Liam, how dry is nearcliffe and lobwell? I'm keen to check out in the heart of darkness sit and red devil fairly soon and Lobwell a little later into the summer.
S - felt hungover most of the day, despite not drinking. Probably due to kid-induced tiredness.
Quote from: yetix on June 21, 2021, 10:23:57 amLiam, how dry is nearcliffe and lobwell? I'm keen to check out in the heart of darkness sit and red devil fairly soon and Lobwell a little later into the summer. Both were mostly dry for me but some of the holds were a bit soapy from condensation. Frequent brushing kept them manageable. The sit moves on HoD are bloody awful! polished, soapy, sooty holds. I couldn't seem to get off the ground and quit trying after only a couple of goes but it would be a brilliant line from sit to top!
for me the crux felt like the higher section of that just before getting into the actual easy climbing
There is a knee bar somewhere in that section, though I can't remember enough about it to remember where it is now.
Didn’t fancy pushing our way in so went and tried The Cement Garden 7c over the other side. Really enjoyed this up to the sharp hard crux and horrible traddy runout, so bailed!
I really enjoyed this when I did it, although I don't remember a runout; where was it? The crux was hard but once you did it and got below the overlap it was steady away to the chain if I remember rightly? Worth another look maybe as its a really good option when its cold on the other wall or really busy!
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 21, 2021, 05:02:35 pmThere is a knee bar somewhere in that section, though I can't remember enough about it to remember where it is now.Yes someone said this as we were leaving. Keen to get back soon and put it all together.
I believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on June 22, 2021, 01:53:02 pmI believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.TPM is hard than original as the start is hard and more pumpy. 7bish? Crux is quite reachy.
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on June 22, 2021, 04:12:17 pmQuote from: spidermonkey09 on June 22, 2021, 01:53:02 pmI believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.TPM is hard than original as the start is hard and more pumpy. 7bish? Crux is quite reachy.I thought the TPM to the rest(ish) below the crux section was 7b+ or even 7c. Did the crux via holds on the right (not sure if this is how you did it originally?), was a bit reachy I thought but excellent set of moves on nice holds, and I do like a reach. Really good route I thought with interesting and sustained climbing on pleasent holds for the grade and the odd rattley hold on the lower section didn't detract from the quality. Not really qualified to comment on grade but I was climbing well for me when I did it - thought it was signicantly harder than Defcon (whatever grade that is) which I did a few weeks later.
Quote from: IanP on June 22, 2021, 06:51:47 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on June 22, 2021, 04:12:17 pmQuote from: spidermonkey09 on June 22, 2021, 01:53:02 pmI believe Mirage is most commonly done these days basically from the start of Cement Garden, which is The Perfect Mirage. To do the original requires placing some wires I think? TPM looks good as well, never been on it but belayed a friend. Similar to Cement in that most of it is ok but the crux is hard.TPM is hard than original as the start is hard and more pumpy. 7bish? Crux is quite reachy.I thought the TPM to the rest(ish) below the crux section was 7b+ or even 7c. Did the crux via holds on the right (not sure if this is how you did it originally?), was a bit reachy I thought but excellent set of moves on nice holds, and I do like a reach. Really good route I thought with interesting and sustained climbing on pleasent holds for the grade and the odd rattley hold on the lower section didn't detract from the quality. Not really qualified to comment on grade but I was climbing well for me when I did it - thought it was signicantly harder than Defcon (whatever grade that is) which I did a few weeks later.I gave it 8a but most people who have been on it think its harder than original. Not sure it warranted 8a+ though. Glad you enjoyed.
I need to go back and finish TPM, but it didn't feel 8a+. Quality climbing and positions, an underrated gem fosho.
trad_grade_safe by pratt2005, on Flickr
Quote from: Andy F on June 22, 2021, 09:55:25 pmI need to go back and finish TPM, but it didn't feel 8a+. Quality climbing and positions, an underrated gem fosho.So 7b+ then Andy?Quote from: The Aaronator on April 12, 2011, 12:14:46 pmtrad_grade_safe by pratt2005, on Flickr