[csl]

It's one of these cantilever doorframe ones - on the back it hooks over the top of the frame and presses against the wall

You are very brave.

I appreciate the concern, but I'm comfortable with my own risk assessment of this. If the system fails when I'm hanging then I land on my feet or knees and maybe get a bump on my head from the fingerboard. I can't/don't do anything (front levers etc) which could result in me falling onto my back or head in the event of failure. So there's both small risk, and small consequence 

[Duncan Disorderly]

M: Back on the fingerboard - been a while... Warmup (30 mins), test max hangs - 19mm campus rung (Metolious wood grips??) only had 8kg hanging around, managed 20+s.. bit too light. Need to get some more weights...BM Repeater session 1 set -  4 finger hc, 4 finger drag, 3 finger hc, mid 2 deep pockets... Good start, felt good.
T: Easy bouldering and soloing @ Burbage with daughter...
W: SNOW DAY!! Snowboarding down meersbrook park - ace!
T: SNOW DAY!! Great to be on the board but getting tired of the walk up the hill!
F: Watched Dave Mac's vid on fingerboarding - Warmup (30 mins) Tried max hangs with fewer fingers on each hand - HC one hand - mid 2 other.. 10s LH, 8s RH - Intensity seemed right but think I failed to rest enough as I'm usually stronger on RH - Think I'll get some more weights as seems more measurable. BM Repeater sesh same as Monday but did 2 sets. Trashed!
S: Rest
S: Blackberry wall traversing... Was cold and damp but just planned to do a bit of movement training... All went awry when I felt a tweak in my LH index finger... Felt fine to pull on so carried on for a while longer ensuring that I maintained good form and didn't shock load as couldn't be sure it wasn't just the cold... Should have stopped sooner as finger felt much more tender than expected when I got home - absolutely gutted!!

Arse, arse, arse!! Finger's definitely tweaked! Not sure exactly what.. Stiff this morning... Thinking A2 as pain is in lower part of finger but not localised and doesn't seem to be significantly painful to hold a crimp position (unloaded)... Ice, Ibuprofen and rest for a few days to see what gives then will make a plan... Read finger section of Dave Mac's book... Grrrrrr 

[Bradders]

If it helps*, the combo of injury (can't train properly), a weird flare-up of other swelling (has happened before and been undiagnosed, GP thought rheumatoid arthritis but rheumatology weren't sure.. means I can't even rehab the injury properly), and a lack of alternative releases (partying not allowed, good-for-the-soul soloing seems irresponsible etc.) has me at my least psyched since starting climbing ~15yrs ago. Think I'm up to around half a dozen days in 2021 where I've said something along the lines of "I'd quit climbing if I could think of something else to do with my life".  Which isn't great given we're only 18 days into the new year

*obviously it may not help, but sometimes knowing others are in a similar boat is of some solace!

I'm sure its not an uncommon feeling! January is so fucking grim anyway its probably mostly that, but as you say at least in a normal January the pub would be open! I've also had a recurrence of an old tweak recently, I think the cold and my poor circulation is to blame.

I just bought myself an ab wheel so now I have a new toy in the evenings at least.

There's a lot of this going round, just seeing bad news constantly has an effect and you have to remember we're living through (hopefully) a once in a lifetime shit storm. Point being, give yourself a break and just do what you can 

[Yossarian]

Unlike almost everyone else on this thread, I am fully suffused with syke. This may be because I live on the climbing equivalent of the far side of the moon and, without all the distractions of other people going climbing when I can't, I've been able to fully channel all my new year good intentions. Anyway...

M: 8km run / assisted one arms / weighted wide grips / hammer curls, various rings and squats / front lever progression / prone shoulder circuit / 10sec 1/2 crimp repeaters
T: Some stretching, prolonged DIY session including lengthy tumbler dryer dismantle to replace broken drive belt YYFY
W: 8km run / max hangs / aero repeaters / yoga / stretching
T: Core / stretching / yoga
F: 8km run / assisted 1 arm / curls and row / z-press / front lever prog / various rings / prone shoulder circuit
S: Long beach walk, plus various core / stretching
S: 3.5hr walk

Down 5kg since start of Jan. Would be cool to manage 10 by the end of the month.

[T_B]

Unlike almost everyone else on this thread, I am fully suffused with syke.

Says the man who also goes running .

[Duma]

M - 8k run, flat, pavement. So much easier than my normal loop (hilly, off road). 40 min which I'm happy with, especially it was a new route so there was a fair bit of stopping to check the map.
...
W - 5k run, flat, pavement. Shorter version of Monday's run. 25 min, OK but didnt push too hard as could still feel monday in the legs.
...

Just checked and Mondays run was actually 10k, and Wednesdays was 7k. Much happier with times!

[shark]

Down 5kg since start of Jan. Would be cool to manage 10 by the end of the month.

Super impressive. No wonder you're psyched. Have you lost weight at that rate before? It doesn’t sound sustainable.

[Yossarian]

I’ve done it in 2 previous Januaries. Both (as this year) starting from over 100kg. 2017 was 110kg max to 95 by end of March IIRC. Personally, I think when you’re both quite tall and heavy that you can get away with losing more per week than for example someone who’s fairly slim and 60something kg. I wanted to kickstart things, but will probably slow it down a bit before too long.

[shark]

Cool. Was worried it would lead to burnout but as you’ve been there before ignore me.

[Coops_13]

M: 100 press-ups in 10 different variations. Shoulder press, lateral raise

T: Clear Creek Canyon. Went to Seeing Squiggles boulder to check out Recession Proof. FA graded it V10 but has settled at hard V9. Interesting to start trying boulders above my limit again - I'm not very good at it… Did all moves but the two crux moves (first two moves). Got close on both but need to return with better finger strength. Moved onto Wave Wall, crossing some very sketchy ice (frozen river making alarming noises as we crossed). Managed to fire off a high-ish ball V6 called The Wright. Really cool, video does not do it justice in the slightest. Felt fairly safe apart from the snowy top holds


W: Legs. Leg press, calf raise, hamstring curl, knee extensions X15 *2sets. Leg exercises.

T: Drive to Moab

F: Indian Creek. Straight to Airwolf V6-ish. What an amazing piece of rock, warmed up and slowly made it higher and higher, with each fall bigger than the last. So psyched to get up it, apologies to your eardrums if you watch the vid with sound… Definitely one of (if not) the best boulder I have ever climbed! Grade-wise it felt pretty stiff - a taste of things to come. Took a while to find other boulders in the Creek, most were a bit chossy. Tried Split Boulder, an amazing high technical barn-doory V6 arete - not my style. Was psyched and got so so close but ended up walking away. Lots more exploring but couldn't find anything else we were looking for

S: Started off at Zen Garden Cave home to the Dean Potter huge roof-crack, Zen Garden V10. That thing is so long so we tried the V6 (another sandbag) to the right, China Buffet. Pretty high, with the crux at the top. Really really good. Moved on to Big Bend and got on Circus Trick V5 (used to be called V4, still nails at V5). Amazing moves the whole way up and topless bouldering in January! Finished the day on Block Party V5 which was cool, ripped off the flash with a #Nathaniel to get it second go

S: Unaweep Canyon. Stopped off at Unaweep (near Grand Junction) on the way home, chasing rumours of softer grades. These turned out to be true and the downgrading mission commenced. Flashed Ninja Estrogen Tricks (V6 -> V5), sent Chinese Algebra (V6 -> V5) which was very good. Moved onto Goodbye Blue Monday (topical name) and managed to flash that (V7 -> V6) before finishing off at Plethora boulder where there are some amazing looking (and appropriately graded) harder boulders. Very spent so finished the trip with Mask of Zorro V5. Very psyched to have managed three days on after years of injuries and very keen to come back to Unaweep (c.1000 boulders)

[Nibile]

I can't/don't do anything (front levers etc) which could result in me falling onto my back or head in the event of failure.

Good to know! That was what I was thinking about.

[User deactivated.]

Airwolf V6! What an unbelievably good line!