[andy popp]

Was It You?

Good to see this, described in different guidebooks as "inscrutable" and "an enigma", now getting regular attention. Whatever the mystery behind the first ascent the line looks magnificent.

I thought Bristol Unillustrated was a fantastic little route in a similarly exposed position, and it was always effectively a sport route. That was a long time ago and it's probably in a state of disrepair, but it would be well worth resurrecting.

[RobK]

Happy Birthday! Like the themed session!

Thanks

Keep that up until you're 60 and I'll be impressed!

Yeah I'd be happy with that!

[Duma]

Cheers Andy, good tip!

[Bradders]

woodhouse: too eliminate

Got to stick up for The Scar here. If you can get past the litter (take a rubbish bag and gloves to clear it up!), it's a genuinely great venue with some really classic problems, and Ian's Roof is both excellent and hard, giving quite rare properly sustained climbing. Let down only slightly by the landing at the end.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCLiRTqj90P/?igshid=1bqrybohtxywh

[JohnM]

M - Trail run 9.5km 327m.

T - Trail run + hill sets x 2 15.7km 777m.

W - Shoulder stability + core (0.5 units), slopers and pockets (0.5 units), assisted one arms hangs (-8kg x 5), max. 2 arm hangs + 30kg (1 unit).

T - NG PE session 4 sets (1 unit). Trail run 9.64km 307m.

F - Travelling pull ups, sling assisted one arms pull ups (5 x 2 each arm), pulley assisted one armers (5 x 1 each arm -9kg) (1 unit), repeaters (0.5 units), weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100, 15kg x 100, 20kg x 80) (0.5 units). Trail run + hill sets x 3 16.83km 983m.

S - NG PE session 4 sets (1 unit).

S - Schleierwasserfall - I selfishly convinced my climbing partner to go to Schleier (even though it wouldn't be the best or warmest place to go overall) as I wanted to get back on my 8c project as early as possible in the year. The crag is also dangerous to approach, leave or change sectors at this time of year and huge 'bombs' of ice, rock, mud and ice javelins were falling off the top throughout the day. Climbers are no more immune to being hit by one of these than anyone else but at least we are aware of it. I couldn't believe the amount of families with kids hanging around in the fall zone and just gazing upwards with their phones out taking pictures. After more consistent training this winter I had high expectations for my first go back on the route. It went terribly! I struggled to do the moves, got the fear on the airy run outs on dusty holds and had a hard time fighting to get the crappy in situ draws out of the bolts and replace them with my own. The second go was much better and I felt way stronger on the moves than the year before and even pretty chilled on sequences I would have been fighting and scraping my way through 6 months ago. I also found some new beta on the long boulder at the top which made me realise how bad/hard my sequence was before and how easy it is to get stuck into using the same whack sequence! I didn't really put many big links together though and the rock was interacting with parts of fingers that haven't been touched all winter and ripping chunks of skin out. Two goes was enough for this reintroduction session. I finished by trying an 8a but got shut down by an extremely bicep intensive undercut match in the top boulder. Got home feeling broken all over!

A good week but I need to find some balance in my training volume and load. Fact 1 - If I want to climb 8c (again) with my baseline ability I have to train a lot and at intensities that walk the line of strength gains and injury. Fact 2 - I won't climb 8c again if I am injured! I ended up over training the week before trying to fit all my planned units in and even though I rested two days at the beginning of this week I still felt the effects throughout the week. I decided to train the day before getting on the 8c and combined with the training on the Friday I think this compromised the session. Therefore, I think I will rest the day before next time. I need to rejig this week's training as the rotator cuff on my right arm has become agitated so I will cut out most of the pull ups and one arm stuff and just do some mobility training and BW two arm stuff. W.r.t the running, thinking towards my plan to do the Bob Graham round in June and then the Eiger Ultra in July, I tried to ramp up the running and elevation this week. However, the tendon in my right knee did not like this so I also need to adjust my running training or at least actually do all the boring hamstring exercises I need to do to address the quad/hamstring imbalance that is upsetting my knee tendon. F'ing injuries!   

[spidermonkey09]

John, random question but how hard is a Bob Graham/ Eiger Ultra if we try and do an extremely rough and ready translation across to climbing grades? eg is a Bob Graham the running equivalent of 8b or something? To me it might as well be 9c as I think my legs would snap but interested how keen runners see it as a goal.

[RobK]

eg is a Bob Graham the running equivalent of 8b or something?

If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!

[JohnM]

John, random question but how hard is a Bob Graham/ Eiger Ultra if we try and do an extremely rough and ready translation across to climbing grades? eg is a Bob Graham the running equivalent of 8b or something?

Ha ha, good question! I don't really know to be honest. It also depends on the time it takes you. Lots of people could finish the Bob Graham in under 24 hours (so maybe just to finish is 8a or something) but if you were to finish in 12 hours 52 minutes like Kilian Jornet or 14 hours 34 minutes like Beth Pascall then that would equate to more like 9b/+ and 9a receptively maybe. I guess running is too different to compare. Based on effort, I haven't put in as much effort into running as climbing 8c so my best running efforts probably feel around the 8b mark. Also, injuries aside, I personally feel it is much easier to put the training into running and then go and execute a good personal time (within a certain range) than in climbing where you can train and still fail for multiple seasons to redpoint a certain route!   

[T_B]

Not done it but 40 miles p week / 3000m of vert training for months leading up has been quoted + the recceing (so maybe training 7 -10hrs training pw on similar terrain for a punter).

It’s not running either for most ppl, covering that terrain at that speed is closer to hill walking / mountaineering than running. You could be a sub 2:40 marathoner and not get anywhere near it. I know mountaineers who’ve done the BG off the couch.

A fast sub 17-hr time might be F8b?

Our club had a presentation from George Foster recently who ran the second fastest BG last October in 13:44 and he reckoned there were 10 or so Brits who could beat that. So maybe not quite 9b. He also said it’s basically a trail all the way so you can’t compare it with times from back in the early 80s.

Alpine ultras are totally different with most of them on well made, albeit often rocky, trails.

[SA Chris]

I know people who have done the BG 24 without being incredibly fit (one said he walked quite a bit of it), but knowing exactly what you need to do when, navigation and knowledge of the route, and the right partners and nutrition are apparently critical.

8a tops?

The idea appeals, but the Lakes is just too far way to get the familiarisation, and the well know local rounds (Tranter / Ramsay) are  a but too far away too and too conditions dependant (and too steep!). Was thinking about exploring a round of Glen Clova this year, seeings the Ultra I was planning on training for is postponed 'til October now.

[shark]

weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,

A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.

[JohnM]

weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,

A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.

Good point. I was liking these as they get me very pumped but there is no loading on the elbows or shoulders. I didn't think about sheath inflammation though. The loads I use don't feel very high compared to BW but maybe that doesn't matter as it is not static? I might keep one set in a week and see how I go.

[User deactivated.]

weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,

A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.

This is a shame as dynamic exercises are typically better for strength and hypertrophy gains than static exercises. E.g. gymnasts will incorporate lots of pressing exercises to build raw strength for the planche rather than just doing lots of specific straight arm work.

[User deactivated.]

woodhouse: too eliminate

Got to stick up for The Scar here. If you can get past the litter (take a rubbish bag and gloves to clear it up!), it's a genuinely great venue with some really classic problems, and Ian's Roof is both excellent and hard, giving quite rare properly sustained climbing. Let down only slightly by the landing at the end.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCLiRTqj90P/?igshid=1bqrybohtxywh

Are these problems quite weather resistant? It might not be the line I get ultra psyched for, but it's one of my closest venues at 30 mins drive, so a weather resistant hard eliminate might be good as an additional project! The actual climbing on it looks good.

Also how are they on skin? As a heavyweight climber, managing skin is the bane of my life.

[shark]

weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,

A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.

This is a shame as dynamic exercises are typically better for strength and hypertrophy gains than static exercises. E.g. gymnasts will incorporate lots of pressing exercises to build raw strength for the planche rather than just doing lots of specific straight arm work.

Also on a lot of hard moves you catch a hold open handed and close it into a crimp to move off

[Duncan Disorderly]

Think this is the most consistinetly on-time I've ever been for anything in my life... If that's all I ever get out of Power Club then it's enough for me  ;DA

M: Blackberry wall - Worked fingers
T: Shoulder stability stuff
W: Went to blackberry wall but far too cold - managed about 20 minutes! Home for a board session - 2hrs of mainly PE (15ish moves) Trashed!
T: Shoulder stability stuff
F: Fingerboard warmup session... 25mins bounces, repeaters and finally hangs to failure on 19mm edge. Fingers feeling fine! Board session - more power focussed session - up to 7 moves trying to use just jibs for feet and avoiding kickboard... Tried really hard!
S: Walk with fam, took ropes and some gear and set up a little ab so I could teach the kids and GF some valuable life skills - they loved it  Pottered on the boulders till everyone got too cold and went for a chippy tea... Ace!
S: Horseshit with GF - Had to take me youngest with us as managed to balls up childcare arrangements with the ex... Cold and not really feeling it, did a few easy routes and sacked it off... Shoulder stuff and elbow eccentrics (see below).

Not a bad week - feeling slightly tweaky in the elbows (golfers side)... Attributing it to the board sessions (even though according to Dave Mac's book he seems to indicate that traing power on a 45ish board shouldn't do this (???) - could be all the crimping and locking off on blackberry wall I suppose)... Decided to start a program of golfers rehab/prevention eccentrics along with my shoulder stuff. Feel like I've been neglecting the rehab stuff a bit really - still do it on off days but it's a bit half arsed and the shoulder, while usable, is still sore most days... Think I tend to climb cold a bit too much too so will try and be more focussed on doing a warmup at home and if that proves too tricky (it's sometimes hard enough just getting out the house before dark!) at least doing some general warming and theraband work before starting climbing...

[Fiend]

feeling slightly tweaky in the elbows (golfers side)... Attributing it to the board sessions (even though according to Dave Mac's book he seems to indicate that traing power on a 45ish board shouldn't do this (???)

  meanwhile back in reality.....

[shark]

Think this is the most consistinetly on-time I've ever been for anything in my life... If that's all I ever get out of Power Club then it's enough for me  ;DA

Keep this virtuous trend going by tackling the UKB IT snagging list 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Think this is the most consistinetly on-time I've ever been for anything in my life... If that's all I ever get out of Power Club then it's enough for me  ;DA

Keep this virtuous trend going by tackling the UKB IT snagging list 

Duly noted... 

[Bradders]

woodhouse: too eliminate

Got to stick up for The Scar here. If you can get past the litter (take a rubbish bag and gloves to clear it up!), it's a genuinely great venue with some really classic problems, and Ian's Roof is both excellent and hard, giving quite rare properly sustained climbing. Let down only slightly by the landing at the end.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCLiRTqj90P/?igshid=1bqrybohtxywh

Are these problems quite weather resistant? It might not be the line I get ultra psyched for, but it's one of my closest venues at 30 mins drive, so a weather resistant hard eliminate might be good as an additional project! The actual climbing on it looks good.

Also how are they on skin? As a heavyweight climber, managing skin is the bane of my life.

Crag faces south, is nice and high up above a valley (decent views), and this time of year dries at Almscliff speed with a bit of a breeze. Some bits stay dry in the rain. Rock is generally pretty clean. Standard grit skin required really, can't think of any grit that's easy on the skin!

Neither Ian's Roof nor Houdini are eliminate at all. Or at least, you need to avoid the shelf on your left at the end, but really that's no different to eliminating the ground...

[Duncan Disorderly]

feeling slightly tweaky in the elbows (golfers side)... Attributing it to the board sessions (even though according to Dave Mac's book he seems to indicate that traing power on a 45ish board shouldn't do this (???)

  meanwhile back in reality.....

That's what I though but he does allude to the mid range of flexation involved with this type of climbing being less aggrovating than say deep locking when clipping bolts on easy routes... Seems pretty anecdotal but when trying to work out what's causing a problem I'd rather not discount summat as it's not the obvious cause (i.e. crimpy off vertical traversing vs steep bouldering)....

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - board, circuit, links up to 12 moves. Tired. PE low 30/30 x5. Weights. Need to give fingers some rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - tired. Lattice, a few hangs from -4 to BW. Need  to give fingers some rest. No really. Snatch DL up to 110. DL up to 130. Hitting these numbers also when tired is very satisfiying. Need to give my glutes and lower back some rest. Bar work. Abs.
Thu - PE low 30/30 ×12, La Rambla here I come. 6 boxing rounds. Hill sprints. Nice.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights and carries.
Sun - farmer's static holds (110 kg) and overhead carry (40 kg) 30/30 alternated x24.
Spent the weekend moving lots of logs in a wood. Brilliant stuff.

[Fiend]

DMac never had Horseshit on his doorstep as a rehab venue tho, so his science is limited!

[Duncan Disorderly]

DMac never had Horseshit on his doorstep as a rehab venue tho, so his science is limited!

What are you saying??? Great training for Shale climbing! Choss is the new gritstone don't cha know!! 

[sxrxg]

Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)