of other things  :shrug:

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8019
  • Karma: +574/-16
  • insect overlord #1
#19 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 09:14:43 am

Considering my tested max on this edge at the start of July was +42kg, and late July I was doing this session +30kg, this feels like good progress!


Maybe not such a factor with the edge you are using but temps can have a big impact on max hangs scores so I prefer to compare against scores from ~12 month previous.

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1568
  • Karma: +89/-3
#20 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 09:35:18 am
Never used this edge size before so not much to compare against! I get what you mean though, and it's all irrelevant if it doesn't translate to actual climbing.

Plus I always fingerboard in the morning when it's cool anyway.

Liamhutch89

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 361
  • Karma: +19/-0
#21 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 09:42:35 am

Considering my tested max on this edge at the start of July was +42kg, and late July I was doing this session +30kg, this feels like good progress!


Maybe not such a factor with the edge you are using but temps can have a big impact on max hangs scores so I prefer to compare against scores from ~12 month previous.

I'll have a go with the Taylor campus rung and see how I get on. The rungs they currently have available are 28mm but I assume that will still work for me as a 1 pad edge.

Shark, personally I notice no correlation whatsoever between my hang scores and temperature (PB's or lows any time of year), but my scores do fluctuate wildly from week to week, or even session to session, I assume due to freshness or recruitment. I'm always amazed to see how consistent weekly scores are from others in this thread.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2463
  • Karma: +283/-2
#22 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 11:15:50 am
Well done Sonia!

M - Dinas Cromlech (not a new crag) with Hobbit. Did Noah’s Warning and Pharoh’s Wall, pleasant and easier than I found them in 1978. I fretted about Foil most of the day, wondering whether to give it a try or not. Eventually I did and, despite a couple of tactical errors, battled up it as far as getting my left hand on top of the crag. Unfortunately it was the wrong part of the top of the crag and - like most of the UK - I’d run out of gas so off I came. With my all my weight through an outstretched left arm it felt a bit like Supersonic and I wonder if there was some subconscious damage limitation going on. Instinctively grabbed the rope and burnt my fingers.
T - Craig Ddu (new crag number 13). Blistered fingers well wrapped. Warmed-up on the pleasant Yellow Groove then led Yellow Wall (really good, definitive two and a half stars). Train back to London.
W - Walked 7km. Finger care.
T - Shoulders conditioning: side planks focusing on end range stability; end range elevation, in prone; handstands. Walked 10km.
F - Shoulders conditioning. Legs: squats, single-leg squats. Walked 13km.
S - Shoulders, legs. Drove to Pembroke.
S - St Govan’s East with The Writer. Heavy rain overnight so more adventurous venues were out. In between showers and the place condensing spectacularly around 4pm we managed four E1s and HVSs. Would have liked to have tried something harder like Serpent’s Tail but didn’t get it together in the 2 hours of OKish conditions.
M - bonus day! More heavy rain overnight and showery all day. Carag Y Barcud. Did the excellent Beyond the Azimuth (Foil for the E1 leader - physically harder than your average Pembs. E1 but sinker gear every 18”) and The Woodentops. Top-roped a damp Sinecure with two ropes on my back as The Hypocrite turned out to be wet. Kitten Claws also had wet streaks down it, somewhat to my relief. Great to be at the seaside despite non-ideal conditions.

Content to have tried Foil despite being irrationally anxious about it beforehand. Gave it a really good effort, happy I’ve still got this in me.  Slightly frustrated that a couple obvious tactical tweaks (warming-up on something harder than VS, downclimbing from the first hard bit) and stiffer shoes might have nudged me over the line. That’s the joy of onsighting. It would be ~6c to TR, and feels like 6c+ or ++ putting the gear in. A tough E3 for me. Hobbit is still up in Wales and gratifyingly reports Rhoscolyn E4s feel much easier! Or perhaps he’s just tickling my ego.

Plan: keep trying to onsight stuff whilst the temperatures are reasonable.

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1568
  • Karma: +89/-3
#23 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 03:27:20 pm
I'll have a go with the Taylor campus rung and see how I get on. The rungs they currently have available are 28mm but I assume that will still work for me as a 1 pad edge.

Shark, personally I notice no correlation whatsoever between my hang scores and temperature (PB's or lows any time of year), but my scores do fluctuate wildly from week to week, or even session to session, I assume due to freshness or recruitment. I'm always amazed to see how consistent weekly scores are from others in this thread.

I think they're 28mm on the top, incut, edge. The bottom is a pretty comfy flat edge and mine are 26mm but I guess they might vary.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2750
  • Karma: +153/-8
#24 Re: Kraft Klub 602 20-26 Sept 21
September 28, 2021, 04:22:59 pm
A tough E3 for me. Hobbit is still up in Wales and gratifyingly reports Rhoscolyn E4s feel much easier! Or perhaps heís just tickling my ego.

Can confirm that too. Warpath should be up on your radar (if it isn't ticked in your book already), more like one of the Leap E5s and utterly brilliant.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal