[Duncan Disorderly]

DMac never had Horseshit on his doorstep as a rehab venue tho, so his science is limited!

What are you saying??? Great training for Shale climbing! Choss is the new gritstone don't cha know!! 

Anyways wtf are you doing posting on here - I can't see your entry??? I'd expect:

M: Tournament wanking
T: Lead figure painting
W: Tournament wanking
T: Tournament wanking and Lead figure painting
F: Rest
S: Choss
S: Choss

 

[duncan]

Was It You?

Good to see this, described in different guidebooks as "inscrutable" and "an enigma", now getting regular attention. Whatever the mystery behind the first ascent the line looks magnificent.

I thought Bristol Unillustrated was a fantastic little route in a similarly exposed position, and it was always effectively a sport route. That was a long time ago and it's probably in a state of disrepair, but it would be well worth resurrecting.

Gets a star and "...would be a classic were it on the Upper Wall" in the latest guidebook. 7c is suggested. Nearby, Coup d'Etat also looks good but seems to be even harder (E6 for 7c+ climbing is a bit harsh?).

In other Avon news, Unknown Pleasures seems to be falling down 

[Bonjoy]

Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)

Very good and probably reasonable for the grade... if you're tall. For an average height climber it's probably a hard 8a or harder. Shorties need not apply.

[Duma]

In other Avon news, Unknown Pleasures seems to be falling down 

The blocks at the base now are pretty impressive! I walked up this slope last Sunday, must have only been a day or two before the rockfall, certainly gave pause for thought when I saw the blocks from the Was It You belay on Friday!

[User deactivated.]

Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)

Very good and probably reasonable for the grade... if you're tall. For an average height climber it's probably a hard 8a or harder. Shorties need not apply.

This looks excellent and lanking is a forte of mine but crimping isn't and I fear my fingers might be too puny for it. I'll certainly put it on the list to go and have a look at! Dragon Slayer looks like a good consolation if I can't pull off the deck at least.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest.

T - Max hangs. Decided to stick with the two arm hangs this month as they seem to be easier on my dodgy finger. After warming up managed hangs of 10, 6, 5, 5 5 sec duration at +40kg. This is an improvement on last week. Would be good to string a few 10 second hangs together. Stability hangs and pressups.

W - core and stretching. Felt like I needed it.

T - Anderson hangs. Got a bit confused with my weights and thought I was doing better than I was. Must have tricked my subconscious as it went well. Started with a base weight of +8.75kg on the 20mm edge and completed the set, having failed on +6.25kg last week.  Had a go on the bottom outside edge at the same weight and failed with a few reps to go. Easily a PB though. Not sure how to play it from now on as must be approaching max - might drop the weight and up the volume a bit in prep for routes.

F - rest.

S - Shining Cliff. A good circuit on the main edge and in the quarries. Did the 5's at Goosecreature which are great, Got Milk, Peaches and Crust and got totally shut down on Moo Cow (nails!) before moving to the quarries. Phaar Side Arete was very good, as was Far Side Story, which took ages to work out. Book of Tricks looked ace, but skin had had more than enough by that point. Nice day out.

S - tempted out to Slawston for a bit of traversing by the sun. A nice hour or so before skin started hurting.

Another reasonably solid week which staved off the boredom.

[36chambers]

Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)

Very good and probably reasonable for the grade... if you're tall. For an average height climber it's probably a hard 8a or harder. Shorties need not apply.

this was on my "post lockdown" list, so thanks for saving me a trip.

[steveri]

If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!

Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it

[SA Chris]

For most people, more a redpoint than an onsight, hence the sport grade! 

[seankenny]

If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!

Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it

I remember Al Powell telling me he hitched up from Leeds a few weeks after his finals, dossed in a park in Keswick, and ran the BG alone, carrying all his food, in 18 hours. Dossed in the park again and hitched home the next morning.

I wouldn't give that a sports grade...

[Will Hunt]

I know someone who did it in 1985 and the tale goes something along the lines of them having a few drinks the night before, deciding to do it, sleeping in the van, getting up early and nipping round. I think he did it again and found it a lot harder the second time around.

[duncan]

If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!

Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it

When I last looked very few over 60 year olds had done the BG and the oldest was 66. Isn’t this more like E6/7?

[Stabbsy]

Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it

Looking at this from a slightly different direction, getting to E3/4 is/was (relatively) easy within a few years of starting climbing. Doing the BG within a few years of starting running wouldn't be (unless you have some sort of background in some other endurance type sport) - E5 minimum and probably harder!

When I last looked very few over 60 year olds had done the BG and the oldest was 66. Isn’t this more like E6/7?

I think Ken Taylor was in his seventies when he did it.

[SA Chris]

E6 6b then. Sustained moderate ground with no hard cruxes.